Uncle Rico's Time Machine

But that's going to happen regardless of how many people are looking for the parts. Once the part is identified, stores are going to get inundated with requests for a "replacement part for my grandfather's doowhacky". That's just how this place is.
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But it doesn't have to be that way. For example, say 1 or 2 of the parts ARE kinda rare. I'd personally rather see someone order 25 of them from a vendor that has them then have the vendor get 25 calls. By the 5th or 6th call said vendor is more likely to up the price, or become very suspicious. There is also a higher chance that one of the 25 RPF callers will spill the beans and let said vendor in on our little secret, and that could also jack up the price.

Right now, it just kinda seems like "let me make sure I get one for myself, then you jackals are on your own". And that's ok, too. Everyone does it.
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Well, I can honestly say that is not my intent at all. I'd just like to see everyone here that wants to build one be able to do so for as little cost possible.

-Ss
 
ssdesigner said:
But it doesn't have to be that way. For example, say 1 or 2 of the parts ARE kinda rare. I'd personally rather see someone order 25 of them from a vendor that has them then have the vendor get 25 calls. By the 5th or 6th call said vendor is more likely to up the price, or become very suspicious. There is also a higher chance that one of the 25 RPF callers will spill the beans and let said vendor in on our little secret, and that could also jack up the price.

-Ss
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You're right, it doesn't have to be that way. It's never had to be that way. But it will always be that way. Someone with either too much exuberance or not enough common sense (or just to be a vindictive PITA), will inevitably end up telling a dealer why anyone is looking for that crappy old piece of junk that's been collecting dust since the depression. And that dealer will tell other dealers and then ebay will be awash in $400, otherwise useless, whatever-it-is-we're-looking-fors.

Lest we ever forget the debacle of Luke's macrbinoculars where a normally $8 POS camera was selling for well over a hundred bucks because someone, somewhere spilled the beans of it's importance. And the same with the graflex or any number of other props that started ot life as garbage bin fillers.

I have yet to see a prop that was made from found (sometimes rare) parts, not start some sort of rush on dealers. It's the nature of the beast.

-Fred
 
Trust me Gig, I agree with you....I guess what I'm thinking is that if one or two of the parts were harder to find and someone here were to start an interest thread for the item(s) and purchase the initial bunch of them, then distribute them at cost, wouldn't that be at least a little better?

-Ss
 
ssdesigner said:
Trust me Gig, I agree with you....I guess what I'm thinking is that if one or two of the parts were harder to find and someone here were to start an interest thread for the item(s) and purchase the initial bunch of them, then distribute them at cost, wouldn't that be at least a little better?

-Ss
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Of course it would be better, no doubt. But don't forget, since we have no way of blocking these boards against outside observers, there's no way to stop unscrupolous people from doing unscrupolous things. All you need is one vindictive outsider to screw up the whole shebang for everyone.

I guess I've just become wary and cynical in my old age :lol

-Fred
 
I could be like others that I've come in contact with throughout my replica prop experiences and show off my pretty replica and then never return to the board again. But I'm not going to be that way.

The reason I am wanting to do most of this project myself is because of the simple fact that in my replica prop experiences I've been the one creating prop replicas from other peoples' info. This will probably be one of my last replica props for awhile and I'd like to contribute something meaningful to the replica prop community. Most of you will probably get this done and move on to a new lightsaber or a new phaser or whatever prop appears in the new Batman movie. After I complete this project I have to think about setting money aside to move out of my apartment and into an actual house.

I've not had much experience with the RPF but there have been instances in the past with other prop related forums that the information given is given with a secret handshake or an unwritten deal to give out to some and not to others. Sometimes, the information is given out with the agreement that I not release it to anyone. Because I relied on other people to help me find that information I feel that they have the right to request their findings be kept "hush hush". If I do the bulk of the work on my own, people can complain all they want about my sharing of info but I don't have to feel the least bit guilty.

From what I have seen of the RPF, you guys are a very open group and willing to share info. I'm just trying to do something good for the prop community and don't want to take an action that may get me burned later on because of an oversight. Besides, I love roaming hardware stores and finding some of this stuff myself as I am sure some of you guys did when doing hardware sabers, etc.

As far as a parts list goes, I've pretty much figured out what everything on the machine is. However I have had to order a few things and want to wait until they get here to make the final decision on whether or not my sources and part numbers are reliable and accurate. Pictures can be deceptive and I don't want to steer someone towards the wrong switch or knob and then have them waste money correcting my mistake.

Thank you all for being patient. I promise this will come to a completion and get you well on your way to building a replica of your own.

My fiance is home from Illinois so I am going to enjoy some much missed time with her. I'll answer PMs soon, but didn't want you all thinking I have dropped off the face of the earth. Take care!
 
Looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labors, Thor.

If you need something to transport the thing in, Profiles is selling Uncle Rico's van tomorrow.
 
Yes, a parts list is here!

Sorry for the delay but ssdesigner and I have been working together to identify not only the parts, but 100% screen accurate parts. There are a few gaps in the info that we have found out so if anyone can help out it would be much appreciated.

