Limited Run Luke / Vader ANH shared stunt saber kit

Hello guys,
I have a pretty big bunch of photos to show tonight!
and sorry, but as always, i'm going to talk and talk and talk... no way around it if you want to follow my runs, it's just who i am ;-)

Doing a run comes with a whole lot of issues to fix all the time, solutions to find and a lot of sweat and stress. For me, it's a constant worry and hope that everything will end up working and that people will be happy with my work.
This run is no different, there are always problems, difficulties and stress. The knurling and modification of the lathe was definitely up there, but here as well, figuring out how I was going to do that very organic curve at the emiter end was a challenge. I'm not working with a CNC and I want my parts to always be super accurate. So I had to find a way to make it happen while doing everything by hand.

I'm happy to repport that the solutions I came up with worked like a charm, it's a very involved and tiring process but the result is perfect and I'm super happy with the parts!

First step on the tubes was to clean the bottom end, it needs to be clean and square to accept the knurled cap nicelly. I actually bought a sanding machine for that step as it's not possible to put such long tubes on my lathe and have them fly around all the time. And, this machine is going to be one of those useless investments i think. I ended up simply milling the ends with the biggest end mill I have and a quick sanding with a fine grit on a flat surface. The result is really clean so all is well :)
(on the left is straight from the saw, and cleaned up on the right obviously)
IMG_20240512_103301.jpg


Now for the harder part, the front curve.
I printed a resin sleeve directly from my matched 3D model so I could trace the actual contour of the shape I want:
IMG_20240513_180738.jpg

I then need to put the part squared in the mill vice so I can cut both sides at the same time:
IMG_20240513_180847.jpg

then I approximate the shape as close as possible until the black line is almost gone. I have a really bad back and this is the really hard part for me as I need to lean forward most of the time to see what I'm doing. But I'm almost done with the 65 parts and so far so good, just painful, no blocked back.
IMG_20240513_181324.jpg


Once this is done, here comes the second cool solution to get a perfect shape. I printed a second jig, taking the exact shape of the emiter straight from my model, printing it flat and attaching adhesive sandpaper to it:
IMG_20240515_100949.jpg

IMG_20240515_115538.jpg

and (9.5 minutes in average of sanding later) voila!
IMG_20240515_120220.jpg

IMG_20240515_120348.jpg

IMG_20240515_120400.jpg

I'm so happy with the result and I hope you guys will like it as well.
This is the exact shape I wanted/needed, the result is clean and perfectly consistent on all tubes. Once again, it's just tiring as 9.5m of sanding per tube adds up very quickly and it's kind of hard to do more than 5 or 6 in a row. But 2 or 3 days from now and that should all be done!

So, still a bit of work, then figuring out the assembled sabers and the motorized sabers especially, but this is shaping up nicelly. I hope you guys will be excited by the update :)
cheers all!
 
What an absolutely gorgeous finished product, and terrific engineering with that 3d printed jig for sanding it. Hope you're not in too much pain from the process. Fingers crossed to get one of the motorized pieces, got my Roman and WannaWanga parts ready to go. Don't want to be too arrogant though.
 
Hey there,
I finished 4 long days of milling and sanding!
the tubes just need the holes to be done now but the shape is finished :)
I'm very happy with the result, I made a quick second pass of sanding with 400 grit with the 3D printed caul, then a quick pass with a 600 grit paper on a wood dowel on the long side of the slope to remove the perpendicular sanding line, then going all around the shape with 000 wire wool to get a clean result like the sanding was done always along the tube thickness, if that all makes sense... Sorry a bit hard to put words on this!

anyways, here are 65 sanded tubes!
IMG_20240518_174537.jpg

and an honest close up of some tubes to get an idea of how clean the front emiter shape is and the overall brushed look with a few scratches that were present on the raw tubes.
IMG_20240518_174722.jpg

IMG_20240518_174747.jpg

IMG_20240518_174816.jpg


I hope you guys like it, and I hope the holes will go well now.
I will have a few things to explain next for the red button threads as I am now at my 3rd tapping tool... always fun surprises when doing a project!
cheers all
 
Hey there,
I finished 4 long days of milling and sanding!
the tubes just need the holes to be done now but the shape is finished :)
I'm very happy with the result, I made a quick second pass of sanding with 400 grit with the 3D printed caul, then a quick pass with a 600 grit paper on a wood dowel on the long side of the slope to remove the perpendicular sanding line, then going all around the shape with 000 wire wool to get a clean result like the sanding was done always along the tube thickness, if that all makes sense... Sorry a bit hard to put words on this!

