Stargate G.D.O.
- Thread starter jason1976
- Start date
the pics you posted above are really good, and show the LED set up, very well. The light looks like it has a blue-ish color, but then a lot of times white LEDs, will do that on camera.
The EL sheet I have on the way, is white, but can appear a little blue-ish on camera like that, so it might be a good way to go. It would be one thin piece about the thickness of a greeting card. It could be cut to fight behind both the buttons, and screen. It would take up a lot less space then the LEDS, it would give a more even light, and it would be a lot less work to set it up. (less wiring, less soldering, less everything.) I'm really surprised they didn't just go that way for the show. They really went over board, and put way too much work to get a lesser effect.
Not that theirs doesn't look awesome, I 'm just saying they could have saved themselves a lot of time, expense, and work.
exoray
Master Member
jason1976 said:
Easier is debatable, I could design, etch and build that entire board in about an hour from stuff I have on hand if I was giving the job from the studio... And that is likely what happened with the guy giving the task, he used what he had on his desk...
As for expensive, it's hardly 'expensive' by any means the unetched copper clad PC board cost about $1, surface mount LEDs about 30 cents each, 5mm LEDs about 30 cents each, switch $1, resistors all combined maybe 15 cents, battery holders $1...
So the total out of pocket cost less labor, comes in at about $7 to build the electronics as seen... Labor and design is the only real cost factor...
Stitch said:
Use a real back lit LCD, they are dirt cheap for small ones and it appears there is enough room... The cost increases of course but you will get a real LCD with the ability to change text... You would obviously have to deviate a little bit from 'screen accurate' though as you might not be able to find the 'exact' size LCD to fill the entire void and get all that extra blank space around the text... But who knows the proper sized LCD might be out there, it just would have to be located...
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I truly have the utmost respect for what your saying, and your may be right about the screen used on being done cheeper, for them to do that way. However, you are looking at it from the point of view of a professional electrician. YOU may be able to do it in an hour. YOU may be able to do it for around $7. YOU may be able to do it with a real screen. That's all great, and if you did all that YOU probably would charge over $100. (probably way over) for just the electronic set up. (prop shell sold separately)
For the average joe, none of this would be the case. You would have to walk into a place (or go to a site) like Radioshack. (because you don't need 1,000 LEDs, so you wont get the balk rate an electrician might get at a different place. ) You would spend about $4.00 for a switch (there might be more then one in the pack, but you would have to apy that to get the one you need, if they even have one that size.) Then $3. for a pack of 2 white LEDs (times like 6 so that's $24. just for the LEDs.) You might get a little bit of a deal, but probably nothing less then $12. for all the LEDs. The board would cast you lets say $4.00 Battery holder another $3. etc. etc. In the end you would have $25.-$36. all total, and then you (meaning the rest of us) would have an expensive pile of stuff we have no idea how to do anything with. (and I have no idea where you would even get the screen your talking about, but I'm guessing the rest of us, would have no idea how to set that up.)
I mean, you can get the EL sheet I'm talking about for like $12. on ebay with free shipping. (and an electrician could probably get it much, much cheeper.) It comes pre-wired, so all you have to do is add a battery holder, and a battery, and your set. (and mine could be done in like 5 minutes, and that's with opening the package that came in the mail, with your EL sheet) A blind mucky could do it. I know, because I am half blind, and kind of a mucky. :lol
So, yeah, if you have mad skills, and a fully stocked electricians work shop, and a source with what you need cheep, and maybe some luck, then yes your/there way may be good. (I'm not going to say better) but if you have none of these things, my way is much cheeper, and easier, for the average joe.
exoray
Master Member
The 'average' Joe was not in the frame of reference that I quoted, the quotes were in reference to the original prop design and the Prop Shops choice of LEDs over other options to build the units used on screen... For the Prop Shop the EL was likely neither easier or cheaper...
