Yavin 4 scanner (ANH) - all major parts positively identified

sorry for the delay in getting these done. but I finally have the molds for the motors done.
I have some screws and some small bits to get tomorrow, but I will be casting these up for any one who wants them
the two motors with the top greeblie for the spot 1 is $225 + shipping
I will run thread in the JY, but your more than welcome to preorder if you like, just pm me


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That´s unbelievably cool...love your resin work Jerry.

Would love to see the mold setup. Want to learn from the master :)
 
That´s unbelievably cool...love your resin work Jerry.

Would love to see the mold setup. Want to learn from the master :)


I try to keep my molds simple as possible. open one piece molds are great, the other would be one piece mold that is cut into on one side to remove the part, this is a very nice way of getting one side with not part lines, and the rest of the mold lines up great! there is a ton of ways to do 2 or multiple piece molds, it just depends on what is needed to capture the part best and have proper ventilation for trapped air to release.
 
That´s unbelievably cool...love your resin work Jerry.

Would love to see the mold setup. Want to learn from the master :)

the parts needing to be two sided had clay built up on or in one side. once that side was captured in silicone the clay was removed, then the second half was made. I chose to cut in the vent and pour spout on this one.
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the next mold was the grip tube, it was made by using a tube in the center of the part, this did three things, kept the wall an even thickness, made it more flexible and easy to remove the part, and saved on silicone :)

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one of my goals when ever I make a mold is to keep cleanup of the part as simple as I can and maintain a clean image capture of the part. some times this creates more work for me to achieve this.
this part was filled with clay and tack glued to a flat surface, the containment was made and the silicone filled it. the mold with the part still in place was released and the clay was removed , the part was fully cleaned with rubbing alcohol . and then the second half was made. again I cut in the vent and pour spout, but after a couple test runs, my suspicions were right, there was more vents needed, you can see where air was trapped inside the mold. I simply take a brass tube and cut the inside edge sharp with a razor and push it right through the silicone :) easy pleasey

IMG_8871.JPG
 
the parts needing to be two sided had clay built up on or in one side. once that side was captured in silicone the clay was removed, then the second half was made. I chose to cut in the vent and pour spout on this one.
View attachment 997696 View attachment 997697 View attachment 997698

the next mold was the grip tube, it was made by using a tube in the center of the part, this did three things, kept the wall an even thickness, made it more flexible and easy to remove the part, and saved on silicone :)

View attachment 997699

one of my goals when ever I make a mold is to keep cleanup of the part as simple as I can and maintain a clean image capture of the part. some times this creates more work for me to achieve this.
this part was filled with clay and tack glued to a flat surface, the containment was made and the silicone filled it. the mold with the part still in place was released and the clay was removed , the part was fully cleaned with rubbing alcohol . and then the second half was made. again I cut in the vent and pour spout, but after a couple test runs, my suspicions were right, there was more vents needed, you can see where air was trapped inside the mold. I simply take a brass tube and cut the inside edge sharp with a razor and push it right through the silicone :) easy pleasey

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Well...reads like what I am trying to archieve, but I fail most of the time *lol*

What brand of silicone/ what resin are you using?
 
GREAT work, as always, Jerry! I've been gone this week on some travel (more on that a bit later in another thread) but just wanted to pop in and say how really sharp this all looks to me - I've stared at the originals a lot! Once the actual JY or PR thread gets launched I will post there a library of reference shots from my original parts so that folks will have some painting and weathering style guides. I've also made layered Photoshop .psd files for the printed text details that are on the Minolta primarily (there are also some very small printed details on the motor switches) so you'll be able to make decals for those.

Dan
 
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BTW...what is that top greeblie? Has it ever been positively identified?

As Jerry replied, we still do not know. The version Jerry has cast here is from the 3D print I sent him of my best match/guess from on-screen shots and a couple of unpublished on-location images that show what I think is that greeblie in another context. Fortunately, it's such a small and inexpensive piece that it'll be easily replaced if/once we ever get a positive ID on the actual found part...

Dan
 
I am happy to own a set of real parts myself, but am thrilled by the quality ofJerry´s and your work Dan!

Can´t wait to see the first finished replicas to pop up...I did not do anything to my Arriflex motors yet
 
They look as professionally done as your Kalimar lenses.

Will you be moulding the Minolta?
If so, I'd purchase an entire kit, but given the rarity of the spot meter, I'm more cautious as to purchasing 1/2 a prop where I'll be very unlikely to find the other 50%!

Please, make it so.

EDIT 5 minutes later:
I spoke too soon.
Just bought one off eBay, so they do seem to be out there!

Jerry, I'll be contacting you soon!
 
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Just bought one off eBay, so they do seem to be out there!

Yes, I've seen several Minolta's show up on eBay in the last several weeks. They are to be found. But they will eventually run rare, I'm sure, so the cast replicas will be good to have handy. But given that some Minoltas are showing up from time to time Jerry has rightly focused first on getting the Arri motors ready to go.

Dan
 
there will be a Minolta kit available, it will be in 4 pieces so not as detailed as the motors. if I got to detailed it would be over priced since the real meter can be found for under $100
Ive ordered the screws for the motors, they will be here in a week. they will be the original size threads and will screw together like the real parts. I am having trouble finding a tiny screw, it may be a custom ordered screw arri had made. the fasteners store I went to did not have any gauge that matched the threads and size. we may need to fudge on a tiny detail.

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