The Official Cosplaysky's Civil War Captain America Costume

How does it compare in quality/fit/construction to the AoU suit, if you've gotten that one? I really liked the job they did on that, and the Avengers one, so am really curious to see about this one, before I spring for it....

Looking good so far, love to see some progress pictures when you start mods.
 
That looks great man! Question for ya though - are you planning on tucking the jacket into the pants like the pics on the site show?

- Aeric

Thanks, nah.. I am going to get the jacket cut shorter and velcro the belt to the bottom of it. I will be wearing it outside the pants and it should look seamless with this method.

How does it compare in quality/fit/construction to the AoU suit, if you've gotten that one? I really liked the job they did on that, and the Avengers one, so am really curious to see about this one, before I spring for it....

Looking good so far, love to see some progress pictures when you start mods.

I didn't buy the AOU suit but I can tell you that the pants are definitely a little small. That's ok, I plan on dropping weight anyway. It is really great quality and construction though, I had the winter soldier suit. Cosplay Sky did not let me down besides the gloves being too small.
 
Hey guys just received my own Civil War suit from Cosplaysky (crazy fast shipping, ordered on Monday had it Friday night) and was wondering if anyone has succeeded with modifications? the AOU thread was so lively so hopefully this one picks up. Would love to share some ideas and tips!
 
Could you post pictures? is it really as shiny as it is on the website's pics?
One of the things I think the AoU suit has over the CW one is it doesn't seem so darn bright and reflective

Hey guys just received my own Civil War suit from Cosplaysky (crazy fast shipping, ordered on Monday had it Friday night) and was wondering if anyone has succeeded with modifications? the AOU thread was so lively so hopefully this one picks up. Would love to share some ideas and tips!
 
Hey I don't think it looks all that shiny but then I've never seen the AOU suit. The thing that does drive me crazy about both his how damn white and red the stripe colors are. In the movies the white on his suit is never white it is typically dirty and looks almost gray and the red closer to black. Figuring out how to weather it and do a good job will definitely be a challenge. As will finding a tailor to take it in for me. I had to order larger sizes for the length (6'1 175lbs) but everything is baggy because of it lol.

As for pictures will try for some later as i'm currently at work!

Could you post pictures? is it really as shiny as it is on the website's pics?
One of the things I think the AoU suit has over the CW one is it doesn't seem so darn bright and reflective
 
Chiming in, as my friend has the Stealth suit of AoU, and I just got my own CW suit from Cosplaysky - the fabric of the stealth suit has a more noticeable raised twill pattern, and my friend says that when she received it, it was just as shiny as my new suit currently is, and just wearing it for photoshoots (and of course not washing and then Febreezing it and hanging it after use) wore away some of the shine. They are both made of some coated fabric - would be nicer if they had just used a flat twill without coating, but on the other hand, twills tend to get worn edges that are lighter than the rest of the fabric. Perhaps the coating inhibits that to some degree.

On other notes - since the site had free custom sizing on at the time, I plumped for that. The customer service was great - I'd ordered a Peggy Carter uniform at the same time and they got back to me in a day worried about the differing measurements. I assured them that yes, I was wearing a chest binder when I meaured for the Cap piece, and begged them again to make sure that they got the shoulder / leg \ arm measurements right, since I have monkey limbs and swimmer's shoulders. The Peggy costume was perfect, barring the shirt (sleeves to short by a couple of inches, just like any other darn shirt I buy) but the rest? Excellent. With that piece, I'm only going to have to redo the skirt hem, since they top-stitched it like savages instead of doing a blind hem stitch.

The Cap suit - thank the small gods, the shoulder and limb measurements were perfect. LONG. The only issue is actually the waist of the pants which is hilariously large, as if they used my hip measurement for the waist. I'm a seamstress - I can work with it.

So! Cosplaysky custom work - peggy suit - 100% good. Cap suit - 85-90% (the waist band is too egregious an error.) Probably 85% since I find I'll be trimming lots of loose hanging threads on the costume in general.

Other notes - the knee and elbow padding is a bit.. much. I could stuff a toy with the amount that's in there. I'll be replacing that with foam or plastic shoulder guards and knee guards for skateboarding or whatever. The star is really heavy and sags, even with my fairly supportive bound chest beneath - the chest in general needs more support - either a heavy quilted piece or foam.

