AP: Off World MFG Blade Runner Blaster
- Thread starter Boba Debt
- Start date
Hirohawa
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Treadwell @ Dec 20 2006, 01:46 PM) [snapback]1381767[/snapback]</div>
The receiver on the topmost part of the blaster is metal but the bulldog barrel under it is plastic.
About the bevel - if you look at Coyle's blaster or the worldcon Hero pics you will see that there is a 45 degree angled edge. The OWM blaster is aplmost flat just has a slightly rounded edge.
The receiver on the topmost part of the blaster is metal but the bulldog barrel under it is plastic.
About the bevel - if you look at Coyle's blaster or the worldcon Hero pics you will see that there is a 45 degree angled edge. The OWM blaster is aplmost flat just has a slightly rounded edge.
androidandy
Sr Member
pic of barrel bevel...you can see it on authentic stunt castings and coyle blasters as well...
mr.predicta
Well-Known Member
Any reloaders here? Someone could load up a bunch of .38 shells without powder, maybe?
I would be interested also in a set of blanks
It would be great if someone cast up a metal bolt cap to match the metal Steyr.
MSL
I would be interested also in a set of blanks
It would be great if someone cast up a metal bolt cap to match the metal Steyr.
MSL
neosporing
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mr.predicta @ Dec 21 2006, 12:20 PM) [snapback]1382307[/snapback]</div>
.38 cal is 30 bucks
http://tinyurl.com/ybllht
blanks
http://tinyurl.com/r3c6f
.38 cal is 30 bucks
http://tinyurl.com/ybllht
blanks
http://tinyurl.com/r3c6f
androidandy
Sr Member
As far as the shells, I would be into dummy rounds with no powder, just the lead for the weight. For the parts, how about cold cast resin with steel powder? It would give weight and look like steel and be less flamable than the aluminum powder. It could even be patina'd to rust. I don't know if it could be blued though. I also think it wouldn't shrink like full on metal would. The cost may be prohibitive, but should be less than the metal casting. Metal casting would be more durable for the more breakable pieces though.
exoray
Master Member
Be carefull of blanks and such the primers still carry quite a punch...
If there is enough interest I might consider making up some dummy rounds... To make it worth while I need to make say 100 of them...
They would be filled with the correct weight in sand and a spent (possibly fake/dummy if I can source them) primer...
They would feel and look real except for the firing pin indent in the spent primer if fake/dummy primers are not sourced or used...
For the primer I could probably cast up some fake ones in cold cast aluminum, not authentic but safe and they would look pretty good...
I don't want to stear Boba Debt's thread into the "for sale" area so just keep this open as in interest only, notice...
If there is enough interest I might consider making up some dummy rounds... To make it worth while I need to make say 100 of them...
They would be filled with the correct weight in sand and a spent (possibly fake/dummy if I can source them) primer...
They would feel and look real except for the firing pin indent in the spent primer if fake/dummy primers are not sourced or used...
For the primer I could probably cast up some fake ones in cold cast aluminum, not authentic but safe and they would look pretty good...
I don't want to stear Boba Debt's thread into the "for sale" area so just keep this open as in interest only, notice...
exoray
Master Member
And thus the reason I stated to keep this thread on topic...
But, there is still the question of what 38 is the right one? I don't have one of these guns so I have no real clue except for someone stating it was a 38, I'm guessing 38 special?
There is also the question of brass shell vs. nickel plate shell?
What type of lead plated or raw...
Flat Point
Round Nose
Hollow Point
Double End Wad Cutter
Hollow Base Wad Cutter
As for the run of 100 that is generally the min quantity of bullets and brass you can purchase so if one person wants one set or 20 people want sets the cost is the same to make the run and thus why I stated it... I have no use for reloading 38s right now so any purchase of these parts (including the die) would be just for an RPF run...
As Boba Debt has stated I did contact him about this thread, and if and when a bullet configuration is decided upon then I will start an interest thread in the JY, but at this point it's more fact finding...
So feel free to continue giving feedback on Boba's parts and if you have a preference for rounds drop them as well...
Sounds like a great idea, exoray. The extra effort of casting up primer replicas...I dunno, is that overkill? Would they look okay without them? (I don't know, just asking)
This is absolutely the place to discuss such possibilities. When you reach the point of counting interested hands/taking orders, then will be the time to create a JY thread. Linking to it from here would be fine.
This is absolutely the place to discuss such possibilities. When you reach the point of counting interested hands/taking orders, then will be the time to create a JY thread. Linking to it from here would be fine.
exoray
Master Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Treadwell @ Dec 23 2006, 11:59 PM) [snapback]1383820[/snapback]</div>
Well without the primer either inert or used there, yeah it would look a little silly IMO...
Also without the primer the shell would have to be left empty, filling it with sand makes for a much more authentic feeling round and that is what this is about isn't it
The pros of using a spent primer is that they are easy to do and easy enough to get...
The cons of using s spent primer is that it will have the firing pin indent that is clearly visible as a spent round...
Yeah casting up fake primers is a little hassle but, hardly a big trouble and since I seem to be having a hard time finding fake ones as most dummy rounds leave the primer out for a clear visible indication of a dummy round...
I think the cleanest and most realistic rounds will be with a fake primer in place...
Example of primer in
Example of primer out
Well without the primer either inert or used there, yeah it would look a little silly IMO...
Also without the primer the shell would have to be left empty, filling it with sand makes for a much more authentic feeling round and that is what this is about isn't it
The pros of using a spent primer is that they are easy to do and easy enough to get...
The cons of using s spent primer is that it will have the firing pin indent that is clearly visible as a spent round...
Yeah casting up fake primers is a little hassle but, hardly a big trouble and since I seem to be having a hard time finding fake ones as most dummy rounds leave the primer out for a clear visible indication of a dummy round...
I think the cleanest and most realistic rounds will be with a fake primer in place...
Example of primer in
Example of primer out
