This has also been a blocker of mine for a long while. I have 0 electronic experience so I've been scared to even touch that part of the build
Cheap PKD (Water Gun)
- Thread starter Fett_Ish
- Start date
This has also been a blocker of mine for a long while. I have 0 electronic experience so I've been scared to even touch that part of the build
I posted a crude LED diagram on pg. 12 of my thread here that might help: Limited Run - PKD Water Gun Upgrade Kit, grips and ammo boxes Blade Runner Fullcock Takagi Blaster
I think that will help greatly, thanks Soulinertia!
hmm the link doesnt work for me
FULLCOCK - TAKAGI Type M2019 Water Blaster Steel Black
FULLCOCK - TAKAGI Type M2019 Water Blaster Steel Black is available on Impulse101.jp
impulse101.jp
David3
Sr Member
I'd buy another one, because it is pretty accurate (except for the amber grips which is easy to replace) but it has 'made in china' and 'Elfin Knights' embossed on the receiver instead of Austria and Steyr, as on the real prop, and that's a little too hard to rectify.
Unless.. someone can do replacement photoetch that could be popped into place after cutting out the old lettering. Hint! anyone?
Unless.. someone can do replacement photoetch that could be popped into place after cutting out the old lettering. Hint! anyone?
Darth Lars
Master Member
I would like that. I could use a replacement for the mess that I made inscribing a different country* using putty and a nail ...
Getoninja
Sr Member
for those like me who will not use the "Water Gun" feature, I wish Fullcock did this.
sell the water guns as unbuilt kits but remove the water gun features. Basically the gun would be sold in two half's, the triggers, barrel cap and two grips. And we put gun together. I think the cost would be lower than producing the working built water guns.
But make the plastic thicker, with added extra walls on the inside to reinforce the structure of the gun.
So, a unbuilt kit will actually help people like me to add lights, and extra features on the inside and make the build easier
Than instead of risking in destroying a water gun.
I own three water guns, two amber and 1 blue grip
And while taking apart 1 water gun for kitbashing, I destroyed big sections of the gun.
But the gun can still be saved
And here is a picture of it, reason I wish Fullcock sold these unbuilt
sell the water guns as unbuilt kits but remove the water gun features. Basically the gun would be sold in two half's, the triggers, barrel cap and two grips. And we put gun together. I think the cost would be lower than producing the working built water guns.
But make the plastic thicker, with added extra walls on the inside to reinforce the structure of the gun.
So, a unbuilt kit will actually help people like me to add lights, and extra features on the inside and make the build easier
Than instead of risking in destroying a water gun.
I own three water guns, two amber and 1 blue grip
And while taking apart 1 water gun for kitbashing, I destroyed big sections of the gun.
But the gun can still be saved
And here is a picture of it, reason I wish Fullcock sold these unbuilt
Yeah I know! I paid AU$15 each when they were first released!
Would anyone know where to get an ammo clip that would fit in this? I've heard people say they bought one on Shapeways, but which one fits this watergun?
Anyone?
Kylo1
Sr Member
Is this any good that I have seen on Ebay?
Blade Runner Blaster Parts Steyr Mag With 5 Functional LEDs | eBay
<p>You are buying a Styer mag plastic cast replica for your Blade Runner blaster.</p><br><p>This will fit most but I would recommend buying my housing to fit perfectly.</p><br><p>This has a resin replica round that can be removed and is bolted with M1 Allen bolts so you can change the battery...
www.ebay.co.uk
Darth Lars
Master Member
From what I can tell, the dimensions of the water-gun are fairly accurate but the walls are very thin. As long as your bought magazine isn't too large it should fit, but filler would be required for a tight fit.
I cut away the magazine bottom using fine razor saws, making sure to keep the LED details. I thickened the interior walls of the empty mag-well with sheet HiPS. Then I built a box of HiPS inside that mag well which I later glued to the water-gun's bottom. (It got more involved than that, but that's the gist of it)
I cut away the magazine bottom using fine razor saws, making sure to keep the LED details. I thickened the interior walls of the empty mag-well with sheet HiPS. Then I built a box of HiPS inside that mag well which I later glued to the water-gun's bottom. (It got more involved than that, but that's the gist of it)
I hadn't thought of cutting off the plate and building my own box...that would certainly be better than buying off someone and hoping it fits.
