Benjo
Well-Known Member
I'm also 99% sure, the handle is off on the DST/HMS: too thick and "square"
STAR TREK- TMP wrist communicators (...and now with more TMP goodies!)
- Thread starter Gregatron
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Agreed. I’m already working to modify that.
Tweaking dimension and playing with the ribs.
I also find myself wondering what lineage, if any, the HMS/DST version shares with the screenused props. I have the sneaking suspicion that they just recreated the prop from images, which would explain why some of the shapes and proportions are so different.
I also find myself wondering what lineage, if any, the HMS/DST version shares with the screenused props. I have the sneaking suspicion that they just recreated the prop from images, which would explain why some of the shapes and proportions are so different.
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Benjo
Well-Known Member
For what it worth, I also ended up having the strong conviction the HMS was recreated from scratch.
As said above, the whole handle/lower part is thicker and doesn't match any of the originals.
The main body is also too sharp in details while the originals are more soft. The top profile of the main body is more curvy than the originals and the top is also too flat when viewed from the front while the originals are more rounded.
The distance between the trigger bump and the emitter nozzle front end looks too short.
The originals were vacuum formed so all these details can vary from one model to another but the HMS still looks rather different.
On the other hand, the HMS looks handmade and still really close when compared to some of the TMP phaser pictures so I'm still not 100% sure.
And this is why my goal has basically been to recreate the HMS shape as a foundation, then modify it based on the images of the real props.
Meanwhile, I found an easy way to get the ribbing to properly hug the contours of the body. On the originals, it looks like they glued half-round or strip styrene onto the body form, then sanded it down to hug the lines of the body. The ribs therefore actually have a flat cross-section, not a rounded one.
HMS certainly had some vacuum form phaser pulls from Brick Price at one point as I remember photos popping up in various discussions. It may be a similar situation to the TMP tricorder? IE reference taken from the original BP pulls but an original sculpt. And yes, HMS provided reference pieces to DST, who followed them to varying degrees.
Interesting.
As it is, I have a DST to use for basic measurements and reference, but no confirmed measurements of an original (or even a casting), unlike the communicator and tricorder.
And then there are the variants of the props as seen in the vintage reference images. For example, the photo of two hero props being shown off by the prop team, with one phaser clearly having a much taller dilithium crystal ring/collar than the other.
More fine-tuning.
The handle continues to be the hardest part. On the real props, the handle actually tapers slightly, and is wider at the rear than at the front. Replicating that AND the tapered strip that runs along the bottom of the main body is really, really tricky.
Also, I think that elongating the body might be the wrong approach. Shortening the handle (which causes it to sit back further) seems to be the trick.
The handle continues to be the hardest part. On the real props, the handle actually tapers slightly, and is wider at the rear than at the front. Replicating that AND the tapered strip that runs along the bottom of the main body is really, really tricky.
Also, I think that elongating the body might be the wrong approach. Shortening the handle (which causes it to sit back further) seems to be the trick.
Yeah.,,the handle is a strange shape, to say the least.
Dont forget the “dimples” near the base of the handle.
Here’s a build-up I have that was built from Brick Price lineage shells that shows the “dimples”:
Dont forget the “dimples” near the base of the handle.
Here’s a build-up I have that was built from Brick Price lineage shells that shows the “dimples”:
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Yes, I'm aware of the pinky-rest divots. I just want to get the basic handle locked down, first.
Also--question: How do those lineage shells compare to the HMS/DST in terms of shape and dimensions?
Meanwhile, I've been studying the various iterations of this prop. At least one fan-build replicated the touch on-off setting lights on the control pad, which is astonishing.
As with the hero-dummy tricorders, I have to decide whether or not to include those brass hex-screw touch-pads on my replicas.
I'm inclined to omit them from the tricorder, in the interest of idealization, but I kinda associate them more with the hero phaser, so I should probably include them.
And there's also the matter of whether or not to add am inscribed separation line on the phaser, or actually design it to separate. Some props went one way, and some the other.
Meanwhile, I've been studying the various iterations of this prop. At least one fan-build replicated the touch on-off setting lights on the control pad, which is astonishing.
As with the hero-dummy tricorders, I have to decide whether or not to include those brass hex-screw touch-pads on my replicas.
I'm inclined to omit them from the tricorder, in the interest of idealization, but I kinda associate them more with the hero phaser, so I should probably include them.
And there's also the matter of whether or not to add am inscribed separation line on the phaser, or actually design it to separate. Some props went one way, and some the other.
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Benjo
Well-Known Member
I have asked someone who owns what he claims to be two phaser vacform shells from BP molds on the FB page "Star Trek props enthousiasts".
He said: " the shells and the diamond phasers are extremely close. HMS had a set of the shells and I'm pretty sure they had access to hero phasers from both films to do the prototype"
The work continues. I remain somewhat unconvinced that the HMS/DST is dead-on to the TMP/TWOK props. Certain shapes and curves don’t quite match up. It seems more like. “close enough” approximation (with a few cheats), based on measurements of originals.
