...the phaser autopsy video. what phaser was that one ?
That's the Greg Jein, the only hero known to still exist.
Well, I was inspired by Myron, here are the guts of my Wand P1. My P1 body isn't actually welded, it's glued with cyanoacrylate (super glue). You can see some fogging on the plastic from the glue. I created and printed settings gauge graphics, the dimensions are roughly 3/4 x 5/16 in inches. Instead of scraping off the existing gauge graphics and masking the LED, I placed mine over the top of the existing graphics so the original settings still show through. The circuit board is only held in by the one plastic clip in the middle. The 2 clips near the bottom/back of the P1 circuit board are for the 6 pin connector. I am seriously impressed with all that went in to essentially a totally redesign the internals, the design so clean. The metal parts, while unpolished are awesome, not just a replica of the existing parts but a redesign, for example the 3 braces on the side rails . Nice work Wand Company.
Greg
View attachment 414214 View attachment 414215 View attachment 414216
Now that's interesting... Not 100% convinced about the nozzle position because of the angles of the photos, but the fin detail is obviously different, as are the fins themselves. And now I'm on the fence about the screws. Good stuff.I tapped the brass tab on my build, because I thought it was more elegant than gluing a nut on it. Maybe that's where you got the thought.
Three clues. GJ and Finney have different nozzle positions, Finney must be 1/8in higher.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r219/robn1/Hero Phaser/gj-finney_zps567eafb2.jpg
GJ fin cut out is more square on the left side, and the release pin hole is larger.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r219/robn1/Hero Phaser/gj-finneyfins_zpsc46d70d2.jpg
And the cracked tower happened when it was a B&W, the break is visible through the window in "Charlie X".
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r219/robn1/Hero Phaser/bampwgj-break_zps58139464.jpg
The King does have the side ribs, it's obvious in motion but very faint in stills. The light is washing out the shadows.
And I'm convinced on the double screws, these marks are too much alike to be anything else.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/...onscience-leftscrew-rearscrew_zps34e0b648.jpg
That is how I got mine for 250.00. They thought it didn't work, but turned out to be the handle connection. lol!!! My 100.00 mr tricorder was just a missing magnet in the head.LOL..I must have been "prophetic"..Just saw an MR sell for $685.00 on 12/7/2014...he did say it works intermittently, and belivies it is the handle, but it does work...item #
351242019032, and you all know what site it sold on, I'm sure...Not sure if I can say the here or not..
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Has anyone had theirs act up? I just got this second one from ThinkGeek today, and the knob seemed hard to turn while going through the various settings, and suddenly I notice that the pistol emitter wasn't lighting up, and the P1 emitter was. Turning the knob didn't change the setting, and it kept lighting the P1 emitter. I turn it on and off, and it finally started working. It did it again just a minute ago, plus, while going through the settings while checking it out, it gave me bridge computer sounds, and also the female program voice said "Sorry". Excellent.
I noticed the prievious one did the P1 emitter thing a couple of times too, but seemed to work after that. Has anyone else had any weird issues with theirs similar to this?
I also noticed the crystal knob on this one rattles, whereas the other one didn't. Seems they'd all fit the same, being formed the same.
Has anyone had theirs act up? I just got this second one from ThinkGeek today, and the knob seemed hard to turn while going through the various settings, and suddenly I notice that the pistol emitter wasn't lighting up, and the P1 emitter was. Turning the knob didn't change the setting, and it kept lighting the P1 emitter. I turn it on and off, and it finally started working. It did it again just a minute ago, plus, while going through the settings while checking it out, it gave me bridge computer sounds, and also the female program voice said "Sorry". Excellent.
I noticed the prievious one did the P1 emitter thing a couple of times too, but seemed to work after that. Has anyone else had any weird issues with theirs similar to this?
I also noticed the crystal knob on this one rattles, whereas the other one didn't. Seems they'd all fit the same, being formed the same.
...However, doesn't this screen cap appear to show the crack on the Finney phaser? Looks like it to me. That would mean they're the same prop, not two different ones.
View attachment 414234
One of the pitfalls with overseas manufacturing..any company that contracts work here, can't periodically visit to check quality control..They can actually, but don't..
So far , my only issue was the first previous one I got in, the metal nozzle, was obviously assembled crooked, causing the beam emitter to be crooked, hnce the telescoping beam emitter didn't work right due to that, the trigger was crooked, and the dilithium crystal cell door wouldn't open...however, all electronics worked well..The only issue with my replacement that I received yesterday seems to be a somewhat loose wobbly inner tube in the beam emitter...Not a big enough issue to send it back, unless it falls out within the 90 day warranty..my guess is it wont...I would recommend you send it back..If the electronics aren't reliable this early on, I wouldn't take the chance of keeping it..
...Be interesting if there were 3 p1s though. Maybe one day we'll know for sure..