Powering? I’m sorry Steve, I’m not sure I understand your question... I’m planning on using a pair of li-ion batteries, but are asking what I’m using to “drive” the 8mm LED light bars?
Thanks — James
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Star Trek III through VI Tricorder
- Thread starter BajaTym
- Start date
Powering? I’m sorry Steve, I’m not sure I understand your question... I’m planning on using a pair of li-ion batteries, but are asking what I’m using to “drive” the 8mm LED light bars?
Thanks — James
I should also say, things have been slow going lately, not because I’ve lost interest, but because of time constraints. Things should clear up considerably after today, but who knows. With life it’s either my health, kids, or those other things that get in the way (honey do list).
With the little time I’ve had, I’ve designed a speaker mount and various PCBs for the LEDs and internals. As for the PCBs, I’ve been having a ton of issues etching them and have just decided to forgo anything custom for now. Let’s just say my skills are RUSTY... no, more like seriously corroded. After this build I’m going to dedicate some serious effort to redevelop my more valued skills before my next project. Anyway, so instead of custom PCBs I’m just going to use standard sized prototyping/vector boards. I was anticipating some skill degradation and factored in their spacing when laying out the LED and button openings.
Additionally, right now I’m still working on the disc device by hunting for the perfect color of paint. The photos of the screen used SFS prop look more grey than silver, so I’m not sure yet (I’m happy to hear suggestions). In addition to painting the disc I’ve refinished the entire surface of the prop (several times over now). I wasn’t happy with the numerous paint imperfections I kept having, seam lines that show up from nowhere, and the couple of visible print lines that magically appear in random places each time I repaint. Unfortunately I’ve painted this thing 3 times and while some areas look much better, others look worse. Frankly I’ve never enjoyed painting, the cleanup and surface flaws it highlights have always flustered me. I’d say that back in the day (20+ years ago... [emoji51]) I was okay at painting and could hold my own on simple jobs, but it’s been so long since I’ve worked on anything I’m having to relearn most everything.
Furthermore, I still need to reassemble the electronic components and hope the schematics I made are accurate.
So much to do...
...which reminds me, I still need to figure out how to extend the screen from its PBC backing. I purchased a ribbon cable extension, but when I run the signal through the female connector it no longer works. I’m considering removing the “middle woman” (female-female) connector and just soldering the to cable together. This will be tough due to their micro size, but it is possible. I have a hot air station and solder paste, but time will tell if I have the skill.
I’ll try to make my next post more interesting by adding photos... because we all know “photos or it never happened!”
Cheers — James
[emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji41]
With the little time I’ve had, I’ve designed a speaker mount and various PCBs for the LEDs and internals. As for the PCBs, I’ve been having a ton of issues etching them and have just decided to forgo anything custom for now. Let’s just say my skills are RUSTY... no, more like seriously corroded. After this build I’m going to dedicate some serious effort to redevelop my more valued skills before my next project. Anyway, so instead of custom PCBs I’m just going to use standard sized prototyping/vector boards. I was anticipating some skill degradation and factored in their spacing when laying out the LED and button openings.
Additionally, right now I’m still working on the disc device by hunting for the perfect color of paint. The photos of the screen used SFS prop look more grey than silver, so I’m not sure yet (I’m happy to hear suggestions). In addition to painting the disc I’ve refinished the entire surface of the prop (several times over now). I wasn’t happy with the numerous paint imperfections I kept having, seam lines that show up from nowhere, and the couple of visible print lines that magically appear in random places each time I repaint. Unfortunately I’ve painted this thing 3 times and while some areas look much better, others look worse. Frankly I’ve never enjoyed painting, the cleanup and surface flaws it highlights have always flustered me. I’d say that back in the day (20+ years ago... [emoji51]) I was okay at painting and could hold my own on simple jobs, but it’s been so long since I’ve worked on anything I’m having to relearn most everything.
Furthermore, I still need to reassemble the electronic components and hope the schematics I made are accurate.
So much to do...
...which reminds me, I still need to figure out how to extend the screen from its PBC backing. I purchased a ribbon cable extension, but when I run the signal through the female connector it no longer works. I’m considering removing the “middle woman” (female-female) connector and just soldering the to cable together. This will be tough due to their micro size, but it is possible. I have a hot air station and solder paste, but time will tell if I have the skill.
I’ll try to make my next post more interesting by adding photos... because we all know “photos or it never happened!”
Cheers — James
[emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji481][emoji41]
Sorry, I somehow missed your question. I purchased the lugs online from DAG Camera Parts. It actually took a while to fine them. Anyway, I updated post #14 of this thread with a direct link to the item, they're currently $3 per lug/ea. When I ordered mine, the shipping was super fast, they only took 3 day to get here (ordered on day 1, received on day 3).
For this build I'm using a 4017 IC to sequence them and an Arduino for the clock (timer). If you're not using an Arduino, just use a 555 IC (timer) for the clock and then you can control the speed with a resister.
Does that help?
the_doctor
New Member
Keep up the brilliant work. I think any of my efforts will be shameful in comparison!
Oh the torment and dilemma I’ve caused myself… the stressors of being a perfectionist geek.
So, I’ve finalized the disk design, and the color (aluminum on the left -vs- light gun metal on the right). I chose the aluminum. I think it most accurately reflects the color of the original.
