3D printed Starcraft 2 Marine armor *pic heavy*

Nazza84

New Member
Hello there! I've been always amazed by the work of the very talented community on this forum, and as MWiggs (he's making a fabulous, fantastic, amazing, wonderful armor: go see it!! http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=239205) I've never thinked about making one myself before instantly falling in love for the SC2 marine armor assembled in the game trailer video; on a summer holiday I've seen Atelier Fantastic'Art making-of shootings for their SC2 armors (link: facebook album) and suddenly felt like I could go and try something similar, so I bought a polystirene box and tried to sculpt the thigh piece, wich is one of the less difficult pieces.

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After some size calculations, with the cutting iron and the help of a projector I've managed to roughly cut the box to the size I need...

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but the result were sooo baaaad. That was no good for my skills... Well, because I lack them! So I've put the project aside.

After some time I decided I'd try the pepakura way; this too, of course, was a new thing to me: so I've rushed and didn't read all that was to be read, didn't make or get a good 3D model, didn't manually unfold the model and got dozens of paper sheets lying around my floor.

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Of course I didn't read the part "NEVER USE STANDARD 85gr/squaremeter PAPER" wich is on every Pepakura guide, so after some hours of scissors and glue work everything looked like this:

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UGH.

Well, I was so enthusiast even with that result that next day I bought some heavier paper.

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A LOTTA HEAVIER.

Well, this first post is getting longer than needed so let's skip some steps wich had me applying layers and layers of resin, from this...

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...to this.

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When I started using Dremel to cut details the whole thing started failing apart, so with much sorrow I throw it into our cellar, where it still stays. That last photo was from 2012. Foam forming? I wasn't so confident anymore on my skills so I didn't even try.

After a short time 3D printers were starting to get around the world, so I got interested in them; I had plans on using them for my build, but when the first multi-part prints I did had little bends on the side facing the build plate I started thinking about making a giant gantry. Yes, thermic retraction was the thing responsible for all the bends in the lowermost layers, and with huge prints could be an even bigger issue.

But I'm like a mad scientist so I don't care, I just go forth and try: that's why I've ended up making an ultra-low-cost 3D printer capable of nice detailing!

IMG_20160323_123522.jpg

(that's me and some test prints made over the last months)

The gantry has a build volume of 1000x1000x1000 millimiters and solves the issue #1: lack of sculpting skills, my machine will do this for me!

(why this big? Torso piece! I don't know if I'll print it in one piece, but better be safe than sorry)

Anything, anyway, has pros and cons. PLA is cheap and doesn't warp that much, but is hard as hell to sand; weight is mostly what makes it not so good for this. I'll be looking for some lighter materials, so if any of you know of some lightweight filament please let me know! Of course not everything will be 3D printed, what comes out better in its real form (metal plates, bolts, screws, etc) will be used.

Any 3D printed part must be worked after print; syntered resin must make a UV light "bath", powder prints must be soaked into a hardening resin, ABS prints have the nice acetone vapor smoothing, PLA has nothing but sanding and priming with something like XTC3D (as far as I know). Given the size of what I was about to print, fused filament was the only available choice; cheaper and easier. Now that I got the printer, I had to make the models!

Now, just to let you know how mad someone can be: I've got near-zero skills on 3D modeling, but I've used Autodesk Inventor during university courses (I'm studying computer since, and for some years I've studied civil engineering. Let me give a huge thank you to Autodesk for offering students some licenses!), so I re-opened it and started drawing. Actually it makes working with joints a lot easier!

Let's say that in a couple days I've managed to develop this

photo_2016-05-05_12-24-13.jpg

into this

assieme stivale.pngassieme stivale wireframe.png

wich is actually made of 4 main parts: boot tip, boot heel, inner shoe, shin piece. I've started printing to get a feel of what it could be like walking in it and what I should modify:

IMG_20160413_134134.jpgIMG_20160413_134208.jpg

...and the weight popped up. Can't see from these photos, but 20% infill made a damn heavy boot (there's some serious uplift inside) unfortunately there is some wobbling on the Z-axis, I'll fix it later.

Here's a print job test just for the lulz:

IMG_20160429_111922.jpgIMG_20160505_124346.jpg

I've left some space to add all the short pipings later between inner shoe and heel.

Now I'm working on the thigh piece, up next will be the "hydraulic underwear" part but I'm researching the flexible pipes now, MWiggs found the perfect solution (thermal insulation pipes with a hose appearence, very flexible stuff) but I can't find anything similar here in Rome. Damn, I wish we had the hardware superstores I see in many Hollywood movies!

photo_2016-05-05_12-52-51.jpg

Hoping this time I won't fail, I salute you and will post again soon!

