Not actual outfit progress but wanted to throw this in the mix. Thinking along the lines of Adam's style, I found this bellhop jacket. Mandarin collar but can double down as a limited clipped lapel. The garish buttons and the red internal collar add some ornamentation to the crisp lines of a very minimalist jacket. (sorry for the poor lighting) I tried 3 button and all 4. Very good look with pretty much my entire set of shirts and most of my pants.

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The wife said she will likely steal it for an over the shoulder coat. Always a compliment if she takes my stuff even when she tells me in advance.

I am thinking this could combine with the long coat to complete something like this:

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Just a bump today. I would have had some progress pics but I sewed the hat brim on upside down and just finished taking the seam ripper to it and am now back to alignment..... sigh. Bicorn work.
 
OK, and away we go. I resewed the hat cap to the brim. My process was to first spray-glue my fabric to the plastic and wire mesh brim pattern I had already cut. I also made a second pattern from the first for backup. I layered fabric on the front facing and wrapped the edges. I then waited for it to dry and placed a smaller cut version on the back to cover the folded edges. After drying, I cut out the center cap area but left a ring of fabric tabs to tack into the inside of the cap.

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I then covered the cap with fabric but sewed on this section to avoid glue in the area my head would be. Remember, I took my cap portion from the grass hat I got at a garage sale.

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I then placed the cap on the brim and pushed the cloth tabs up inside it and sewed it in place.

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And of course, it was upside down, which meant the clearly cut edge fabric would be showing in the upturned front of the hat. I unstitched, sighed a lot, ranted in another thread (venting about inconsequential things), and sewed it on correctly.

I then worked in some minor folds to test everything but could not stitch it to stay because I need to paint it black.

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And now it is black and fuming away in the remaining sun of today. When the paint is fully cured, I will stitch the front to the back at the edge, like Adam's.... (below)

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Oh, and at least once, I forgot to place the fabric at a diagonal, like the grain on Adam's hat.
 
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Little stumble but not a crushing blow. My design misjudged the wrap distance on the side of the head. The hat needed to be painted before close so I had not noted, yet, that when front and back are stitched together at the sides, the overall width drops drastically, as does the shape.

This means my current hat will not be stitched as it presents correctly from a front view. However, I will continue to pattern until I get the true flat pattern necessary to recreate the hat from all angles to provide it here in the thread resources.


Below is my pre-paint, then pose, then painted and stitched, then cry, then remove stitch and pose.

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The sizes needed to match are 2.0 (twice width of face) and .9 to edge from eye. Current UNSTITCHED is 1.8 and .7. After stitching, 1.4 and .7. But this hat will certainly not be wasted effort and can do front only poses in a pinch. More pattern work in progress.

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Random find. I think I have a match on these sunglasses:

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OLIVER PEOPLES LYNES SUNGLASSES​

100957 362 Polarized

Not positive on that model number as it may include a color.

Here is the same in black

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My research on Mich's hat fabrics does not so much pinpoint one material but does seem to indicate both of her normal fabrics. It again seems to point to Adam owning two hats. Lighting is always a possible issue but the up close and high def pictures show two different fabrics, one ribbed and parallel and the other strongly two directional crosshatch. The ribbed one is pronounced and as the fabric goes over a fold, the ribs stand out. The ribbed hat is darker black and presents with notable holes in the weave but extremely consistent with no fuzz at all, no pilling. The second, very smooth, very gray, very inconsistent weave (like natural linen) looks cross hatch, very smooth over folds without ribbing.

When researching Mich Dulce's go to fabrics, you get both. One is abaca plant fiber based, tight weave, Sinamay (or super sinamay or a blend) which presents as very smooth at about 5 feet away, like a nice wool/polyester blend suit jacket fabric does (crosshatch natural linen looking weave). The second is the same exact abaca plant based Sinamay but is woven by the local tribesman in their customary loom weave, not mechanical production. This is called T'nakal and prior to very recent developments, only came in predetermined, handwoven patterns. These patterns are world famous as are the weavers who get their patterns from dreams and are the actual source for the term "Dream weavers". Sorry if I covered any of this prior in the thread. Recent production requests from Mich have opened up a base color and no color production of these loom weaves. This is far more sturdy version of abaca and not unlike some straw hat woven materials. Not crepe like nor light in presentation but strong like whipcord or denim. This T'nakal is very ribbed and not at all crosshatched. Here are the two as raw fabric:

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And here is how they present in her creations:

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Currently, I am leaning to the T'nalak ribbed look but I have a strong feeling he owns one of each.
 
