theamazingryan
New Member
OK so im new to the site so forgive me if there is a more appropriate place to post this but here goes. I am an artist and professional mechanic. I am also a huge BTTF fan. I am expert with; plastic casting, sewing, fabricating, sculpting, and replicating. I am working on a few bttf prop projects that will by far surpass any other replicated bttf prop available! First off Here are my 2 projects;
NUMERO UNO: Martys Future Jacket.
Now im sure ppl are tired of seeing and hearing about this replication. By now most people know that the red is silicone rubber cast off of a uv light diffuser lens found in drop ceilings. Also the arm chair plastic parts as the cuffs etc. Now thats all childs play if your like me and can cast and mold anything. But here is the kicker while a select few replica jackets have sound effects and led lights, none have been self drying or self sizing. Untill now (or soon anyways) I plan to use 2 small power antenna motors under each armpit for the sleeves. These motors use a long plastic flexable rod that extends up and down. (by the way, im a mechanic and auto rebuilder by trade) i plan to glue in some small flexable plastic tubing to guide the plastic rod. I also plan on using 2 compact car vacuum cleaner or maybe 2 pumps for a yoga ball for the blowing action (wont be as powerfull as in the film) but it will "puff" out the jacket and make a whirring noise. They will be placed one on each side (under the power wantenna motor) Ill use a non-breathable material for the lining and have the pump send air to the cavity between lining and outer skin (to puff). Ill have well placed pin holes around the collar to expel the trapped air and blow your hair for effect. I plan to power the whole thing using a rechargeable laptop battery, (aaaahh very clever of me) These are flat, long lasting compact and powerfull. ill hide it in the jacket lining on the back of the jacket and have a port to charge it. going to start on this soon. I have to make a master plug for the sleeves finished with a textured paint and sealed. Ill have to paint on the silicone rubber and when it dries, turn it inside out and it will have the mimicked texture of the mold plug. (there are a few kinks with that ive yet to work out by the way, the bendy part wont cooperate after its insideout) and...
Number II
Ok so the flux capacitor is by far the most iconic prop from the trilogy. I see dozens of replicas none are close to screen accurate. Most have incorrect vacuum solenoids, all have inaccurate cannon connector (one site claims they have replicated the correct one, but they didn't) also the thickness of rubber window molding and most of all THE SPARK PLUG WIRES! most people use a standard accel plug wire (to long and does not have a ring tapered onto the end) Just fyi, (and this is where my mechanic profession comes in handy) there is a correct set of plug wires that are SCREEN ACCURATE! its made by accel they are for a 1980s mazda RX7 they are the 300 series part number 7931Y (AAHH I did it again, blew your mind) So for the tube solenoids im going to get my hands on a Eimac VS-4 Vacuum solenoid. The glass part is the EXACT SAME as the sreen used TORR relays (now extinct) I will mold and cast out of clear resin and ill insert metal rods, a chrome bead, and a clear pieces of tubing (to emulate the hollow look of the tube) into the mold prior to adding clear resin. This way i can freeze the metal rod in place and not have to drill or piece together and shape pieces of tubing. They are going to match 99.9% .however the base is different on the VS-4, will reproduce the TORR base and cast in plastic. I already have the image file of the labels. as far as the rest goes you've heard it all before as far as the stahlin box etc. Now the cannon connector on the side i see most lazy bums use PVC tubing Really? cmon now. The actual part is an aircraft elbow i beleive was used for hydraulic lines. The guy who claims to make the best Flux Caps uses an elbow cast from an original part similar to the one used in the movie but its still not accurate. The back of his elbow (where it goes into the bulkhead) reduces size by a half inch, the movie accurate elbow has equal dimensions for both ends of the elbow. (this is all based off photo reference) I plan to re-create this part from scratch using a pvc elbow (only as a base) and clay. There are 2 adjacent treaded edges around the ring (like the sides of a quarter) where the elbow goes into the box itself For this ill use a large tin can lid (like on a square tin of paint thinner) which has the same treaded sides. Ill mold it, cast 2 copys and stack and glue them together to recreate this. Im giving away my secrets i guess but all well. I also plan to use old school small incandescent light bulbs (like the movie) so it has a duller yellowish illumination (like the movie) so any thoughts, ideas, sugestions, or questions?
