Nerf Gun Props? YES!

I have some questions:

To really get a good paint job, you would basically have to disasemble the weapon, correct? Especially anything that moves, such as opens or slides so that you can get paint into those stubborn areas.

For areas that do move after painting. Like clips, slides. trigger, etc, doesn't that paint wear down quickly? I would image that for the most part these would simply be display pieces and would not be functional unless you are willingot de repair work on the paint.

You have the basic idea of the ideal situation. Some guns are a real nightmare to disassemble, so when that's the case, I break out the painters tape and xacto knife! :) Rubbing parts can wear, but it's up to the maker to minimize how much is shows using really durable paint, plastic dye, etc.. They take extra time and it still won't eliminate all wear spots. It is better to use it sparingly and display more. Also, keep in mind that although paint is dry to the touch in about 15-20 on most paints, it's not cured for 24 hours or better. The better the drying time, the more resistant to wear it'll be.


Also watch out for thick paint around triggers. They will stick in the pulled position and that makes the gun difficult to use.

Good luck and have fun with the project!
 
Are you preping the object before hand? Such as light sanding and/or a thin coat of primer. I've known some paint to resist a bond and just flake away from the plastic.
 
Thanks JA! It's good to know even the pros are willing to take a look at n00b work XD
I just bought the spectre from wally world tonight, and i can already smell a Marine Pulse Rifle paint scheme......
 
Are you preping the object before hand? Such as light sanding and/or a thin coat of primer. I've known some paint to resist a bond and just flake away from the plastic.

For sure. You'd probably be impressed with the prep process. I've never had a single flaking issue, but it's always a possibility I guess. Luckily I sand down the entire body and use a self-etching primer that really grabs hold. The clearcoat also goes on slowly to keep the definition and the proper "luster" :)
 
Here's a few more!

Jayne's sidearm - Resin cast

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Commission work. This is going to be B-A :)

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Personal project update
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Almost ready for paint
Nerfpistolwithscope.jpg







Sharp Shot
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Great stuff everybody! I wanna paint some up for the summer while playin all day lol.

Fuelish, where'd u get the double barrel and the one underneath? I like how those look :D

The shotgun is a BuzzBee and the pistol is a clone trooper model with a couple of bits removed. You can get them from Target. The shot gun is great, good range, and the way it cocks and ejects shells is very cool.
 
Thanks JA! It's good to know even the pros are willing to take a look at n00b work XD
I just bought the spectre from wally world tonight, and i can already smell a Marine Pulse Rifle paint scheme......

Absolutely. I'll never think of myself as anything more than a guy who loves what he does :) I know where I started and when I see good work by others, I absolutely want to encourage the work. There are too many smaller movie and film makers out there who could use some more avenues to obtain good quality props. I wish you all the best and I want to see that pulse rifle when you're done!
 
Hi, I've been browsing this thread and you do great work. Apologies if you've mentioned this elsewhere and I missed it, but I was wondering what color/brand you like to use as your base gun metal color. (At least the one you use most often).
I'm talking about the base color, before you do your silver drybrushing/accents over it.
Thanks.
 
I discovered this thread about five days ago and seeing all of these customs have rekindled my dormant Nerf obsession. Much to my gf's dismay I think I have spent close to $300 on Nerf related items in the past 3 days. I found some extremely good deals on the Stampede and Vulcan at my local K-marts ($29.99 each). One store had the Longstrike marked down to $25 but they didn't have any in stock. I wanted to give you guys a heads up to check your local area if your interested in picking them up.

The Nerf gods have been very kind to Nerf fans the past few years and there have been some pretty cool looking AND very well designed guns released. If the upcoming Vortex line is any indication it can only get better.
 
Hi, I've been browsing this thread and you do great work. Apologies if you've mentioned this elsewhere and I missed it, but I was wondering what color/brand you like to use as your base gun metal color. (At least the one you use most often).
I'm talking about the base color, before you do your silver drybrushing/accents over it.
Thanks.

No problem! I use about 6 different flat and satin blacks depending on what's going on top. For the steel or silver colors I usually use rustolium professional in the taller silver cans. I do have a airspray gun, but I've found I can lay just as clean a base with the cans so I avoid the cleanup :)

Hope that helps. Sounds like you're a painter too!
 
I discovered this thread about five days ago and seeing all of these customs have rekindled my dormant Nerf obsession. Much to my gf's dismay I think I have spent close to $300 on Nerf related items in the past 3 days. I found some extremely good deals on the Stampede and Vulcan at my local K-marts ($29.99 each). One store had the Longstrike marked down to $25 but they didn't have any in stock. I wanted to give you guys a heads up to check your local area if your interested in picking them up.

The Nerf gods have been very kind to Nerf fans the past few years and there have been some pretty cool looking AND very well designed guns released. If the upcoming Vortex line is any indication it can only get better.

Thanks for the info! I usually avoid Kmart because their regular prices are too high. I'll take a look locally :)

If you have any photos of past guns, please post them up. If not, I expect photos of the new stuff! :)
 
Not Nerf but some toy repaints I felt turned out pretty well.

