Aw thanks Rafa! What he said: that pilot looks amazing. You really are making an incredible build from scratch. Outstanding!
1/24 X-Wing near 100% from scratch
- Thread starter Moska
- Start date
Happy New Year, Rafa!
Pilot looks amazing! Looking forward to your progress!
I'm so happy.
Side Note: Does anybody recognize what kind of seat the designers used?
Pilot looks amazing! Looking forward to your progress!
I'm so happy.
Side Note: Does anybody recognize what kind of seat the designers used?
jawsmodels
Sr Member
Sensational Rafa.
Just gets better & better.
Your like a 3D Printing Machine.
Just gets better & better.
Your like a 3D Printing Machine.
Not trying / going to hijack the thread - it's a VERY odd looking seat. Especailly the way the shoulder supports go all the way to the head rest.
OK... Back to our regularly scheduled program.
Happy new year Rafa,
With the sculpting skills you have, I wouldn't of been suprised if your pilots face looked like Luke as well.
I am in awe of your talent sir.
Just outstanding
Gag
With the sculpting skills you have, I wouldn't of been suprised if your pilots face looked like Luke as well.
I am in awe of your talent sir.
Just outstanding
Gag
joberg
Legendary Member
Happy New Year to you too! So now, no longer happy to tease us with your incredible model-making skills, you're sculpting a mighty fine pilot from scratch:facepalm...that's it, I quit Naw, kidding of course. That X-Wing is going to kick major behind: keep up the excellent work and eager to see the next episode!
Naw, kidding of course. That X-Wing is going to kick major behind: keep up the excellent work and eager to see the next episode!crackerjazz
Sr Member
Hi, Rafa, your updates are always a surprise! : ) Do you wet/soften the milliput with anything? Whenever I sculpt I tend to mess up some area that I've already completed. What's your technique and how do you make it so smooth?
Moska
Sr Member
Hi crackerjazz.
My first advice is, once you have a fully finished area, let it to harden and don't touch the piece until the next day. I know this means a delay in the work, but it's the best way to preserve the job already done. That's why I like to work on separate parts, while one leg is hardening, I can work in the other. :angel
Surely Milliput isn't the best modeling clay, but it's the one I 'm used to work.
I think the most important when working with this clay is to have time to work on it two or three hours. Why? because the putty behaves very differently as it cures.
In the first step, with freshly mixed clay, I make the basic volumes and let spend 15-20 minutes. After that, I start to make more complex shapes modeling the putty with different tools and, when I have the desired shapes and reliefs, I softened all by combing the piece repeatedly with a very soft brush dampened with water. Finally, once I finish the job with the brush, I put the piece under the tap and let the water fall on it with some pressure to clean the remains of putty and definitely soften the whole piece.
An hour after this, the putty has hardened enough to handle it with care and can continue shaping the piece on his already smooth surface.
As the putty hardens increasingly, you can gradually add more details, such as small wrinkles on clothes, pressing on the putty with the right tool to the shape you want.
Finally, you can also soften your pieces when the putty has hardened completely, rubbing with steel wool. But of course, this should only be done on parts without small details because you would lose it.
All the little details are added in different stages and layers over the fully hardened main piece.
I hope my explanation ( :facepalm ) would be useful.
Thanks for following my project.
Rafa
My first advice is, once you have a fully finished area, let it to harden and don't touch the piece until the next day. I know this means a delay in the work, but it's the best way to preserve the job already done. That's why I like to work on separate parts, while one leg is hardening, I can work in the other. :angel
Surely Milliput isn't the best modeling clay, but it's the one I 'm used to work.
I think the most important when working with this clay is to have time to work on it two or three hours. Why? because the putty behaves very differently as it cures.
In the first step, with freshly mixed clay, I make the basic volumes and let spend 15-20 minutes. After that, I start to make more complex shapes modeling the putty with different tools and, when I have the desired shapes and reliefs, I softened all by combing the piece repeatedly with a very soft brush dampened with water. Finally, once I finish the job with the brush, I put the piece under the tap and let the water fall on it with some pressure to clean the remains of putty and definitely soften the whole piece.
An hour after this, the putty has hardened enough to handle it with care and can continue shaping the piece on his already smooth surface.
As the putty hardens increasingly, you can gradually add more details, such as small wrinkles on clothes, pressing on the putty with the right tool to the shape you want.
Finally, you can also soften your pieces when the putty has hardened completely, rubbing with steel wool. But of course, this should only be done on parts without small details because you would lose it.
All the little details are added in different stages and layers over the fully hardened main piece.
I hope my explanation ( :facepalm ) would be useful.
Thanks for following my project.
Rafa
Moska
Sr Member
Hello friends.
A small update ...
I've placed the tools (data cylinders) in the pocket of my pilot.
I made them by lathing some small iron nails with the help of my mini-drill and some small iron files. First I tried using my mini-lathe, but has no enough speed for turning iron. I also tried to make them in aluminum, but it's too dim to make as thin parts.
I have also placed the ribbon was missing in the sweatbond and, finally, I made the boot soles. As you can see from the photos, the operation is very simple: stick thin sheets of putty and once hardened, sanding the perimeter and properly thinned.
Here I put several views of my fully finished pilot.
Thanks for looking.
Rafa
A small update ...
I've placed the tools (data cylinders) in the pocket of my pilot.
I made them by lathing some small iron nails with the help of my mini-drill and some small iron files. First I tried using my mini-lathe, but has no enough speed for turning iron. I also tried to make them in aluminum, but it's too dim to make as thin parts.
I have also placed the ribbon was missing in the sweatbond and, finally, I made the boot soles. As you can see from the photos, the operation is very simple: stick thin sheets of putty and once hardened, sanding the perimeter and properly thinned.
Here I put several views of my fully finished pilot.
Thanks for looking.
Rafa
3d-builder
Sr Member
That sculpt on that is just beautiful amazing job.....WOW!:thumbsup
