Nice! I like that you've got it all thought out. That's fandom!
Can't wait to see this one enter the physical realm.
Can't wait to see this one enter the physical realm.
Kitbashing the U.S.S. Cavalier, NCC-1967-B
- Thread starter daltman1967
- Start date
daltman1967
Active Member
I just cut the holes for the switches in the base last night; some are a 'little' wider than necessary, but that's ok; I can fill in the gaps with putty. It's going to look good when done.
I'm still working on the graphics for the decals on the base; I'm not entirely happy with how things are laid out. I'm going to keep playing with it until I get it JUST right!
My minor setback with the chipboard has been solved, so I'll be cutting my pieces tonight, and starting the build on the maquette. This is where I'm going to start uploading pictures, so stand by!
I'm still working on the graphics for the decals on the base; I'm not entirely happy with how things are laid out. I'm going to keep playing with it until I get it JUST right!
My minor setback with the chipboard has been solved, so I'll be cutting my pieces tonight, and starting the build on the maquette. This is where I'm going to start uploading pictures, so stand by!
daltman1967
Active Member
Finally got the flash card for my camera. I'll be taking pictures tonight. Prepare to be amazed!
daltman1967
Active Member
Well, I ran into a small snag. I kind of "forgot" that I'm working with THREE sets of diagrams, not TWO. One: Instructions from the kit; Two: My drawings; Three: Instructions for lighting from Trekmodeler.com.
Lights? Oh, yeah, lights. Oops. I was about to cement on the forward pieces of the saucer section when I realized that the lighting has to be underneath and behind those pieces.
So I spent some time drilling and cutting, and NOW I'm ready to take pictures... except that I can't get the camera to cooperate. *Sigh.* I'm going to see if I can borrow a camera.
Lights? Oh, yeah, lights. Oops. I was about to cement on the forward pieces of the saucer section when I realized that the lighting has to be underneath and behind those pieces.
So I spent some time drilling and cutting, and NOW I'm ready to take pictures... except that I can't get the camera to cooperate. *Sigh.* I'm going to see if I can borrow a camera.
daltman1967
Active Member
Finally! Pictures! As you can see, I've started assembling the pieces that make up the back part of the saucer section. Photo #001 shows where I cut out the impulse deck plus cut two holes for wires going to lighting in the upper section. Well, there's no going back now! If you notice the pointy protrusions at the bottom of the arc, those are from the connecting rods underneath; I kept those not only to hold the saucer together, but also as part of my structrual bracing system which will connect the saucer to the secondary hull.
Photo #002 shows my salvaged impulse deck. I saved as much as possible so that I could duplicate it. Photo #003 shows the first piece in place. This is REALLY thick chipboard, and is hard to cut. The dremel tool does the best job, but it overheats easily and also jams on occasion; it's really not high enough torque to cut this material.
Photo #004 shows a nearly complete upper deck. As you can see, it's slightly reminiscent of the back deck of the Reliant, but coming forward in a curve rather than just being a big rectangle at the back. Photo #005 shows this from another angle. Photo #006 shows the underside of the saucer; here you can see that this added on section goes no lower than the leading edge, and is, in fact, flush with it, just as the top portion is at the right & left sides.
Photo #007 shows the aft view. You can see I've cut out a notch where the secondary hull will eventually be attached. This notch may change size and/or shape once I build my secondary hull; we'll have to see. Finally, Photo #008 shows the last piece I have to put into place to make my project complete; Photo #009 is the MSPAINT version of that piece in place. I can hardly contain my excitement!
I got some REALLY good advice from a pro modeler; he's suggested different resin and casting compounds, and as soon as I have the money, I'm following his suggestion. He also pointed me to a company I'd heard of years ago and had forgotten about. They make miniature fluorescent lamps! These things are awesome! They have a picture of the 1701-E with these in the nacelles, and I can tell you, it's a far cry from using individual LED's! Therefore: I'm going to buy three: one for each nacelle and one to place over the arboretum. The one over the arboretum should give it a smooth, consistent light source which the LED's just can't match. There is one small catch to the fluorescent system: It requires a 12v power supply. The lighting requires a 9v power supply. Well, the simplest solution is a good sized resistor just after the fluorescent circuit, powering the rest of the lights. Fortunately, <grin> I still remember my lessons in Ohm's Law: V=IR; I/R=V. I know the approximate amount of current needed for the LED's, and the voltage is a known, so calculating the resistance (resistance is futile! [Sorry, I couldn't help myself]) should be easy.
