Crystal Clear Resin Helmets?

[GridGhost]

Hey guys,

I was wondering how many of you had a go at a crystal clear resin helmet?

I am currently working on a Rinzler helmet and was a bit intimidated by the idea of having to build a vacuum form (based off Art Funks techniques). After hours and hours of research I came up with the idea of casting the entire helmet out of crystal clear resin and then tinting the whole thing. I wasn't sure how visible it would be but I figured it was worth a shot.

Then recently I read a post on here by Crimson490 and saw that he too did the same thing, and had some suggestions on increasing visibility. Since then I've seen a few people discussing this method and was just interested in who had tried it and how well it had worked.

 

[hydin]

Seems like it'd be pretty cool, but hard to get all the micro bubbles out of there without one hell of a pressure pot.

That being said, the idea of an "Active Camo" Master Chief helmet is one that fills me with glee.

Chris

 

[GridGhost]

Seems like it'd be pretty cool, but hard to get all the micro bubbles out of there without one hell of a pressure pot.

That's my main concern too, but the idea of skipping the vacuum form process AND being able to have a wide range of visibility is just TOO tempting. I wore my Wheatley head from Portal 2 to SDCC 2011 and even though I saw out of the eye just fine the peripheral blindness was a drag. Made navigating the exhibit hall a nightmare, but I refused to take it off because so many people wanted pictures.

 

[Rinzler]

Cast the helmet and only vac form the visor would be my suggestion.

 

[cavx]

I am currently working on a Rinzler helmet and was a bit intimidated by the idea of having to build a vacuum form (based off Art Funks techniques).

These are not hard to build and I think a clear plastic helmet made from a Vac Form will be much more durable than a resin cast. It will certainly be bubble free. I'd also be really concerned about the resin helmet smashing if it was ever dropped.

I am in the process of building myself a Vac Form rig, based on the You Tube video by James of XRobots where he is making parts for a C-3PO.

I still need to get foam or rubber for the seal and want to get a proper vacuum fitting for the base rather than just drilling a hole. I also need some [8?] bolts, washers and wing nuts for the frame that will hold the plastic. My form will allow for jobs of 500mm x 500mm.

I will also be building the same heating unit, though I might source galvanized sheet metal for the liner where he used foil. His idea of using a patio heater seems to give good results as some videos I have watched show that they did not get uniform heating of their plastic.

I am looking forward to making heaps of stuff and even have my first buck which is for an acoustic tile for my Home Cinema. When I made the buck in 2010, I had a local plastics company vac form it for me at a cost of $85! They supplied the material [ABS] as well for that price. Based on the price of materials like HIPS, each tile should cost me less than $5.00 to make which is awesome because I need about 20 tiles for my room.

So far the Vac Form in my photos has cost just $35.00 with maybe another $50 for all the other parts I need including the heating unit.

Tiles aside, one project I am gearing up for is going to be an all clear (polycarb) version of the BTTF 2 bag I made, but this one will feature all the thing I was not able to do on that project including recessed handles, lids that slide around the body and tapered ends. I am also looking into getting my decals laser cut from rubber or something flexible so I can Vac Form raised letters and SWOOSH on the lids.

 

[GridGhost]

Cast the helmet and only vac form the visor would be my suggestion.

I know that's how most people do it, but I'm trying to find an alternative to building the vacuum form. If you will recall, Crimson490 made his CLU helmet using clear resin. (I see you've posted on that thread as well)

http://www.therpf.com/f24/clu-rinzler-helmet-128390/

If I can get the resin clear enough, I'm not sure why I would take the time and money to try and build a vacuum form, not to mention the cost of the multiple components for the helmet. I'm currently researching the best techniques for the resin.

 

[GridGhost]

These are not hard to build and I think a clear plastic helmet made from a Vac Form will be much more durable than a resin cast. It will certainly be bubble free. I'd also be really concerned about the resin helmet smashing if it was ever dropped.

From what I've read the resin is actually very durable, and the cost would be a fraction of that if I went with the vacuum forming. For the amount of resin I need it could cost about $30 a helmet. Don't get me wrong, though I am trying to be inexpensive I wouldn't sacrifice the integrity of the helmet because I am a cheap ass.

