Millenniumf
Sr Member
Looks like they used a slightly enlarged version of it for the main surface panels on the underside, too.
Correcting the Lunar Models 41" Excelsior
- Thread starter Vidar 710
- Start date
Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
Those drawings are well done! I tid-bit for correction if I may...
I noticed this because I've already started mapping out the deflector patterns for my masters.
In short, the top pattern is in 16deg wedges while the bottom pattern is in 15deg wedges. Both have a common gridline down the center-beam of the saucer to the bow of the saucer as a starting point.
That's why the top grid aligns with the thrusters and phaser banks, while the bottom pattern aligns with the nav lights at port n starboard.
Tracy
I noticed this because I've already started mapping out the deflector patterns for my masters.
In short, the top pattern is in 16deg wedges while the bottom pattern is in 15deg wedges. Both have a common gridline down the center-beam of the saucer to the bow of the saucer as a starting point.
That's why the top grid aligns with the thrusters and phaser banks, while the bottom pattern aligns with the nav lights at port n starboard.
Tracy
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Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
Graphics being worked out for the panels under the impulse engine exhaust ports.
A basic pattern was provided and printed it out. It still needs to be fitted properly in my scale. There are some refined details needed to be added... i.e., the bottom set of panels are not one section. They are actually divided up into 5 squares.
The pattern seen here is the original paint scheme. The only Excelsior's that sported this version before the first repaint were the NX Excelsior, the Hood, the Repulse, and the Melbourne. After that the studio model was repainted to give her a face lift for the big screen in Star Trek VI as the NCC Excelsior.
I did a test with pencil to draft in the weathering just to see how it turns out.
Tracy
A basic pattern was provided and printed it out. It still needs to be fitted properly in my scale. There are some refined details needed to be added... i.e., the bottom set of panels are not one section. They are actually divided up into 5 squares.
The pattern seen here is the original paint scheme. The only Excelsior's that sported this version before the first repaint were the NX Excelsior, the Hood, the Repulse, and the Melbourne. After that the studio model was repainted to give her a face lift for the big screen in Star Trek VI as the NCC Excelsior.
I did a test with pencil to draft in the weathering just to see how it turns out.
Tracy
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Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
To get all the above to work, the arse-end of the superstructure master needed to be corrected to the right shape and profile.
Here a paper template was made using a scaled image of the studio model to get the exact shape of the impulse exhaust region.
Sturdier styrene templates were fabricated to use as guides on where to add the sculpting material. You can also see here where the unwanted resin material is.
The exhaust had to be removed for a couple of reasons.
1. Easier to vacuum form the master.
2. Refined details on the top of the exhaust ports would be better scratch built.
This shows just how far off the Lunar Models shape really is with the sculpting material in place. The scribed line on the side of the master shows what needs to be removed.
After removing the unwanted resin material, the entire aft end is blended together.
A fresh coat of primer reveals the now corrected shape of the aft end of the superstructure. IT IS DONE and ready to be molded so a plaster buck for vacuum forming can be cast.
With the corrections made, the size-n-shape of the impulse engine exhaust port's footprint has been determined - as I said earlier, the exhaust ports will be scratch built from sheet styrene. The surface area's size-n-shape under the exhaust for the large blue graphics panels (as scene above) has also been determined.
Sorry for the delays. I'm flying the Boeing 777 now which means I'm away more than I'm home for the mean time.
Tracy
Here a paper template was made using a scaled image of the studio model to get the exact shape of the impulse exhaust region.
Sturdier styrene templates were fabricated to use as guides on where to add the sculpting material. You can also see here where the unwanted resin material is.
The exhaust had to be removed for a couple of reasons.
1. Easier to vacuum form the master.
2. Refined details on the top of the exhaust ports would be better scratch built.
This shows just how far off the Lunar Models shape really is with the sculpting material in place. The scribed line on the side of the master shows what needs to be removed.
After removing the unwanted resin material, the entire aft end is blended together.
A fresh coat of primer reveals the now corrected shape of the aft end of the superstructure. IT IS DONE and ready to be molded so a plaster buck for vacuum forming can be cast.
