Tips for new sculptors

metalgreyfox, i'm totally in the same boat as far as money which is why i suggested the chavant test pack (i got mine for free, dunno if they always do that but couldn't hurt to ask)
in any event, as to the silicone, I BELIEVE rebound 25 is platinum so your correct as to using NSP (No Sulphur Plasticine) and I'd suggest a Medium firmness, holds detail but isn't as much of a pain as their hard. You CAN apply the rubber directly to it but I'd suggest hitting your finished sculpture with a little Crystal Clear simply to help seal it.

There's then two ways to mold with the silicone, a brush up mold, and a matrix mold. I can go into detail on either of these for you if you like but it will depend on what you want to do and what the piece is.

A brush up simply consists of brushing on several layers of rubber letting the previous dry before doing the second. You brush a layer on as a "beauty coat" to get your detail and then build up layers of thickened silicone to gain a little mass. Then you take a rigid material (i.e. ultracal/fiberglass/plasti-paste/plaster bandage) and make what's called a mother mold.

A matrix mold is a little more complicated but useful for something your going to be doing many pulls from. Basically you cover your sculpture in a cling wrap and then apply wet clay in the thickness that you want your rubber and add your key shapes in clay as well. Build the mother mold over this with a small piece of pipe or such to keep a hole open in the mother mold. Open the mother mold and clean out the wet clay then put it back together around the sculpture. You now have a negative space between the sculpt and mother mold that gets filled with the silicone through the pour whole you left open.

Depending on the piece you could also just do a silicone block mold by building a wall out of something like foam core around the sculpted piece and pouring the silicone rubber in.

I can go deeper into any of these methods if you know which one you'd like to attempt. Also, what piece are you trying to make?
 
don't bake sculpey and then try to add to it... you bake sculpey your done, it's rigid and set... Sculpey is a polymer clay and can be mixed with other polymer clays, oils can me melted and mixed with other oils, and bondo will just make a mess... Try to keep like-minded sculpting mediums together if your mixing unless you have a little extra time and money to really get into experimentation and can afford to chuck a lot of material...
 
yes, you can add sculpey to sculpey as needed on one specific project. The question comes off sounding like he wanted to mix mediums to create a new medium to do his sculpt, not start something and then add to it later...
 
yes, you can add sculpey to sculpey as needed on one specific project. The question comes off sounding like he wanted to mix mediums to create a new medium to do his sculpt, not start something and then add to it later...

Dup! Sorry!! :confused

FB
 
metalgreyfox, i'm totally in the same boat as far as money which is why i suggested the chavant test pack (i got mine for free, dunno if they always do that but couldn't hurt to ask)
in any event, as to the silicone, I BELIEVE rebound 25 is platinum so your correct as to using NSP (No Sulphur Plasticine) and I'd suggest a Medium firmness, holds detail but isn't as much of a pain as their hard. You CAN apply the rubber directly to it but I'd suggest hitting your finished sculpture with a little Crystal Clear simply to help seal it.

There's then two ways to mold with the silicone, a brush up mold, and a matrix mold. I can go into detail on either of these for you if you like but it will depend on what you want to do and what the piece is.

A brush up simply consists of brushing on several layers of rubber letting the previous dry before doing the second. You brush a layer on as a "beauty coat" to get your detail and then build up layers of thickened silicone to gain a little mass. Then you take a rigid material (i.e. ultracal/fiberglass/plasti-paste/plaster bandage) and make what's called a mother mold.

A matrix mold is a little more complicated but useful for something your going to be doing many pulls from. Basically you cover your sculpture in a cling wrap and then apply wet clay in the thickness that you want your rubber and add your key shapes in clay as well. Build the mother mold over this with a small piece of pipe or such to keep a hole open in the mother mold. Open the mother mold and clean out the wet clay then put it back together around the sculpture. You now have a negative space between the sculpt and mother mold that gets filled with the silicone through the pour whole you left open.

Depending on the piece you could also just do a silicone block mold by building a wall out of something like foam core around the sculpted piece and pouring the silicone rubber in.

I can go deeper into any of these methods if you know which one you'd like to attempt. Also, what piece are you trying to make?


I've read up a lot on making the mother mold and have a couple questions that I can PM you since this matrix mold is peaking my interest as well. I am making a Rinzler helmet from TRON but I'm hoping to expand this knowledge and get more in depth with sculpting and product compatibility. I've built up the general shape with filler foam and am at the stage where I can begin to add details and I'm leaning towards the NSP route.

