Filling holes in resin?

howlingwind13

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I have a resin lid for a Mr. Fusion, the front has several holes what's the best filler for resin? I've heard for tiny holes some fill with super glue...any truth to that method working?
Thanks
mike
 
I have a resin lid for a Mr. Fusion, the front has several holes what's the best filler for resin? I've heard for tiny holes some fill with super glue...any truth to that method working?
Thanks
mike

If they are pin pricks size, yeah, but anything over that use a nice automotive bondo filler. The thing to remember about using super glue to fill the hole is that super glue is considerably harder than resin and will have some differential when it comes to sanding. So if you fill too much you may get a blob of a hard cured glue that's a pain to sand down.
 
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If the holes are tiny, I've always had great luck with wood filler from Home Depot. Easy to work with, and sandable.
 
I use Bondo Glazing/Spot putty. You can get it at Wal-Mart or any automotive store. It's cheap, goes a long way, and sands like a dream.
 
Bondo or even Squadron white putty for fixing surface flaws, and Aves Apoxie Sculpt if it's a large gap, or something that needs to retain fine detail/get tapped/drilled.

Like for this - I used Aves:
DSC06124.jpg

DSC06122.jpg

P1000239.jpg


For this (pinprick-sized pitting that revealed itself when hit with a metallic paint) I used Squadron white putty:
P1000209.jpg
 
Apoxie Sculpt works great. For tiny airbubbles, I use Bondo Glazing Putty.

The wood filler I used dissolved in water.

You can also use Plumbers Putty:

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FB
 
For small holes, sand the piece just enough to create some dust. Mix the the dust with some super glue and fill the hole (work in small batches). Sand the area within an hour while the mixture is still workable. Longer than that and the superglue will be way too hard to sand easily.

-Fred
 
If the holes are tiny, I've always had great luck with wood filler from Home Depot. Easy to work with, and sandable.

I second this... For non-load bearing filling, Elmer's Wood Filler is unbeatable.

It is WAY cheaper than the brand-name hobby fillers, requires no catalyst, generates no heat, doesn't require rubber gloves, doesn't have to be mixed, and won't glue your fingers together! And I think the dust created in sanding it is less harmful, but read the label. Thin layers set up in an hour or so.

And yes, it dissolves in water when UNCURED, which is fantastic because you can put a dab on your finger, dunk your finger in a cup of water, and smooth the stuff on.

And it sands like a dream...

TRY IT!! You won't be disappointed.
 
I second this... For non-load bearing filling, Elmer's Wood Filler is unbeatable.

It is WAY cheaper than the brand-name hobby fillers, requires no catalyst, generates no heat, doesn't require rubber gloves, doesn't have to be mixed, and won't glue your fingers together! And I think the dust created in sanding it is less harmful, but read the label. Thin layers set up in an hour or so.

And yes, it dissolves in water when UNCURED, which is fantastic because you can put a dab on your finger, dunk your finger in a cup of water, and smooth the stuff on.

And it sands like a dream...

TRY IT!! You won't be disappointed.

Is the elmers water proof once it dries?

FB
 
for larger flaws, i use aliminium filled carbodyfiller. for pinholes and scratches etc i use primer mixed to a paste with talcum powder, works wonders.
 
Here is what I had to fill. I used the Apoxie Sculpt first then after I sanded it with 300 grit, I added the Bondo Glazing putty then sanded that.

It's super smooth now.

FB

4a2808a9.jpg
 
Somebody on the Trek Prop Zone gave me a suggestion which worked - I tried using the really liquid superglue and sprinkling either resin dust (or I used baby powder) on it to get it to dry and set up really quickly. The excess can be trimmed with a hobby knife before you sand it.
 
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