batman 89 cape pattern

toxicvenom

Active Member
Hi all
Has anyone got a correct pattern drawing for the section spacing, I thought all sections were equal
looking at PJWs RD cape, but looking a one on the Prop store it looks like the two at the back are half the
size angles of the ones either side.....confused.. trying to get it to match up with the points on the cowl..
 
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Could you link/post a photo of the cape you're referencing off the prop store?

From all the photos of Tim Burton's Batman, the cape looks equally distributed.
 
The movie stills make it appear that each panel has a soft rounded hem; not straight but not exaggerated either.

batman1.jpg

Batman-1989-batman-2686932-1024-576.jpg
 
One thing , the length, I know a one size cape is not going to be the same on everyone,
but I have seem some shots showing the cape at calf length,and some dragging the floor,
I want to make one to fit me, so what do you think calf or floor?
 
One thing , the length, I know a one size cape is not going to be the same on everyone,
but I have seem some shots showing the cape at calf length,and some dragging the floor,
I want to make one to fit me, so what do you think calf or floor?
Wow this is late on my part. Personally I think somewhere in between is best simply because you want to be able to move without tripping. I found this promo pic for the original movie (lot good it'll do you now)
http://wagthemovie.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/batman2.jpeg
 
If you mean late as in I have prob done it ....no not yet, still waiting to pick up some plywood to mount the textured faux leather
as I need a bit trying to source some used board as buying the amount I need new would be a waste. need at least 4 sheets
of 8x4 5mm its about 40 pounds about 60 bucks a sheet......
 
You're mounting it to plywood? What for?

I just recently had to draft a pattern for the 1989 cape for a local. Here's what I've come up with. If anyone else reads this and finds a glaring mistake I've missed, or details about the original I’m not aware of please point it out!

Per Propstore's high detail description and photos we know the longest finished length is 51". If you're drafting from a circle, setting 51" as the radius would be a mistake -- you'd want to include a few extra (in this case I'm guessing maybe 2"?) because part of the middle of the circle was cut out for the neck.
Notice how the panel doesn’t meet a point here because the fabric is cut out for the neck:
987a0c6cc2e885e778295c954a2a4e7f.jpg

Michael Keaton is 5'10" and my model is 5'11" so I added an extra inch to the length to be proportionate. I'm going with 54" as a radius (let’s hope my guestimate is right!).

Radius x 2 = 108” diameter. Circumference is diameter times pi, so 108x3.14 = 339.12”. Now, if you count the panels in the image below there are 8. BUT, I didn't want the cape to completely cover the costume so I’m calculating for 9 panels. One of those 9 panels will be left out so that there is a gap for the costume beneath to show. So circumference divided by 9 will give us a width of 37.68”. I’m calculating in 5/8” seam allowance on either side, so each panel will be 38.93” wide and 54” long. Well, except for the front panels. Those will get extra fabric so I can make a sleeve for dowel rods – totally optional. I’m choosing to skip the lining on the front panels also.
Note: if I cut out the slight curve at the bottom before sewing the panels together I have to remember to leave that 5/8” shelf on either side or it’ll never come to a point at the bottom. Because of this I’m thinking I’ll just wait until each panel is sewn together before cutting the curve.

A thing I noticed was that each panel is not the same width at the opening of the neck. Since the bottom panels appear to be the same width I think either the angles were wider on some parts, or the opening for the neck was cut off center once the cape was draped over (after all, the chest and shoulders don’t make a perfect circle, they make a more ovaline shape). Since I’m on a time crunch I’m going to just make each panel with the same angle and revisit it if the weight of the fabric seems to be pulling it in an awkward way.

126b3c020c3681fdf570b0e3abea6172.jpg


So right now it’s looking like I’ll be making a triangle on folded fabric that’s 54” long (that’s 1 ½ yds), measure out half my width (19.465”) from the fold, and then just drawing a line from the end of the width to the end of the length. I’ll need 12 yds of fabric (1 ½ yds per panel, 8 panels).
I *think* it should come out looking something like this:

136adb653e32503ce29c8fd181e2e54c.jpg

Looking at this image I think it’s likely that the hems of each panel were pressed open and sewn down. Also, if you’re working with leather or faux leather you shouldn't need to do any hemming as those types of fabrics don’t fray.

29649eb843eaeac7a102be202af42f65.jpg
 

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The plywood is for creating a mould as was done by JesterFX, I plan to make it oversize
then being able to trim the bottom to fit different lengths
its for latex.. with cloth around the neck area, once the latex is pulled from the mould
I intend to finish the texture by hand to create a more screen accurate look.
depending on the final weight and flow may use cloth lining or not depends on
if it practical to wear..


I intend using a screen used cowl to get the correct spacing at the neck so as the cape
drops it gets wider creating the folds as it hangs..
 
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where you say the point does not line up...if you notice the out of line point is the velcro fixing pad and not the cowl point
the cowl does line up....the velcro is farther up under the cowl....
 
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