1. I had a small piece of the milled metal I used from above. I noticed that this looked a little similar to the holdout blaster Mara Jade uses. I decided to see what I could do to make a cheap and quick blaster prop.

I picked up a water gun from a $2.00 set at Target

I dremeled the old muzzle off and sanded it smooth. I then inserted and glued a woold dowel to support the new metal muzzle.

Once the Muzzle was in place, I added some allen screws and a dew washers to cover up some printing on the handle. The trigger was modified to look less watergun like.

I added a piece of a faucet spout to finsh off the inside of the barrel.

Once painted, I weathered with sandpaper and paint

holdoutblaster.jpg



2. I picked up a squirt gun for 50 cents and cut off some section and covering holes with thin scrap plastic. I went through my junk box and found an old brass turn knob that I machined a few years back to use for the trigger. I used a replica graflex glass eye holder in the barrel section with a piece of an old pen I stuck inside. Below that is a fake LED bezel from an old Larbel Obi saber.

I used several layers of paint and wet sanded each layer. The main color is a color called anodized bronze. It is a dark gray metallic color. I figured that too many people use black. Using that color allowed me to us a black wash as to create a weathered look and help pick up the details.

holdout.jpg


holdoutwatergun.jpg


3.
- Rubies Queen blaster
- Coleman butane lighter (new barrel and muzzle)
- hacksaw (remove old muzzle)
- sandpaper (remove seams and copyright text)
- superglue (to hold the new barrel in place)
- chrome paint
- bondo ( for the screw hole)
nabooblaster.jpg
 
Thanks, that helps a bit. But I was really wondering if there was a specific color you like for your gunmetal (when going for a steel/tactical look). I hate spending for a whole can, only to spray it for a sec and realize the color isn't right. So, anything specific in the Rustoleum professional that you reach for more often?

I've started doing some Nerf painting on a small scale. Just for myself, not to sell. I'll post pics when they're done. (Soon I hope. I've got several that are at the stage where they're ready for dry brushing).

One thing I've done that I find many nerf repainters don't, is I took the time to sand off all of the nerf logos and fill in all of the screw holes. I just think the overall look is much cleaner and more realistic that way.
Then again, it was a much bigger pain in the butt than I expected and I understand now why many folks skip that step. : )

I don't have an airbrush setup so it's all cans, rags and brushes for me.

As for cans, I recently tracked down some Krylon Fusion flat black. But I'm disappointed in it. It may stick well to plastic (we'll see) but I don't like the way it sprays. It sprays with a flat-ish stream and goes on too thick (or too thin) unless you're the exact right distance away. And it's hard to get it into the nooks and crannies without overspraying and creating drips.
Regular Rustoleum sprays in more of a cone-shaped stream like a traditional can, so I find it good for getting into hard to reach areas of the gun. (I'm lazy and don't always disassemble the gun before spraying).
I really like Duplicolor flat black primer (from the auto parts store). It also has a flat-style stream but much smoother than the Krylon Fusion, and seems to stick pretty well because it's primer.
One tip you're probably already aware of that I picked up from a friend:
For a black powder-coated look (like the barrel or other metal parts of a tactical gun), simply spray flat black, let it dry completely and then buff with a rag. The buffing will give it just a hint of a shine (though still way flatter than something like a satin black) and will look very similar to a real powder coat. (your results may vary depending on the paint used).
- J

No problem! I use about 6 different flat and satin blacks depending on what's going on top. For the steel or silver colors I usually use rustolium professional in the taller silver cans. I do have a airspray gun, but I've found I can lay just as clean a base with the cans so I avoid the cleanup :)

Hope that helps. Sounds like you're a painter too!
 
Not Nerf but some toy repaints I felt turned out pretty well.

1. I had a small piece of the milled metal I used from above. I noticed that this looked a little similar to the holdout blaster Mara Jade uses. I decided to see what I could do to make a cheap and quick blaster prop.

I picked up a water gun from a $2.00 set at Target

I dremeled the old muzzle off and sanded it smooth. I then inserted and glued a woold dowel to support the new metal muzzle.

Once the Muzzle was in place, I added some allen screws and a dew washers to cover up some printing on the handle. The trigger was modified to look less watergun like.

I added a piece of a faucet spout to finsh off the inside of the barrel.

Once painted, I weathered with sandpaper and paint




2. I picked up a squirt gun for 50 cents and cut off some section and covering holes with thin scrap plastic. I went through my junk box and found an old brass turn knob that I machined a few years back to use for the trigger. I used a replica graflex glass eye holder in the barrel section with a piece of an old pen I stuck inside. Below that is a fake LED bezel from an old Larbel Obi saber.

I used several layers of paint and wet sanded each layer. The main color is a color called anodized bronze. It is a dark gray metallic color. I figured that too many people use black. Using that color allowed me to us a black wash as to create a weathered look and help pick up the details.



3.
- Rubies Queen blaster
- Coleman butane lighter (new barrel and muzzle)
- hacksaw (remove old muzzle)
- sandpaper (remove seams and copyright text)
- superglue (to hold the new barrel in place)
- chrome paint
- bondo ( for the screw hole)


Very cool stuff, very creative! Thank you for posting the photos and info :)
 
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