Let's Talk All Things 3d for prop creation, Scan, Design, Sculpt (real and digital), Print and Finish

greenmachines

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here we place our collective tools, tips and processes for the gathering, processing and producing of replica props using the 3d print in combination with other casting and finishing tools. For years, I have hand built some things, sculpted others in clay and created molds and used multiple materials as final casts in the creation of at least portions of replica props. In my pursuit of screen accurate cosplay, I have found that many of the smaller items in a costume are simply not available as an aftermarket purchase and not popular enough in themselves to be already available as a collectible. This void of availability has led me to wish I could more easily produce these one off items and allow others to benefit from that effort without needing to become master sculptors or wait for a production run. After leaning hard into the learning curve for 3d scanners, digital design software, 3d printing and post print finishing and weathering, I realize that even these steps were worth sharing rather than just the single cosplay or item I was focused on for the present. I am going to be posting here, the links, the videos, the samples, settings and tips that I have gathered in this short time in this new world. Many of you if not most have more experience in this than I and some of these "tips" will seem silly or newb and they will be because that is where I am. Newb struggling with these awesome tools, one step below Star Trek Replicator.

For my first post I want to share a process that was as close to natural as I could get with the added ability of sharing the result across the internet with therpf members who were working on the same prop, at the same time.

I sculpted my prop using a non drying clay, real world sculpting. Something that wasn't going to push me over the edge for unfamiliar tech on day one. Once I had my starting point, I borrowed a 3d scanner from my aunt and struggled through learning how to use it "new out of the box". This led to learning "mesh" software which is NOT a design software in the historical sense but made especially for taking measured scans of a 3d object and mapping it into a shape using hundreds of separate points (just like the dots they throw on a motion capture actor). This is then opened into a true 3d software program (some are both mesh and 3d in one). At this stage the design can be shared and sent electronically to collaborate with other uber prop fans around the world, which we did. When the file was complete and it was time to go to printing, it has to go through another piece of software called a slicer that cuts it into the layers it needs to be printed on a 3d printer (there are many many kinds) or to be fabricated using a cnc mill or similar. These two processes are creating the same object but one is adding material and the other taking it away. The file was the same originally but one went to create code for a milling machine, lathe or router while the other code was for printing. Printers can print in many ways and in many materials. Once the prop was printed it needed to be prepped for paint which included different types of sanding, filling and surfacing. After all of this, it is finally ready for paint and weathering/aging.

One of the COOLEST aspects of this crazy digitization of prop making is that once it is living in the digital world, as a finished 3d object, it can be scaled up or down easily during the printing or machining processes. It can even be used as an object in games, in photos and in videos. Imagine being the super fan that happens to be a foot and a half taller than the actor from the movie. The prop can be scaled up to match your size and your finished photos can look very similar to the original instead of "Big maaaaan in a little cooooaaaat...." (and yes, I miss Chris Farley).

So here I will post all of the links and tips I have picked up from other threads and from all the rpf'ers who insist on being cool and lending a hand to newbs, which is most of them. Please post at will and on whichever portion of the process you wish to talk about. I certainly will not be maintaining the thread nor refereeing content. It is just a spot to post your tips and your questions and hopefully your success and failure pictures as well. If you have a thread of this nature or of a specific portion of this, Please Please Please, add a link here so everyone can find you and your info. Many of my links will be external videos or software so always be cautious and safe about how you surf, follow, or download as nothing on the internet is without its risk and what might be a working link one day can be hijacked the next.

And always expect that I am resharing and am not a pro saying my way is the only way. Call me out on anything you see that is just simply wrong or offer a better way.

Here is a link I found today that actually resolved at least 10 if not maybe all 12 of the common newb issues in the 3d software called Blender:

 
Here we place our collective tools, tips and processes for the gathering, processing and producing of replica props using the 3d print in combination with other casting and finishing tools. For years, I have hand built some things, sculpted others in clay and created molds and used multiple materials as final casts in the creation of at least portions of replica props. In my pursuit of screen accurate cosplay, I have found that many of the smaller items in a costume are simply not available as an aftermarket purchase and not popular enough in themselves to be already available as a collectible. This void of availability has led me to wish I could more easily produce these one off items and allow others to benefit from that effort without needing to become master sculptors or wait for a production run. After leaning hard into the learning curve for 3d scanners, digital design software, 3d printing and post print finishing and weathering, I realize that even these steps were worth sharing rather than just the single cosplay or item I was focused on for the present. I am going to be posting here, the links, the videos, the samples, settings and tips that I have gathered in this short time in this new world. Many of you if not most have more experience in this than I and some of these "tips" will seem silly or newb and they will be because that is where I am. Newb struggling with these awesome tools, one step below Star Trek Replicator.

For my first post I want to share a process that was as close to natural as I could get with the added ability of sharing the result across the internet with therpf members who were working on the same prop, at the same time.

I sculpted my prop using a non drying clay, real world sculpting. Something that wasn't going to push me over the edge for unfamiliar tech on day one. Once I had my starting point, I borrowed a 3d scanner from my aunt and struggled through learning how to use it "new out of the box". This led to learning "mesh" software which is NOT a design software in the historical sense but made especially for taking measured scans of a 3d object and mapping it into a shape using hundreds of separate points (just like the dots they throw on a motion capture actor). This is then opened into a true 3d software program (some are both mesh and 3d in one). At this stage the design can be shared and sent electronically to collaborate with other uber prop fans around the world, which we did. When the file was complete and it was time to go to printing, it has to go through another piece of software called a slicer that cuts it into the layers it needs to be printed on a 3d printer (there are many many kinds) or to be fabricated using a cnc mill or similar. These two processes are creating the same object but one is adding material and the other taking it away. The file was the same originally but one went to create code for a milling machine, lathe or router while the other code was for printing. Printers can print in many ways and in many materials. Once the prop was printed it needed to be prepped for paint which included different types of sanding, filling and surfacing. After all of this, it is finally ready for paint and weathering/aging.

