Re: Moonraker stack in 1/72 (04/24/11 Update!)
Well, it has been awhile, but progress has been ongoing in my Moonraker stack project. I've spent the past couple weeks getting the External Tank and Solid Rocket Boosters finished and painted. Last night, I got them glued together on the support stand. I am using a similar support method for this build as my Atlantis stack as the completed model will sit on a glossy black display base that I purchased from a trophy shop. Many months ago, I measured off where the SRBs would sit and drilled two holes to accomodate a pair of 1/4" diameter pieces of music wire (one 36" piece of K&S wire, cut in half). For Atlantis, I used 3/16 pieces and I believe this resulted in an ever so slight lean in the stack when finished due to the rods flexing. I wanted to try and counteract that with this build.
The SRB exhaust cones had a couple brass tubes inserted and epoxied into them (5/16" diameter I believe, with the same inner diameter as the music wire rods). Next I installed the aft SRB segments.
Then came the External tank with the molded on aft field joint pieces. Same as the exhaust cones, I drilled holes to allow the brass tube to pass through and epoxied the lot together. While the glue dried, I made sure to slip on the SRB bodies to make sure everything was aligned properly while the glue dried. Next, I popped the bodies off and glued on a pair of centering rings made out of a dense foam material I had salvaged from a place I used to work at years ago. The rings feel kind of like a rice paper type foam pellet of some sort. They are rigid enough, yet flexible enough for my uses.
The centering rings were glued to the tops of the brass tubes (not close enough to risk getting glue on the music wire though) and slathered with epoxy (I used 30 minute type for this build). Then I dropped the SRB bodies back on and aligned everything before the glue dried. The epoxy in the foam was intended to help rigidize the rings in their final positions inside the SRBs for a nice straight and sturdy stack. The best part is though that I can slide the stack off the display stand whenever I want to for transport.
The bipod strut was made from music wire and styrene and also epoxied into the tank. I had to do this since the kit's original bipod was scrounged to replace a busted one on the Atlantis stack. But this new strut looks pretty accurate to the Moonraker one. As a side benefit, this new strut is much stronger than the old one and less likely to ever break. It also appears I can slip the orbiter on and off the stack without worrying about it breaking or sliding off. This should help with transporting the model as well.
You can also see the modifications made to the ET intertank in this picture. I believe Derek Meddings team used an Airfix 1/144 shuttle for a 3D reference for building the much bigger studio models as like the Airfix kit, the Moonrakers have no ribbing on the ET intertank (the assembly that joins the LOX and longer LHX tanks together on the ET). To duplicate this, I wrapped the ribbed intertank with a couple pieces of sheet styrene (.030 thickness I believe) and sanded it to shape. It was not easy as the glue I used caused the sheet to distort and sink where it crossed over a void. So at one point I had to drill in some vent holes and let the glue joints outgas before continuing my work. You will also note that this ET is smooth while the Monogram kit features a rough textured ET like the real shuttles. This took A LOT of sanding to remove and I looked like I had a massive cocaine binge at the end of it all. Some scratches from the rough grit paper I used still remain on the tank in spots, but the primer and paint reduced their appearance nicely.
In this photo, you can see the modified ET and SRB fronts. The SRBs were modified in similar manner to the ET to make them look less like flight hardware and more like model replicas. The Monogram cone tips feature a lot of recessed detail and it wasn't easy to remove it without wrecking the shapes of the cone tips. To make matters worse, these cone tips were resin casts, not styrene. So they were easier to over sand. When I acquired my first full stack kit, it was missing the original cone tips and Monogram no longer stocked them. So I made resin castings from a part a friend loaned me. When I built that first kit as Atlantis, I used a set of styrene cones from another kit, so I again ended up with a kit that was short two parts (which is one of the reasons I opted to build it as Moonraker in the first place).
My solution was to paint on several layers of Gunze Mr. Dissolved Putty and sand it flush with the raised detailing. When the details were mostly removed, I switched to Mr. Resin Primer, repeated and finally finished off with a couple coats of Mr. Surfacer 500. I was impressed with the final results.
For the paintwork, the base shade used is Tamiya TS-27 Matt White (same as the orbiter). I tried to accent portions of the SRBs with Tamiya US Navy Insignia white, but it was too dark and gray for my uses so I ended up misting on some Tamiya white primer over the top of the gray to fade these parts back to more of an off white shade. To duplicate the accent paneling and fading seen on the studio model, I masked off lines in spots and airbrused on Model Master flat white mixed with a drop or two of flat aluminum to get the proper look I wanted.