I honestly don't have a lot of funds, nor experience for such a large project and am trying to make do within my capabilities. Not to mention that besides Rinzler, I also have to build a Black Guard helmet for my wife. Plus the cost of the rest of the costumes and the modifications I have to make to the identity discs... needless to say if I can get the resin to work, it would be in my best interest.

 

[sparky042]

have you looked at Smooth-On's "Crystal Clear" series of liquid plastics?

Crystal Clear® Optically Clear Casting Resin from Smooth-On, Inc

gallery: Crystal Clear® Creations

their products are typically easy to use, even for home users.

 

[GridGhost]

have you looked at Smooth-On's "Crystal Clear" series of liquid plastics?

Crystal Clear® Optically Clear Casting Resin from Smooth-On, Inc

gallery: Crystal Clear® Creations

their products are typically easy to use, even for home users.

Yes I have! I have also been looking into Alumilite as well. I'm told they are one of the clearest on the market, but obviously Smooth-On has a great reputation as well.

 

[Crimson490]

I have used Alumilite clear for all my CLU helmets, but even with meticulous vacuum degassing, there was always some amount of bubbles.

One pro to casting over vac forming is that casting can capture finely detailed surfaces with small crisp features. If your viewing area has these features, vac forming might not capture these details unless you form a really thin sheet.

One con to casting clear is that you get a somewhat distorted visibility. Even if you can get a bubble-free casting, it'll still have varying wall thicknesses which make visibility like looking through rippling water. Clear but wavy.

I'm sticking with casting one solid piece for simplicity's sake. I want to have as little secondary work to do after casting as possible! But that's just me...

 

[GridGhost]

I have used Alumilite clear for all my CLU helmets, but even with meticulous vacuum degassing, there was always some amount of bubbles.

One pro to casting over vac forming is that casting can capture finely detailed surfaces with small crisp features. If your viewing area has these features, vac forming might not capture these details unless you form a really thin sheet.

One con to casting clear is that you get a somewhat distorted visibility. Even if you can get a bubble-free casting, it'll still have varying wall thicknesses which make visibility like looking through rippling water. Clear but wavy.

I'm sticking with casting one solid piece for simplicity's sake. I want to have as little secondary work to do after casting as possible! But that's just me...

You've pretty much listed ALL of my concerns. XD

I too wanted to cast one solid piece for simplicity, but was very much concerned about the clarity. Though the vacuum forming would definitely help with visibility, I was kind of put off with not only building a vacuum form, but the materials wasted in the end. If I construct it using Artfunk's tutorial, I would cast the entire helmet, only to throw out half of it and replace the top with vacuum formed plastic.

However, since then I have found a very basic vacuum form tutorial, and once that is built it seems the cost of the plastic sheet and resin would equal that of the Alumilite. In the end I will probably just end up vacuum forming the top. Though I would so much rather the one cast step, I think I have to bite the bullet and choose visibility over simplicity. Unlike the CLU helmet (which is fantastic btw) Rinzler's helmet would probably be harder to fit a visibility window in, given the shape.

 

[Crimson490]

Given that you'll be making a Rinzler helmet, I think vac forming is perfect. The viewing area is basically smooth - no need to get any small crisp details with casting.

And though you'll incurr some costs making your vac former, it's still cheaper than buying a vacuum pump and chamber to degass a clear resin.

Good luck, and thanks for the kind words. =)

 

[GridGhost]

Given that you'll be making a Rinzler helmet, I think vac forming is perfect. The viewing area is basically smooth - no need to get any small crisp details with casting.

And though you'll incurr some costs making your vac former, it's still cheaper than buying a vacuum pump and chamber to degass a clear resin.

Good luck, and thanks for the kind words. =)

Exactly what I was thinking.

Well thank you so much for all your help. I'm much more confident in my project now. My only concerns now are getting the sculpting perfect for the eventual master mold. I'll be sure to post images on the Tron Legacy costume thread as I make progress.