v312's builds

It was a long journey until I finally got all the parts and finished that blaster. It all started with a Denix-based Greedo Killer that I bought from someone to use the parts on a MGC build. So I was not sure what to do with the Denix after that and it was just sitting in a box until I decided I could use it for a Dagobah build as there the little differences it has to a real Mauser should not matter as these were castings anyway.
So my plan was to use the Denix to make a replica of this prop:
1695164951484.png

and then get a Blasterfactory aluminum kit for the other one (as I eventually did, although it probably was an year later):
1695165049819.png

As I only have this single reference photo of the first prop I used the references of the second for the other side of the blaster as I assume they were made the same:
1695165190820.png

(Piston halves, etc v8 greeblies)

And after I completed the Denix build it was OK but it kind of looked as a generic DL-44 and not so much like the reference (Unfortunately. I didn't take any pictures at that stage) So I decided to try and reproduce as much as possible of the specific details and make it look like a casting.

At the end It turned out better than I expected:
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I tried to replicate some of the little details like for example the 3 dots on the v8 piston half:

1695165932400.png


Although I'm still not sure if these are some casting artefacts or they made them on purpose?? Normal v8 piston halves don't have them ...

Few more pictures:

1695166135062.png



1695166192994.png

1695166374853.png


This one also has a cap on the light port (from one side because it was a real scope and I didn't want to modify it permanently, but also it really look like a port cap to me on the reference photo):

1695166570025.png


At this point I gave up on the idea of building the other one with the aluminum kit and wanted to make it again look like a casting. But I still wanted the base gun to be made of some sort of metal instead of resin or 3d printed plastic etc. and also to use the real vintage greeblies again.
So I was going to get another Denix, but while looking I found there are aluminum castings of a real Mouser on ebay that you can usually get for less than what a Denix costs, plus looked like a better choice for this kind of build. Something like this one:
1695167114549.png


But I'll leave the details of this build for my next post.
 
Something I didn't realize until I received the aluminum casting is that the positions of the safety lever and the rear sight are not the way they are cast on the "Dagobah" blasters.
1695351952633.png


So I was wondering what to do about it for a while, then I remembered there's also Merr-Sonn Power 5 that is made in a similar way and it turned out that on it the safety and the rear sight are setup just like the casting:
1695352367553.png


So I ended up building the Power 5 instead ...
Using these two pictures as reference:
1695352490948.png

1695352540924.png



I had the original Tomtit greeblies for a long time and also an original Michell pulley, some coiled wire that probably came with some Graflex or Kobold, but I knew there's no way to find the original square panel indicators (or buttons?) and I was not sure about the other greeblies. I know there are replicas available, but I prefer to use found parts when possible even if they are not 100% match so I started looking for parts and found some old DIN connector that I figured will be OK, then some modern panel indicators and small discs. Finally for the 2 spikes I got some rubber parts from a VW Beetle.

I think it turned out looking pretty convincing despite not being 100% accurate:

1695353233337.png

1695353264610.png

1695353337146.png



I didn't notice these 2 little details initially, but I saw them later while I was wondering if I should weather the pulley like on the reference or leave it black and I improvised something:
1695353748053.png

I'm also not sure what I see above the two buttons :
1695353961464.png

so I improvised something there ... I know people often build it with 4 buttons but it does not look to me like it is residue from were 2 square buttons were glued ... It also kind of looks shiny:
1695354403150.png


I checked the other Power 5 prop as well:
1695354248167.png

below I can see where 2 identical square pieces were glued, but above it does not look like that ...
Anyway, I guess it will remain a mystery, but if anyone has better references please let me know :)

Just recently I found some Michell turntable junk parts lot and there were some rubber feet. Unfortunately, the tips are rather worn but still seem a better match compared to the VW Beetle greeblies:
1695355425334.png

I might swap them in the future or maybe combine them. I'm anyway not quite sure if the original greeble is one single part or is actually a disc with something stacked on top of it??
 
And to finish the story, I eventually got 2 more of these castings ...

I cut the safety on the fist one land glued it in the correct position for the "Dagobah" build:

1695356615713.png


I decided that cutting and modifying the rear sight will be too much of a hassle and it does not really bug me much as it is mostly hidden behind the scope. So I left it as it was.

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And here's the Power 5 #2:

1695357025752.png


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I never could bring myself to fill in the trigger on my MGC.