The arms of the jacket definitely pull when you raise your arms, so I will probably rip those out and go for the vest-style costume with the arms attached to a cooling sport shirt layer beneath. I am considering whether I'll tuck the jacket/vest in, and if so, will I do a buttoned elastic strap arrangement (like men's sports cup thingies have, the strap that goes round each cheek, as it were) to keep it in place and the look smooth, or make buttoned tabs to attach it to the pants. I've done the strap arrangement for other costumes before where I needed shirts to lie flat or keep from rucking up, and can vouch for its efficacy. But that's for cases where you are tucking the jacket in. The back flap needs more velcro to keep it close to the body, as well.

Colour-wise, pretty good. The white of the stomach on the jacket needs toning down to an eggshell offwhite, definitely. I want to age the costume a bit overall.

Belt and harness - probably good enough, though the harness could be heavier. The spats need backing in something heavier or they will sag.

The gloves seem...weirdly long? And really big.

Also, just FYI, the pleather they used for the spats and the Peggy Carter belt smelled horribly like petro plastic product, and are currently hanging on the balcony until the stink dies.

Still, for this price, it's a damned good deal for a costume I'd hate to put together myself due to complexity. Very good as is, and excellent as a base to work from.

Could you post pictures? is it really as shiny as it is on the website's pics?
One of the things I think the AoU suit has over the CW one is it doesn't seem so darn bright and reflective
 
So I see this post has kind of died with no where near the success of the AOU thread but with Comic Con coming up I thought I'd reach out to the geniuses on this site. The colors are clearly off, the white is far to white instead of the dirty white gray like in the movie and the red isn't dark enough either. Any advice on how to get these colors better? And how to battle damage it in general to match my shield?
 
Well, tbh, a lot of the info in general has been covered in the AoU thread.

Myself, I am still working on adapting my cosplaysky Civil War, just wasn't posting anything here since no one else was talking and it seemed potentially obnoxious. I'm doing rather a lot to mine, to the point where people might wonder why I didn't just pattern my own. (Short answer - I could've, but didn't want to invest the time.) But I could post how I've hacked it apart.

But yeah, the colour thing. I haven't gotten to the point where I am going to be touching up the colours, and I am definitely going for the battle dirty look as well.

The colour touch-ups for the white (wasn't even that worried about the red) I will be testing later. It sorta of depends on how fabric takes certain colouring agents. Look like it's mostly a nylon/poly fabric they used, which isn't ideal for staining. This isn't going to be useful possibly, but I'm going to use my airbrush, and start the tests with permanent ink/alcohol. Sharpie ink or similar, and see if it will stain the white. Depending on the tint I get being too light or dark, add or subtract alcohol as needed. Trial 2 will be just fabric paints or acrylics, likewise thinned down. Acrylics can wear off over time (but it's a costume that you might not wear often anyway) and with such a plasticky fabric, the paint might just sit on top and flake off faster. It's all down to testing.

I haven't decided about the dirt, how I will do that yet. Last time I aged a piece down, it was a combo of dry brushing, misting with paint/water and some sponge work with acrylics and gloss medium.

The thing you gotta ask yourself is - do you want the battle dirt to be permanent? or a one-time thing that you can brush or wash off? There are fake-dirt powders made for the movie industry, though I haven't tried them yet myself. Also, seemed silly to get a small bottle of dirt when, well. There's so much ACTUAL dirt out there.
 
Thank you for such a helpful and detailed post. I had heard suggestions of maybe using a grey shoe polish, when do you think youre doing your trials? I need to come up with something by october 8th lol. I'm going to go back and read through the AOU post. Its a lot to dig through but maybe I'll find even more advice.
 
Won't be getting to the colour test for a week or two - the current project slate is making up some musculature and shoulders to fill out the suit better (well, gotta fake the shoulder/waist ratio SOMEHOW). The jacket is currently in about four pieces. Before I start putting it back together, I ought to test some of the colour either on the reverse, or on some off-cuts of the blue and red left from taking in the waist.

Haven't heard about grey shoe polish on fabric before - seems like a fast fix, at least. I used shoe polish on a vinyl Cosplaysky long Star-Lord coat to weather it.Worked fine. though prone to wearing off eventually. I imagine using it on fabric might be longer wearing, since fabric has a bit more tooth to hold it.
 
Right, I may as well start posting, if only to resuscitate the thread.

Overall - Costume (custom sized)
Pros - Cosplaysky did a pretty good job with MOST the details on the costume, and got my measurements right - except the waist of the paints. One thing I wish they would do is switch up the fabric to something that looks more like... fabric. A twill polycotton would be ace.

