Help with battery selection for Wand Star Trek TOS phaser rebuild

[tcbinaflash]

Hoping someone with more electronics skills / experience can help me out with a Wand Company Star Trek TOS phaser upgrade project that has me stumped.

I set out recently to upgrade my Wand phaser with aluminum parts, a more accurate paint job, and a working blue LED added to the P1. Also, since I was going to have to disassemble the P1 in order to install the LED, I decided to take the opportunity to replace the soldered-in stock Wand 100mAh lithium ion polymer battery and microUSB charging port with more easily replaceable button cell / watch batteries (e.g. LR754). I’ve read that folks are starting to see their Wands’ rechargeable batteries fail so thought this was a nice way to “future proof” the build while I had it ripped apart.

This is where the frustration began.

I removed the microUSB port from the Wand’s P1 FX board and installed a 3-stack of LR754 button cell batteries (see pics). I then used a resistor to drop the voltage to 3.7v to match the Wand's original lithium ion battery. It seemed to me (admittedly an amateur) that this should have worked to power the unit (including the newly-installed LED), but the sound/light board just appears dead when everything is wired up. Everything works (the FX board and new blue LED) when I reattach the Wand's original lithium ion battery, but unfortunately nothing works with the new button cells + resistor set up.

Soooo, I’m clearly missing something. Did I miscalculate the required power output? Should I try adding a 4th button cell or using a different model of button cell or other type of small replaceable battery? I considered installing a 1/2AA like a LS14250 but unfortunately it will not fit in the P1.

Thoughts?

 

[PaperDoc]

How did you manage to get the case apart?

 

[ID10T]

If polarity is good perhaps the button cells don’t provide the amperage of the original battery?

I used a dropping resistor to drop 208 to 115 in an industrial box and I had to change resistor values from the calculated value because as you draw amperage the voltage drops further than calculated.

In my case, the meter showed 120v but when the (timer) was actually drawing current the voltage dropped much lower.

I’m not sure that is your problem, but I know using a dropping resistor is trickier than the theoretical calculated value.

 

[feek61]

I would double check your resistor and make sure it is the correct value.

 

[PicasoX]

Could I see a picture of the part with the gold pins that connect the power between the P2 and P1? I have a perfectly good Wand Phaser in brand new condition that doesn't work because one of the gold pins is missing, I'd like to find a replacement part and fix it if possible.

 

[PicasoX]

I'm also interested to see how you took things apart, I'll to replace the battery in mine eventually.

what are the Dimensions of the lipo?

 

[tcbinaflash]

How did you manage to get the case apart?

Well, it wasn’t easy. Precision cutting of the fused connections with a little careful prying. Very difficult not to damage the metal fins of the P1, but if you’re careful you can brush them down with 0000 steel wool or similar (don’t go too far or you’ll remove the silver finish and expose the underlying copper-plated alloy).

 

[Macnmike]

I have an option on a stock TWC Phaser with a dead battery. The owner claims that everything works when it is hardwired to a power source via the USB. I've been combing online for a way to replace the battery to no avail so far. Please and thank-you for any assistance. Best. Mike.

 

[Spritfire63]

Hey guys. I am getting ready to purchase a Phaser (at a ridiculously low price) with a battery that will not keep a charge. I would be interested in finding out if any of you finally got a battery replacement working and some details (other than VERY CAREFULLY pry it apart) on a successful disassembly. I know it is not easy but any details would help. I also take it that the entire units power source is in the P1?
Thanks
Todd

 

[PicasoX]

Hey guys. I am getting ready to purchase a Phaser (at a ridiculously low price) with a battery that will not keep a charge. I would be interested in finding out if any of you finally got a battery replacement working and some details (other than VERY CAREFULLY pry it apart) on a successful disassembly. I know it is not easy but any details would help. I also take it that the entire units power source is in the P1?
Thanks
Todd

Like how ridiculously low?

I'd love to find just a good P2 body, but all I really need is one little gold PIN,

I have 3, but the one I bought for a backup has a little broken PIN on the P2/P1 connection, see the picture a few posts above.

 

[STpropguy76]

Following as I need to replace a Bad battery in 1 of my phasers and a Gold Pin in another

 

[DrMichaelUSMC]

Could I see a picture of the part with the gold pins that connect the power between the P2 and P1? I have a perfectly good Wand Phaser in brand new condition that doesn't work because one of the gold pins is missing, I'd like to find a replacement part and fix it if possible.View attachment 1482448

I had the same problem and used a bit of solder attached where the former pin was. Yes, it will break off over time, but it's a good temporary fix that lasts a while.

 

[DrMichaelUSMC]

Could I see a picture of the part with the gold pins that connect the power between the P2 and P1? I have a perfectly good Wand Phaser in brand new condition that doesn't work because one of the gold pins is missing, I'd like to find a replacement part and fix it if possible.View attachment 1482448

I just used a tiny bit of solder shaped to replace the pin. It worked fine. Yes, it will eventually break off, but it's a good temporary fix.

 

[PicasoX]

I just used a tiny bit of solder shaped to replace the pin. It worked fine. Yes, it will eventually break off, but it's a good temporary fix.

I though of trying to solder s little piece of brass wire, can you show a picture so we can get an idea of how to do this?

 

[alexander1190]

Like how ridiculously low?

I'd love to find just a good P2 body, but all I really need is one little gold PIN,

I have 3, but the one I bought for a backup has a little broken PIN on the P2/P1 connection, see the picture a few posts above.

Nathan Styles makes fiberglass shells for P2 body:

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[PaulStanley]

How did you manage to get the case apart?

Use a T6 torque screw. That will get the small screws out. You will need like glasses fix type screw driver with a fine sharp head to remove the piece that covers the battery.


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[PaulStanley]

Use a T6 torque screw. That will get the small screws out. You will need like glasses fix type screw driver with a fine sharp head to remove the piece that covers the battery.


.

What I need to know is which polarity inside the communicator does up or down. When inserted, should the magnetic part be facing upwards or down words.

Also, one final question. Can you or has anyone tried charging their phaser on a flat magnetic charging pad as you would a phone and did you get it to work. One thing I wish that the communicator had was one direct plug in for a USB cable. A these stands take up room which I don't have

 

[JW Foust]

Use a T6 torque screw. That will get the small screws out. You will need like glasses fix type screw driver with a fine sharp head to remove the piece that covers the battery.


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OP is about the phaser. You're describing the communicator.