And to be honest, i have never seen a definitive proof that the propmakers put those spiky things in a place where they could harm the actors leg when holstered. So i put the Obi Wan saber transistors there.
 
I never could bring myself to fill in the trigger on my MGC.

And to be honest, i have never seen a definitive proof that the propmakers put those spiky things in a place where they could harm the actors leg when holstered. So i put the Obi Wan saber transistors there.
Well, given how scarce are the MGCs these days, I'll probably never use one as a base for a prop replica build that wasn't a MGC originally (Greedo Killer, etc.). Especially since there are these other options available to use as the base gun.

But even on these builds I was not sure about filling the triggers. I first left them as they were. I think when I finished the last of the four builds I decided to try on it how it looks, and thought it is OK and filled the others as well.

Last one I filled was the Denix based DL-44. The other moving parts were already blocked by the paint and some putty I used to make the surface more rough, so leaving just the trigger moveable didn't make a lot of sense anymore.
 
1695879908322.png


This build was on hold for quite a while as I could not find anything for the control box, but finally I completed it when Roy released his kit.
I also finally got a poseable hand from ebay and while it does not look much like the prop it does the job just fine for me.

Here are some notes on the parts:

The Kobold flash is a variation with the smaller size hole on the bottom :
1695880204792.png
1695884644862.png

Unsurprisingly, this does not seem to be very common on the silver Kobolds.
Also as the knurling on upper part of the Kobold is filed off it is hard to tell if it was with a step or not , but It does not really matter for the end result. But based on Roy's calculations the filed part should be 9mm wide. On the few Kobolds that I have it varied somewhere in the 7-11mm , so I picked the one that was closest. It seems that the 9mm is the more common variation for once :).

The Graflex upper was most likely from a "Folmer" variation , as it appears to have the thick silver washer under the beer tab and the
beertab rivet does not look like the "shiny" ones most common on the later "Inc." variations.
1695880815412.png

The one I used for the build had its chrome worn roughly on the same place where it appears to be on the prop:
1695881197071.png

although I left it mostly covered with the silver paint as I assume that's why the prop was painted in the first place.

For the button I'm still not quite sure if it is made of steel or aluminum ...

On this reference it looks more like aluminum to me:
1695881397811.png

But on this one (and it is higher resolution picture) it looks like it has some rust, so it must be made of steel:

1695881508488.png


Similar to how these pieces look:

1695881708476.png


Ultimately, I made one of steel and one of aluminum, but finally choose the seel one for the build.
For both of them I used found parts (weld bungs) that seemed to have the correct dimensions and also a step that fits in the red button hole on the Graflex top (but no thread, so should be glued ).
When I got Roy's kit the size of his button is almost identical to the bungs:

1695882506896.png

(the steel one is on the saber, the two on the side - left is the bung, right is Roy's)

For the red pieces I used random red parts from vintage switches that I had... The one that's currently in Roy's button probably turned out closest to the original.
I know that many think the red bulb cap from the Kobold was used but I could never find a Kobold with red one. However, I have some with transparent caps and if they are the same size as the red ones they they should be too small to be the part.

Additionally from the same reference the red piece appears to be cut and filed (or machined ?) on the prop so there's something like a step and the tip has smaller diameter:

1695881508488.png


Here's one of my attempts to reproduce this:

1695883272701.png


I also added a fiber washer under the beer tab. I'm not sure if on the prop it is a fiber washer or a rusty washer, but I only had fiber ones that fit.

The "valve" piece. Fist I assumed it is the same as the one used on the DV6, but after looking closely to the couple of very blurry references what I see is a flat disc that's relatively thick and with a smaller hole than the DV6 piece:

1695883620658.png
1695883657212.png

Although the photos are so blurry that it could be anything I guess, including the same as on the DV6 or something totally different.
So, I tried few valves with a step:
1695883819756.png

but once I had it in my head that it is a flat disc, none of these looked right to me...
Finally, I found some vintage "Camel" brand valve that was flat and looked to be the right size (that's currently installed on my build).
1695884070185.png


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Couple of additional pictures
:
1695884834410.png


1695884872406.png


I guess the bulb contact is most likely missing on the prop - like this:
1695885003471.png


but I think it looks cool to have it inserted upside-down, makes it look more emitter-like:
1695885158390.png
 
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I'm trying to finish my Jawa blaster build.
I only have these 2 references for it:
1696562358113.png
1696562416770.png

but they are quite good, so I think it is getting pretty close.
The flash hider looks like it is based on the MG81 but the front side looks like hand made, the cone looks like it has a larger diameter than it should be, and also the holes are much bigger. I decided not to try to replicate this, but just use a out-of-the-box replica.