Cons - Things I didn't like - lining the costume. Yes, yes, it gives a nice finish but let's be real. I have NEVER been to an event that wasn't heated comfortably, i.e. hot as blazes to anyone in more than a long sleeve shirt and jeans. And their lining is the usual slutty polyester stuff, so it sticks to you when you sweat. Also, the star is too heavy and needs backing to support it, and a corner of the star had punched a hole in the stretch fabric it lies on - I need to patch that. Lastly, the "kneepads and elbow pads" were huge wads of stuffing that felt weird and tend to want to slide away from the point of my elbow or knee, like I was trying to wear a round plushy on my joints.

Without further ado, here is me working over the Cosplaysky Civil War suit.

Stage 1 - Pants
With the waist band being the same size measurement of my hips (their custom sizing screw up), I had to add darts in the back. Also - LINING. So unnecessary.

Deconstruction - I took out the waistband and hems, pulled out the lining fabric and pulled apart the inner leg seams so I could work in the flat. What I saw was that Cosplaysky uses really cheap and nasty open cell foam to do the raised details of the costume. I felt the raised details weren't crisp enough and pulled out the foam which pretty much disintegrated anyway. Note - inner materials - not great quality. I also pulled off the horrible stuffed knee-pads, I loathed them. I got enough stuffing out of them to do two major muscle groups on the Cap muscle suit I was building.

Sizing - I put two big darts in the back of the pants to bring the waist to something approximating my own. Accordingly, I cut down the massive waistband, and put some elastic in the rear waistband where no one would see for general comfort when bending over or whatnot.

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Detail work - I used a pre-washed and flattened felt to rework raised details. The felt is just under a half centimetre. I used felt instead of Eva foam because... well there was no good reason. I had it, it's washable, it worked, being flexible. I cut the shapes, used some glue stick to help position and stick them under the fabric, placed some scrap fabric under the felt, and top-stitched around the shape as close as possible with my zipper foot.

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Note - the original detailing on the leg wasn't big enough. You can see the stitch holes where it used to be.

Tip - when you have obnoxious stitch holes visible in a costume, your friend is your iron, steam and a spoon. Or your fingernail. Steam the fabric at whatever your fabric can handle, and use your spoon edge to rub and tease the stitch marks, going with the weft, and then the warp. You can ease them smaller or even invisible. Steam it again, iron it, boom, no stitch marks. I have been using this technique on the stomach of the Cap costume, but haven't done the leg details yet, as seen above.

Knee Pads - Didn't take any pics during the making but I did take some of the elbows, which I still haven't installed. The process was similar - I used some eva foam for floor tiles to make the knees. Using a matting cutter that cuts at 45 degree angle, I was able to give the knees the cup shape. Note - the floor tile I used had a tatami mat pattern on one side, which is what you see in the pics. I used Masters to glue the pieces together.

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Elbow pads
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Tatami mat eva foam knee pads, aren't they odd.

Screw - up - I LOST one of the material pieces for the knee pads that I'd ripped off originally, and I had to cover my eva foam pads with a navy blue vinyl. Glue, cover, turn edge under and then hand sew to the stretch knit over the knee on the pants. It felt strange having the knee pad floating around over the stretch knit - probably because the knit isn't THAT stretchy, so I chopped it out. Made it feel much better when kneeling and moving.

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And that was about it for the pants, until I add snaps or whatever to help connect the top part of the costume to the bottom.
The knee pads, in spite of having to use the vinyl cover instead of the original fabric, turned out well, they are bit flexible and pretty comfortable. And I was glad to test out the felt detail stuff on the bottom of the costume, since doing the top was up next.

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Next - Detailing (and correcting the detailing) on the stomach of the Cosplaysky costume.
 
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Moving on - the stomach section. Cosplaysky's version isn't bad, it is sufficient, but since I was going to rip apart the top to take the lining out and reinforce the area behind the star, etc, I figured I'd fix the stomach detailing.

Problems - the detailing isn't very crisp, being quilted onto cheap open cell foam. Also, some parts were the wrong shape, or missing altogether.

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The proportions of the middle section were incorrect, and the side piece is just wrong.
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The centre pieces are not balanced and 50/50, the top half is smaller. The side piece is a c-shape.
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To fix - redo the middle pieces. Reshape the side to the C-shape. Fix the shape of the bottom middle. Run the detailing all the way across the chest and stomach, since that was missing. Re-shape the top chest piece. Add the pec piece, which wasn't on the cosplaysky costume at all.

1 - Rip apart jacket, remove arms, side seams. Throw the lining into trash - won't be lining mine. Pull off the foam detail padding completely, since it is crap. Pick out all the threads. Cut new pieces from the 0.5 cm felt, use temp glue to place correctly. If you remember, now's a good time to get of of the stitch holes left behind. (I forgot.)