anyways, here are 65 sanded tubes!
View attachment 1821773
and an honest close up of some tubes to get an idea of how clean the front emiter shape is and the overall brushed look with a few scratches that were present on the raw tubes.
View attachment 1821774
View attachment 1821775
View attachment 1821776

I hope you guys like it, and I hope the holes will go well now.
I will have a few things to explain next for the red button threads as I am now at my 3rd tapping tool... always fun surprises when doing a project!
cheers all
Looks awesome!! Keep up the great work :)
 
When a run approaches the end, each day is a matter of fixing a new issue.
Today I discovered the inside of the nut/cap of the switches i bought is only threaded a mm or 2 at the top and when you put it on the tube, it barely grabs the threads. Very silly design!
I'm getting used to not worry about this kind of small issues anymore though, made a small jig to secure the caps on the lathe and I'm shaving a mm off the base, that will make them more sturdy and more accurate (to the very few blury refs we have of those) and will only be about an hour of work for the run, so be it :)
IMG_20240523_175817.jpg

this works like a charm :)
IMG_20240523_180355.jpg


the sabers look good though! the white parts are lovely I think :)
IMG_20240523_180437.jpg


I had a back and forth chat with Halliwax today and he helped me decide on the last few parts to order (thanks so much Halliwax!), accurate plugs, proper wire. ALL is ordered and I should receive them in the next few days. I postponed a few things a bit too long being too busy, but all is good, I shouldn't have to wait for anything normally.
I still don't want to announce a definitive deadline, but I'm hoping to release everything around the first week of June if I don't get too many bad surprises working on the motorized sabers.

I know this run has also been a bit longer than anticipated, i'm sorry for this, i'm doing my best juggling with our very busy life here, my wife starting a full time job and having a bit too many projects on the plate. I hope the constant communication and updates were plesant to follow at least.

thank you all for your patience and support on my projects, it is much appreciated,
cheers all!
 
When a run approaches the end, each day is a matter of fixing a new issue.
Today I discovered the inside of the nut/cap of the switches i bought is only threaded a mm or 2 at the top and when you put it on the tube, it barely grabs the threads. Very silly design!
I'm getting used to not worry about this kind of small issues anymore though, made a small jig to secure the caps on the lathe and I'm shaving a mm off the base, that will make them more sturdy and more accurate (to the very few blury refs we have of those) and will only be about an hour of work for the run, so be it :)
View attachment 1823262
this works like a charm :)
View attachment 1823263

the sabers look good though! the white parts are lovely I think :)
View attachment 1823264

I had a back and forth chat with Halliwax today and he helped me decide on the last few parts to order (thanks so much Halliwax!), accurate plugs, proper wire. ALL is ordered and I should receive them in the next few days. I postponed a few things a bit too long being too busy, but all is good, I shouldn't have to wait for anything normally.
I still don't want to announce a definitive deadline, but I'm hoping to release everything around the first week of June if I don't get too many bad surprises working on the motorized sabers.

I know this run has also been a bit longer than anticipated, i'm sorry for this, i'm doing my best juggling with our very busy life here, my wife starting a full time job and having a bit too many projects on the plate. I hope the constant communication and updates were plesant to follow at least.

thank you all for your patience and support on my projects, it is much appreciated,
cheers all!
Life and projects are hard to manage, I think you do a great job! Thanks for the update!
 
When a run approaches the end, each day is a matter of fixing a new issue.
Today I discovered the inside of the nut/cap of the switches i bought is only threaded a mm or 2 at the top and when you put it on the tube, it barely grabs the threads. Very silly design!
I'm getting used to not worry about this kind of small issues anymore though, made a small jig to secure the caps on the lathe and I'm shaving a mm off the base, that will make them more sturdy and more accurate (to the very few blury refs we have of those) and will only be about an hour of work for the run, so be it :)
View attachment 1823262
this works like a charm :)
View attachment 1823263

the sabers look good though! the white parts are lovely I think :)
View attachment 1823264

I had a back and forth chat with Halliwax today and he helped me decide on the last few parts to order (thanks so much Halliwax!), accurate plugs, proper wire. ALL is ordered and I should receive them in the next few days. I postponed a few things a bit too long being too busy, but all is good, I shouldn't have to wait for anything normally.
I still don't want to announce a definitive deadline, but I'm hoping to release everything around the first week of June if I don't get too many bad surprises working on the motorized sabers.

I know this run has also been a bit longer than anticipated, i'm sorry for this, i'm doing my best juggling with our very busy life here, my wife starting a full time job and having a bit too many projects on the plate. I hope the constant communication and updates were plesant to follow at least.

thank you all for your patience and support on my projects, it is much appreciated,
cheers all!
Gorgeous!!
 
