Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
I'm sure it's been brought up but could the buttons on the box be made of cast resin?
The theory about the buttons being made from the Yuma box is out there but I don't see any silver wear on the boxes. I do see however that cream colored mark which looks a lot like the color of casting resin.
The theory about the buttons being made from the Yuma box is out there but I don't see any silver wear on the boxes. I do see however that cream colored mark which looks a lot like the color of casting resin.
It's a good question
The one detail I've noticed is that the buttons are very sharp at the edges. Way more than any audio equipment buttons, and they have come off/been re-attached or moved. A lot of shots they are a little crooked as well.
If they were resin, I would think we'd see more damage from whatever chipped the red arrow? I made mine out of the same material as the ROTJ blasters, black acetal, Delrin
The one detail I've noticed is that the buttons are very sharp at the edges. Way more than any audio equipment buttons, and they have come off/been re-attached or moved. A lot of shots they are a little crooked as well.
If they were resin, I would think we'd see more damage from whatever chipped the red arrow? I made mine out of the same material as the ROTJ blasters, black acetal, Delrin
SCREAMINYELLOW
Member
So something is kinda throwing me off and I wanted to see what others thought…
I know most (including myself recently) believe the clamp card is more of a teal variant, as that is how it appears in the large majority or the photos. With that said, I noticed this while scrolling through my reference photos folder:
These two photos are obviously from the same exhibit on the same display stand (so aside from camera flash, should maintain “relatively” similar lighting conditions/temperatures), but one side appears teal and the other the more commonly found blue.
Could the difference in color be so simple as verdigris or something of the like? We can clearly see some sort of greenish patina in some of the archive/Smithsonian photos.
Anyways, just something to ponder. Curious to hear thoughts.
I know most (including myself recently) believe the clamp card is more of a teal variant, as that is how it appears in the large majority or the photos. With that said, I noticed this while scrolling through my reference photos folder:
These two photos are obviously from the same exhibit on the same display stand (so aside from camera flash, should maintain “relatively” similar lighting conditions/temperatures), but one side appears teal and the other the more commonly found blue.
Could the difference in color be so simple as verdigris or something of the like? We can clearly see some sort of greenish patina in some of the archive/Smithsonian photos.
Anyways, just something to ponder. Curious to hear thoughts.
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The clamp card I have has teal and blue edges.
SCREAMINYELLOW
Member
I think that would just about answer it then haha. Thanks!
The original boards have a blue paper core (FR2) with a green coating… depending on where the card was cut the boards get bluer as you get further into the core. So- the outside has more green-teal.
I say this as I am observing my own cut board.
The reference shown shows two sides of the board depending on the display. One is very clearly well stripped copper with the green burnished through down to the bluer core- and the other side is only partially burnished through the TIN coating- which has left the white looking striations once considered to be glue. And yes… warm vs cool lighting- direct or indirect sidelight- flash or no flash plays a huge part in the coloration.
Worth noting in those photos- all you may have to do to get the same color is unify the warm - cool color cast in photo edit
I say this as I am observing my own cut board.
The reference shown shows two sides of the board depending on the display. One is very clearly well stripped copper with the green burnished through down to the bluer core- and the other side is only partially burnished through the TIN coating- which has left the white looking striations once considered to be glue. And yes… warm vs cool lighting- direct or indirect sidelight- flash or no flash plays a huge part in the coloration.
Worth noting in those photos- all you may have to do to get the same color is unify the warm - cool color cast in photo edit
SCREAMINYELLOW
Member
This description honestly really helps a ton. Thank you for giving such a detailed explanation of the construction and other aspects.
SCREAMINYELLOW
Member
I had a feeling it was still lighting, but that alone didn’t explain just how drastic the difference was as other colors would’ve been impacted on a similar level. This certainly clears that up though, so thank you!
MojaveTrooper
Member
Happy Mother’s Day everyone!
Here’s another example. Both of these are teal PCBs but just turning the one at the tips of my fingers slightly changes the lighting in the same picture and makes it appear much darker