Maybe $100 for a one off rushed job for someone... But, that is not to say what I would 'sell' it for if I was doing a run of them or what not, a run of any considerable number would lower the per unit cost and allow for first quality PC boards to be manufactured vs home etched... A statically lit LED project like this could be made for very reasonable, far bellow $100...
The average Joe didn't build that prop for the studio...
It's not like the average Joe is going to walk into Rat Shack and get EL light for $12, or even any EL light at all...
The prices I quoted were pretty much full retail to the public at an online supply house off the top of my head, not 1000 piece bulk orders... Trust me the price drops significantly in 1000 piece orders, to bulk purchasers...
So here are some exact prices, using current Mouser.com prices with a quick browse of the catalog...
Unetched copper clad PC board 3x5 ~ 1@$3.30
Larger SMD white LED ~ 1@ $0.33
5mm White LED ~ 1@ $0.43
SMD resistors ~ 1@ $.04
Small Toggle Switch ~ 1@ $1.70
2 cell AAA Battery Holder ~ 1@ $0.73
So lets break it down...
Appears to be 4 resistors = $0.16
Large SMD white LED x8 = $2.64
5mm White LED x3 = $1.29
Small Toggle Switch $1.70
2 cell AA battery holder $0.73
Copper clad board $3.30
Grand total $9.82 for a single unit, but with likely enough PC board for 2 units... Mouser is a total rip off on the copper clad board and switch, but I simply went with them to nail a single easy source for the example...
The average Joe could point to point wire and skip the PC board entirely...
Does it have the EL driver circuit, switch and battery holder for $12? If not lets be fair on the price when comparing... Most of the EL sheets I have seen large enough fill this unit are upwards of $20, and still don't come with a switch or battery holder... Remove the switch and battery holder from my example and we are at $4.82 vs $12, less than half the cost...
Yeah the EL might be brainless for the most part, but "way cheaper" is very open for interpretation and I as I said debatable on the 'easier'... Will the EL inverter you are using fit inside this unit with a suitable battery? Most 'small' inverters are still around 1x1x1 IMO without any real dimensions that looks like a pretty snug fit..
Maybe $100 for a one off rushed job for someone... But, that is not to say what I would 'sell' it for if I was doing a run of them or what not, a run of any considerable number would lower the per unit cost and allow for first quality PC boards to be manufactured vs home etched... A statically lit LED project like this could be made for very reasonable, far bellow $100...
The average Joe didn't build that prop for the studio...
It's not like the average Joe is going to walk into Rat Shack and get EL light for $12, or even any EL light at all...
The prices I quoted were pretty much full retail to the public at an online supply house off the top of my head, not 1000 piece bulk orders... Trust me the price drops significantly in 1000 piece orders, to bulk purchasers...
So here are some exact prices, using current Mouser.com prices with a quick browse of the catalog...
Unetched copper clad PC board 3x5 ~ 1@$3.30
Larger SMD white LED ~ 1@ $0.33
5mm White LED ~ 1@ $0.43
SMD resistors ~ 1@ $.04
Small Toggle Switch ~ 1@ $1.70
2 cell AAA Battery Holder ~ 1@ $0.73
So lets break it down...
Appears to be 4 resistors = $0.16
Large SMD white LED x8 = $2.64
5mm White LED x3 = $1.29
Small Toggle Switch $1.70
2 cell AA battery holder $0.73
Copper clad board $3.30
Grand total $9.82 for a single unit, but with likely enough PC board for 2 units... Mouser is a total rip off on the copper clad board and switch, but I simply went with them to nail a single easy source for the example...
The average Joe could point to point wire and skip the PC board entirely...
Does it have the EL driver circuit, switch and battery holder for $12? If not lets be fair on the price when comparing... Most of the EL sheets I have seen large enough fill this unit are upwards of $20, and still don't come with a switch or battery holder... Remove the switch and battery holder from my example and we are at $4.82 vs $12, less than half the cost...
Yeah the EL might be brainless for the most part, but "way cheaper" is very open for interpretation and I as I said debatable on the 'easier'... Will the EL inverter you are using fit inside this unit with a suitable battery? Most 'small' inverters are still around 1x1x1 IMO without any real dimensions that looks like a pretty snug fit..