Hi. I know this is a late request. I would be interested in one if you have any extras.
Hi, thank you for your interest, those will be released directly on the website, just keep an eye on this thread for the release. Thank you
 
Hey there,
Today I finished all the threaded holes for the red buttons and glass eye, this was a bit hell! but it's done.
And, I wanted to discuss the threading a bit,

When I started this run, I researched everywhere for the correct thread size of the graflex parts and ended up finding it was 5/8"-24. I also saw a mention that the metric equivalent was working as well. 5/8"-24 is extremely hard to find in Europe, so I went first with M16x1mm that is extremely close in measurements. But that didn't work, the hole was slightly too large if I remember correctly.
So, I broke the bank and bought a pretty expensive 5/8"-24 tap on a specialized website. I showed this at the begining of the run saying that it was working nicelly now but for some reason, the red button was threading nicelly and all the glass eye I had were too tight, and I had a bit more investigating to do.

well, a few weeks ago, we discussed with Roman as he was receiving his new folmer red button replicas and after a bit of investigating, he told me that his were 5/8"-28 like the vintage buttons according to what he knew.
ok... well, so I bought a new expensive specialized tap of the new proper size 5/8"-28.
well, this time it works perfectly!

So, for the record guys, the information we find on the RPF is wrong. The vintage graflexes, red buttons and glass eyes are threaded for 5/8"-28, NOT 5/8"-24, NOT M16x1mm.

supposedly simple small run, but there are always expensive surprises along the way.
IMG_20240507_100528.jpg
 
Hey there,
Today I finished all the threaded holes for the red buttons and glass eye, this was a bit hell! but it's done.
And, I wanted to discuss the threading a bit,

When I started this run, I researched everywhere for the correct thread size of the graflex parts and ended up finding it was 5/8"-24. I also saw a mention that the metric equivalent was working as well. 5/8"-24 is extremely hard to find in Europe, so I went first with M16x1mm that is extremely close in measurements. But that didn't work, the hole was slightly too large if I remember correctly.
So, I broke the bank and bought a pretty expensive 5/8"-24 tap on a specialized website. I showed this at the begining of the run saying that it was working nicelly now but for some reason, the red button was threading nicelly and all the glass eye I had were too tight, and I had a bit more investigating to do.

well, a few weeks ago, we discussed with Roman as he was receiving his new folmer red button replicas and after a bit of investigating, he told me that his were 5/8"-28 like the vintage buttons according to what he knew.
ok... well, so I bought a new expensive specialized tap of the new proper size 5/8"-28.
well, this time it works perfectly!

So, for the record guys, the information we find on the RPF is wrong. The vintage graflexes, red buttons and glass eyes are threaded for 5/8"-28, NOT 5/8"-24, NOT M16x1mm.

supposedly simple small run, but there are always expensive surprises along the way.
View attachment 1823791
Theory only gets you so far! Without actually doing the work yourself, you just have the work of others to go off of. Thanks for sacrificing your wallet, the community is now better off for it. Really goes to show there’s rarely ever a “simple” project, you never know what will end up really being involved until you do the damn thing.
 
Hey there,
Today I finished all the threaded holes for the red buttons and glass eye, this was a bit hell! but it's done.
And, I wanted to discuss the threading a bit,

When I started this run, I researched everywhere for the correct thread size of the graflex parts and ended up finding it was 5/8"-24. I also saw a mention that the metric equivalent was working as well. 5/8"-24 is extremely hard to find in Europe, so I went first with M16x1mm that is extremely close in measurements. But that didn't work, the hole was slightly too large if I remember correctly.
So, I broke the bank and bought a pretty expensive 5/8"-24 tap on a specialized website. I showed this at the begining of the run saying that it was working nicelly now but for some reason, the red button was threading nicelly and all the glass eye I had were too tight, and I had a bit more investigating to do.

well, a few weeks ago, we discussed with Roman as he was receiving his new folmer red button replicas and after a bit of investigating, he told me that his were 5/8"-28 like the vintage buttons according to what he knew.
ok... well, so I bought a new expensive specialized tap of the new proper size 5/8"-28.
well, this time it works perfectly!

So, for the record guys, the information we find on the RPF is wrong. The vintage graflexes, red buttons and glass eyes are threaded for 5/8"-28, NOT 5/8"-24, NOT M16x1mm.

supposedly simple small run, but there are always expensive surprises along the way.
View attachment 1823791
You are not lying…
 

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