Well, that's all for now. Next up: Cutting and assembling the secondary hull.
Photo #002 shows my salvaged impulse deck. I saved as much as possible so that I could duplicate it. Photo #003 shows the first piece in place. This is REALLY thick chipboard, and is hard to cut. The dremel tool does the best job, but it overheats easily and also jams on occasion; it's really not high enough torque to cut this material.
Photo #004 shows a nearly complete upper deck. As you can see, it's slightly reminiscent of the back deck of the Reliant, but coming forward in a curve rather than just being a big rectangle at the back. Photo #005 shows this from another angle. Photo #006 shows the underside of the saucer; here you can see that this added on section goes no lower than the leading edge, and is, in fact, flush with it, just as the top portion is at the right & left sides.
Photo #007 shows the aft view. You can see I've cut out a notch where the secondary hull will eventually be attached. This notch may change size and/or shape once I build my secondary hull; we'll have to see. Finally, Photo #008 shows the last piece I have to put into place to make my project complete; Photo #009 is the MSPAINT version of that piece in place. I can hardly contain my excitement!
I got some REALLY good advice from a pro modeler; he's suggested different resin and casting compounds, and as soon as I have the money, I'm following his suggestion. He also pointed me to a company I'd heard of years ago and had forgotten about. They make miniature fluorescent lamps! These things are awesome! They have a picture of the 1701-E with these in the nacelles, and I can tell you, it's a far cry from using individual LED's! Therefore: I'm going to buy three: one for each nacelle and one to place over the arboretum. The one over the arboretum should give it a smooth, consistent light source which the LED's just can't match. There is one small catch to the fluorescent system: It requires a 12v power supply. The lighting requires a 9v power supply. Well, the simplest solution is a good sized resistor just after the fluorescent circuit, powering the rest of the lights. Fortunately, <grin> I still remember my lessons in Ohm's Law: V=IR; I/R=V. I know the approximate amount of current needed for the LED's, and the voltage is a known, so calculating the resistance (resistance is futile! [Sorry, I couldn't help myself]) should be easy.
Well, that's all for now. Next up: Cutting and assembling the secondary hull.
daltman1967
Active Member
I've taken a short break from the saucer section to start piecing together the secondary hull. This is what makes the project more of a scratchbuilt than kitbash project. The ENTIRE secondary hull, from stem to stern, must be made from scratch.
I started by measuring the outline of the aft view at its widest point. I then took virtual "slices" of the hull at 1.5" intervals. Each new "slice" was then resized to fit the height & width of the drawing. I constructed a 1.5" block, glued the slices together, and voila! A hull!
Today I'm printing, cutting, and gluing the sections which make up the shuttlebay. This is actually the last "structural" part of this which needs to be built.
There are, however, several sections where I'm not entirely certain I have my shapes right: The interface between the secondary hull and the saucer section; the interface between the secondary hull and the sensor array; the undercut at the bottom aft; and finally, the shuttlebay itself.
Building this thing is really the only way to figure out what's right, wrong, missing, or whatever. There's really no other way. It's really quite difficult to take a 2-D drawing and visualize it as 3-D, let alone actually TURNING IT into a 3-D model.
This, when added to the fact that I have ABSOLUTELY no clue what I'm doing makes this a VERY challenging project.
Photo #10 shows a side view of the secondary hull, looking very much like the skeleton of some prehistoric creature; Photo #11 shows it from underneath coming from aft, and Photo #12 shows the shuttlebay under construction.
I started by measuring the outline of the aft view at its widest point. I then took virtual "slices" of the hull at 1.5" intervals. Each new "slice" was then resized to fit the height & width of the drawing. I constructed a 1.5" block, glued the slices together, and voila! A hull!
Today I'm printing, cutting, and gluing the sections which make up the shuttlebay. This is actually the last "structural" part of this which needs to be built.
There are, however, several sections where I'm not entirely certain I have my shapes right: The interface between the secondary hull and the saucer section; the interface between the secondary hull and the sensor array; the undercut at the bottom aft; and finally, the shuttlebay itself.