Here's what it looks like currently:

1696563058003.png

1696563099203.png


It's mostly real parts ruger (lower, barrel, bolt, rear sight), plastic upper from an airsoft replica.

Not exactly the same version as this one (that is believed to be the one used for the original build):
1696563644276.png

but the differences are quite minimal. I might swap the grip with the logo with a plain one down the road as I find the logo a little distracting.
There's another logo on the magazine that is not so obvious, so I'll keep it:
1696564045693.png


The Michell/Transcriptors greeblies are all replicas. The Tomtit greeblies are vintage and I used some part from the V8 kit for the tube between the two Tomtit rods.

The connectors on the back side are just a placeholder for this greeblie:

1696564356839.png


What I think I see there is a little tube with a threaded rod that goes through it (or 2 screws glued on the sides of the tube).
So this is what I'll use to build this greeblie:
1696564623975.png
1696564658966.png

but I'm still waiting for the parts to arrive.

The finish on the original prop is just plain black paint with little wear, but as it is a Jawa weapon, I imagine it to be in a really rusty and neglected condition like their desert crawler:

1696564876913.png


I'm not sure how exactly it is going to turn out as there are so many plastic parts and I have no idea how to weather plastic to look like a rusty metal (you can see on the pictures some traces of my first unsuccessful experiment), but I'll give it a try ... if it does not look convincing I'll revert it to just being black.
 
I replaced the greeblie and as far as I can tell it is a pretty good match:
1696877033396.png

If anyone has a better idea of what it could be - please let me know.

Took some pictures before I proceeded with my experiments to make it look rusty , so I can have something to compare the results

1696877280259.png


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1696877867094.png
 
I think you are right.....there is no way that this a MG81 flashhider.

It has to be something they made to look alike.

All the years and noone noticed or asked about it. Back to start.
 
I think you are right.....there is no way that this a MG81 flashhider.

It has to be something they made to look alike.

All the years and noone noticed or asked about it. Back to start.

Also I think the jawa blaster has 5 holes in a row vs 6 on the MG81

I have no experience with castings,but looking at how the Power 5 was made :
1696882986113.png

I guess it's just hard to cast it hollow and with holes, so maybe they drilled holes in a small cone and glued it to the base of a MG81 casting (for the jawa blaster).
 
So here it is, more or less it turned out the way I imagined it. In certain light and angle it looks better and more realistic, in other little too fake for my taste.
I'm not sure if I managed to capture that with the photos:
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Finally, this is how I think it should really look like after using it for some time in a desert world. At least, this is how all my gear starts to look like after camping for a couple of days in the desert:
1696904066070.png


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Anyway, lots of pictures, but it was fun messing with it this weekend - I hope you like it.
 
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My journey with the Stunt Macro (part 1)

Maybe a year ago already, after finding a couple of great looking builds posted in the forum, I’ve decided I must build one too.

Only when I received the Mamiya camera that is used for the main body and started looking for the other parts, I’ve realized that I’ve not done my homework properly. I’ve assumed all parts are identified by now or are made from scratch. That turned out only partially true.

After reading the posts and discussions more carefully and checking the available references (that unfortunately, are not that many) I’ve made this list for myself:

  • Main Body – Mamiya W8 8mm movie camera. Quite rare ☹
  • Bigger Lens – Miranda/Soligor 5cm f1.9. There are couple of variants, but the right one is easily identifiable and is not too rare or expensive.
  • Smaller Lens – Neoca 45mm f2.8 – from a fixed lens Neoca 35mm film camera. Was little bit harder to find, but relatively cheap.
  • Big Knob – the smaller knob of a Seagull TLR camera model that has two of them (the other is used for the Hero Macro)
  • Small Knobs on the side – from a Seagull TLR camera (however, there seems to be a small variation in the shape)
  • Small knobs on the transition box lid – from a Yashica TLR camera. As far as I could tell they look the same on all models, so I picked up the cheapest I could find.
  • Lens plate – looks to be hand made from plexiglass.
  • Transition box – looks to be hand made from aluminum sheet.
  • Belt clip - looks to be hand made from aluminum or steel sheet.
  • Light meter on the top (bubbles + black plastic honeycomb piece) – from the Mamiya W8 camera.
  • Viewfinder Hood – Kalimar Six Sixty, same as on the hero.
  • Black disc on the top – unidentified ☹
  • Side box – unidentified ☹. Looks like the main part is a found object.
  • Top box – another mystery box. ☹ Looks like might be handmade, but maybe a part of a camera finder was used.
Then I moved to study the references for the paint and weathering. These look a little different from reference to reference, so I guess the prop was at least partially repainted during filming.