Kylo1, that certain looks nice, but other than that, I can't say.
Kylo1, that certain looks nice, but other than that, I can't say.
Darth Lars
Master Member
Enough already ...
In January after almost a year I almost had mine completed but I had got so tired of it that I put it in a box and did other projects for a while. I got it out of the box again this November, and even though a couple bolts are still missing I think I should post it while it is still November 2019
... (and before it darkens so much around here that I can't get take pictures in natural light for months)
The big features on my build/mod are a working rear trigger (pivoting, which clicks), pivoting front trigger (which doesn't do anything), working safety which blocks the trigger and (because I'm a lunatic with too much time...) a working bolt. The rear trigger presses a vertical rod (black plastic) behind the cylinder upwards, which has arms that compress a coiled spring and a clicking key switch. The safety lever slides to block the rod. The bolt also acts as a safety when it is open by being keyed to let the rod through only when closed.
It is actually a very simple mechanism but required a bit of tinkering to get the bolt keyed right:
The bolt was made from PVC pipe and sits in a channel made from pieces of PVC pipe glued into the upper receiver. The ejection port had to be reinforced on the inside. I used another piece of the smaller pipe with sandpaper to get the bolt's channel clear and straight. The bolt was painted and inserted from the front before the barrel tips part was glued in. I used Pencil's 3D-printed barrel-tip which is both top and bottom barrels.
The pieces protruding without undercuts have been remade. I cut off the left and right cylinder covers and built fake cylinder parts inside behind them to be seen through the gaps.
The left half of the cylinder is glued inside a well inside a built-up revolver frame. Part of the right
right cylinder was built and glued inside the right cover. I scratchbuilt the laser-sight from narrow pipe covered with Milliput and imprinted the dimples and knurling into the soft Milliput.
The cylinder cover with laser-sight sits on a flat part on the scratch-built half-cylinder with double-sided tape. The horizontal thumbscrew only needed the back filled.
I had built up the grip frame by stacking 2mm styrene. and gluing it into the water-gun's frame. I inserted it a couple mm wrong first, had to cut up the middle and reglue it with shims.
The magazine's bottom had been cut out, and the mag-well lined with styrene. New mag walls were built into that and glued to the magazine bottom. It fits in the mag-well with friction.
Area behind the front post was modded. Front post from a plastic rod I drilled through.
I can't remember all other small mods: I just kept piling them on whenever I noticed something that I could do.
I tried to recreate the original prop when possible and did mod the water-gun's shape in a couple of places. The thin plastic of the Water-Gun is thickened almost everywhere: there shouldn't be any empty space left except inside the mag well.
I had several big screw-ups: most of them because I had been set on using only plastic and solvent-based adhesive and I sometimes got things too wet... I had to fill the upper receiver on the outside to adjust for warping, and resculpt the bolt cap almost from scratch.
The paint-job was made to resemble the prop in its WorldCon state, with its rust patterns. I used "The Salt Method" after having seen it in the Nerf Gun Props? Yes! thread: Dupli-Color rust-red primer + dry-brushed Citadel Corrosion as rust. I used a humidifier's output to dampen the surface before sprinkling salt. Steel was painted with Tamiya spray paints: Dark Gunmetal on the Steyr receiver and Light Gunmetal on other "steel" parts. I also rubbed Pewter Rub'n Buff on some parts such as the barrel and the front half of the bolt. I used Vallejo Natural Steel and Gunmetal Grey for touch-ups and Molotow Liquid Chrome on some edges, especially worn edges on "aluminium" parts. Dry-brushed Citadel Corrosion for rust.
Separate parts were largely painted before being glued into the main gun, and then touched up.
The butt-plate was painted with an "aluminium" paint, wear-pattern masked with Molotow Liquid Mask and spray-painted. The sides of the butt plate and parts of the grip frame were covered with aluminium tape. (As shown by Hovito loincloth. Thanks!)
Some parts of the paint job needs to be redone or touched up: there is too much rust on the lever and the upper receiver is a bit patchy. It tends to wear off a bit easily, exposing "rust"..
The grips are from an artisan that had cast them in what I thought was the correct yellow hue but unfortunately he had only B-stock left when I ordered and I couldn't sand down all the bubbles on the inside. The white on the grips is indeed residue from polishing... like in the WorldCon images.
