Do you mean the diagram?
1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build
- Thread starter SteveStarkiller
- Start date
In the case of the CockPit "Cone" (technically a "conic section)
You would have to project the slope of sides of the cone (forward) in space to where they converge to one point.
The length, measured to that imaginary point is "S" (the Slant Height)
A number of years back I was working on an exhibit for the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum ( in DC).
We were making a 1/10 scale model of the Chandra Satellite.
even at 1/10 scale the tapered conic section was 9 feet long. Projected to the Point" or "Tip of the cone it was about 29 feet long.
We actually threw together a 30'-foot long beam compass. went out to the parking lot, taped down a large sheet of tyvek, and 3 of us wrangled a large arc with the compass. The pattern came out great. --Only off by 1" which was ok as I planned a 3" over-lap. The final material was thin gauge aluminium wrapped over a Metal and MFD superstructure. (not unlike some of your framing)
It's still on display suspended some 14 feet up in the air.
You would have to project the slope of sides of the cone (forward) in space to where they converge to one point.
The length, measured to that imaginary point is "S" (the Slant Height)
A number of years back I was working on an exhibit for the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum ( in DC).
We were making a 1/10 scale model of the Chandra Satellite.
even at 1/10 scale the tapered conic section was 9 feet long. Projected to the Point" or "Tip of the cone it was about 29 feet long.
We actually threw together a 30'-foot long beam compass. went out to the parking lot, taped down a large sheet of tyvek, and 3 of us wrangled a large arc with the compass. The pattern came out great. --Only off by 1" which was ok as I planned a 3" over-lap. The final material was thin gauge aluminium wrapped over a Metal and MFD superstructure. (not unlike some of your framing)
It's still on display suspended some 14 feet up in the air.
Last edited:
Hi Gang,
PART V: The Exterior Skin
I was finally able to fiberglass the lower section of the exterior skin
There is still LOTS of clean up to do but we're making progress!
Nice clean edges
I found center and aligned on the base
WOW... that looks strangely familiar
I have to create some mounting point for the skin to screw into
Both pieces married up
OVERHANG! That's beautiful sight. I'd rather there be more than less
Time to start cleaning up these edges
This weekend will include sanding the fiberglass smooth and hopefully the first layer of styrene
More to Follow!
PART V: The Exterior Skin
I was finally able to fiberglass the lower section of the exterior skin
There is still LOTS of clean up to do but we're making progress!
Nice clean edges
I found center and aligned on the base
WOW... that looks strangely familiar
I have to create some mounting point for the skin to screw into
Both pieces married up
OVERHANG! That's beautiful sight. I'd rather there be more than less
Time to start cleaning up these edges
This weekend will include sanding the fiberglass smooth and hopefully the first layer of styrene
More to Follow!
sorry, I missed the "wink" ...was viewing on my mobile...didn't know you were kidding.
I was wondering, if you might be having trouble adhering the plastic to the wood?
I have had that trouble too. For bigger surfaces, Like your fullsize stuff we had used industrial grade contact cement.
This stuff gets mixed with lacquer thinner or acetone (depending on the maker) and sprayed through a paint gun.
I learned to work with it in High-School as I worked at a place that made Camper, Trailers and RVs
This it what was used to put on the Fiber-Glass, metal or Plastic siding onto the frame of the RVs.
It is a bit of a pain to go to all the trouble of mixing and spraying. (it looks like silly string when sprayed on)
I was going to look into the type of contact cement we used for laminate countertops. That can be brushed or rolled on (or sprayed)
I've also been using barge cement on a leather work project. I was going to try it too. This is the toxic version (red can) which is what your cobbler uses to glue the soles of your shoes together. A big advantage is that it remains flexible.
It can be thinned though ...I do not know (yet) if the solvent will attack the styrene.
The Toxic version of Barge cement (Red can) works better than the newer, less toxic (Blue tube/can)
Fair Notice: the Toxic stuff is known to cause cancer in the state of California, fortunately you are based in Texas!