Main body and lenses are painted with the same color initially. I’m not sure what they used originally, but I used Archive X “Lark Dark Gray”. The lens plate, the transition box and some other sections are painted black. For the part that sits between the body and the transition box I used some light gray paint from Archive X.

1698606621278.png


Sometimes in the movie and on some references the lenses look like they were painted in a little lighter color than the body:

1698606637077.png


I decided to leave the body and the lenses the same color and cover them with little fine desert dust to make them look lighter in color.

The big lens is painted in several little different ways (not counting the weathering) from parts left silver to uniformly “Lark Dark Gray” for the body and black for the side knob:


1698606651156.png

I think the variant on the left looks best, but in the movie it is mostly like on the right one.

The small knobs are sometimes silver, sometimes painted dark (maybe also the knurling on the big knob). The upper small knob might even be missing:


1698606602084.png



Note on the small knobs shape: Most of the Seagull knobs I’ve seen are like on the last picture on the right below.

But one set has little different knurling and looks maybe closer to the reference picture so I used it for the build (middle picture)

1698606668717.png


Difference is minimal and maybe I’ve picked the wrong variation for this build, but eventually I made a second build from my “incorrect” leftover parts and used the second pair of knobs for it.

The Kalimar Viewfinder hood looks to be pained the same color like the main body, although it could be just that original blueish Kalimar color is rendered really close to it on these old film pictures. The square plate with the logo that is painted black.

1698607324748.png

For now I've painted the square part black, but left the rest of it in the original color. I think the mismatched color gives it the kind of "repaired with whatever was available" look that fits well with the star wars universe.

Paint wear, dust – sometimes there’s less sometimes there’s more. For my build I just tried to replicate the best reference picture from each side that I could find although they might have been from different states of the prop.

Light meter bubbles were initially intact, but at some point were broken and less than a half of them left:

1698606700994.png


Interestingly, the honeycomb and the bubbles are packed in a nice metal frame inside the camera originally. I guess it will take some effort to remove them from there, so I wonder why they didn't just use the whole part with the frame. Maybe because they tried to match the one on the hero.

Given the number of unidentified parts I've accepted that this is not going to be a completely accurate build, so I've decided to change few things and this is one of them. I never really liked the way the bubbles are just glued on top of the Macros (both the stunt and the hero). It's no problem in the movie, but looks really fake when you have it on display and can look at it from a close distance.
So I used the whole part as it is in the metal frame instead of taking out just the bubbles and the honeycomb.


OK, so this post is already getting too long so I’ll continue with my interpretation of the mystery parts and the actual build in a follow up sometime next week.

Meanwhile, please let me know if you have some corrections, better references, etc.

None of my builds is really “Done” – I’m always willing to improve them when new information becomes available, or more accurate parts are found.
 
My journey with the Stunt Macro (part 1)

Maybe a year ago already, after finding a couple of great looking builds posted in the forum, I’ve decided I must build one too.

Only when I received the Mamiya camera that is used for the main body and started looking for the other parts, I’ve realized that I’ve not done my homework properly. I’ve assumed all parts are identified by now or are made from scratch. That turned out only partially true.

After reading the posts and discussions more carefully and checking the available references (that unfortunately, are not that many) I’ve made this list for myself:

  • Main Body – Mamiya W8 8mm movie camera. Quite rare ☹
  • Bigger Lens – Miranda/Soligor 5cm f1.9. There are couple of variants, but the right one is easily identifiable and is not too rare or expensive.
  • Smaller Lens – Neoca 45mm f2.8 – from a fixed lens Neoca 35mm film camera. Was little bit harder to find, but relatively cheap.
  • Big Knob – the smaller knob of a Seagull TLR camera model that has two of them (the other is used for the Hero Macro)
  • Small Knobs on the side – from a Seagull TLR camera (however, there seems to be a small variation in the shape)
  • Small knobs on the transition box lid – from a Yashica TLR camera. As far as I could tell they look the same on all models, so I picked up the cheapest I could find.
  • Lens plate – looks to be hand made from plexiglass.
  • Transition box – looks to be hand made from aluminum sheet.
  • Belt clip - looks to be hand made from aluminum or steel sheet.
  • Light meter on the top (bubbles + black plastic honeycomb piece) – from the Mamiya W8 camera.
  • Viewfinder Hood – Kalimar Six Sixty, same as on the hero.
  • Black disc on the top – unidentified ☹
  • Side box – unidentified ☹. Looks like the main part is a found object.
  • Top box – another mystery box. ☹ Looks like might be handmade, but maybe a part of a camera finder was used.
Then I moved to study the references for the paint and weathering. These look a little different from reference to reference, so I guess the prop was at least partially repainted during filming.