I am leaning towards not adding any electronics. The trigger just clicks. The hammer is visible but immovable — and that could be explained by the hammer spring missing.
In January after almost a year I almost had mine completed but I had got so tired of it that I put it in a box and did other projects for a while. I got it out of the box again this November, and even though a couple bolts are still missing I think I should post it while it is still November 2019
... (and before it darkens so much around here that I can't get take pictures in natural light for months) The big features on my build/mod are a working rear trigger (pivoting, which clicks), pivoting front trigger (which doesn't do anything), working safety which blocks the trigger and (because I'm a lunatic with too much time...) a working bolt. The rear trigger presses a vertical rod (black plastic) behind the cylinder upwards, which has arms that compress a coiled spring and a clicking key switch. The safety lever slides to block the rod. The bolt also acts as a safety when it is open by being keyed to let the rod through only when closed.
It is actually a very simple mechanism but required a bit of tinkering to get the bolt keyed right:
The bolt was made from PVC pipe and sits in a channel made from pieces of PVC pipe glued into the upper receiver. The ejection port had to be reinforced on the inside. I used another piece of the smaller pipe with sandpaper to get the bolt's channel clear and straight. The bolt was painted and inserted from the front before the barrel tips part was glued in. I used Pencil's 3D-printed barrel-tip which is both top and bottom barrels.
The pieces protruding without undercuts have been remade. I cut off the left and right cylinder covers and built fake cylinder parts inside behind them to be seen through the gaps.
The left half of the cylinder is glued inside a well inside a built-up revolver frame. Part of the right
right cylinder was built and glued inside the right cover. I scratchbuilt the laser-sight from narrow pipe covered with Milliput and imprinted the dimples and knurling into the soft Milliput.
The cylinder cover with laser-sight sits on a flat part on the scratch-built half-cylinder with double-sided tape. The horizontal thumbscrew only needed the back filled.
I had built up the grip frame by stacking 2mm styrene. and gluing it into the water-gun's frame. I inserted it a couple mm wrong first, had to cut up the middle and reglue it with shims.
The magazine's bottom had been cut out, and the mag-well lined with styrene. New mag walls were built into that and glued to the magazine bottom. It fits in the mag-well with friction.
Area behind the front post was modded. Front post from a plastic rod I drilled through.
I can't remember all other small mods: I just kept piling them on whenever I noticed something that I could do.
I tried to recreate the original prop when possible and did mod the water-gun's shape in a couple of places. The thin plastic of the Water-Gun is thickened almost everywhere: there shouldn't be any empty space left except inside the mag well.
I had several big screw-ups: most of them because I had been set on using only plastic and solvent-based adhesive and I sometimes got things too wet... I had to fill the upper receiver on the outside to adjust for warping, and resculpt the bolt cap almost from scratch.
The paint-job was made to resemble the prop in its WorldCon state, with its rust patterns. I used "The Salt Method" after having seen it in the Nerf Gun Props? Yes! thread: Dupli-Color rust-red primer + dry-brushed Citadel Corrosion as rust. I used a humidifier's output to dampen the surface before sprinkling salt. Steel was painted with Tamiya spray paints: Dark Gunmetal on the Steyr receiver and Light Gunmetal on other "steel" parts. I also rubbed Pewter Rub'n Buff on some parts such as the barrel and the front half of the bolt. I used Vallejo Natural Steel and Gunmetal Grey for touch-ups and Molotow Liquid Chrome on some edges, especially worn edges on "aluminium" parts. Dry-brushed Citadel Corrosion for rust.
Separate parts were largely painted before being glued into the main gun, and then touched up.
The butt-plate was painted with an "aluminium" paint, wear-pattern masked with Molotow Liquid Mask and spray-painted. The sides of the butt plate and parts of the grip frame were covered with aluminium tape. (As shown by Hovito loincloth. Thanks!)
Some parts of the paint job needs to be redone or touched up: there is too much rust on the lever and the upper receiver is a bit patchy. It tends to wear off a bit easily, exposing "rust"..
The grips are from an artisan that had cast them in what I thought was the correct yellow hue but unfortunately he had only B-stock left when I ordered and I couldn't sand down all the bubbles on the inside. The white on the grips is indeed residue from polishing... like in the WorldCon images.