As noted, I began by creating a model based on measurements of the DTS, which I’ve tweaked based on photos of the real TMP/TWOK heroes and stunts. The dummies from both films look pretty spot-on to the heroes, in terms of shape and proportions. The DST seems a bit too thick and boxy, in places.
Here’s where we’re at. The handle is a stand-in, based on the overall shape of the reference photos. Certain details (like the size/diameter/height of the crystal) don’t match between the DTS and the reference images, so I’ve been tweaking them.
The handle continues to vex me. I’m reasonably convinced that the original Brick Price bucks had an added piece inserted into the rear elbow joint to serve as a plug/thumbrest (circled, below).
It’s easy enough to extrude the basic shape of the handle, and to fillet the front and rear edges. The real problem comes in with the strip that extends from the handle on the underside of the body. It tapers, AND has a curved cross-section, AND has flat sides. And, as previously noted, the handle itself tapers toward the front leading edge.
As noted, I began by creating a model based on measurements of the DTS, which I’ve tweaked based on photos of the real TMP/TWOK heroes and stunts. The dummies from both films look pretty spot-on to the heroes, in terms of shape and proportions. The DST seems a bit too thick and boxy, in places.
Here’s where we’re at. The handle is a stand-in, based on the overall shape of the reference photos. Certain details (like the size/diameter/height of the crystal) don’t match between the DTS and the reference images, so I’ve been tweaking them.
The handle continues to vex me. I’m reasonably convinced that the original Brick Price bucks had an added piece inserted into the rear elbow joint to serve as a plug/thumbrest (circled, below).
It’s easy enough to extrude the basic shape of the handle, and to fillet the front and rear edges. The real problem comes in with the strip that extends from the handle on the underside of the body. It tapers, AND has a curved cross-section, AND has flat sides. And, as previously noted, the handle itself tapers toward the front leading edge.
You're trying to replicate something that was sculpted by hand, but you're using geometric shapes. I'm good at modeling things that are composed of geometric shapes, but when it gets into the area of organic shapes, I'm worthless. In those situations I try to get as close as I can 3D modeling, I print it out, and then I sculpt over it using putty, Bondo, whatever...
Yes, I’ve considered getting the basic forms down, then taking things the rest of the way with putty and sanding.
But I appreciate the challenge of trying to get it as close as possible in the 3D modeling realm.
Meanwhile, with the death of Shapeways (and on the recommendation of RPF member DexAntares for my Green Lantern ring project), I’ve explored Craftcloud as an alternative for rapid prototyping. Huge range of materials and production companies to choose from.
To that end, I’ve ordered the following in cheap PLA to get a feel for where the models are at:
Three versions of the wrist comm—Dummy Hero (left, with an extra 2mm added to the rear, to see how a thicker comm looks), Dummy (center, the standard model I’ve been working with), and Resin Dummy (the modified model based on the shape of the resin Ilia and “7” auction comms).
Only the first two have final detailing and the slot cut in the rear for a wristband. This test is more about comparing the variants and determining the best shape and proportions.
The flip-top hero tricorder, with separate grip pads, flip-head, data card door, and a sample data card.
I’ve also lined up some 0.50mm steel axle rods to install for testing the pivot action of the flip-head and the chip compartment door,
All this for $100, and they should be arriving within a week or two. Not too shabby.
I have to say, after two years since beginning this project, it’s very exciting to have actual physical prototypes on the way!
To that end, I’ve ordered the following in cheap PLA to get a feel for where the models are at:
Three versions of the wrist comm—Dummy Hero (left, with an extra 2mm added to the rear, to see how a thicker comm looks), Dummy (center, the standard model I’ve been working with), and Resin Dummy (the modified model based on the shape of the resin Ilia and “7” auction comms).
Only the first two have final detailing and the slot cut in the rear for a wristband. This test is more about comparing the variants and determining the best shape and proportions.
The flip-top hero tricorder, with separate grip pads, flip-head, data card door, and a sample data card.
I’ve also lined up some 0.50mm steel axle rods to install for testing the pivot action of the flip-head and the chip compartment door,
All this for $100, and they should be arriving within a week or two. Not too shabby.
I have to say, after two years since beginning this project, it’s very exciting to have actual physical prototypes on the way!
Working on the control panel. Of course, I’m sort of already halfway there, in that I’ve designed the decals for the tricorder, which were also used on the dummy phasers.
However, in the case of the hero design, clear resin/acrylic/whatever was in place of the square, gold buttons on the decal sheet, and the central buttons appear to have been cut brass sheet.
So, in theory, I should design a clear resin insert which snaps into the black frame, plugs into the phaser body, and is then topped with the brass sheet buttons. I’ll also need to cut holes for the hex-head screws.
However, in the case of the hero design, clear resin/acrylic/whatever was in place of the square, gold buttons on the decal sheet, and the central buttons appear to have been cut brass sheet.
So, in theory, I should design a clear resin insert which snaps into the black frame, plugs into the phaser body, and is then topped with the brass sheet buttons. I’ll also need to cut holes for the hex-head screws.
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