P.s. one last photo for the shin piece coming out of the printer right now:
photo_2016-05-05_12-59-43.jpg
 
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WOAH! That is one big dang 3D printer! Wish I had access to something like that! Great work so far! I'm excited to see another SC build going on. I'm really curious to see how much the entire thing weighs when you're all done with it. I can guess it won't be light tho... My pistol has (for the most part) 5% fill and 3 layer wall thickness (about .6mm) and that little guy weighs in at almost 4lbs. (1.8kg for y'all over seas). Keep it up! Can't wait to see more progress on this! Don't give up!!
 
Have to give you props for your dedication to making this armor, and for building that giant 3D printer. Really cool.

Hopefully you find a way to get around the weight issue cause I want to see this work out for you. Maybe if you get comfortable down the road, you can do a 3D print/foam hybrid and you'll cut down the weight.

Good luck!
 
Thanks MWiggs, given your mastership with your a-m-a-z-i-n-g armor reading your appraisal really made my day!

Yeah, three shells give a lot of stiffness but add a lot of weight. One single shell will never be enough, and so I'm going for two shells. 5% infill as you did, but instead of a .4mm nozzle (that, if I do remember correctly, should be the one mounted on your Replicator 2) I'm using a .6mm nozzle, so in the end we should be having the same perimeter thickness.
The problem we're both facing is that the more you print an object in separate parts, the more shells you get, thus more materials and so more weight; that's also one big reason I try not to split the armor in many pieces.
(btw, if you'll ever need something big printed, drop me a pm)
I'll bring in a body scale to measure up how heavy everything comes out, I already know I'll have to reprint the boot!

As crazy as I am I'll show you a crazy little idea I'd like to use for the suit: remember these?
batteries.PNG
Well, since I've found these...
photo_2016-05-05_19-31-37.jpg
...I think I'll put there the Li-Po batteries with some ultra-bright leds, thus making the suit power supply exactly as it is in the real one!
(I couldn't find any blueprint of the suit batteries, I think I'll have to use screencaps)

But this will come on a later stage, if you ask why Li-Po batteries it's because I want to use server fans for the shoulder exhausts!
photo_2016-05-05_19-45-58.jpg
(MADNESS! LOUDNESS! 1.8 amps... damn!)
The cfm value of the fans should make the little fins I'll place inside the cones shake like the "real" ones!
(I suggest you try the same for your armor, they're really cool!)
I've powered one up on the table, it literally flew over to the floor!
 
collinE83 Thanks man! Maybe I'll go for foam on some pieces, at least the ones that are hidden to plain sight (arms for example, but not forearms) because I want to make it look close to the original design as I can (and I already have to rework the shin, it's too "slim" in proportion to the original). I'm also about to work on the shoulder issue (MWiggs surely knows what I'm talking about) with a little trick I have in mind to keep the (human) arm close to the chest, while keeping the model as similar to the original as I can.
Not to mention the knee! That damn thing in the original model is like a tin can! I'm working it on a separate part to make it comfortable to walk in.
 
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Thanks MWiggs, given your mastership with your a-m-a-z-i-n-g armor reading your appraisal really made my day!

Yeah, three shells give a lot of stiffness but add a lot of weight. One single shell will never be enough, and so I'm going for two shells. 5% infill as you did, but instead of a .4mm nozzle (that, if I do remember correctly, should be the one mounted on your Replicator 2) I'm using a .6mm nozzle, so in the end we should be having the same perimeter thickness.
The problem we're both facing is that the more you print an object in separate parts, the more shells you get, thus more materials and so more weight; that's also one big reason I try not to split the armor in many pieces.
(btw, if you'll ever need something big printed, drop me a pm)
I'll bring in a body scale to measure up how heavy everything comes out, I already know I'll have to reprint the boot!

As crazy as I am I'll show you a crazy little idea I'd like to use for the suit: remember these?
View attachment 621913
Well, since I've found these...
View attachment 621914
...I think I'll put there the Li-Po batteries with some ultra-bright leds, thus making the suit power supply exactly as it is in the real one!
(I couldn't find any blueprint of the suit batteries, I think I'll have to use screencaps)

But this will come on a later stage, if you ask why Li-Po batteries it's because I want to use server fans for the shoulder exhausts!
View attachment 621917
(MADNESS! LOUDNESS! 1.8 amps... damn!)
The cfm value of the fans should make the little fins I'll place inside the cones shake like the "real" ones!
(I suggest you try the same for your armor, they're really cool!)
I've powered one up on the table, it literally flew over to the floor!