One of the COOLEST aspects of this crazy digitization of prop making is that once it is living in the digital world, as a finished 3d object, it can be scaled up or down easily during the printing or machining processes. It can even be used as an object in games, in photos and in videos. Imagine being the super fan that happens to be a foot and a half taller than the actor from the movie. The prop can be scaled up to match your size and your finished photos can look very similar to the original instead of "Big maaaaan in a little cooooaaaat...." (and yes, I miss Chris Farley).

So here I will post all of the links and tips I have picked up from other threads and from all the rpf'ers who insist on being cool and lending a hand to newbs, which is most of them. Please post at will and on whichever portion of the process you wish to talk about. I certainly will not be maintaining the thread nor refereeing content. It is just a spot to post your tips and your questions and hopefully your success and failure pictures as well. If you have a thread of this nature or of a specific portion of this, Please Please Please, add a link here so everyone can find you and your info. Many of my links will be external videos or software so always be cautious and safe about how you surf, follow, or download as nothing on the internet is without its risk and what might be a working link one day can be hijacked the next.

And always expect that I am resharing and am not a pro saying my way is the only way. Call me out on anything you see that is just simply wrong or offer a better way.

Here is a link I found today that actually resolved at least 10 if not maybe all 12 of the common newb issues in the 3d software called Blender:

Excellent start greenmachines; I'm sure others will chime in with their personal trial/errors/experience on that subject.(y)(y)(y)
 
Throwing this link up from Too Much Garlic on a dedicated mesh software thread covering Meshmixer tips and tricks. This first post is mind blowing for newbs like me. The how-to covers the creation of flat surfaces on incomplete or corrupted scans. An example would be having a scan but not being able to get around to get a good angle from lower to the bottom. Scanners will often guess ans try to fill in the gap which then creates internal structures that will seriously mess with you during sculpting.

Thread '3D Modeling - Meshmixer Tips' 3D Modeling - Meshmixer Tips

Keep that thread favorited as meshmixer is one of the very popular free mesh/sculpt/design and print slice, all in one programs that will be a go to favorite for those intending to capture and prepare for printing rather than only print purchased/finished designs.
 
This link is for the long running print convo with Jintosh with many tips and process threads for working with design software and the creation of print files (stl) and similar for personal one off use. Honestly, my go-to favorite for all around 3d knowledge over many many projects. A thread that is likely to be as insanely popular and long running as the paper props threads.

Thread 'Prop Replica STL files Section Free Personal Use' Prop Replica STL files Section Free Personal Use
 
This link is for TazMan2000 's 3d design show off thread.

Thread 'Post pics of your own 3D creations (not purchased)' Post pics of your own 3D creations (not purchased)

It is EXACTLY as it states, you show off your work, just like when we post completed photos of cosplay builds and finished clay sculptures. It is not for posting stl or design files but only pictures of projects AND only of items you designed yourself. Example: you start from a blank screen and you create the onscreen design. It is not a 3d print gallery nor a model thread but specifically for stuff designed by you.

Do not be "that guy" asking for print files, they are not being offered. It isn't the junkyard or the services forum. It is, instead, the heroine doling inspiration page for those that love to see what others have done or are doing. There are other threads that openly announce they are sharing. Don't make it awkward. If you are that stoked, about something you see there, you can always private message but don't jam up their picture thread with sales chat.

But please do so here. This is a great spot to ask and to offer. Speaking of, I am posting laellee 's thread in the next post because I saw someone asking for print service very recently.
 
This link is a services offering from laellee and has many examples of previous printed works as an example of what is being offered. You can post your request for quote there or private message for the same. I truly cannot remember who had asked but it was just the last couple days. I am breaking the ice by posting this first link but am hoping we get a comprehensive list built up here for quick reference on future projects.

Thread 'Accepting 3d design and prop commissions' Service - Accepting 3d design and prop commissions
 
My buddy makes gaming tables and accessories so is constantly running 10 to 20 printers simultaneously. I only recently unboxed my printer so we had never really jazzed about the techniques but instead about their product line. Recently, I started into the hell of new print bed and cried on his voicemail for a bit about adhesion first layer failures. One of his craziest sounding tips turns out to be one of the most successful and easy to implement. Gluing the print bed top surface.

20250303_005002.jpg



I will admit now that I am always looking for an easier way with less maintenance. This glue method adds serious first layer adhesion success but also allows flawless part removal. Roll on a layer of color changing glue on the topmost surface, wait for the purple to go away and print like you know how. Went from spaghetti factory to adhesion success on the first use. All the other videos I saw online went on and on about cleaning the bed...... which turned out to be useless information without this step. This is where my laziness kicks in. He said they clean each bed with soap and water then alcohol and then reglue.... for every run. But not I, I was cleaning after every run because adhesion failed if not, until I used the glue. I now just remove all filament remains and print again. After using the glue I have had zero adhesion issues and am no longer damaging my bed surface while trying to remove burned on stuck prints. Yes, I am lazy but I am also newb, so, this should tell you how wonderfully well this glue trick works. I'm sure there are situations where it wouldn't but I haven't found one yet. Keep in mind I had already adjusted bed levelers (mine are manual) adjusted first layer z height AND use the bed mapping before printing (finds warpage in the bed and ironically is falsely named 'bed leveling' which it doesn't do). I will talk about those other issues one at a time, later, but for now PURPLE COLOR CHANGING GLUE IS YOUR FRIEND!!
 
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