Look, your really missing my point. Yes, you could do this. Yes, "they" did do it your way. Yes a professional wouldn't even blink if asked to do this, your way. I could never do it your way, nore for those prices. (because I would go to radioshack)
I am just saying my way, is a good choice for a non-electrician like me. And yes the EL kit I have ordered (for $12.) comes wired up, with all the hardware, except the battery holder, and 12v battery. Witch I already have. I wont know, until it gets here, if it will fight or not, or even work, or not. But if it does work, and fit, it's the way I'm going to go for sure. For mine, and there is nothing wrong with that.
I really do get that you can do it the way you are talking about, I get that they did do it your way, but your post feels more like "Look what I can do" vs "Here's what you can do at home, with no training, and little money" (witch is what I'm working with, and the info I'm trying to offer folks.)
Jamanticus
Well-Known Member
I think you're the one missing exoray's point, Jason.
You said that a different way would've saved the people making the original props lots of time and effort. He wrote out posts illustrating why that probably isn't the case. You're the one who then seemingly thought exoray was challenging you on the parts you're using for your own replica, or the parts an 'average joe' would use. Two separate things.
You said that a different way would've saved the people making the original props lots of time and effort. He wrote out posts illustrating why that probably isn't the case. You're the one who then seemingly thought exoray was challenging you on the parts you're using for your own replica, or the parts an 'average joe' would use. Two separate things.
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exoray
Master Member
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ARG, I get a little more tired of these forums every day. I really don't see what the problem is here. One of use laid out how it was done for the show, and could be done .... by some here. The other laid out how it could be done by a regular joe, at home, to get a similar look on a budget, and with out fancy learning. And, as usually it descends into, "My way is the best","No mine is".
I've missed no point here at all. I said how I was doing mine, I don't really care how anyone else is doing theirs. End of discursion. (on my part anyway.)
I am getting way to old for this !@#$.
I've missed no point here at all. I said how I was doing mine, I don't really care how anyone else is doing theirs. End of discursion. (on my part anyway.)
I am getting way to old for this !@#$.
Jamanticus
Well-Known Member
I think you're seeing an argument that isn't there and getting needlessly stressed about it.
What exoray was saying about the way the original was wired up was tangential, completely not about the way you want to do your replica.
He wasn't posting all he posted to say, "Oh, my way is better!"
He was posting it just to illustrate his ideas on why the original was made the way it was. Emphasis on why. He's not trying to one-up you or tell you or anyone else to do your replica differently.
I mean, come on, let's stay positive! No doom and gloom "I'm too old for this" :lol
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exoray
Master Member
That pretty much sums it up, to the average Joe the path they took to create the screen used prop electronics using LEDs might look complicated or expensive, but in truth it's neither of those it simply looks fancy and expensive but it is in fact cheap and easy to build that way... In fact it's likely one of the lowest cost ways to accomplish the task reliably, and was likely accomplished with parts readily available or already on hand at the electronic guys desk to whip up... The design as is was also open to changes, say the studio all the sudden wanted red buttons with the white display, that is a very simple swap with the existing LED design...
jiggawho85
Active Member
I have a SGA GDO and the insides blew me away how much they did for prop that was shown so little...
I am thinking about finding good machine guy and getting some these made as close as we can, would you guys be interested if i can keep cost down to couple hundred? This a nice chunk of aluminum and some nice work, will have to simply the inside but I think I can get the same look on the final product but it will take some serious work!
Here is mine at parade rest! Do not try this at home! B)
eek:eekwoweek:eek
Quickly no... LOL Over time it should...
Working on finding guy to do that local and keep price done, then we have to work out who can do the inside the best also keep costs low. Then yes they will get made... In time I hope!
exoray
Master Member
Metal prices are pretty consistent between the US and Canada... It's not really the material cost, it's the machine time that will sink you...
Material cost for a chunk large enough for both halves is only about $35-$50 full retail...