Thanks for the kind words! I wouldn't exactly call my work "masterful" as it's really the first time I've ever attempted something like this, but I really appreciate the compliment!

Sounds like you've got a good plan going forward! I really wanted to do those power cores too! Had 'em planned out and everything... Unfortunately time and practicality took over and I decided that's one detail I can't add this time around. I'm really excited to see that develop tho! And on the up side, Those really are my power cores! I stash the 3 battery packs right behind the removable front access port. Those fans look great too - I'm using PC fans powered by 8 D-cell batteries (12v) but they don't move as much air as I was hoping.. However they are totally silent which on one hand is nice so they're not screaming in my ear all day but on the other I'd love to be able to hear them from the outside of the suit to add some realism! What power source are you using for yours exactly?

Thanks for the offer for large scale prints, I will definitely keep you in mind if I need anything of that scale! I can't imagine shipping costs from Rome to the US are going to be cheap... However I've never seen a printer of that scale before so I may have to take you up on that - Thanks!
 
WOW! I am impressed with all of this. The printer looks like an excellent tool. It is great to see one so large. I also really love the 3D models you are making. Any chance you would be willing to share them in the future?
 
clonesix it's a box, about 126cm per side (or 50 inches); four screws with a motor each move the build plate up and down, while X and Y are belt driven with some looong belts (the X one is 8.5 meters long). Two extruders (actually 1, because one got clogged by dust), one for perimeters and one for the infill, it helps with large prints who usually chew more than a 1kg spool. With the help of a friend I've opened a YT channel where I show it to help everyone who wants to build a huge reprap with less than half the price of a Replicator 2, wich is this one.
CLOTHAR Thanks! For the models can't say for sure now, but I'd surely love to. There's a lot of work (and, mainly, re-work) to be done on them! I'm keeping notes for a huge pdf to be written in the future on how to build and assemble everything. I'm already making them "one size fits them all" thanks to velcro straps and adjustable joints.
MWiggs heh, shipping rates are a real pain, but I can ask some friends who send a lot of stuff to the US which vector they usually choose! (and helping you with your build? would be my pleasure!) For the battery part: I've put my eyes on the same cells that are found inside some laptop batteries or RC battery packs, they should have both a lot of juice and a lot of amps.
Also, what do you think of this? http://petapixel.com/2015/12/05/atm...-like-a-tiny-fog-machine-for-your-camera-bag/
Could be a nice addition to the shoulder exhausts! (mineral oil is what does the fog, so if there's a way to spray it without a can... I'm thinking about coffee machine water pumps)
 
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@clonesix it's a box, about 126cm per side (or 50 inches); four screws with a motor each move the build plate up and down, while X and Y are belt driven with some looong belts (the X one is 8.5 meters long). Two extruders (actually 1, because one got clogged by dust), one for perimeters and one for the infill, it helps with large prints who usually chew more than a 1kg spool. With the help of a friend I've opened a YT channel where I show it to help everyone who wants to build a huge reprap with less than half the price of a Replicator 2, wich is this one.


THAT is 1meter X 1 meter build platform! MIND = Blown!
 
Hi,
Great build on the Marine and the huge printer. :thumbsup
Some thoughts regarding the weight issue.
Not sure how thick your parts are, but have you consider making parts thinner, but add in ribs and boss for strength around edges and critical load areas?
 
clonesix well the torso piece could be near that big, so... :D
RacerMachX Thanks! I'm making them 4-5mm thick, that's mainly because I emboss the lines between plates on them (when Inventor lets me do the emboss command without failing -_-°), usually I go inside by 2mm and that leaves 2-3 mm. Anyway, using only 2 perimeters as wall thickness with 5% infill the results are almost the same...

Uhm, wait, you made me think about radiuses. Since even with 4 mm I'll always have some space between inner wall and outer wall if I make the parts thicker the inner wall will have a shorter diameter - thus making it smaller, and such making it lighter! How I didn't think about that before? 5% infill is so low on value that even if doing so will add some more infill it will be still less filament than having a "thin" piece! I'll have Slic3r running shortly for some tests. I owe you one!
 