Building this thing is really the only way to figure out what's right, wrong, missing, or whatever. There's really no other way. It's really quite difficult to take a 2-D drawing and visualize it as 3-D, let alone actually TURNING IT into a 3-D model.
This, when added to the fact that I have ABSOLUTELY no clue what I'm doing makes this a VERY challenging project.
Photo #10 shows a side view of the secondary hull, looking very much like the skeleton of some prehistoric creature; Photo #11 shows it from underneath coming from aft, and Photo #12 shows the shuttlebay under construction.
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daltman1967
Active Member
I found that I hadn't made the pieces for the shuttlebay right; once I saw them on I knew right away it was wrong. I had forgotten to account for changes in height, plus the changing angle of the door.
I've now redone the bay, and it's actually looking right now. The bottom "lip" of the bay is now a stright line, the way it's supposed to be.
I've also started covering both sections of the model with papier mache strips. Wow - what a difference. It's not only helping make the model STURDY, it's giving it a visible, actual form. It's now much easier to see the final shape. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
As an aside, is anyone out there still watching? No one's posted in a while.
I've now redone the bay, and it's actually looking right now. The bottom "lip" of the bay is now a stright line, the way it's supposed to be.
I've also started covering both sections of the model with papier mache strips. Wow - what a difference. It's not only helping make the model STURDY, it's giving it a visible, actual form. It's now much easier to see the final shape. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
As an aside, is anyone out there still watching? No one's posted in a while.
Jm419
Sr Member
I'm actually planning my own kitbash, the NCC 1969. It'll be a different class than yours, probably TOS styled, but I might make it a refit-style one too. I'm in preliminary stages, but I even have the name picked out - the USS Apollo. I'm aware that there's been an Apollo in TNG, but there were three USS Intrepids, so I think an Apollo is a neat name. It'll be a battlecruiser, designed for armed exploration, and built more heavily than the Constitution-Class.
So, I'm following you, but mine'll be mostly kitbashed instead of scratchbuilt.
So, I'm following you, but mine'll be mostly kitbashed instead of scratchbuilt.
daltman1967
Active Member
Re: Apollo
I'd like to see your drawings. As you can see from the pictures I've posted, I'm about 1/4 through just "building up" the ship; it's about 1/2 kitbash, 1/2 scratchbuilt. I just couldn't do it any other way & still get the ship I wanted.
I'd like to see your drawings. As you can see from the pictures I've posted, I'm about 1/4 through just "building up" the ship; it's about 1/2 kitbash, 1/2 scratchbuilt. I just couldn't do it any other way & still get the ship I wanted.
daltman1967
Active Member
Take a look at the drawing I've posted. There's a copy here on page one plus in my album. Once you've gotten your rough drawing (top & side) worked out, I'd be happy to work up a full-fledged REAL drawing in Corel. Top, side, bottom, fore & aft. $200.
It'll give you something to work with. Although, there MAY be some areas which aren't 100% correct between the drawing (2D) and the model (3D)... this is something I've already encountered five times. However, it's a place to start. If you're interested, please let me know.
It'll give you something to work with. Although, there MAY be some areas which aren't 100% correct between the drawing (2D) and the model (3D)... this is something I've already encountered five times. However, it's a place to start. If you're interested, please let me know.
daltman1967
Active Member
Here's some pictures of how the secondary hull is shaping up. I was originally going to use thinner cardboard to cover the skeleton, but found these plaster of paris strips that worked MUCH better. Besides making everything nice & stiff, there's also a hard surface on which to build.
Picture #13 shows the front end of the secondary hull, while Picture #14 shows the aft. You can clearly see the outline of the shuttlebay. More to come soon!
Picture #13 shows the front end of the secondary hull, while Picture #14 shows the aft. You can clearly see the outline of the shuttlebay. More to come soon!
daltman1967
Active Member
Photo #015 shows the base, now with the switches installed. The white gunk is putty filling in various gaps. Once it's dry, I'll sand it, mask off the switches, repaint the whole thing, then get ready to rock 'n roll on the detail paint.
Photo #016 shows how neatly the power receptacle fits into the base.
Photo #017 is a picture of the arboretum that comes with the Polar Lights model. I hadn't looked at it in weeks. But since my paint just arrived, I thought I might take a stab at getting this part of the project done...
