Iron Man mk 50 best option?

[Djh69]

I’ve been looking into building a mk 50 suit and have seen both the pep/Eva foam route and the 3D printed option. Since I’d be wearing this occasionally, the foam option might be more manageable than a rigid printed suit. But the detail in the printed suit would be much better. Any opinions on this guys? Heres a link to the two options I was looking into.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/251441819/mark-4850-wearable-suit-upd-10-pepakura


https://www.etsy.com/listing/596404565/mark-4850-wearable-suit-model-for-3d?ref=shop_home_active_23#

 

[ChiCubsGordon24]

I guess it depends on what's more important, comfort or accuracy. I've printed a few pieces of an MK50 suit myself. You could always add some foam inside the printed pieces to be more comfortable.

 

[Djh69]

Which parts have you printed, and from which set of files? Accuracy is important but I’d like to be able to move, the printed suit looks like the parts will be difficult to move in. I’ve never seen a foam suit up close in person. Is the detail on them soft?

 

[Heaven]

Which parts have you printed, and from which set of files? Accuracy is important but I’d like to be able to move, the printed suit looks like the parts will be difficult to move in. I’ve never seen a foam suit up close in person. Is the detail on them soft?

One thing you cant try is EVA foam covered with vinyl leather. https://www.deviantart.com/oucd45/art/Iron-Man-MK50-Torso-1-745940317. No need to deal with painting foam, you just have to find the vinyl and learn how to apply the leather to the foam. https://www.deviantart.com/oucd45/art/Iron-Man-MK-50-Cosplay-1-754008886. It actually looks really nice in final form

 

[efarley]

This is not really a great comparison... Pepakura will just end with you casting the paper parts in polyurethane which is just as rigid and uncomfortable as printed parts only you have to invest WAYYYY more time and money into the Pep route than just 3D printing, especially if you already have a printer available.

Go the foam route and you'll look like a 10 year old made the suit in his bedroom on his $2/week allowance, foam suits are all trash (IMHO). They are too porous to look like metal, it's too flimsy to hold it's shape, it's too heat sensitive to leave in a car (also a problem if you print with PLA), it's too thick to properly render small details/parts, it makes small parts look too bulky (due to it's thickness) and it just screams "cheap amateur suit".

Now that I ruled out foam realistically your processes are going to be either:

Pepakura

• Print out pep patterns
• Cut out patterns
• Spend many many many hours gluing the patterns together
• Go buy resin and respirator to apply the resin to the part,
• Add tons of Bondo then sand, sand and more sanding.
• Now you're finally ready to make a mold of the part which means buying mold making supplies
• Once you have your mold you will need a two part polyurethane mix to slush cast the part
• More sanding to clean up the final cast
• Finally you'll need to paint it.

Pepakura Materials Needed

• Paper
• Lots of SuperGlue
• Fiberglass Resin
• Respirator
• Bondo
• Sandpaper
• Non-Sulfur Clay (for the mold)
• 2 Part Silicon Rubber (for the mold)
• 2 Part Polyurethane (for the cast)
• Paint

3D Printed

• Cut the part into printable pieces (depends on printer volume and part size)
• Print the parts
• Sand down any print flaws
• Glue pieces together (assuming you cut the part)
• Apply Bondo, then sand, sand and sand some more
• Paint

3D Printed Materials

• Filament
• Lots of SuperGlue
• Bondo
• Sandpaper
• Paint

As far as it being uncomfortable? Welcome to costuming, you're often going to have to choose between something that's realistic and accurate or something that's comfortable. Actors constantly complain about the makeup/costumes for good reasons, welcome to the club Personally I like to bring my main cosplay which will probably suck to wear (I'm printing an Ironman suit and I fully expect it to be miserable, but it'll look awesome) but also something that's light and comfortable to change into when I just wanna relax be comfortable and enjoy the con.

 

[ChiCubsGordon24]

Which parts have you printed, and from which set of files? Accuracy is important but I’d like to be able to move, the printed suit looks like the parts will be difficult to move in. I’ve never seen a foam suit up close in person. Is the detail on them soft?

I printed the forearm and hand pieces of the DO3D file. So admittedly not a lot of the suit. Foam, in my opinion, looks amateurish unless its laser cut, however, i have seen some really good foam suits.

 

[Djh69]

I’ve printed out a mark 50 helmet on the Z-18 at work. Came out pretty well. Thinking the Maxcraft files will be the way to go unless somebody knows of a better set of files.

I had a Bruce Handing Robocop suit, but ended up selling it. Thing was a pain to move in.

 

[Djh69]

One thing you cant try is EVA foam covered with vinyl leather. https://www.deviantart.com/oucd45/art/Iron-Man-MK50-Torso-1-745940317. No need to deal with painting foam, you just have to find the vinyl and learn how to apply the leather to the foam. https://www.deviantart.com/oucd45/art/Iron-Man-MK-50-Cosplay-1-754008886. It actually looks really nice in final form

That actually does look pretty good. Thanks for sharing it.

 

[Djh69]

This suit from Do3d looks really good but I doubt you can move in it. The joints look like it was one big piece cut apart with no thought of mobility. I think there’d have to be a lot of modification to get this to work.


http://do3d.com/product/3d-printabl...-avengers-infinity-war-print-file-format-stl/

 

[wannabe]

Currently printing the Do3d mk50...scale the files properly and it turns out just fine

 

[Djh69]

Looking good! Did you get the leg sections and torso sections to print in one piece?

 

[wannabe]

Looking good! Did you get the leg sections and torso sections to print in one piece?

All sections have been printed in a single piece for strength and to avoid messing around gluing and smoothing joints.

 

[Djh69]

That’s awesome! Looks really great.

 

[Mad Monkey]

It's amazing how awesome 3d printing is. And versatile

 

[Djh69]

My S5 just showed up. Uh, some assembly required.... I’ll be printing out parts here soon I hope.

 

[Mad Monkey]

that printer looks fun to build!

where did you get it from? 3d printing is just amazing to me

 

[Djh69]

I bought it from tinymachines.com I got all the options which basically doubled the price, but they test every machine before they send it out which sounded real good. I’ll be posting about my mark 45 print and progress soon.

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/creality-cr10s5

 

[Mad Monkey]

Wow! Now that's a fancy machine, I like it! Wife would kill me if I bought one though haha can't wait to see your progress stuff

 

[Quantum Stan]

Foam is a good way to start 4mm-6mm HD. Sealed and painted or covered with leatherette will add a different look so I combine paint and fabric cover. 4 way stretch works well. Detail is as much as you have time for it's all about what you want...it's cosplay dude.
Attaching fabric to foam is accomplished by either contact cement or medium temp hot glue.
Foam will only be as good has the time and patience you put in the cutting it and assembling it. Once you know how to do inward angle cuts and outward angle cuts that will improve your building tremendously. Once you know how to do undercuts you will be able to minimize the amount of cuts and pieces you use.
My next build will be a combination of foam and 3D... 3D can be made very comfortable with stretch fabric elastic and straps. Some hardware on all of the flex spots like elbows knees and shoulders will also allow the suit to be more comfortable. I'm sorry but I do not agree with the foam not producing a good suit this is my first build and I'm very happy with results I'm getting from foam.
Some of the best suits I've seen are made with foam, it's all about Time patience and your preference.