With the corrections made, the size-n-shape of the impulse engine exhaust port's footprint has been determined - as I said earlier, the exhaust ports will be scratch built from sheet styrene. The surface area's size-n-shape under the exhaust for the large blue graphics panels (as scene above) has also been determined.
Sorry for the delays. I'm flying the Boeing 777 now which means I'm away more than I'm home for the mean time.
Tracy
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Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
The initial shape of the exhaust port extensions has been roughed out in sheet styrene. I'll grind them down to their final shaped after the cement has cured overnight. These extensions are based on the vertical line shown on the superstructure templates just above the exhaust ports.
Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
Raised detail being added to the top surface.
The lower exhaust plate was added, and light weight filler was used to fill the cavity and give the masters strength.
After shaping everything by removing the excess styrene, the masters were coated in glazing putty to fill scratches in the surface.
After sanding smooth...
1.5mm styrene half dowels were added to the top surface's details.
To create more relief, the dowels were masked off and a thin layer of glazing putty was applied, allowed to cure, then sanded smooth.
Compairing to the studio model.
Impulse exhaust port masters completed; I taped them to the now finished superstructure master to see how they look.
The lower exhaust plate was added, and light weight filler was used to fill the cavity and give the masters strength.
After shaping everything by removing the excess styrene, the masters were coated in glazing putty to fill scratches in the surface.
After sanding smooth...
1.5mm styrene half dowels were added to the top surface's details.
To create more relief, the dowels were masked off and a thin layer of glazing putty was applied, allowed to cure, then sanded smooth.
Compairing to the studio model.
Impulse exhaust port masters completed; I taped them to the now finished superstructure master to see how they look.
Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
Grill graphics for the impulse exhaust. I'm no good on a PC so I'm drawing them out by hand.
Oval Templates made to separate the thick and thin grill lines.
The ol' Elementary school making hearts for Valintine's Day technique to get mirror opposites.
Templates put in place...
Ovals left in place...
Tracing over the exposed grid lines to thicken them up.
Oval templates removed... Not bad for free hand.
Exhaust ports placed to see how they look.
Courtesy of ILM Excelsior Modeler Bill George, lit images of the studio model's impulse exhaust with my efforts.
These drawings - like my other graphics - will be scanned and cleaned up on the PC to be printed on to clear decal paper for the construction phase.
Tracy
Oval Templates made to separate the thick and thin grill lines.
The ol' Elementary school making hearts for Valintine's Day technique to get mirror opposites.
Templates put in place...
Ovals left in place...
Tracing over the exposed grid lines to thicken them up.
Oval templates removed... Not bad for free hand.
Exhaust ports placed to see how they look.
Courtesy of ILM Excelsior Modeler Bill George, lit images of the studio model's impulse exhaust with my efforts.
These drawings - like my other graphics - will be scanned and cleaned up on the PC to be printed on to clear decal paper for the construction phase.
Tracy
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Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
I have finally moved on to the last section of the masters - the ware engine pylon assembly. This whole section was badly represented in the original kit's configuration. Here are the steps I've taken so far in fixing the shape and adding the correct details to their surface.
The middle blister was fine3 length and height-wise, but the width was significantly too wide.
The original shape in solid resin.
Using a scaled image of this section into my scale, I made a paper template.
The template was traced out onto the base of the dome. Here you can see how far off the shape was.
After the unwanted resin was ground away by a belt sander
Now the new base had to be feathered into the rest of the dome.
Results after careful sanding, shaping, and polishing to blend everything together.
On to the pylons...
Ensuring everything is still in scale, the finished secondary hull master was pressed up to the screen to make sure the Warp section will be in scale to the rest of the ship. Here a paper template was made to determine the size of the pylons and their position.
Pylon template.
All the materials to correct the warp pylon assembly except for sculping and filler materials.
More to come!
Tracy
The middle blister was fine3 length and height-wise, but the width was significantly too wide.
The original shape in solid resin.
Using a scaled image of this section into my scale, I made a paper template.
The template was traced out onto the base of the dome. Here you can see how far off the shape was.
After the unwanted resin was ground away by a belt sander
Now the new base had to be feathered into the rest of the dome.
