Foam or Resin armor????

Yep... it's as simple as it sound.
There are some very cool shiny metallic vinyl "fabric" out there that can be used to cover a foam-base armor. It essentially replaces the paint for your costume.

Google "vinyl over foam" and you're bound to stumble on a couple of tutorials out there.
 
PVA is in a lot of glues. I don't really use it... but some people use Modge Podge or similar stuff to 'seal' the foam. If I need a re-enforced area within a foam piece (connection point, let's say), I just use 2-part epoxy coating before the plasti-dip on the piece.

Now that I've seen your costume, I'm thinking FOAM for most of it. The tight fit of the legs especially, would be a REAL challenge (both to build and wear).

I should point out isusuperman's thread on sewing foam armor... It's a VERY unique idea, but it might work well to replicate that skin-tight armor you want to create.

Here's the painting technique I'm using on my son's armor...

For hardened pieces I just use a good primer and then the auto paint. If it needs it (depending on paint type it might), hit it with a gloss coat as well.

For foam pieces I paint them in this order:
1.) 2-3 coats of plasti-dip
2.) 2 coats of adhesive promoter
3.) 2 coats of final paint color (Duplicolor colors I'm using: Dark Cherry Metallic & Sunburst Gold)
4.) IF it needs some extra shine, hit it LIGHTLY with some clear gloss for plastics (auto part stores carry this for flexible bumpers and stuff).

The trick with the gloss is to keep it LIGHT... just enough to have it shine without putting a thick layer on it that will crack. Also, you can mostly aim it on the surface... don't bother hitting the edges of the foam. That's an area you don't see much of and it's also the MOST flexed area on the piece.

Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
 
GraphicJordan found this place, so 100% props to him for a GREAT find!!!

Caroline's ebay store, Wandy Foam, sells a variety of EVA Closed-Cell foam. Several of us use Wandy Foam... and Caroline has been wonderful to deal with!

Note on thickness:
Jordan uses 4mm foam for his suit build and I've been using 3mm stuff for Mikey's scale-version. Jayjayn is actually using everything from 6mm to 2mm depending on how flexible/rigid the piece needs to be (which is super-smart).

Here are the Product links for Wandy Foam's 4mm and 3mm lines:
4mm Craft Foam (package of FIVE 12"x18" sheets) = $6.00 (5/19/11)

3mm Craft Foam (package of FIVE 12"x18" sheets) = $5.00 (5/19/11)
 
thank you for the links indiefilmgeek

one more question
If you buy the foam in sheets of 12x18
how do you build armor pieces that are bigger than that??
For example the shoulder pieces in my armor are definitely going to be larger than that, and making them out of multiple pieces would cause seams and edges on curves. plus how would you join them ?
 
i read most of the thread and thought i throw my an idea. couldnt you go the pep/bondo/resin route then cast off of that in a more suitable material? (i must add that i am very knew to this, so if just made you face palm i apologist in advance)
 
no apologies needed fleefromme
all ideas and thoughts are welcome.

I had that thought too- creating a resin version to create a mold and create the whole thing in a lightweight plastic that would be easy to paint shiny gold.

I am still weighing all my options.
Ive been trying to source vinyl to try the vinyl over foam method- not an easy thing to do apparently since really shiny reflective gold vinyl/pvc is hard to find.

I am working with my modeler to get the pep file finished right now.
 
thank you for the links indiefilmgeek

one more question
If you buy the foam in sheets of 12x18
how do you build armor pieces that are bigger than that??
For example the shoulder pieces in my armor are definitely going to be larger than that, and making them out of multiple pieces would cause seams and edges on curves. plus how would you join them ?

Sorry for the delay in response...

Adhesive for foam:
Hot glue. Simple, fast and non-toxic.

Piecing it together:
Edge to edge seams which are plasti-dip coated, are almost undetectable, but you might have better luck with those giant shoulder pieces in another material anyway.

I'm thinking the foam would work best when you're working on the tight-fitting leg and body armor.

As for how it all works... Here are two tutorial videos I did about working with foam.

CUTTING FOAM FOR COSTUMING VIDEO

GLUING FOAM FOR COSTUMING VIDEO

Any questions, please feel free to drop me a line anytime! :):thumbsup
 
I think the paint will still crack. I don't think any foam paint method will be 100% crack proof over a period of time.
 
I'll throw out my method for armor making.


Styrene plastic thermoforming with a heat gun. No molds or vaccuforming required. It will only give you basic shapes and curves.