I was wondering, if you might be having trouble adhering the plastic to the wood?
I have had that trouble too. For bigger surfaces, Like your fullsize stuff we had used industrial grade contact cement.
This stuff gets mixed with lacquer thinner or acetone (depending on the maker) and sprayed through a paint gun.
I learned to work with it in High-School as I worked at a place that made Camper, Trailers and RVs
This it what was used to put on the Fiber-Glass, metal or Plastic siding onto the frame of the RVs.
It is a bit of a pain to go to all the trouble of mixing and spraying. (it looks like silly string when sprayed on)
I was going to look into the type of contact cement we used for laminate countertops. That can be brushed or rolled on (or sprayed)
I've also been using barge cement on a leather work project. I was going to try it too. This is the toxic version (red can) which is what your cobbler uses to glue the soles of your shoes together. A big advantage is that it remains flexible.
It can be thinned though ...I do not know (yet) if the solvent will attack the styrene.
The Toxic version of Barge cement (Red can) works better than the newer, less toxic (Blue tube/can)
Fair Notice: the Toxic stuff is known to cause cancer in the state of California, fortunately you are based in Texas!
BruceKenobi
Well-Known Member
Here is a sneak peak!!.....To answer the proverbial question: how do you turn-on/power-up/start-up The Falcon? the answer: "there's more than one way to skin a womp-rat"!
wow! really nice work!
Disney should have contract you guys to build the full-size stuff!
BTW SofaKing, you might be interested in this:
These guys make plastic film for adhering to glass / windows. Most, go on with a static cling or like tinted glass film used on car windows and autobody wraps
They have some films that are good for use as light-diffusers, back-lit graphics, as well as color tints and various geometric effects, chrome, silver & metallic finishes.
They have free samples ...which in themselves are often plenty big enough for most normal scaled spacecraft miniature projects
(perhaps not however for your gy-normous scales!)
Decorative Film Products | Decorative Films
1PVC frosted sheet
Disney should have contract you guys to build the full-size stuff!
BTW SofaKing, you might be interested in this:
These guys make plastic film for adhering to glass / windows. Most, go on with a static cling or like tinted glass film used on car windows and autobody wraps
They have some films that are good for use as light-diffusers, back-lit graphics, as well as color tints and various geometric effects, chrome, silver & metallic finishes.
They have free samples ...which in themselves are often plenty big enough for most normal scaled spacecraft miniature projects
(perhaps not however for your gy-normous scales!)
Decorative Film Products | Decorative Films
1PVC frosted sheet
IzzyMel
Sr Member
Worked on making the scaled down versions of the Dome Pan lights. 1/4 and 1/6 scale versions:
Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
I rushed to paint them and assemble them should have waited for the paint to completely dry. The 1/6 will need to be repainted. Oh well its a test anyways:
Panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
Panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
Dome panel lights by Izzy Mel, on Flickr
Now I just need them in red, blue, white, and yellow.
I rushed to paint them and assemble them should have waited for the paint to completely dry. The 1/6 will need to be repainted. Oh well its a test anyways:
Now I just need them in red, blue, white, and yellow.
Nice work Izzy!
I loved your 1/6 scale X-wing cockpit build.
I see you have since taken the plunge and come over to the "digital side"
Curious? what type of 3D printer are mainly using?
I loved your 1/6 scale X-wing cockpit build.
I see you have since taken the plunge and come over to the "digital side"
Curious? what type of 3D printer are mainly using?
IzzyMel
Sr Member
thanks. I use the Raise3D and CR 10 for large prints and the AnyCubic photon for the small very detail pieces
Ooh! I have had my eye on the Raise3D too!
It deserves all the kudoz it's been getting, not surprising considering who had a hand in developing it,
I've been lucky and have had access to so really nice hi-end 3D printers for the last 15 years or so.
It wasn't until recently that the Desktop 3D printers have gotten to where I may actually want one.