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I'd like to share my early drawings on the crotch part if some of you guys have some suggestions about it.

drawings002.jpgdrawings003.jpg

I think most of the beauty of this suit is the hydraulic part, wich gives a feeling of industrial machinery, hence I'm trying to copy all the original pipings, valves, etc. - how you'd suspend it between the legs? I was thinking of using a classic nylon strap cage around my torso, onto wich attach some parts like the chest - but if there is all this piping I'm starting to guess if I can use the pipe themselves to keep the piece attached to me. After all they run tightly on the hips...

Now for the pipes. MWiggs found a great solution with elastomer insulation pipes, very light, flexible and looking alike the real ones; the ones I've found tend to get little wrinkles, and such I'm looking for more ideas; I'm thinking about standard foam insulation pipes with an heat-shrinking electrical insulator over it, it costs more but should avoid wrinkles... but I don't know if they would wear out after some hundred flexes.
 
This is all so cool. That printer is incredible. I am an old school sculptor but I gotta say I am coming around to appreciating the 3-d printer stuff. Very cool build. Keep the updates coming.
 
This is all so cool. That printer is incredible. I am an old school sculptor but I gotta say I am coming around to appreciating the 3-d printer stuff. Very cool build. Keep the updates coming.

Thanks! Well, this update isn't one of the "I'm getting some progress!" ones: the print came out quite good, and really really light on weight (yet sturdy):

photo_2016-05-10_13-58-54.jpg

but unfortunately it seems that I lack skills also on proportions:

photo_2016-05-10_14-02-23.jpg

(grey and light blue because I changed spools when I was about to leave the lab, for example before going home for some sleep).

Things I've learned:

> 3mm supports are strong enough but when they meld to the item they're a pain to remove. Really. Maybe because I'm using a .6mm nozzle, and when supports are too close they could get attached to the model, when they shouldn't. Or at least, if they do, they should be easily detachable.

> Too much supports with such a lightweight will tear some vulnerable parts of the item when you remove them. And by removing such strong supports, I mean removing them by hammer and screwdriver. Yes, it's quite butchering it, but usually it works without issue. This time it didn't and some parts got removed.

> Again, sometimes too much dense supports are simply too much hard to remove. The ones on the inside part of the knee are still there.

> Printing big is okay but if it means having a painful time removing all the supports it's better to split the pieces in two and then glue them back together. Thermal retraction and bed hills could be issues here but maybe some filler will help.

> Proportions: trying to cover the human upper heel by adding a piece of cupola covering it totally wasted the proportion of the shin lower back curve. Damn it's totally different from the original, I'll have to rework everything. Never mind, it's a chance to make it better (lateral "bullets" on the shoe weren't exactly the same of the original model)

> Size: it's small. I'll have to increase size on everything, this time I'll use parametric calculations so I can let everyone size it to his/her foot size.

And now back to the drawing board >_>
 
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Would it be possible to saw, sand, or dremel off the support material? This might be a little less destructive than the ol' hammer and chisel method.

Even if it is small, it is looking bloody marvellous.

When I do 3D modelling, I have a model human file that is sized to match me. Then I import different 3D models, to make sure I get the appropriate size before I build. Could come in handy when trying to get your proportions right.

Keep it coming!
 
Hey Nazza84, I'm impresses with the detail and size of your printer. I too am building a Terran Marine suit. Here is a pic of the C14 Gauss Rifle.
View attachment 624993

WOAH! That's a really wonderful piece, so much detailing and polishing work! Great job! Please show something of your armor! :D

Would it be possible to saw, sand, or dremel off the support material? This might be a little less destructive than the ol' hammer and chisel method.

Even if it is small, it is looking bloody marvellous.

When I do 3D modelling, I have a model human file that is sized to match me. Then I import different 3D models, to make sure I get the appropriate size before I build. Could come in handy when trying to get your proportions right.

Keep it coming!

Eheh thanks mate, I really appreciate it! I'd like to use the same "human reference model" technique but I don't know how to easily import that into Inventor nor how to have one... I've seen the free "MakeHuman" Blender fork but didn't studied it enough to make any use of it, maybe it's time to study it a little further! About the tools: I've tried with Dremel cutting blades and sanding heads, but all I got was melting the plastic. Crappy BQ filament? I don't know, but it could be worth to try another supplier.

BTW if I did some studies on the SC2 trailer and not only on the renderings I may have noticed earlier that the spacing between the plates isn't so large and deep as I did on my shin, so here's another improvement I have to do!

The actual pieces I've printed will make for a nice umbrella stand! :D
 
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