Oh and here are some close ups showing both fabric types:

smooth and near invisible, if any, texture



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and then severely ribbed

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and Mich's donation hat is ribbed:

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So much so that it affects the signature from adam.

These last two just clinch it. The first is the ribbed version, still on the hat stand after creation. The second is Adam in a live performance. They just don't present as the same hat.

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Lighting and aging are a beast for replica making but these two pics seem to present two totally different stiffnesses, shape, color, pattern and texture.
 
Happy Birthday Stuart Leslie Goddard born this day 1954
So, I took the tricorn to town and went by several stores going about chores. My son was cracking up the whole trip. In a very short time I was greeted by a Shriner's clown, who I believe was sincerely attempting to recruit me for the circus (totally real, unbelievable but thus is life), was invited to do millenery for an upcoming old English period play (not the clown and different location) and inspired an all Adam video sharing convo at the pub (not me sharing the videos and I don't even drink nor, coinc, do I smoke). But all told I think we had at least 8 people watching Goody Two Shoes in celebration of his birthday. Thank you for the early morning post about the date today.
 
I live in constant wonder that more people don't die every day from stupidity. This is a tomato. This is a red rubber ball. Choose one to put on your sandwich. The correct answer is neither but I am not focused on taste here so we are talking about the rubber ball eating crowd. I have asked numerous professionals to identify the guns that Adam uses in the Stand and Deliver album cover. I have found several American history guns that were close enough to modify a match but were not a match. I also figured that they would likely be English or French and not American. One very helpful person put me on to Dixiegunworks.com and gave me his opinion of which historic gun might suffice but also told me he looked it up first by comparing them to IMFDB.org. So, I take a little trip over to Dixie and find nothing that matches. Not a big deal, at least he tried and he did provide resources for my search. But, let's talk about IMFDB. This will likely end up in me posting to venting about inconsequential things. Looking up "flintlock" garners a beautiful page that caters seriously to non American flintlocks, weird and biased (maybe just not their interest) but there is a function on the main website where it says which movies used these file names... which guns are where. By clicking on a movie name and then finding references to your gun of choice you can find numerous pictures of in-scene guns that do not match at all but even contain text like, "light dragoon seen here, circled" but an officer's pistol is circled and no light dragoon is in the picture, at all. So, I just started looking picture by picture. Statements like, "Here are two pictures of the same gun, from different angles". Neither picture showed the titled gun and the two pictures were not even the same incorrect gun in each picture. It's like they just guessed. One clearly has a brass ring retainer around the barrel end and the other does not and neither has the butt plate and both are just wood handles.... brown wood handles, no shockingly large metal inlayed butt plate. A two piece non matching set of guns, that are not even modified versions of the listed/named gun. Each movie listed does this. It is like 60 percent are incorrect and I am not a flintlock historian but a completely different shape and parts? It is nearly useless. The only part of the IMFDB resources that was valuable info was the original list of flintlock guns. And on that exasperated note, I would say that Adam's guns (he seems to have two different guns) are one of these, possibly: The Russian Calvary M1809 in his right hand and either the Brithish heavy dragoon or the British 1756 Light Dragoon in his left. Of the buttplates, I think Light Dragoon but am still looking for 360 views. I will post comparison pics as I find, worthwhile, similar angles. But I swear, I could do without all of the inaccurate advice given on imfdb.

 
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Correction 11-5-23...I thought to claim a direct match on the left hand gun: British Light Dragoon. These changed slightly per year but the one currently available from Military Heritage Arms looks to be a near perfect match as seen in this review video (but is not, newer post about a reproduction version of the British Sea Service Flintlock -9 inch short barrel version later in thread):



 
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