I’ve squeezed the internals into the body:
Power switch, charging port, battery charging board, li-ion battery, Arduino nano, Adafruit FX board, Adafruit amp, speaker, 2017 IC (2ea), SD card reader, 1.5” screen, spring mechanism, latching mechanism, 10-segment LED array (2ea), four square diodes, ten individual LEDs (for the back 10-segment array), and all of this while leaving enough room for the scanning head to close… and lets not forget the buttons and all of the wires! I made several attempts at a DYI PCB, but I’m way out of practice.
Here's a big image dump of what I've been doing...
Big breath... Anyway, I sat down this morning ready to get to work, but instead of pressing forward I felt like taking a step back. At which point I took a long look at what I’ve accomplished and have reluctantly decided that I need to STOP and START OVER.
It’s not an easy decision, considering the time I’ve spent working on it. But in hindsight I should’ve done everything up to this point as prep prior to actually creating my post. I’m just going to consider this particular build as a testbed/prep, a version 1.0 if you will. So I guess everything from here UP has become my “Official Movie-era Tricorder Prototyping Thread” and it’s now officially fulfilled it function. I'll just say that everything prior to this moment has given me the information I'll need to start a new and more accurate build, a so called version 2.0.
At this point I’m not sure if I'll start a new post or continue here, I’ll have to think about it. More to come my friends.
--James
So, I’ve finalized the disk design, and the color (aluminum on the left -vs- light gun metal on the right). I chose the aluminum. I think it most accurately reflects the color of the original.
I’ve squeezed the internals into the body:
Power switch, charging port, battery charging board, li-ion battery, Arduino nano, Adafruit FX board, Adafruit amp, speaker, 2017 IC (2ea), SD card reader, 1.5” screen, spring mechanism, latching mechanism, 10-segment LED array (2ea), four square diodes, ten individual LEDs (for the back 10-segment array), and all of this while leaving enough room for the scanning head to close… and lets not forget the buttons and all of the wires! I made several attempts at a DYI PCB, but I’m way out of practice.
Here's a big image dump of what I've been doing...
Big breath... Anyway, I sat down this morning ready to get to work, but instead of pressing forward I felt like taking a step back. At which point I took a long look at what I’ve accomplished and have reluctantly decided that I need to STOP and START OVER.
It’s not an easy decision, considering the time I’ve spent working on it. But in hindsight I should’ve done everything up to this point as prep prior to actually creating my post. I’m just going to consider this particular build as a testbed/prep, a version 1.0 if you will. So I guess everything from here UP has become my “Official Movie-era Tricorder Prototyping Thread” and it’s now officially fulfilled it function. I'll just say that everything prior to this moment has given me the information I'll need to start a new and more accurate build, a so called version 2.0.
At this point I’m not sure if I'll start a new post or continue here, I’ll have to think about it. More to come my friends.
--James
I'd say continue. It's all part of a single throughline. I'm looking forward to 2.0 and should have a screen suggestion or three for you within the next couple days.
Thanks for the advice, I’m leaning that way. I also found a 1.3” screen that looks promising. I ordered one, but trimmed a little too much off the board and killed it. I’ve ordered a new one and will still need to play with it, but I’m almost positive it’ll work.
— James
greatwazoo42
Master Member
The spring assembly on that is a toilet paper holder? Brilliant! I've used them for give away sonic screwdriver builds over the years.
Yep, just seemed like a good idea. It works pretty awesome, just not screen accurate. I like the functionality, push down and the lid pops up, push down and the lid closes.
Sonic?! That’s brilliant itself. Now every time I see one that’s all I’ll see.
Thanks — James
greatwazoo42
Master Member
More accurate than you think. Instead of putting a spring in a syringe and hot gluing it into place you used a prefab assembly that performs the same function.
True, but I was thinking more of the release/retaining mech.
i found this website Star Trek Blueprints: Starfleet Officer Requirements - Volume I if you scroll down on page 36 they have dimensions for the star trek 3 tricoder
Very interesting, I’ll have to compare the measurements to my notes and photos. I remember seeing this in paper form YEARS ago.
Oh, God, that thing. 
A mishmash of some good reference, a lot of '80s-vintage fanfic, an almost completely wrong rank chart, and some truly horrible drawings of the uniforms and phasers. I don't think I'd trust the proportions/dimensions of the communicator or tricorder, but am open to being pleasantly surprised. 
A mishmash of some good reference, a lot of '80s-vintage fanfic, an almost completely wrong rank chart, and some truly horrible drawings of the uniforms and phasers. I don't think I'd trust the proportions/dimensions of the communicator or tricorder, but am open to being pleasantly surprised.
Oh, God, that thing.
Yep, it's full of odd old-school (80's era) fan guess work and fiction. I'm doubtful I'll find anything I haven't already seen or that's new/useful. I'm just thankful that nevets was thoughtful enough to toss in the recommendation.
Agreed. I was just saying to not implicitly trust their figures or proportions. Especially given how badly they represented other things that were visible in TWOK and TSFS like the flag ranks a d Saavik's service bar. I have the Line Officers Requirements along with Shane Johnson's Uniform Reference Manual, FASA's movie sourcebook supplements, the Federation Reference Series, and umpteen zillion other reference books, all the way back to FJ's Constitution plans and Star Fleet Technical Manual, Star Trek Maps, and The Spaceflight Chronology. There is good reference out there for a lot. I didn't suggest this one earlier because I don't trust it, for the reasons I listed. And you have a nice casting and good reference already, so...