Results after careful sanding, shaping, and polishing to blend everything together.
On to the pylons...
Ensuring everything is still in scale, the finished secondary hull master was pressed up to the screen to make sure the Warp section will be in scale to the rest of the ship. Here a paper template was made to determine the size of the pylons and their position.
Pylon template.
All the materials to correct the warp pylon assembly except for sculping and filler materials.
More to come!
Tracy
Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
Back to the pylons...
Grey strip styrene was cemented together at the right size to establish the correct wingspan. The markings are for cutting out trenches into the resin for 3/16" brass tubing. They will be sleeves for steal rod armatures during assembly on the bottom, and a single 1/4" brass tube for running wiring for power to the lights in the warp nacelles. Later on, I extended to bottom trenches for more support.
After the assembly was glued together, the terrible inconsistencies in shape and thickness became more obvious. The whole thing would need to be reshaped.
Here, sheet styrene with groves in it was selected to represent the grill details in the leading and trailing edges of the horizontal section of the pylons, and be used as a base for establishing a flat horizontal pylon wing tip to wing tip.
closer look... Two strips were cut for the leading and trailing edges.
Here they are glued into place using the flat surface of the table as a guide.
Styrene quarter round was cemented in place. These will be used to establish the new shaped for the cord (cross section) of the pylons.
Excess styrene removed.
Epoxy dough was used to fill in to the new edges. Only one section required resin to be removed by grinding and blended into the new edge.
Bottom
Top
Identical jigs made from sheet and tube styrene.
Here they are inserted on the ends of the bottom set of brass tubing. This should keep them parallel in the assembly. When the pylon wing is finished, it will be cut down the middle of the grey styrene shim exposing the open brass tubing withing. During final assembly the warp pylons should go back together perfectly aligned with steel rod in the brass.
Here, the brass tubing is set in the trenches and glued in with 5min epoxy.
More to come with the vertical sections of the pylons and the 1/4" brass tubing for an electrical conduit for wiring.
Tracy
Grey strip styrene was cemented together at the right size to establish the correct wingspan. The markings are for cutting out trenches into the resin for 3/16" brass tubing. They will be sleeves for steal rod armatures during assembly on the bottom, and a single 1/4" brass tube for running wiring for power to the lights in the warp nacelles. Later on, I extended to bottom trenches for more support.
After the assembly was glued together, the terrible inconsistencies in shape and thickness became more obvious. The whole thing would need to be reshaped.
Here, sheet styrene with groves in it was selected to represent the grill details in the leading and trailing edges of the horizontal section of the pylons, and be used as a base for establishing a flat horizontal pylon wing tip to wing tip.
closer look... Two strips were cut for the leading and trailing edges.
Here they are glued into place using the flat surface of the table as a guide.
Styrene quarter round was cemented in place. These will be used to establish the new shaped for the cord (cross section) of the pylons.
Excess styrene removed.
Epoxy dough was used to fill in to the new edges. Only one section required resin to be removed by grinding and blended into the new edge.
Bottom
Top
Identical jigs made from sheet and tube styrene.
Here they are inserted on the ends of the bottom set of brass tubing. This should keep them parallel in the assembly. When the pylon wing is finished, it will be cut down the middle of the grey styrene shim exposing the open brass tubing withing. During final assembly the warp pylons should go back together perfectly aligned with steel rod in the brass.
Here, the brass tubing is set in the trenches and glued in with 5min epoxy.
More to come with the vertical sections of the pylons and the 1/4" brass tubing for an electrical conduit for wiring.
Tracy
Awesome work, but I have to ask Tracy: with all the issues with the pylons here, would it be easier to simply scratch build a new part? Not to discount the work you've done already, it's just that all that you've had to do raises the question in my mind of how this will hold up over time?
Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
First coat of epoxy dough applied to fill in the trenches and secure the brass tubing.
Smooth On's Air Epoxy dough is very light, but also very strong. It will add to the strength of the pylons.
Second coat of Epoxy dough applied to establish the new shape. When this cures, I'll come back to this to sand to shaped.