My idea for the Crystal Clear was to use that to make the visor of the helmet by slush casting a complete helmet with CC(which will be around half the helmet) or vacuum form it. The only problem is the working time of the CC compared to the short one of smooth cast 300. Is it at all feasible to make a pull from the silicone using CC taking into consideration Visibilty(clarity and opacity), working time, etc?

Will sealing the sculpture with CC prevent me from modifying it at a later date without significantly defacing the already made sculpt?

As far as right now goes, my idea is to build my detail with NSP, use rebound and plastipaste, then make pours from smoothcast 300. (and no, I'm not sponsored by Smooth-On, ha)

Thanks for all the help
 
For this style helmet I'd probably do a brush up mold personally but the matrix is possible and I can help you out with either.

As far as casting the face in crystal clear... I've never used that produce unfortunately and don't want to muck anyone up by guessing...

AND I mentioned a DIFFERENT crystal clear. The crystal clear your referring to is a plastic/resin/something compound for casting. DON'T seal a sculpture with this.

For sealing the sculpt you want a SPRAY ACRYLIC. My favorite is made by Kryalon but a few companies make it. It's sold in the spray paint aisle and is called Crystal Clear. You don't want a matte spray or a dulling spray (which are used WITH crystal clear on something organic like monster mask or something)... Just get a clear acrylic spray and hit the sculpture with a not so heavy coat or two before molding.
 
Awesome info! Thanks.
And thanks for clearing up the little bit about Crystal Clear. That would have been a disaster! haha.

I will PM you in the near future with some questions on brush casting some Rebound 25 on. Thank you to everyone for their input. Much to learn. :)
 
My idea for the Crystal Clear was to use that to make the visor of the helmet by slush casting a complete helmet with CC(which will be around half the helmet) or vacuum form it. The only problem is the working time of the CC compared to the short one of smooth cast 300. Is it at all feasible to make a pull from the silicone using CC taking into consideration Visibilty(clarity and opacity), working time, etc?

I use Smooth-On's Crystal Clear resin frequently in my business and I can tell you definatively that it is the wrong material for your applicaton. To make a long story short, unless you have years of experience with resins and have invested thousands of dollars in shop equipment, don't even bother. It is by far the most finicky and toxic material I work with. This is not a hobby material at all.

And if that isn't enough for you or you actually do have all the proper equipment and experience... it still won't work. Even a thin sheet of the stuff would be like looking through the bottom of a coke bottle.

Your best bet is to have the lense vacuformed. Cheaper, safer, and you can see through it.

Oz
 
That was the nail in the coffin. Thanks!

That brings me to another question, does a helmet pull (therfore hollow) from a mold made of smoothcast 300 have enought compression strength to resist vacuum forming? It's a rookie question I know...
 
the best bet for a vacu-form buck is ultra-cal 30. It's a strong gypsum plaster. Once your piece is molded, you can brush it up in layers. Once it begins to thicken up you then add pieces of burlap soaked in more of the material for strength and support. Build up a decent thickness between 1/2 inch and an inch and you'll be good to go. Plus, you can sand it down and make it glass smooth!
 
The only thing with that is that it will be out of proportion to the rest of the helmet...

:confused How do you figure that? If you make the buck out of your own mold, then it will be the same size as anything else (resin) that you pour into it. Kind of the whole point behind having a mold.
 
It would only be out of proportion by the thickness of the plastic. AND the way around that is to do what's called a "snap" of the visor section of the sculpt, which is a super cheap, quick, thin mold. You can do a thin silicone brush up with a plaster bandage jacket and make your buck out of that. Pull a copy on the vacu-forming table and then use that pull to press into the original sculpt. Finish the sculpture and remove that piece before the final mold. NOW when you run the helmet, the vaccu-formed visor will fit PERFECTLY into place.
 
@ozymandias
It would only be out of proportion by the thickness of the plastic.

So confused now.
Buck?

This "snap" is a bit confusing to me. That's a mold of just the visor area, correct? What do I pour that with so that I can put it on the vacuum? (essentially, what am i putting under the vacu-former?

Sorry for the novice questions once again. I'm trying to wrap my head around 100 concepts at once.
 
That's what a "buck" is, the piece to be vacu-formed. A "snap" is a quick, dirty, one time use mold.

SO, I'm saying you do the sculpt of the whole helmet. Make a quick one time mold just PAST the visor area. Cast this in stone to create the buck. Vacu-form that.

Take the vacuform and lay it into the clay so that you can add or detract from the original sculpt allowing for the thickness in the plastic.

THEN mold the helmet. Your casts will now be in two pieces, the resin or fiberglass helmet and the vaccu-formed visor but because of the extra steps, the vaccu-form'd visor will fit PERFECTLY within the helmet.

Does that make sense?
 
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