Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Models, W.I.P. photos, and Con Results!

Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Ein's piston toe caps, right off the printer, unpainted and on my, as yet, unweathered boots. Thank you, Ein!

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That looks great. :D I haven't actually assembled mine yet, I have been sanding the pistons smooth, but maybe tomorrow!
 
Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Those are just laying on the boots. Sanding and XTC-3D ahead for me, too!


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Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Is anyone on here by chance planning on making a file for the badges on the codpiece? Today I went to Michael's and two Hobby lobby's and I can't seem to find anything as an alternate
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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

I'll take care of some of that tomorrow. I actually just redid the castle nuts - I love you for sharing yours, ahoudini, but I couldn't get my slicing software to do them cleanly and they were a little asymmetrical, so I just banged out some new ones real quick. I'm not sure I have the scale on the castle nut files quite right yet, but I'll figure it out tomorrow as I do the badges.
 
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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

I love you Ein, Houdini pretty much everyone on this forum without you guys (and girls) I don't think my costume would be happening you people are great just wanted to say that! Thank you all ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439702581.299990.jpg


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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Thanks for redoing them, Ein. They were the first things I ever modeled in 3D and they are rough!


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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Did most of the necessary bits for the codpiece this morning, I think. For reference...

The "929" badge is a Mazda quarter panel badge from, you guessed it, a Mazda 929. The specific one in the movie is, appropriately enough, the one that was circulated in Australia - there's a domestic one that has a different font, just to complicate things.

The "240" badge is from a Ford Cortina.

The "49" badge I have no idea on, but it was easy enough to model up based on the references available.

As mentioned earlier, I redid some of the codpiece castle nuts just to give my printer a slightly easier time of things.



Link is here - I have also added it to the OP.
 
Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

If Immortan Joe wore a ring I think it would be this one I bought on Shapeways:

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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

That ring is super cool. :D Is that the gold steel finish? What a good print.

I finished what I think are all of the top bars for the medals.



Adding 'em to the OP now.
 
Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Ein,

Amazing models and the ring is brass.


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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

BTW, great pickup that the bar on the 500 medal is one half of a hinge!


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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

That ring is super cool. :D Is that the gold steel finish? What a good print.

I finished what I think are all of the top bars for the medals.

http://i.imgur.com/dnDEdG2h.jpg

Adding 'em to the OP now.

you're a madman, Ein. thank you so so much for taking the time to do all of these. you're really helping a lot of us out here!
 
Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Awww yeah. Finally made forward progress on the breastplate that wasn't super duper frustrating.

So I am using PETG sheeting in 1/16" thickness. That's .060" thick, for reference. I saw Hamsterstyle was doing his in .040" thickness, but McMaster Carr sells PETG sheeting for relatively cheap in 24 x 24" sizes and with next-day shipping included, because they are an industrial supplier. Pretty rad stuff, imo!

We tried forming the PETG by hand with a heatgun initially over Roman Muscle Armor we picked up off Amazon. This stuff ain't exactly screen-accurate musculature (and I have a plan for redoing the breastplate down the line in a more screen accurate fashion) but for our immediate purposes it works okay as a buck. We immediately had an awful time trying to form the complex curves on the breastplate by hand - things kept folding over, creasing, and generally being a monstrous pain to work with and get a clean finish.

I had a lot of the 1/16" PETG around and it seemed unworkably thick, but I had an idea to try and salvage it borrowed from a rather clever video I had seen Xrobots.co.uk put up about vacuforming. Specifically, he made a sort of homemade oven with an indoor quartz home heater, tin foil, and some hardback. I made a quick run to the hardware store, bought some HardieBacker cement board, and built up a quick... funnel? Kinda. I then lined it in tin foil and chucked a desk heater I had in the attic into the bottom and... well, ta-da! Quasi-vacuform oven.

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I actually had to disassemble the heater first, because it has sensors inside to detect if it has fallen over and shuts itself off to prevent a fire. The tinfoil lining is, in theory, to make sure the heat is redirected up onto the plastic. I built the opening at the top as a 23" x 23" square so I could just tape the plastic down over the edges and let it warm up. The theory behind this is hopefully straightforward - I wanted to heat the plastic, let it develop a droop or sag, then plunk it down into the armor quickly and shape the large complex curves out while it was still hot. If that worked, I could then heatgun the individual muscle outlines and develop the rest by hand.

I used the straps from the roman armor to basically vivisect the thing down to the table and got to work while the plastic was heating.

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I didn't get a lot of photos of the next step here, and I apologize, but we were trying to move fairly quickly. We were able to drop the thing into place and using welding gloves and wet paper towels we started roughly smoothing the whole piece of plastic into the complex curves we needed. Then I clamped the edges of the plastic to the armor, and we started heatgunning the piece, working from the top down and an ab at a time. Wet paper towels were pretty fantastic at keeping the surface smooth and shiny and giving us the ability to shape the plastic against the form.

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Very hard to photograph the clear armor while it is being formed! I actually took a pair of tin snips during this process and cut a few points as 'stress relief' on the plastic, to keep it from fighting us quite so hard while we were trying to shape things. This allowed the plastic to overlap a bit in places on the edges and give us a better fit against the armor.

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Popped the thing off and moment of truth...

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Huzzah! Pretty workable results here.

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The .060" thickness of the plastic makes it feel like legitimate armor. I love it - in the behind-the-scenes featurettes they discuss Joe's armor as possibly being a repurposed riot or bulletproof shield and this stuff is so much more satisfying than the vinyl-esque worbla. . I might have to use the heatgun to gently widen the area around the waist a bit, as I suspect I'll have issues wearing the holster belt and other robes unless it's a bit wider.

I'm going to do the lower ab section a second time on a separate piece so I can overlap and rivet the armor properly like Joe's does. Truthfully, the musculature on this is nothing like the stuff on the screen used armor:

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I'm quite happy with it visually all the same. I will probably redo this down the line to be more accurate when I have time to make a buck and a full vacuum forming setup, though.
 

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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

What a great post! Thanks!


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Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

Help me, oh 3D printing gurus!

Why would this print this way only on the edges of the G and the X? The chain pieces came out great. This is printed in ABS at 235°C on a heated bed. It seems like the extrusion passes are not sticking to the previous ones way up on these thin edges, and only there.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440340995.371703.jpg


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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

I'm not well versed in ABS but I do know that unless you are printing in a heated chamber, small or thin parts like that can have adhesion difficulties and separate up and out from the layers below. What's your printing setup look like? What are you slicing these files with? Can you share the gcode so I can pop it open and see what the print head thinks it should be doing?
 
Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

As soon as I get home, Ein. Thanks! I think, even though the bed is hot and the door is closed, it may be too cool in the chamber. I will plug the other openings (as others have done) and try again with just those emblems in the run. I will send the gcode, also.


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Re: Immortan Joe Progress Log - 3d Modelling and various other bits.

What speed are you printing at? Also what are your extrusion and retraction rates? If I had to guess, you're getting poor layer adhesion because you're moving too fast or because the layer doesn't have time to cool. For these tiny prints, I set my perimeter speed at 25mm/sec.

And unless the manufacturer says 235c, you might also want to try dropping the extruder temp down to 230. I know it' only 5c, but that'll shorten the cooling time.
 
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