Photo #018 shows why I can't do that. Mini-Me might be able to use this arboretum, but I sure as heck can't! :cry Anyway, I've traced off a new arboretum, which I'll be starting on today. It's wider, longer, and taller than its predecessor. Of course, I'll also be designing new decals for the side walls.
Photo #016 shows how neatly the power receptacle fits into the base.
Photo #017 is a picture of the arboretum that comes with the Polar Lights model. I hadn't looked at it in weeks. But since my paint just arrived, I thought I might take a stab at getting this part of the project done...
Photo #018 shows why I can't do that. Mini-Me might be able to use this arboretum, but I sure as heck can't! :cry Anyway, I've traced off a new arboretum, which I'll be starting on today. It's wider, longer, and taller than its predecessor. Of course, I'll also be designing new decals for the side walls.
daltman1967
Active Member
Well, I HAVE been busy. I worked for a bit on the electronics (a dismal failure making the 12v-9v power converter; I'll try again soon). I just now printed the layout of the arboretum, so now I can work on that.
The past few days I've been focusing on the secondary hull. As you can see from the attached pictures, it's no longer a prehistoric skeleton, nor even a skeleton covered in skin; there's meat on them bones!
Picture #19 shows the hull taking on its final shape. I started with the dorsal side, as that was the easiest; later today I'll start working the ventral side. Photo #20 shows a little bit better how the surface is now a single, smooth flowing shape.
Photo #21 is where the rubber meets the road: the shuttlebay. I've filled in the gaps all the way up to it, but haven't yet done the covering there. This is the LAST thing I will do.
Just so you can get an idea of the scale I'm working in, I've enclosed photo #22. There, you can see two ordinary plastic ballpoint pens, for scale. The blue one at aft, just above the shuttlebay, is very nearly even with the edges of the ship. The gray one near the fore is very nearly lost in the immense white expanse of this hull.
I am really happy with the plaster of paris strips I bought. Just dip them in water, spread them on, and presto! You have a hard surface to build on. Well, that was nothing compared to the compound I bought to build up the model with.
Dry, in its box, it looks and feels like just a whole bunch of small paper scraps - like you might find in a shredder. Wet, it's like lumpy oatmeal (not the instant kind, but the kind you get in a cylindrical container. Some of you out there know what I mean).
As you work it, adding a little water to make it flow better, it gradually takes on whatever shape you give it. It molds like clay. Hard, it should be EASY to sand. I'm looking forward to the carving - adding deflector grid lines, windows, and so on; it's going to be a REAL challenge!
Anyway, that's all for this update. I'll be back soon! P.S. If you ARE watching this thread, please drop a "I'm here watching" message every now and again; the last two weeks or so I feel like I've just been talking to myself. Thanks!
The past few days I've been focusing on the secondary hull. As you can see from the attached pictures, it's no longer a prehistoric skeleton, nor even a skeleton covered in skin; there's meat on them bones!
Picture #19 shows the hull taking on its final shape. I started with the dorsal side, as that was the easiest; later today I'll start working the ventral side. Photo #20 shows a little bit better how the surface is now a single, smooth flowing shape.
Photo #21 is where the rubber meets the road: the shuttlebay. I've filled in the gaps all the way up to it, but haven't yet done the covering there. This is the LAST thing I will do.
Just so you can get an idea of the scale I'm working in, I've enclosed photo #22. There, you can see two ordinary plastic ballpoint pens, for scale. The blue one at aft, just above the shuttlebay, is very nearly even with the edges of the ship. The gray one near the fore is very nearly lost in the immense white expanse of this hull.
I am really happy with the plaster of paris strips I bought. Just dip them in water, spread them on, and presto! You have a hard surface to build on. Well, that was nothing compared to the compound I bought to build up the model with.
Dry, in its box, it looks and feels like just a whole bunch of small paper scraps - like you might find in a shredder. Wet, it's like lumpy oatmeal (not the instant kind, but the kind you get in a cylindrical container. Some of you out there know what I mean).
As you work it, adding a little water to make it flow better, it gradually takes on whatever shape you give it. It molds like clay. Hard, it should be EASY to sand. I'm looking forward to the carving - adding deflector grid lines, windows, and so on; it's going to be a REAL challenge!
