molotow liquid chrome pens and spray paints

[Too Much Garlic]

From people who have clear coated Alclad II or Spaz Stix with Future I heard they misted the first or first few layers first and let that dry before doing a heavy coat. That way they didn't risk activating the chrome and uncure it and leaving it hazy. I've seen very convincing results but never tried it myself.

 

[Confused85]

Not wanting to take this off topic but how does this effect compare to using chrome powders like in this tutorial?
http://www.mvpfigure.com/gundam-mod...reate-mirror-chrome-effect-by-nanxnei-studio/

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[The5thElement]

Has anyone tried brushing this on with a paint brush after decanting from the marker?

I'm wondering if it could be used that way to chrome paint the blades of a Loki sceptre (...in the absence of an airbrush).

Thanks for sharing the examples of what this stuff can do!

 

[Soulinertia]

If you haven't gone out and bought these markers yet, do yourself a favor and pick some up!

These are so much fun.

I tested them out by coloring one of my Star Lord rocket controller shells:

before (cast in white resin):

after:

 

[zorg]

Anyone tried tamiya clear on this yet?

 

[Kroenen77]

I tested the biggest marker yesterday and the effect is really great..but only for small parts.
For bigger parts I would always spray it with airbrush.I contacted molotow and asked about clearcoat and they told me that clearcoat will ruin the chromeeffect.
So be careful with the painted parts because the stuff is not really scratchresistant!

- - - Updated - - -

If you haven't gone out and bought these markers yet, do yourself a favor and pick some up!

These are so much fun.

I tested them out by coloring one of my Star Lord rocket controller shells:

before (cast in white resin):
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f33/GirlsofComicCon08/New uploads/20170303_235953.jpg

after:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f33/GirlsofComicCon08/New uploads/20170304_014200.jpg

You must use primer on naked resin and sand it very fine before you add the chrome.Thats the only way to become a clean surface.

 

[E Williams]

Here's the Molotow liquid chrome on a Rebels comlink. The chrome paint has a light coat of Krylon gloss clear over it (an older formulation, not "Covermax")

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

Impressive!! That is probably the best I've seen this stuff take to a clear coat.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3906/32558119644_04b95c6369_z.jpg

Here's the Molotow liquid chrome on a Rebels comlink. The chrome paint has a light coat of Krylon gloss clear over it (an older formulation, not "Covermax")

 

[E Williams]

I haven't tried any newer Krylon, but I worry since the reformulation seems to have a more aggressive solvent. Will have to try it sooner or later because my old can is nearly empty. Will report back!

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

The 30ML refill is on Amazon, so I gave it an order. We'll see how it turns out. As of now, I've switched back to Alumaluster for my chrome. The Molotow's shine is the closest I've seen to a vac metalized finish, but the trade off in cure time and long term durability just don't make it viable in a fast turn around environment.

Here is a tip... I've found mixing it down a little with Alumaluster retains a great amount of shine, and increases the frying time exponentially. At that point, I hardly think it's worth it though.

 

[FirstPick]

I love this stuff

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

*THIS IS NOT CORRECT, it just looks thinned from the outside.* Just as I feared, the ink in the refill is heavily thinned. If you want the chrome, you've got to buy the pens.

I'll airbrush this when I get a chance and post the results.

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

A correction:

I had incorrectly assumed looking from the bottle that it was thinned down. I opened it up to do an airbrush test today, and of course, it wasn't thinned at all. It is the same as what's in the marker!

Guess it goes to show you the whole "don't judge a book by its cover" thing may have a little something to it. :lol

 

[E Williams]

A correction:

I had incorrectly assumed looking from the bottle that it was thinned down. I opened it up to do an airbrush test today, and of course, it wasn't thinned at all. It is the same as what's in the marker!

Guess it goes to show you the whole "don't judge a book by its cover" thing may have a little something to it. :lol

Oh man you had me scared for a second there. I've got one of those on order as well so that would have been pretty disappointing.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Glad it turned out the same.

Here's the Molotow liquid chrome on a Rebels comlink. The chrome paint has a light coat of Krylon gloss clear over it (an older formulation, not "Covermax")

That actually looks great as brushed steel. So that's what a Krylon clear coat does to the chrome pen finish. Have you tried misting the clear on for the first few coats before doing a full covering layer?

 

[E Williams]

Glad it turned out the same.


That actually looks great as brushed steel. So that's what a Krylon clear coat does to the chrome pen finish. Have you tried misting the clear on for the first few coats before doing a full covering layer?

Yeah, that was with several very light coats. Blasting it with a heavy coat definitely alters the appearance more than that.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Cool. Good to know. You should try the misting technique with future floor polish, as I've seen examples that retain their mirror chrome look, when using that product.

 

[LoneWanderer]

I've been using this on and off to recolor small screws on projects to make them pop really well with that mirror shine. It works so well but as many others have said, it is a total nightmare if you plan on handling it at all as a prop. Screws have worked well for me because they rarely get touched but if you plan on using the markers on a handling surface, might as well forget it unless you're willing to lose the mirror effect with a clear coat. Trade offs for sure, it is still an incredibly awesome product with a nice finish but it is probably best reserved for display pieces or small surfaces.
Definitely recommend it but with the stipulation that you really cannot handle the painted surface ever again.

 

[Kylash]

Really hope they do a gold one next.

 

[E Williams]

Clamp is 3d printed with the round portion and bars covered with aluminum tape. The lever is chrome plated metal, but the clamp edges and the sections gripping the circuit card above the sidebars are painted with the Molotow, which is perfect for this application as it looks more like plated metal than aluminum.