2. Back the felt with scrap fabric, and sew everything into place with zipper foot flush against the felt.
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I added the extra detailing that was meant to go under the... strap piece? that runs across the chest. Small pieces first, strap thing behind. The piece that Cosplaysky missed is in the upper left of the pic.
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Gotta steam iron this, but it looks better.
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The back side. The scrap is just a linen, which at least is comfortable. Since I'm going to be wearing this over a chest binder and a muscle suit, less is more.

3 - Next I made up a muscle suit. Living in Japan, I'm kinda stymied for getting good materials, and only yesterday found a foam that could be carved into muscles. The muscle suit I made to get the V-proportions is your standard double layer stuff-n-puff, being filled with polyfill.

The base layer for the muscle shirt is an Airism undershirt by Uniqlo - light and really breathable for summers here. The over fabric is a two-way stretch in a navy that closely matches the uniform fabric. I wound up making the shoulders super wide, since I'm thick-waisted. Once the whole thing is done, it'll look more natural, since just wearing the uniform over the muscles will weigh and compress the polyfill to a certain extent. The sleeves of the uniform are going to attached directly to the muscle shirt with snaps, and the rest of the jacket will make up a vest. This is because the Cosplaysky uni, though sharp, has about 10% range of motion for the arms, which is pretty unacceptable.
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Stay-Puff, man. Stay-Puff.
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Muscle shirt over duct tape dummy. Note - the strange extra pocket of padding over the pecs is to fill in a depression. Since I'm female, I have to wear a binder and they only compress so much. A test fit of the uniform over the shirt before I added that pocket showed fabric dipping and wrinkling, when it should be smoothly filled with Chris Evan's muscle. Needs must.

That's it for the time being - I will be working on making the sleeve components to go over the muscle shirt next, then the vest.
 
Task for the evening - tailor the jacket to fit over the muscle suit. I ended out taking out about 4" at the waist. Since I'm going to tucking the jacket into the pants, this should help with the silhouette.

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I'd left an excess of felt strap from the front of the costume to carry over onto the back, once the side seams were done.

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Of note - heck with this weird hot fabric, man. I took out the zipper, took out two panels on the back and replaced them with more Airism fabric from the extra Uniqlo shirts I'd bought. It's stretchy, so it'll give with bending, and it's tons more breathable. I still expect to flop sweat, thanks to the muscle suit, but I'm kind of committed to keep this thing light as possible whilst attempting to play the part of a muscular dude. The Airism is covered by the back flap thing anyway, so no one will see it, and if they do, it looks like a sufficiently techy fabric to plausibly be part of the costume.

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Next - the struggle to figure the best way to attach the sleeves for maximum mobility.
 
Long weekend, so I'm able to toss more time at this project.


Notes about the blue fabric that makes up the bulk of the costume - it's definitely a cotton from a burn test I did on a scrap. Definitely coated fabric as well, to give it that icky shine (to make it look like some sporty nylon? like... sportswear for active... heroes? What was the point, Cosplaysky?) Lastly, ironing or application of heat gun didn't make any impression on whatever they coated the cotton with, which is annoying. I know with some synthetics you can walk a fine line between scorching the fabric and reducing shine, but that isn't the case here. Sorry, folks. Unless you use some sort of stuff to attack the coating (acetone? a matt spray for fabric?) there's no way to reduce the glow. Unless it's just going to be straight up wear and tear, possible washing, and applied dirt or something.

Good point about the terrible coating - the fabric doesn't fray at all, and so like a heathen seamstress, I turned the hem of the armholes under once and stitched it, feeling vaguely guilty while doing so. Other good news - it can be ironed, though if you are going to iron from the face of the fabric, use a pressing cloth to protect the vinyl bits and watch the heat settings! Don't break your heart melting the vinyl. Also, since I'd ripped my suit apart, it was much easier to press things in the flat and from the reverse. If you have a tailor's ham, you may find pressing the costume easier over curved areas. If you don't have a ham, roll up some towels really tightly and cram them in an old pillowcase for a make-shift ham, or wrap the towels around something round and curvy that doesn't flex or melt. Not perfect, but it helps.


Arms - they actually listened to me when I gave them measurements, and the arms were actually a touch TOO long. My fault for panicking about what other people said about their non-custom suits and giving slightly longer measurements for the arms. So, I tore up the applied stuff on the forearms and shifted it up an inch and a bit.
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The shoulders - I needed to put something on the sleeves to attach them to the muscle suit non-permanently, so I could wash or rinse the muscle suit and not worry that I was fading or ruining the costume arms. From the coated pieces on the back of the vest that I replaced with stretch Airism fabric, I made the upper shoulders. I used stretch knit for the part that went under the armpit area. I added a bit on the red stripe to make it long enough to be covered by the vest, then stitched it down.