T- handle:

1- Nibco 1" "slip fix" coupler
coupleruf8.jpg



1- section of 3/4" PVC pipe
1- 1" PVC coupler
1- 3/4" PVC Tee
2- 3/4" PVC coupler
2- Hex plugs (to fill holes of 3/4" coupler)

Time machine "modulus":

1- 6"x 6"x 4" junction box (sometimes called a "pull and junction box"- exact brand unknown- the ones I have found have 3 knockouts per side instead of 2)

1- 12 ft. brown extension cord (two prong type)
cordai6.jpg


1- Hexagonal control knob
knobep3.jpg


2- potentiometers (one to hold the knob and one mounted backwards on the right side of the box)

1- slide switch
switchjv4.jpg


1- 5mm red LED
1- 5mm LED holder
1- pipe section or other small round item to hold the "crystals"
1- 4 digit counter (exact model unknown)
mechCounter.jpg


- Assorted red and black labels (from a DYMO label maker)

Headband (wires and screws listed in Miscellaneous):

1- length of 3/4" steel strapping (sold in hardware stores with aluminum ducting, etc.)
1- button battery (possibly from a calculator- has threaded hole in it)
1- holder for button battery

Miscellaneous:

Assorted wire lengths and colors (appear to be solid wire to better hold shape of coils). If you cannot find the right colors at the hardware store, try an auto parts store. These places sell wires in various colors that hardware stores typically do not.
6- grounding screws (used in metal electrical boxes and come already in the green color but should also be sold as replacements)
5- nuts to secure grounding screws on headband parts
2- screws for holding wires to T-handle
 
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Almost forgot- the crystals

ssdesigner and I found a few places that sell quartz jewelry crystals that are just the ticket.

Assembly is pretty much straightforward except for the crystal cup. I figured out the best way other than gluing this piece is to form an L bracket and place it inside the cup. The bottom portion of the L could screw to the box and the side of the L would be secured by the ground screw holding the coiled red wire.

Other ideas are welcome if you have them
 
First let me say a huge THANK YOU to Thor for taking the bull by the horns on this project and finding all the parts he did. Alot of research hours went into this and I hope by posting all the info gathered so far we can nail the rest of these parts that we are so close on.

Here is a quick diagram of the front of the box. I just wanted to highlight the add-ons (minus the labels) so that everyone is on the same page with the parts and what they are called:



#1 - Crystals Holder - This has the same "hammered metal" finish as the Junction Box so I think that it is an electrical cap for something, but a cut piece of pipe would definately work.



#2 - Micro-Switch:


Can be found here: http://www.mouser.com/search/Default.aspx (I'll let Thor post the exact part number on this one as we were trying to decide between a couple of them that were very similar)


#3 - Red LED:


Can be found here: http://www.ec-securehost.com/FloralCityAirboatCompanyInc./Lights.html


#4 - Guitar Potentiometer:


A likely match can be found here: http://www.alessandro-products.com/parts.html



#5 - Control Knob:


Can be found here: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102830&cp


#6 - Counter:


Still looking for an exact match on this part.



-Ss
 
Very quiet in this thread all of a sudden, must be because you guys are all feverishly looking for the correct main junction box and year desired counter....right?? ;) ;) ;)

-Ss
 
That's what I'm doin. I'm taking a trip to the hardware store tomorrow.

Thank's a ton for the info!

This is a great contribution to the board!!!

I'm still looking for the material to make some Rex Kwan Do balloon pants. "you think anybody wants a roundhouse kick to the face while I'm wearing these bad boys? Fugetaboutit."
 
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The two different models of switch I received are similar in shape and size. I believe the real difference is in the brand and possibly its operation. I'm away right now visiting family but I will be back tomorrow night at which time I will post some links to both of the switches I ordered.
 
T-Handle Parts update

Ok, guys... I am sorry if some of this is reaching you too late but I just made a change to my t-handle parts list. When designing the t-handle I anticipated using 3/4" plumbing for the horizontal section. There weren't too many good screen shots to scale off of and this was my best guess. However when it was put together it didn't look right. I ended up (after buying about 20 ft of 3/4" pipe which is now hacked to pieces and a bunch of fittings) changing the plans to use 1" pipe for the whole assembly. Here are the parts that changed:

Instead of 3/4" couplers use 1" couplers
Instead of 3/4" PVC use 1" PVC
Instead of a 3/4" PVC tee use a 1" reducing T (will accept 1" pvc on two ends and the part that tees off will be 3/4" to fit into the 1" coupler that fits on the straight part of the "slip fix" pipe. As a warning, this 3/4" part and the coupler may be near impossible to get apart once put together so if you anticipate taking it apart you may want to sand the 3/4" part of the tee and inside of the coupler down a bit or risk not being able to get it apart again.

As an addition to the plans, cut the 1" PVC pipe into 3.5" sections. I will take some pictures of the dry fit tomorrow and post screen shots so you guys can judge for yourself. I still need to find good hex plugs for the end caps but I'm sure with enough hunting something will show up.
 
As promised, here are the pictures.....

First a screen shot (best one I could find):

handle3ss9.jpg


Secondly, the handle in pieces (not counting the tee and coupler which are stuck together)

handleapartrc6.jpg


Finally, the handle all put together (minus hex plugs on ends):

handletogetheryp8.jpg
 
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