But it's cheap, light weight, easy to use, easy to paint. Plus, when it is painted it can look just like metal.

Looks like the armor you want is simple shapes and curves. Styrene is a great way to go. I built my witchking armor with that method.

Also you can combine the styrene with some PVCFoam/Sintra. Also easy to work with and shape. My Buzz Lightyear armor is nearly 100% PVC Foam molded by hand with a heat gun. A glue gun and rivets to connect the pieces. THen a bit of magic Sculpt clay for smooth corners and details.
 
I get the big rolls of 36x60 foam for about $8 that are always hiding at my local Micheals only 2mm but you cant cut much bigger pieces out.

Edit: OH yeah I forgot about this tutorial. They used rub n buff and it turned out beautifully.
Craft Foam Armor Tutuorial
 
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Thanks for the links indie

one more question if you dont mind me asking.
the pepakura software- the full paid for version- does it allow you to output the designs as line drawings or in different formats??

I ask because I just ran a couple of tests in my laser cutter with a few sheets of foam and I got it to cut it beautifully without any warping or melting so I plan on cutting out all my foam pieces in the laser- much faster than cutting by hand with scissors- if I can get the right output from the software

Thank you for the links everyone, I appreciate it so very much.

Thanks for the styrene tip Hamsterstyle (btw- followed your buzz lightyear build- awesome) One of my regular customers is actually an acrylic/plastic supplier and we might be trading laser services for styrene if I decide to go that way.
How well does the styerene adhere to other materials?? I am thinking for the helmet of sculpting it in foam (the kind we use for molds in my shop) and then covering it in styrene to give it the slick finish.

Im thinking maybe the styrene would be perfect for the large shoulder pads.

Im sourcing a couple of different suppliers right now for foam in large sheets in case thats the route I go for the shoulder pieces

Right now I am working on testing out 2 different techniques to get the shiny metal finish on the foam- vinyl over foam and sealing the foam with wonderflex and painting it (just got the samples of it in the mail today).
 
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And don't ever get your armor wet as PVA is water based and dissolves rather quick with water or alcohol. :lol

Will the plasticote spray not seal it? If not then my whole costume is probably a right off as it's almost 100% that it willl rain here in the UK on the halloween weekend. Also now it's covered and painted i doubt i would even be able to salvage it. I got the PVA idea off here and didn't see anyone say it would cause an issue, i obviously missed it. :cry
 
ill go foam all the way from now on ive tried both and after spending weeks on just a helmet specialy if its a HD pep file all them little flaps and gluing your fingers to gether and the all the money on fiberglass and bondo and oh my god all that sanding ........and more sanding.......and more sanding ......oh and then theres the sanding lol ive never got past the helmet yet i get bored so easy but with foam i can whip up a big impressive piece in just a couple of hours and i think it looks better specialy for armour because you get that instant chunky armour look without really trying
 
Auryn,

I have been building suits for only two months and I have one suit complete and painted anather about to be hard coated and one other in the beginning stages. I told you all of that because all of those suits are in foam. First suit I used "WellBond" glue and water as a sealer and painted over the top of that. It works pretty good for the abuse it takes from it's ten yr old wearer, But I am going to use and experimental epoxy on my adult Mark IV which is light cheap, needs no cloth has low fumes and is supposed to be stonger and more tensile than fiberglass and resin. The stuff well get here in a few days and I will post the results. we are in the tampa bay area. How close are you to there. Grappic Jordan Is in st pete and I am in clearwater.
 
Thanks for the tips Zachary.
I look forward to seeing your progress.

I am in west palm- about 3.4-4 hrs away from tampa on the east coast. But I go up to Orlando/Lakeland often.
I am actually starting to hope to get this done in time for Megacon.

My first attempt is going to be to cover the foam in the vinyl fabric- I (hopefully) found the right one on sale online and it should be here tomorrow.
We will see what happens.

I appreciate all the help and suggestions everyone is providing.
I just wish I could work on this already.
We are moving in 2 weeks so I am not allowed to start any new projects.
but on the bright side I will get a whole 2 car garage as my new workshop.
 
Not much to update.
Spandexworld sent me the wrong fabric samples- I asked for gold they sent me silver and hematite.
My other fabric purchase has been in UPS limbo at the local hub since friday.
I am still looking for larger eva foam sheet sources- I think Im going to call my boat upholstery guy today and see what he says.

I think my best bet for the big shoulder pieces is going to be to use football shoulder pads as the base structure.
 
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