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Decided to go full-on Civil War and removed the Avengers patches completely, and steamed the fabric to remove the stitch holes. The real suit has the nice armoured pauldron look to the shoulders. I took a dart in the upper edges of the shoulder through the vinyl section to help with the cup shape.

I then applied some headliner foam over the sections, but found that they were still bunching up strangely and just wouldn't lie smooth. So I made some pauldrons to go under from thermoplastic with the same darting in the upper edges. Then I heated the sticky side of the plastic, stuck it to the headliner and stretched it into shape over my knee. Not a perfect job, but much better, and I'll leave it be.

In the pic below, the bright blue is the back for the felt detailing, since I ripped out the open cell foam from the arm details as I did on the stomach section of the vest.

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With the arm seam re-sewn, I took in the forearm section a lot, the wrist area was like bell-bottoms for your hands, ridiculously big on my normal arms and still big even over the muscle suit.

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Elbow cups - made from craft foam, and this time I didn't lose the original fabric elbows piece from the costume, so I was able to recover with the same fabric and reattach.
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And though I hate the back flap component of the costume for the extra layer, it does cover a multitude of sins. Like my see-through mesh-back Captain America vest...
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Anyway, moving on to the tedious attachment of snaps to the muscle shirt and arm pieces tomorrow. And considering reworking the back flap section a little. Getting rid of the velcro for one - it snags the knit fabric badly. After that, final check and fitting to see whether tucking the vest on is still going to be viable for ease of movement with the jockstrap system. If not, chopping the vest shorter will be the next step, general hemming and thread snipping before I move on to making the belt and harness work better. And I still gotta think about the helmet...
 
Part of the whole costume experience is when you gotta acknowledge you done buggered up. The idea of having the sleeves snap onto the muscle was sound enough, but I failed to give enough fabric for the underlap that would go under the armhole of the vest. Hours of attaching snaps later, I found when I swung my arms about, the vest armhole would catch on the edge of the underlap and either unfasten the snap, or leave a rucked-up edge of the underlap sticking out from the vest armhole. Not cool.

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Faced with the prospect of going and out getting more navy blue knit to make the underlap even wider, with the possibility of mucking up again, I rebelled. I had one last Airism undershirt. I decided to cut it into a crop-top, added a zipper to get into it more easily, and attached the sleeves with the underlap to that instead. The seam shows a bit when I swing my arms about in extreme poses, but it's not as noticeable as snaps that have popped off, and I just could not handle the thought of buying more fabric. Or of sewing sixteen more snaps on again.

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I really hadn't wanted the extra layer, I mean, others on the AoU Cosplayky suit thread have done this with a shirt like this, I'm just the poor slob who needed a muscle suit as well. "Why didn't you just sew it on the muscle suit directly, if you wanted to avoid too many layers?" you may ask. Because the muscle suit is hot, I will sweat, and I still wanted to keep it a separate piece for easy washing.

On the bright side, it makes for amazing flexibility. Before, I needed help getting into the original Cosplaysky jacket as it came, because I couldn't lift my arms high enough. Now, I can do up my own zipper, heft a shield, make any ridiculous pose. The vest doesn't shift, the knit fabric of the crop top pulls everything back into place. Perfection.

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I love doing up my own zippers. Any costume I can get into by myself is a winner.

At this point I also decided that tucking the vest into the pants wasn't going to be viable - caused wrinkling. Over the pants it would go, with the belt attached to it with Velcro. So the vest got tentatively hemmed up.

Pictured without the back flap - that's the next thing I'm tackling, after I hem up the jacket. The white edge on the armhole of the vest is an experimental piece of foam I may use to help support the star.
 
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Further fabric test: removing shine

Good news, I guess acetone will take away some of the shine. Not a lot, but it did make a difference.

The suit fabric doesn't look bad in person, but that shine does tend to be a bit reflective in photos.

Bad news... well, some people like the smoothness of the material as is?

Test - get some nail polish remover on cotton pad, rub firmly. Use some dish soap and rinsed out the scrap (the remover had a flowery smell). Iron to speed up the drying and take out some creasing.

Twill outer face of the fabric shown in all pictures, taken at varying angles. In some angles, even the original fabric looks more matte. In others, the shine is more pronounced.

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Left side is the nail polish treated side. I suppose with more elbow grease or better remover (more acetone?) you might get a better result. In person, the difference is more pronounced. It's enough in the pics to make me think of heading to a hundred yen shop for some more nail polish remover, or hit up Amazon or something for acetone. A couple of bottles might do the trick.
 
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