Snowspeeder build. 3D print w/ a little scratch build fun

Thank you SK. Been playing with scribes the last few days deciding on width and depth.

Below from top to bottom is .6mm wide, .4mm and 1.0mm. Each sample has 2, 4, 6, 8 & 10 strokes top to bottom. All were then Primed + sand then re-prime.

Looking for the best for this scale.

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I tend to think 1.0mm @ 10 strokes for all main lines and maybe .6mm for the minor lines.

Any guidance from the experts on this?
 
Thank you SK. Been playing with scribes the last few days deciding on width and depth.

Below from top to bottom is .6mm wide, .4mm and 1.0mm. Each sample has 2, 4, 6, 8 & 10 strokes top to bottom. All were then Primed + sand then re-prime.

Looking for the best for this scale.

View attachment 1766185

I tend to think 1.0mm @ 10 strokes for all main lines and maybe .6mm for the minor lines.

Any guidance from the experts on this?
I think you've got it;)(y)
 
Top stroke line on the bottom card is the one my eye likes best -- I "think" that's the one you're saying, but visually it looks like the bottom card has thinner strokes than the two cards above it.

I'm not a pro, but I would say go with what "looks closest" to your own satisfaction, even though that's a bit of a fudgey answer. Does anyone know what tool/s they used for scribing lines back in 1979 ILM days for the Snow speeder? I don't even know what tools were available back then in terms of scribing, so imagine it was likely just an Exacto knife or similar.
 
Well I went for it…. About 5 hours later and the bottom is done. Tedious for sure.

After primer

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Top is raw after carving.
Mid is primer then carve on printed material
Bottom is carving dealer after primer.

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Closer.

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Doing some research and found this. Really like this for the air intake. My body is not deep enough so mods needed.

We will see…

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And some cool patent images. This hangs in my office at work.

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Rear bottom center detailing this weekend. Tedious work. Must have done the engine intake plate 4 times.

Using washers for the round parts and koolshade for the intake vent.


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Test fit the engine grill as well. I ended up cutting the tips off the body to allow the fins to fit.

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Did some sanding to the top. Amazingly how wonky it was. A few layers of primer and it was flat again.

Hmmm. That is the Makings of a cool Endor camouflage scheme…

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Working on the armature mount. This is not going to work.

I think I’ll make an aluminum plate for the whole cockpit base to help take the moment loads and attach a threaded ferrel to the plate.

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Working on the front fins. How do you guys make duplicates of small parts. Very tedious work sanding each to try and match the original. Got to be a better way.

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Working on the armature mount. This is not going to work.

I think I’ll make an aluminum plate for the whole cockpit base to help take the moment loads and attach a threaded ferrel to the plate.

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Working on the front fins. How do you guys make duplicates of small parts. Very tedious work sanding each to try and match the original. Got to be a better way.

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You can make a mould of them.

With all this work that you did to fix the original 3d print, it seems like you might as well started off scratch building one.

TazMan2000
 
With all this work that you did to fix the original 3d print, it seems like you might as well started off scratch building one.

TazMan2000

Thanks Tazman. Molding is the way i was thinking but though there may be some other trick out there.

Ya... That ship sailed so i will see this to the end. Fortunately most of the "mounted to the body" 3D parts are very usable. Just the body has been a pain.
 
Thanks Tazman. Molding is the way i was thinking but though there may be some other trick out there.

Ya... That ship sailed so i will see this to the end. Fortunately most of the "mounted to the body" 3D parts are very usable. Just the body has been a pain.

Well, you could get someone to print them on a resin printer. They wouldn't be hard to design since they are just a 3d polygon.

TazMan2000
 
I have a resin printer and for sure easy to design. But…

Printed a bunch with my Eligoo mars about 10 weeks ago and not super impressed. All of them have warped and/or cracked using their standard resin. Have a bit to learn before I try that again.

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I have a resin printer and for sure easy to design. But…

Printed a bunch with my Eligoo mars about 10 weeks ago and not super impressed. All of them have warped and/or cracked using their standard resin. Have a bit to learn before I try that again.

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When you do a pattern fill on the inside, do you ensure that you have drain holes? You have to drain and wash out all that excess uncured resin or else you may get cracks later on. After washing it out completely, let it sit in the sun in a plastic container, while the heat and the UV allow the alcohol and remaining resin to leak out and cure.

Also, you may want to turn up your cure time a second or more.

TazMan2000
 
Thank you TazMan2000. I will give those ideas a try. I am super new at resin. I know i had drain issues so i drilled holes in the parts after the fact to help them drain then left them outside in the sun to cure. Did not know about a box though. Guess i will have to do some more playing as i am going to need those parts soon.
 
Top plating done. Not that much.

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Forgot the shark gills on the bottom.

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Question. Seems to me like the center front of the ship should have details for a landing gear or something. Anyone know anything?

Did another top level test fit to mark things out.

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Detailed out the back engine area and drilled out the rear Gun to put a pivot pin in there.

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Re-printing a bunch of parts now.
 
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