Anyway, that's all for this update. I'll be back soon! P.S. If you ARE watching this thread, please drop a "I'm here watching" message every now and again; the last two weeks or so I feel like I've just been talking to myself. Thanks!
daltman1967
Active Member
Kitbashing or Scratchbuilding, especially on a level like I'm doing, is NOT for the timid! This project has now exceeded the $2,000.00 mark. Between the model, styrene, glue, paint, and all the tools, this project has gotten far more expensive than I first thought - and I haven't yet spent the $200 or so I need on the RTV and resin.
Simpler is better, friends. But if you, like me, want to keep true to your vision, then you've got a LOT of hours of work, disappointments, failures, expenditures, headaches, frustrations, and just plain old SWEAT to look forward to.
But according to Mr. Thomas A. Edison, the Wizard of Menlo Park, genius is one percent inspiration, and ninety-nine percent perspiration. Don't start a project like this unless you're REALLY READY to face the long road ahead.
All that being said, I'm enjoying the process!
Simpler is better, friends. But if you, like me, want to keep true to your vision, then you've got a LOT of hours of work, disappointments, failures, expenditures, headaches, frustrations, and just plain old SWEAT to look forward to.
But according to Mr. Thomas A. Edison, the Wizard of Menlo Park, genius is one percent inspiration, and ninety-nine percent perspiration. Don't start a project like this unless you're REALLY READY to face the long road ahead.
All that being said, I'm enjoying the process!
daltman1967
Active Member
I’ve finally gotten the circuit for my shuttlebay landing lights done! Photo #23 shows the lights all on at once; Video #01 (Yes, my first video of this project!) shows the sequence. The circuit is programmable both in speed and in pattern. I’ve looked at the other patterns, and the single set at a time looks the best. As far as the speed, I’m happy with it for now. Once this circuit is in place underneath the deck of the actual shuttlebay (months away, I know, but…), then I’ll be able to see better if the speed needs to be slowed down or sped up.
Sorry about the video being in a .zip file; the system won't let you upload video files.
Sorry about the video being in a .zip file; the system won't let you upload video files.
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daltman1967
Active Member
Photo #24 shows the final, completed shuttlebay landing light circuit. There’s actually two parts to the circuit: the board that does the sequence (which I got from a great kit) and the boards that hold the LEDs. In Photo #23, you can see I set everything up on the test board; now that everything’s on the final board, I can move on to other projects. I glued a U beam to each side of the circuit boards to hold them together and keep everything flat.
I’m waiting for my paycheck to go back to the secondary hull; I’ve run out of materials, and can’t do anything until I buy some more. Additionally, I haven’t been able to get my airbrush to work at all. So, when I go to get materials, I’ll be asking for help at the hobby craft store, and see if they can tell me what I’ve been doing wrong. I have the base completely masked off (a big project in itself) so that I can airbrush on the red on the raised details.
Lastly, I want to see what I can use to fill in the gaps in the construction material I’ve covered the hull with. The stuff itself doesn’t smooth out very well, and leaves pits. I want a COMPLETELY smooth surface, so that when I sand, it’s as smooth as “a baby’s bottom.” Once the surface is smooth, THEN I’ll start scribing the lines of the sensor grid and adding other details.
One other “little” side note: I still have yet to build up the base of the nacelle pylons. This base will be integrated into the hull, just as it is with the Polar Lights model. Since I need to do this before finishing the secondary hull, I may take a short side trip and create the pylons.
I’m waiting for my paycheck to go back to the secondary hull; I’ve run out of materials, and can’t do anything until I buy some more. Additionally, I haven’t been able to get my airbrush to work at all. So, when I go to get materials, I’ll be asking for help at the hobby craft store, and see if they can tell me what I’ve been doing wrong. I have the base completely masked off (a big project in itself) so that I can airbrush on the red on the raised details.
Lastly, I want to see what I can use to fill in the gaps in the construction material I’ve covered the hull with. The stuff itself doesn’t smooth out very well, and leaves pits. I want a COMPLETELY smooth surface, so that when I sand, it’s as smooth as “a baby’s bottom.” Once the surface is smooth, THEN I’ll start scribing the lines of the sensor grid and adding other details.
One other “little” side note: I still have yet to build up the base of the nacelle pylons. This base will be integrated into the hull, just as it is with the Polar Lights model. Since I need to do this before finishing the secondary hull, I may take a short side trip and create the pylons.
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SteveNeill
Sr Member
I love this concept and build.
Steve
Steve
