robo3687's Iron Man Pep Files - SD War Machine links page 73

Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

Also, here is a post of mine from page 46, regarding scaling:

This is to everyone who is asking questions about scaling:

Each piece needs to be scaled separately!

Everyone is proportioned differently so to take the default proportions and just scale them across the board will result in something your height or your width but in the same shape as the original. You MUST size each piece to match the part of your body it's designed to fit over. Scaling each piece to the same number will NOT work for most people.

There is no magic way to figure out a scale
Just measure the body part you need to scale to, look at the dimensions of the piece in the program and adjust the scale until you have a good balance between the length, width, and depth in terms of matching your proportions.

It's more work, but if you don't do this your final product won't fit right.

Even if you scale to the same dimensions that someone else your same heigh and weight did you will STILL have issues because, like I said, everyone is proportioned differently. Their arms might be longer than yours, their legs shorter, have more muscle, have a wider chest, and a bigger butt, but weigh exactly what you weigh and be the same height.

Just take some time to figure out your scale for yourself and you will be just fine. And if you need to repep a piece because it doesn't fit, at least you know how it goes together now, meaning your second go will be faster and cleaner.

-Nick

Follow that advice and you'll be fine.

-Nick
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

So, for the helmet...at 1.0 it's 262cm h x 188cm w x 303cm d ...Is it safe to assume the box defined by those measurements are the OUTER most measurements of the helmet, not the open space inside?
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

So, for the helmet...at 1.0 it's 262cm h x 188cm w x 303cm d ...Is it safe to assume the box defined by those measurements are the OUTER most measurements of the helmet, not the open space inside?

Well the only difference between inside and outside dimensions should be the thickness of two pieces of paper...so we're talking less than half a millimeter of difference, but yes, the measurements are for the bounding box of the model.

-Nick
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

cheers guys :) appreciate the kind words. i hope my pictures have inspired the more silent lurkers :p
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

(edit) It just occurred to me to note that the screen shots below are NOT from Pepakura, but from the 3D software I use. Don't go nuts trying to find the option to change the display mode to what you see. :)

For those not familiar with the concept of a "bounding box" in 3D parlance, here's a visual for you:

bounding_box.jpg


The blue outlines represent the absolute outer dimensions of the object - the longest flat measurement on any given axis. When Pepakura gives you a height/width/depth measurement, it's measuring a straight line from one side of the box to the other.

Something else to keep in mind when you're scaling parts - the objects are not necessarily perfectly aligned in the 3D space:

measurements.jpg


The measurements shown are the default dimensions from Neon Sentry's unfold of robo's complete arm model.

As you can see, the Pepakura dimensions do not equate to what the arm would actually measure out to if it were fully extended. The bend in the arm skews what you'd think of as the ideal measurement, as if the entire arm was completely vertical.

None of this will actually help you determine your perfect scaling numbers, but hopefully it'll give you a little more insight as to how the models behave in their 3D environment. Someone who's been working steadily with this stuff for the last few years could probably explain it a lot better than I just did. :D
 
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Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

well it really depends on your body proportionality. i had several pep mistakes with scaling issues. I'm 5'5 and the whole suit unscaled is really big for me

1918-a.jpg


then i tried rescaling each part by 10%. And it worked for me. don't know for the limbs though.

59415_157284517615883_100000030081087_500089_3017163_n.jpg

well on my case im only 5'4" and i reduce the printing by 17%....

so i will get a smaller print size...but i didn't change the original scale....

58674_154151581277921_100000492392027_437370_4687731_n.jpg


47716_154151261277953_100000492392027_437363_3730277_n.jpg


it is perfectly fitted my size :lol
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

school started - so building for me is practically brought to a halt between studies work and extra-curriculars... but I'm really amazed at everyone else's work - hope to catch a break sometime soon and maybe crank out a part or two
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

(edit) It just occurred to me to note that the screen shots below are NOT from Pepakura, but from the 3D software I use. Don't go nuts trying to find the option to change the display mode to what you see. :)

For those not familiar with the concept of a "bounding box" in 3D parlance, here's a visual for you:

bounding_box.jpg


The blue outlines represent the absolute outer dimensions of the object - the longest flat measurement on any given axis. When Pepakura gives you a height/width/depth measurement, it's measuring a straight line from one side of the box to the other.

Something else to keep in mind when you're scaling parts - the objects are not necessarily perfectly aligned in the 3D space:

measurements.jpg


The measurements shown are the default dimensions from Neon Sentry's unfold of robo's complete arm model.

As you can see, the Pepakura dimensions do not equate to what the arm would actually measure out to if it were fully extended. The bend in the arm skews what you'd think of as the ideal measurement, as if the entire arm was completely vertical.

None of this will actually help you determine your perfect scaling numbers, but hopefully it'll give you a little more insight as to how the models behave in their 3D environment. Someone who's been working steadily with this stuff for the last few years could probably explain it a lot better than I just did. :D

dude is that MS3D? if so thats the software i have ^_^

it would be nice if some one could hack pep to allow a free rescale of specific dimensions.
 
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Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

did you use card stock? and i can't tell... but did you resin that already? It just looks really warped...
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

it looks like you're using regular paper instead of cardstock. either that or it was left out in the rain. :p switch to cardstock man, its much better.
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

regular paper cant support the weight of the folds once u slap it together - tried it with a helm once and it started to cave almost instantly
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

Has anyone on here working with Smooth cast? If so would your recommend it on the inside in place of fiberglass or on the outside instead of resin?
Seen a few videos of someone using it on top and seemed really messy do to the harding of every brush he used so he began pouring on the outside.
Anyways.... Any assistance is appreaciated! :)
Thanks!!!!
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

Hi guys! I was looking around the forum and I found Finhead's now-dead IM project. I read something about him putting a servo in the chin area, but he must have removed the pics and video from Flickr. Does anyone happen to know more about that setup?
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

Has anyone on here working with Smooth cast? If so would your recommend it on the inside in place of fiberglass or on the outside instead of resin?
Seen a few videos of someone using it on top and seemed really messy do to the harding of every brush he used so he began pouring on the outside.
Anyways.... Any assistance is appreaciated! :)
Thanks!!!!

use Smooth-On EpoxAmite instead.
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

use Smooth-On EpoxAmite instead.


Cool. Appreciate it!
VersionUp would you suggest sticking with resining the outside and interior with Smooth-On? Or is it pretty manageable to work on exterior materials?

Thanks for the advice!
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

Cool. Appreciate it!
VersionUp would you suggest sticking with resining the outside and interior with Smooth-On? Or is it pretty manageable to work on exterior materials?

Thanks for the advice!

Im kinda confused with the question, but EpoxAmite have a good tensile strength so you can use it by itself. So with the polyester body filler, you should have a solid armor.

I went away from using EpoxAmite to using a combo of Vinyl Esther resin/ surface veil just because of cost.
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

i should get a Kevlar kit and cover up my armor in that lol
LIGHTWEIGHT AND BULLET PROOF!!! FTW!!!
 
Re: robo3687's Pep Files - first post updated - please read

..well, bullet resistant.. to a point.

and heavy. Dyneema is a better material than kevlar as far as ballistic resistance goes.. Probably more expensive though. haha
 
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