MartinSivertsen
Well-Known Member
I finished painting my Training Remote, and I happened to take a picture in almost the exact same orientation as one of the original prop, so I had to do a comparison:
First off, I have to say that I am very happy with the proportions! I could tweak the triple styrene parts, and maybe shave off a millimeter from the outer diameter of the styrene semi circles, but it's very close.
The weathering on mine is more visible in real life and doesn't come through the photo as well, but it is also not as heavy handed as the original prop looks in this photo. And I used a pencil with pretty soft lead (5B), so the lines became pretty dark, and I didn't use a mechanical one, so the accuracy could be improved for next time.
I could go even lighter on the styrene rectangles around the equator. This could perhaps be fixed by doing either a very soft glaze of very light grey, almost white, or some very careful passes of isopropyl alcohol.
For general weathering I used very thinned down Burnt Umber and Black ink from Liquitex, starting with pure Burnt Umber for the first pass and adding a little bit of black for the subsequent ones. I applied this with a large shade brush from Citadel and dabbed off the excess with a paper towel.
For the weathering around the tank tracks on top I used some rust coloured pigment and heavily thinned Zamesi Desert from Citadel.
Over all I'm very pleased with the result!
First off, I have to say that I am very happy with the proportions! I could tweak the triple styrene parts, and maybe shave off a millimeter from the outer diameter of the styrene semi circles, but it's very close.
The weathering on mine is more visible in real life and doesn't come through the photo as well, but it is also not as heavy handed as the original prop looks in this photo. And I used a pencil with pretty soft lead (5B), so the lines became pretty dark, and I didn't use a mechanical one, so the accuracy could be improved for next time.
I could go even lighter on the styrene rectangles around the equator. This could perhaps be fixed by doing either a very soft glaze of very light grey, almost white, or some very careful passes of isopropyl alcohol.
For general weathering I used very thinned down Burnt Umber and Black ink from Liquitex, starting with pure Burnt Umber for the first pass and adding a little bit of black for the subsequent ones. I applied this with a large shade brush from Citadel and dabbed off the excess with a paper towel.
For the weathering around the tank tracks on top I used some rust coloured pigment and heavily thinned Zamesi Desert from Citadel.
Over all I'm very pleased with the result!
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