In the meantime, I've moved to the Warp Pylon Blister/Junction to scratch build the grilled details under the dome. This is the same characteristics in the neck and Warp Nacelles.
The updated shape of the dome is used to trace out 7 layers for this grill detail. They were cut by heavy duty shears to get through the .7mm sheet styrene.
Here they are stacked to be sanded to a uniform shape after minor deviations from hand cutting each layer.
To make the spacer plates, 3/16" was removed from 4 of the plates...
Then they were sanded again to unify the spacer's shape.
Nothing is glued yet, but here's a test stacking to see how it came out.
Back to the pylons soon.
Tracy
Smooth On's Air Epoxy dough is very light, but also very strong. It will add to the strength of the pylons.
Second coat of Epoxy dough applied to establish the new shape. When this cures, I'll come back to this to sand to shaped.
In the meantime, I've moved to the Warp Pylon Blister/Junction to scratch build the grilled details under the dome. This is the same characteristics in the neck and Warp Nacelles.
The updated shape of the dome is used to trace out 7 layers for this grill detail. They were cut by heavy duty shears to get through the .7mm sheet styrene.
Here they are stacked to be sanded to a uniform shape after minor deviations from hand cutting each layer.
To make the spacer plates, 3/16" was removed from 4 of the plates...
Then they were sanded again to unify the spacer's shape.
Nothing is glued yet, but here's a test stacking to see how it came out.
Back to the pylons soon.
Tracy
Okay, that answered my concern! I was just worried that it may not have held over time, and you've put so much hard work into this project!!!
Speaking of which: really liking the rib detail on the pylon mount!!
Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
A small update...
Cutting the center circle in all the plates. This allows routing of the nacelle wiring out of the pylons through the blister/dome down into the secondary hull.
Cementing all the plates except two using brass tubing as an alignment jig, and 1-2-3 blocks to keep the assembly flat to the table while it cures.
Assembly complete - save two plates. One is .7mm like the rest, the other is .5mm. One of these will be the spacer between this assembly and the surface of the secondary hull. I'm looking more into this because images suggest that the spacing may be narrower that the spacing in the grill itself. Once I figure it out, I'll cement the chosen plate on.
Final sanding to the horizontal pylon section is complete.
Top surface...
Bottom surface...
The scaled drafting of the templates that will make the 16 raised pylon panels (top n bottom). The drawing was scanned then printed onto thick card paper to make them more durable.
Bottom...
Top...
Thanks for lookin'. More to come.
Tracy
Cutting the center circle in all the plates. This allows routing of the nacelle wiring out of the pylons through the blister/dome down into the secondary hull.
Cementing all the plates except two using brass tubing as an alignment jig, and 1-2-3 blocks to keep the assembly flat to the table while it cures.
Assembly complete - save two plates. One is .7mm like the rest, the other is .5mm. One of these will be the spacer between this assembly and the surface of the secondary hull. I'm looking more into this because images suggest that the spacing may be narrower that the spacing in the grill itself. Once I figure it out, I'll cement the chosen plate on.
Final sanding to the horizontal pylon section is complete.
Top surface...
Bottom surface...
The scaled drafting of the templates that will make the 16 raised pylon panels (top n bottom). The drawing was scanned then printed onto thick card paper to make them more durable.
Bottom...
Top...
Thanks for lookin'. More to come.
Tracy
Vidar 710
Well-Known Member
feek61.
All of the main components, such as the saucer halves, the secondary hull, the nacelles, and the pylon assembly are all present. They've just been drastically updated.
The rest is either scratch built or 3D modeled/printed. The 3D modeling became a necessity because those sections were identified as greebles used by ILM. The greebles/kit parts are not in my scale. Scratch building some of the intricate model kit parts into my scale would have been more of a challenge I was willing to undertake.
Tracy
All of the main components, such as the saucer halves, the secondary hull, the nacelles, and the pylon assembly are all present. They've just been drastically updated.
The rest is either scratch built or 3D modeled/printed. The 3D modeling became a necessity because those sections were identified as greebles used by ILM. The greebles/kit parts are not in my scale. Scratch building some of the intricate model kit parts into my scale would have been more of a challenge I was willing to undertake.
Tracy
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