I'm considering the Formlabs latest model for small detailed stuff.
It deserves all the kudoz it's been getting, not surprising considering who had a hand in developing it,
I've been lucky and have had access to so really nice hi-end 3D printers for the last 15 years or so.
It wasn't until recently that the Desktop 3D printers have gotten to where I may actually want one.
I'm considering the Formlabs latest model for small detailed stuff.
BruceKenobi
Well-Known Member
So I tried to see the differences in the cockpit between Solo-Ep4-Ep5-Ep6-Ep7-Ep8, and there quite a few!! see for yourself:
BruceKenobi
Well-Known Member
Interesting take IzzyMel, now, after seeing them up close, I realized that Ep5-Ep6 are the SAME set, and that Ep7-Ep8 are based of the Ep5 set, so those four are pretty much the same, Solo has some details that you can throw it in the "that's lando's version" basket, and nothing to argue there, although I miss the 2 working screens in that iteration: on that is used by Han in ESB when searching for systems, even tough we never see it on full front, and another one, that has dissapeared by the time of EP4 right next to the pilots seat, that is a sad miss. Ep4 is a puzzle is different from all other sets, and has less lights.
Something I found for SofaKing to check is this (be sure to see it on mobile phone, as computers don't give you the full effect): Star Wars 360: View The Force Awakens Set Panoramas at StarWars.com - UPDATED 4/5 | StarWars.com
Hi Gang,
Check out EP 1 on our new YouTube Channel "...What a Piece of Junk.."
Sorry for the poor sound quality. I'm still figuring all this editing out...
OK... Time to get back to work!
Check out EP 1 on our new YouTube Channel "...What a Piece of Junk.."
Sorry for the poor sound quality. I'm still figuring all this editing out...
OK... Time to get back to work!
Last edited:
Awesome as usual. My carpenter uses a polyurethane glue, superstrong stuff, much better than superglue.
Hi RPF,
Wishing you all a very Happy Holiday, Merry Christmas and a Safe and Happy New Year! : )
Wishing you all a very Happy Holiday, Merry Christmas and a Safe and Happy New Year! : )
Hi Gang,
Time for that "End of the Holiday Weekend Update" - in 5 Parts
Part I: The Exterior Skin
As you all know I created a fiberglass skin to go around the exterior of the 1/4 scale cockpit - time to trim it up!
I marked the area to be removed
After making a pass with the band saw (tough to get pics)
I placed the smooth edge on the back side against the corridor ring and taped into position
Time to sand / file away all this overhang!
I slowly removed material and taped the edges flush as I went around the body
Taping as I go
Nice and smooth! All the edges are plumb
I decided to butt the skin against the corridor ring - this would have added too much overall width to the skin
The lower skin is going to be fun...
I HAVE to sand down some of the underside areas of the skin so it sits flush before I can add any styrene
Part II Below
Time for that "End of the Holiday Weekend Update" - in 5 Parts
Part I: The Exterior Skin
As you all know I created a fiberglass skin to go around the exterior of the 1/4 scale cockpit - time to trim it up!
I marked the area to be removed
After making a pass with the band saw (tough to get pics)
I placed the smooth edge on the back side against the corridor ring and taped into position
Time to sand / file away all this overhang!
I slowly removed material and taped the edges flush as I went around the body
Taping as I go
Nice and smooth! All the edges are plumb
I decided to butt the skin against the corridor ring - this would have added too much overall width to the skin
The lower skin is going to be fun...
I HAVE to sand down some of the underside areas of the skin so it sits flush before I can add any styrene
Part II Below
PART II: Main Window, Corridor Ring and the Nose
Added more filler/primer to the nose
Main window finally saw some primer
LOTS of filler to add
And the corridor ring as been fighting me every step of the way!
UGH
PART III Below
Added more filler/primer to the nose
Main window finally saw some primer
LOTS of filler to add
And the corridor ring as been fighting me every step of the way!
UGH
PART III Below
Similar threads