I am leaning towards not adding any electronics. The trigger just clicks. The hammer is visible but immovable — and that could be explained by the hammer spring missing.
Last edited:
Enough already ...
In January after almost a year I almost had mine completed but I had got so tired of it that I put it in a box and did other projects for a while. I got it out of the box again this November, and even though a couple bolts are still missing I think I should post it while it is still November 2019
View attachment 1087270 View attachment 1087272 View attachment 1087284
The big features on my build/mod are a working rear trigger (pivoting, which clicks), pivoting front trigger (which doesn't do anything), working safety which blocks the trigger and (because I'm a lunatic with too much time...) a working bolt. The rear trigger presses a vertical rod (black plastic) behind the cylinder upwards, which compresses a coiled spring and a clicking key switch. The safety lever slides to block the rod. The bolt also acts as a safety when it is open by being keyed to let the rod through only when closed.
It is actually a very simple mechanism but required a lot of tinkering.
The bolt was made from PVC pipe and sits in a channel made from pieces of PVC pipe glued into the upper receiver. I used another piece of the smaller pipe with sandpaper to straighten the channel. The bolt was painted and inserted from the front before the barrel tip was glued in.
The pieces protruding without undercuts have been remade. I cut off the left and right cylinder covers and built fake cylinder parts inside behind them to be seen through the gaps.
The left part is 1/2 cylinder and glued inside a well inside a built-up revolver frame. I scratchbuilt the laser-sight from narrow pipe covered with Milliput and imprinted the dimples and checkering into the soft Milliput.
The cylinder cover with laser-sight sits on the cylinder with double-sided tape.
Part of the right cylinder was built and glued inside the right cover. The horizontal thumbscrew only needed the back filled.
I had built up the grip frame by stacking 2mm styrene. and gluing it into the water-gun's frame.
The magazine's bottom had been cut out, and the mag-well lined with styrene. New mag walls were built into that and glued to the magazine bottom. It fits in the mag-well with friction.
Area behind the front post was modded. Front post from a plastic rod I drilled through.
I can't remember all other small mods: I just kept piling them on whenever I noticed something that I could do.
I tried to recreate the original prop when possible and did mod the water-gun's shape in a couple of places. The thin plastic of the Water-Gun is thickened almost everywhere: there shouldn't be any empty space left except inside the mag well.
I had several big screw-ups: most of them because I had been set on using only plastic and solvent-based adhesive and I sometimes got things too wet... I had to fill the upper receiver on the outside to adjust for warping, and resculpt the bolt cap almost from scratch.
The paint-job was made to resemble the prop in its WorldCon state, with its rust patterns. I used "The Salt Method" after having seen it in the Nerf Gun Props? Yes! thread: Dupli-Color rust-red primer + dry-brushed Citadel Corrosion as rust. I used a humidifier's output to dampen the surface before sprinkling salt. Steel was painted with Tamiya spray paints: Dark Gunmetal on the Steyr receiver and Light Gunmetal on other "steel" parts. I also rubbed Pewter Rub'n Buff on some parts such as the barrel and the front half of the bolt. I used Vallejo Natural Steel and Gunmetal Grey for touch-ups and Molotow Liquid Chrome on some edges, especially worn edges on "aluminium" parts. Dry-brushed Citadel Corrosion for rust.
Separate parts were largely painted before being glued into the main gun, and then touched up.
The butt-plate was painted with an "aluminium" paint, wear-pattern masked with Molotow Liquid Mask and spray-painted. The rest of the butt plate and parts of the grip frame were covered with aluminium tape.
Some parts of the paint job needs to be redone or touched up: there is too much rust on the lever and the upper receiver is a bit patchy.
The grips are from an artisan that had cast them in what I thought was the correct yellow hue but unfortunately he had only B-stock left when I ordered and I couldn't sand down all the bubbles on the inside. The white on the grips is indeed residue from polishing... like in the WorldCon images.
I am leaning towards not adding any electronics. The trigger just clicks. The hammer is visible but immovable — and that could be explained by the hammer spring missing.
Wait a minute...that's your water gun mod!? *mind blown*
AndoShinobi
Member
That is amazing work on your water gun!
I still have mine in a semi finished state and a spare for casting in the future...
Very inspiring work, thank you so much for sharing it
I still have mine in a semi finished state and a spare for casting in the future...
Very inspiring work, thank you so much for sharing it
