Order placed.. on to phase 2. Fingers crossed..
Solo’s ANH Droid Caller..
- Thread starter chubsANDdoggers
- Start date
Solo’s Bespin next up..
Thanks guys!! Simply seeing these blasters in 3d is very rewarding already.
Here’s Solo’s Bespin blaster. Luke’s should be pretty easy to make as well. Just need to modify the mount and light port a bit otherwise it’s basically the same.
For the serial numbers on this Bespin I put TESB release date on the scope and for the Mauser since it’s Solo’s I put Ford’s birth date. Seems appropriate enough..
For the serial numbers on this Bespin I put TESB release date on the scope and for the Mauser since it’s Solo’s I put Ford’s birth date. Seems appropriate enough..
And Luke’s Bespin with MH birth date for the serial number. The mount, light port and few other details separate this one from Solo’s. I added the extra greeblie which fell off sometime during production..
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Recently finished up a CAD drawing of the PS/RIA blaster and here’s some pics with it against the actual Hero prop CAD drawings for comparison. Top in each will be PS while bottom is the Hero for clarity..
EDIT: the back of the actual hero there is no clear images to know what is there. All that stamping is speculative..
EDIT: the back of the actual hero there is no clear images to know what is there. All that stamping is speculative..
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Thanks Carson. Truly. Its most definitely a fun obsession.
Anyone who plays with design in any format knows these projects are never truly finished. So many details to capture and many can be missed a long the way. Here’s one that originally slipped by me on the PS/RIA/imposter blaster..
One other detail I’m trying to work out is the inside (towards the mauser) of the top front scope ring. The screw is farther out and you can see that it broke through but it’s also been shaved down some as well. Trying to get a handle on it is a little tough though. Now if it was simply the RS blaster I wouldn‘t care so much but that part hasn’t changed in 44 plus years. It was the exact same on the OG Hero. This IMHO is one of the blessing of this new blaster coming to light. We get to see some hi res details we’ve never seen before. Take the good with the bad right..
One other detail I’m trying to work out is the inside (towards the mauser) of the top front scope ring. The screw is farther out and you can see that it broke through but it’s also been shaved down some as well. Trying to get a handle on it is a little tough though. Now if it was simply the RS blaster I wouldn‘t care so much but that part hasn’t changed in 44 plus years. It was the exact same on the OG Hero. This IMHO is one of the blessing of this new blaster coming to light. We get to see some hi res details we’ve never seen before. Take the good with the bad right..
Well I finally got the parts and I’m little defeated at the moment to be honest. My morale is a little low and the wind has been taken from sails a bit. First they didn’t ship all the parts. To be fair there is a LOT of them and some are really, really small. I do attach the small ones together and snip them apart when they arrive to try and minimalize this as much as possible but the grips screws simply didn’t arrive. They where never placed in the shipping box..
I’ll start with positive.
•The model itself that Carson was so generous in sharing is absolutely beautiful to see in person and perfectly in scale.
•In order for these prints to fit together I had to rescale them a bit and that worked out really well. Everything slid nicely into place for the most part.
•This next here was a really pleasant surprise. Simply learned that I can design the tap/die right into the models themselves. AND.. it works perfectly right out of the box!
•The Bull barrel/Flash hider idea honestly also works really well. I wanted it to be “lose” like the original prop but I didn’t want to to angle down.. only up. I also wanted to be able to rotate it so it would sit off center and all that worked out great.
•The sight also works as it should.. I do need to reworked the tolerance so the button itself works better but overall it’s nice.
•The Lockframe works as it should, including the safely.
•The grips themselves came out and attached really nicely to the Mauser itself. Just need those screws..
•I didn’t design the tap thread into the Mauser for mount holes but now I know I can which is great. But the positive here is I wasn’t sure if there would be enough material to hold the back screw. I tapped the hole the old fashioned way and then attached the screw itself. It holds just fine and without interfering with the Lockframe at all..
Now the negatives..
•Cost. This one is all me and I know what I’m getting into but still this print is over $200 alone. MJF is very expensive but it’s also really strong. Stronger than most realize I believe so it’s worth it on my end because I don’t have worry about it breaking. But because it’s so expensive I really wanted to get everything right this first time out of the gate. I’ve been sitting on ordering the parts for a little while now double checking everything as much as possible to minimize any issues. But unfortunately I did miss some important details.