NUMERO UNO: Martys Future Jacket.
Now im sure ppl are tired of seeing and hearing about this replication. By now most people know that the red is silicone rubber cast off of a uv light diffuser lens found in drop ceilings. Also the arm chair plastic parts as the cuffs etc. Now thats all childs play if your like me and can cast and mold anything. But here is the kicker while a select few replica jackets have sound effects and led lights, none have been self drying or self sizing. Untill now (or soon anyways) I plan to use 2 small power antenna motors under each armpit for the sleeves. These motors use a long plastic flexable rod that extends up and down. (by the way, im a mechanic and auto rebuilder by trade) i plan to glue in some small flexable plastic tubing to guide the plastic rod. I also plan on using 2 compact car vacuum cleaner or maybe 2 pumps for a yoga ball for the blowing action (wont be as powerfull as in the film) but it will "puff" out the jacket and make a whirring noise. They will be placed one on each side (under the power wantenna motor) Ill use a non-breathable material for the lining and have the pump send air to the cavity between lining and outer skin (to puff). Ill have well placed pin holes around the collar to expel the trapped air and blow your hair for effect. I plan to power the whole thing using a rechargeable laptop battery, (aaaahh very clever of me) These are flat, long lasting compact and powerfull. ill hide it in the jacket lining on the back of the jacket and have a port to charge it. going to start on this soon. I have to make a master plug for the sleeves finished with a textured paint and sealed. Ill have to paint on the silicone rubber and when it dries, turn it inside out and it will have the mimicked texture of the mold plug. (there are a few kinks with that ive yet to work out by the way, the bendy part wont cooperate after its insideout) and...
Number II
Ok so the flux capacitor is by far the most iconic prop from the trilogy. I see dozens of replicas none are close to screen accurate. Most have incorrect vacuum solenoids, all have inaccurate cannon connector (one site claims they have replicated the correct one, but they didn't) also the thickness of rubber window molding and most of all THE SPARK PLUG WIRES! most people use a standard accel plug wire (to long and does not have a ring tapered onto the end) Just fyi, (and this is where my mechanic profession comes in handy) there is a correct set of plug wires that are SCREEN ACCURATE! its made by accel they are for a 1980s mazda RX7 they are the 300 series part number 7931Y (AAHH I did it again, blew your mind) So for the tube solenoids im going to get my hands on a Eimac VS-4 Vacuum solenoid. The glass part is the EXACT SAME as the sreen used TORR relays (now extinct) I will mold and cast out of clear resin and ill insert metal rods, a chrome bead, and a clear pieces of tubing (to emulate the hollow look of the tube) into the mold prior to adding clear resin. This way i can freeze the metal rod in place and not have to drill or piece together and shape pieces of tubing. They are going to match 99.9% .however the base is different on the VS-4, will reproduce the TORR base and cast in plastic. I already have the image file of the labels. as far as the rest goes you've heard it all before as far as the stahlin box etc. Now the cannon connector on the side i see most lazy bums use PVC tubing Really? cmon now. The actual part is an aircraft elbow i beleive was used for hydraulic lines. The guy who claims to make the best Flux Caps uses an elbow cast from an original part similar to the one used in the movie but its still not accurate. The back of his elbow (where it goes into the bulkhead) reduces size by a half inch, the movie accurate elbow has equal dimensions for both ends of the elbow. (this is all based off photo reference) I plan to re-create this part from scratch using a pvc elbow (only as a base) and clay. There are 2 adjacent treaded edges around the ring (like the sides of a quarter) where the elbow goes into the box itself For this ill use a large tin can lid (like on a square tin of paint thinner) which has the same treaded sides. Ill mold it, cast 2 copys and stack and glue them together to recreate this. Im giving away my secrets i guess but all well. I also plan to use old school small incandescent light bulbs (like the movie) so it has a duller yellowish illumination (like the movie) so any thoughts, ideas, sugestions, or questions?
