Graflex construction question...

[DarthTrogdor]

For the original vintage and higher quality replicas, what is the tooling/process used to affix the end cap to the battery section?

I can't find any information on swapping the end cap. I assumed it was meant to be a permanent installation/wasn't possible without specialist equipment.... But yesterday while riveting on a D-ring, I noticed that the entire end cap with kobold can now rotate a full 360 degrees with minor resistance...

Anyone else ever encounter this? Ideas on how to "fix" it?

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

The end cap is inset on a lathed-out step and then the outer edge is rolled over to hold the end cap in place.

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

Here’s a pic of a Graflex bottom tube with the end cap removed and the edge re-rolled back over.

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

A few drops of superglue on the inside where the end cap meets the bottom tube should lock it back in place.

 

[DarthTrogdor]

Ok, neat, so, not a process I can duplicate at home.

Thanks for the reply, I'll give the super glue a shot.

 

[thd9791]

I think this is a really useful question also because very recently I found that the DV6 endcap had been removed. The rolled lip has been ground off, leaving the thin lathed rim of the tube. The endcap has been glued back in with some stuff over it, and when an endcap is put back in both the lip and surface of the endcap are flush!

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

I think this is a really useful question also because very recently I found that the DV6 endcap had been removed. The rolled lip has been ground off, leaving the thin lathed rim of the tube. The endcap has been glued back in with some stuff over it, and when an endcap is put back in both the lip and surface of the endcap are flush!

I've removed several end caps, I've always used a solid rod the same diameter as the inside of the Graflex tube to gently push the end cap up which will automatically straighten the rolled-over tube end releasing the end cap, but if you weren't concerned with the condition of the bottom tube taking the rolled-over end to a grinding wheel would remove the rolled-over lip and free the end cap exactly what you described.

I have a vintage Folmer 3-cell bottom that has 2 holes drilled for the old school d-ring clips we used to use for ANH Luke sabers meaning that updating to the correct newly discovered ANH d-ring clip would leave 1 incorrect hole exposed. I've considered removing the Folmer 3-cell end cap and replacing it with a 2-cell Folmer end cap with no holes just to get the newer d-ring attached with no 'extra' holes and still keep it a Folmer bottom tube.