ANOTHER Blade Runner Blaster- ARE YOU MAD??

[Noeland]

How do you think it would work to try and blue it, then go at it with some steel wool? I've only ever blues a gun once in my life, 15 years ago, and it was a store bought bluing kit. It was a disaster. I'd hope that bluinf kits for home were better now-a-days. :lol
Njc--------------

 

[Dann]

Hey Doc, can you show us how you did the "probe"?

Ooh, also, do you think the trigger guard could be easily reshaped?

 

[the DOCTOR]

<div class='quotetop'>(Dann @ Oct 6 2006, 05:00 AM) [snapback]1332897[/snapback]</div>

Hey Doc, can you show us how you did the "probe"?

Ooh, also, do you think the trigger guard could be easily reshaped?
[/b]

A picture says a thousand words:

And reshaping the guard should be relatively easy, I'm going to print out a sized picture of the prop, and go from there.

 

[Dann]

So did you have to alter the actual bolt at all? And is that just a brass bar?

Keep us updated on how the trigger guard goes.

BTW - What caliber rounds does it hold? .38? .357? .44???

 

[Noeland]

44 special is the caliber of the real 5 shot charter arms bulldog the gun is built on.

 

[boodha]

Hey Doc

Damn fine build-up. Your pictures are great too, thanks for posting.

One dumb question- You say you soldered some stuff on this kit. How did you do this? Doesn't this metal melt easily?

Just curious
Thanx again

 

[the DOCTOR]

Oh yeah, solders with a standard electronics iron, with five core solder, but it melts really quick, so you have to be careful.

I'll get round to sorting out the trigger guard, and get some colour on it soon, but sometimes real life gets in the way of important models.

<div class='quotetop'>(Dann @ Oct 7 2006, 06:53 PM) [snapback]1333800[/snapback]</div>

So did you have to alter the actual bolt at all? And is that just a brass bar?

Keep us updated on how the trigger guard goes.

BTW - What caliber rounds does it hold? .38? .357? .44???
[/b]

Didn't alter the bolt at all, there's a groove on the underside that the K&S tube fits right into.

And the bullets in my blaster are deactivated .44 rounds, bought off Ebay.

 

[Jedi Lawja]

The 'probe' is the Steyr firing pin.

As to bluing, I don't believe the metal that the sidkits are made of would take well to bluing. I don't recall that exact composition, but I think it's zinc and lead, maybe pewter..

Jay

p.s. That is one beautiful build-up, Doc.

 

[Noeland]

<div class='quotetop'></div>

The 'probe' is the Steyr firing pin.[/b]

Here is the firing pin:

This picture is compliments of Craig K. Who's built at least 2 firing hero guns. He also informed me that:

"the firing pin is harder than a Han Solo carbonite woody at absolute zero, so there is no way it was modified."



Which still makes me laugh to read.

 

[Jedi Lawja]

A couple decades ago I took a few jewelry making classes. I can't recall the name of the substance, but there is an agent that will cause pewter to turn black. If the Sidkit is mostly pewter this might be a viable alternative to slathering paint on your prop. The blacking will come off with a bit of sanding in case you accidentally blacken an area you want silver. Added bonus it won't chip or wear off with handling.

Jay

 

[boodha]

Hey Jay

To your point about blueing- this guy at propcircle seems to have had some success with super blue.

http://www.propcircle.com/showthread.php?p=6473#post6473

Looks good to me.

Also it's my understanding that lead has been banned in the EU for some time, so maybe sidkits is a lead free alloy?

just my 2¢

 

[Serafino]

<div class='quotetop'>(Darth Infamous @ Sep 28 2006, 03:13 PM) [snapback]1328297[/snapback]</div>

I did encounter some difficulty in replicating the blueish worn steel look but I discovered completely by accident a cool trick. The metal I was dealing with is a combo of all sorts of metals...not steel. My whole goal was to try to get the steel look so I went and bought 3 types of blackening/blueing agents. 2 were the Permablue oxides. A Aluminum oxide and a steel oxide. Then i bought a bottle of blacken it. Like a mad scientist I began layering all 3 types of oxides on the metal. After many coats and some steel wool I got the look I wanted. It was neat watching the metal turn blue or black and sometimes brown but the effect was achieved.
On the Covers and housing all I did was use good ole fashion Rustoleum Semigloss paint on BARE metal. No primer. As long as you prep the metal ie. sand and wash it it will stick great. No flaking.

[/b]

From his thread about his gun here on the RPF. Which looks amazing.