Let's Build a TIE Bomber! - Final Pics

[JimmyB]

I have the fuselage (pipe only) length at 3.5". I find this suspect as everywhere I've read it's 4".
11 x "ribs" at 1/16" width each.
12 x grooves in-between the ribs .6mm wide.
That would make the width of the whole section to be 15/16"

My gut is telling me none of this is right.

Using top and bottom photos of the original bomber (or plans that are known to be reliable), you could compare the length of the fuselage pipe to the length of the Vader TIE wing parts - which are a matching and reliably known length because they're the same as the original parts - and work out the ratio, which you could then convert into inches/mm.

Try to measure the Vader wings in the photos along a level that sits at the same level as the fuselage edge to try and account for minor differences due to perspective and foreshortening in the photos. Half an inch difference is quite large, so it should at least give you some idea of whether 3.5" or 4" is more accurate.

 

[Boxcar Bret]

Using top and bottom photos of the original bomber (or plans that are known to be reliable), you could compare the length of the fuselage pipe to the length of the Vader TIE wing parts - which are a matching and reliably known length because they're the same as the original parts - and work out the ratio, which you could then convert into inches/mm.

Try to measure the Vader wings in the photos along a level that sits at the same level as the fuselage edge to try and account for minor differences due to perspective and foreshortening in the photos. Half an inch difference is quite large, so it should at least give you some idea of whether 3.5" or 4" is more accurate.

Sorry, I meant to say my gut says that’s “not” right.

You’re right, it is a large difference. I’m sure the length will sort itself out easily. It’s the ribs I want to make sure that I compare notes from others and not guesstimate.

 

[JimmyB]

You seem to have the Tamiya Flak38 and Leopold, so I'd just take part A20 (Flak) and part B3 (Leopold), and use them to design the ribs (or figure out pipe length) by using a printout of the model reference scaled to match the parts on the sprues you have.

Edit: You can even use a computer monitor to measure by putting the kit parts against the monitor screen and zoom the reference photo by increments until the parts in the reference photo match the size of the kit parts you have. Then measure the length of the pipe in the reference photo.

 

[rbeach84]

Seems the diameter of the 'pipes' is set by the Saturn V part 'end caps'. With that in hand, it is then simple to take the diameter of the pipe in pix as your yardstick for measurements for *any* of the features on the TIE bomber's nacelles...

 

[Boxcar Bret]

Seems the diameter of the 'pipes' is set by the Saturn V part 'end caps'. With that in hand, it is then simple to take the diameter of the pipe in pix as your yardstick for measurements for *any* of the features on the TIE bomber's nacelles...

The diameter is 2” for sure. When I used the schematic below and calipers I came up with the 3.5” length.

 

[swgeek]

I measured mine just now, keep in mind I'm not using my good calipers, those are at work, and I'm measuring a painted model.
Having said that.
Overall fuselage 3.5"
Front of fuselage to front edge of first groove .375"
Grooves .02" wide
Ribs between grooves. .0675"
From leading edge of first groove to the trailing edge of the last groove. .8645"

Also, I used a modified hack saw blade to make my grooves.
Hope some of this helps.

 

[JimmyB]

Yep, that's 3.5" for sure based on a 2" Saturn V cap diameter. Did the 4" measurements you've seen include the end caps?

 

[Boxcar Bret]

Yep, that's 3.5" for sure based on a 2" Saturn V cap diameter. Did the 4" measurements you've seen include the end caps?

The more I’ve been thinking about it that probably was the case.

 

[Boxcar Bret]

Thank you!

 

[Boxcar Bret]

I measured mine just now, keep in mind I'm not using my good calipers, those are at work, and I'm measuring a painted model.
Having said that.
Overall fuselage 3.5"
Front of fuselage to front edge of first groove .375"
Grooves .02" wide
Ribs between grooves. .0675"
From leading edge of first groove to the trailing edge of the last groove. .8645"

Also, I used a modified hack saw blade to make my grooves.
Hope some of this helps.

View attachment 1793786

Thanks, Jonathan!

 

[mjhenks]

Nice work.

Your using the same scribing tool I used on my SnowSpeeder. I tested a bunch and found 6-10 passes were needed for a good groove. It is also super easy to get in a hurry and over scribe. When linking up two lines do not forget the width of the tool. It will mess with you on your pencil lines. I found it best to run my main lines per my pencil marks and the adjust my cross lines to match the ends of the mains. It was also super helpful if the scribe line was ending in another scribe line to help not overrun. Anyways....

Also love the poor man milling.

Where did the donor map come from? If able please link or post where that is.

 

[bwayne64]

Nice work.

Your using the same scribing tool I used on my SnowSpeeder. I tested a bunch and found 6-10 passes were needed for a good groove. It is also super easy to get in a hurry and over scribe. When linking up two lines do not forget the width of the tool. It will mess with you on your pencil lines. I found it best to run my main lines per my pencil marks and the adjust my cross lines to match the ends of the mains. It was also super helpful if the scribe line was ending in another scribe line to help not overrun. Anyways....

Also love the poor man milling.

Where did the donor map come from? If able please link or post where that is.

Here's a link to the map.

https://www.x2creativos.com/pdf/tie_bomber.pdf

 

[Boxcar Bret]

Nice work.

Your using the same scribing tool I used on my SnowSpeeder. I tested a bunch and found 6-10 passes were needed for a good groove. It is also super easy to get in a hurry and over scribe. When linking up two lines do not forget the width of the tool. It will mess with you on your pencil lines. I found it best to run my main lines per my pencil marks and the adjust my cross lines to match the ends of the mains. It was also super helpful if the scribe line was ending in another scribe line to help not overrun. Anyways....

Also love the poor man milling.

Where did the donor map come from? If able please link or post where that is.

Thanks for the tips. You’re right, it’s a great tool but easy to lose control of especially since you pull it towards you. The claw shaped blade also doesn’t help when it comes to watching what your doing.

I saw someone beat me to posting the link to the parts map. Super helpful stuff.

 

[rbeach84]

UMM-USA

This is probably the best scriber I've used. It can be pulled AND pushed which is very useful when working into corners.
Cheers!

 

[Boxcar Bret]

UMM-USA

This is probably the best scriber I've used. It can be pulled AND pushed which is very useful when working into corners.
Cheers!

Hey thanks! I’ll check it out.

 

[rbeach84]

It is a multi-edge tool, even the corners are sharp enough to be used for scrapping, etc. It was designed that way!
For the 'push' scribing, the tip opposite end to the curved 'pull' scriber is what you use.
Best thing is: it is on sale!
;^)
R/ Robert

 

[bwayne64]

Would you mind measuring the canopy front to back. I see you have it at 1.6 in diameter. I've lost my canopy, and will have to 3d print a replacement. Thanks if you're able to do it. She's looking good so far, Cheers,

Joe

 

[Boxcar Bret]

Would you mind measuring the canopy front to back. I see you have it at 1.6 in diameter. I've lost my canopy, and will have to 3d print a replacement. Thanks if you're able to do it. She's looking good so far, Cheers,

Joe

Sure!

 

[bwayne64]

Thanks man ! I appreciate it.

 

[Boxcar Bret]

Thanks man ! I appreciate it.

D: 1.6105"
H: 2.3575"