•Trigger.. I didn’t take into account (or more importantly fully understand) how it actually works. In theory yes but practicality.. no. Trial and error but damn. The trigger doesn’t hit the hammer release mechanism unfortunately. So at this moment it does not work as it should. Ugh!
•The bolt slide. Carson mentioned how he modified his Mauser so it could not and would not be functional. One of the things I didn’t notice until the print arrived was how his slide worked. I didn’t realize It only goes back a little ways and is restricted by the design itself. I thought maybe I could modify by cutting some material away but no.. I’ll have to modify the design itself so the slide isn’t restricted.
•There is a few other minor issues like not having the lettering or numbers deep enough for them to really stand out but that’s to be expected with Nylon prints. With resin prints these details would come out crisp and perfect but for some reason the basic grey print doesn’t seem to capture as much detail as the black (which is simply a dyed grey). Maybe it’s the color itself but the Grey for what ever reason doesn’t seem to be as predominant..
I know the positive definitely outweighs the negative but I can’t help but feeling a little disappointed at the moment. Live and learn..
I’ll start with positive.
•The model itself that Carson was so generous in sharing is absolutely beautiful to see in person and perfectly in scale.
•In order for these prints to fit together I had to rescale them a bit and that worked out really well. Everything slid nicely into place for the most part.
•This next here was a really pleasant surprise. Simply learned that I can design the tap/die right into the models themselves. AND.. it works perfectly right out of the box!
•The Bull barrel/Flash hider idea honestly also works really well. I wanted it to be “lose” like the original prop but I didn’t want to to angle down.. only up. I also wanted to be able to rotate it so it would sit off center and all that worked out great.
•The sight also works as it should.. I do need to reworked the tolerance so the button itself works better but overall it’s nice.
•The Lockframe works as it should, including the safely.
•The grips themselves came out and attached really nicely to the Mauser itself. Just need those screws..
•I didn’t design the tap thread into the Mauser for mount holes but now I know I can which is great. But the positive here is I wasn’t sure if there would be enough material to hold the back screw. I tapped the hole the old fashioned way and then attached the screw itself. It holds just fine and without interfering with the Lockframe at all..
Now the negatives..
•Cost. This one is all me and I know what I’m getting into but still this print is over $200 alone. MJF is very expensive but it’s also really strong. Stronger than most realize I believe so it’s worth it on my end because I don’t have worry about it breaking. But because it’s so expensive I really wanted to get everything right this first time out of the gate. I’ve been sitting on ordering the parts for a little while now double checking everything as much as possible to minimize any issues. But unfortunately I did miss some important details.
•Trigger.. I didn’t take into account (or more importantly fully understand) how it actually works. In theory yes but practicality.. no. Trial and error but damn. The trigger doesn’t hit the hammer release mechanism unfortunately. So at this moment it does not work as it should. Ugh!
•The bolt slide. Carson mentioned how he modified his Mauser so it could not and would not be functional. One of the things I didn’t notice until the print arrived was how his slide worked. I didn’t realize It only goes back a little ways and is restricted by the design itself. I thought maybe I could modify by cutting some material away but no.. I’ll have to modify the design itself so the slide isn’t restricted.
•There is a few other minor issues like not having the lettering or numbers deep enough for them to really stand out but that’s to be expected with Nylon prints. With resin prints these details would come out crisp and perfect but for some reason the basic grey print doesn’t seem to capture as much detail as the black (which is simply a dyed grey). Maybe it’s the color itself but the Grey for what ever reason doesn’t seem to be as predominant..
I know the positive definitely outweighs the negative but I can’t help but feeling a little disappointed at the moment. Live and learn..
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Here just a bunch of phone pics (and vids) of the model itself..
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This was a nice surprise. I couldn’t figure out why the trigger wasn’t functioning as designed. Looking at the CAD file it theoretically should work as is. So after reopening up the model, to my surprise it wasn’t fully slid all the way into its rightful place. The space is small and the tolerance is tight. I also had to modify the design in hand a bit to get it in there but it simply wasn’t fully in place is all..
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Parts can still be modified a bit to tighten things up but it’s works!
Here’s some close ups taken with a better camera to show off some of the details..
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Still need those grip screws to finish but its almost there..
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