Main body and lenses are painted with the same color initially. I’m not sure what they used originally, but I used Archive X “Lark Dark Gray”. The lens plate, the transition box and some other sections are painted black. For the part that sits between the body and the transition box I used some light gray paint from Archive X.

View attachment 1756366

Sometimes in the movie and on some references the lenses look like they were painted in a little lighter color than the body:

View attachment 1756367

I decided to leave the body and the lenses the same color and cover them with little fine desert dust to make them look lighter in color.

The big lens is painted in several little different ways (not counting the weathering) from parts left silver to uniformly “Lark Dark Gray” for the body and black for the side knob:


View attachment 1756368
I think the variant on the left looks best, but in the movie it is mostly like on the right one.

The small knobs are sometimes silver, sometimes painted dark (maybe also the knurling on the big knob). The upper small knob might even be missing:


View attachment 1756365


Note on the small knobs shape: Most of the Seagull knobs I’ve seen are like on the last picture on the right below.

But one set has little different knurling and looks maybe closer to the reference picture so I used it for the build (middle picture)

View attachment 1756369

Difference is minimal and maybe I’ve picked the wrong variation for this build, but eventually I made a second build from my “incorrect” leftover parts and used the second pair of knobs for it.

The Kalimar Viewfinder hood looks to be pained the same color like the main body, although it could be just that original blueish Kalimar color is rendered really close to it on these old film pictures. The square plate with the logo that is painted black.

View attachment 1756371
For now I've painted the square part black, but left the rest of it in the original color. I think the mismatched color gives it the kind of "repaired with whatever was available" look that fits well with the star wars universe.

Paint wear, dust – sometimes there’s less sometimes there’s more. For my build I just tried to replicate the best reference picture from each side that I could find although they might have been from different states of the prop.

Light meter bubbles were initially intact, but at some point were broken and less than a half of them left:

View attachment 1756370

Interestingly, the honeycomb and the bubbles are packed in a nice metal frame inside the camera originally. I guess it will take some effort to remove them from there, so I wonder why they didn't just use the whole part with the frame. Maybe because they tried to match the one on the hero.

Given the number of unidentified parts I've accepted that this is not going to be a completely accurate build, so I've decided to change few things and this is one of them. I never really liked the way the bubbles are just glued on top of the Macros (both the stunt and the hero). It's no problem in the movie, but looks really fake when you have it on display and can look at it from a close distance.
So I used the whole part as it is in the metal frame instead of taking out just the bubbles and the honeycomb.


OK, so this post is already getting too long so I’ll continue with my interpretation of the mystery parts and the actual build in a follow up sometime next week.

Meanwhile, please let me know if you have some corrections, better references, etc.

None of my builds is really “Done” – I’m always willing to improve them when new information becomes available, or more accurate parts are found.
Awesome! First time i've heard of the stunt version!
 
So here it is, more or less it turned out the way I imagined it. In certain light and angle it looks better and more realistic, in other little too fake for my taste.
I'm not sure if I managed to capture that with the photos:
View attachment 1749235
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View attachment 1749237

View attachment 1749238
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View attachment 1749243
View attachment 1749244

Finally, this is how I think it should really look like after using it for some time in a desert world. At least, this is how all my gear starts to look like after camping for a couple of days in the desert:
View attachment 1749245

View attachment 1749247
View attachment 1749248
View attachment 1749249
View attachment 1749250

Anyway, lots of pictures, but it was fun messing with it this weekend - I hope you like it.
I never noticed the threading on that side greeblie! Great work
 

My journey with the Stunt Macro (part 2)​

Continuing where I left off last time… the bubbles and their enclosure.

Here’s a picture of the complete unit:
1699117738243.png



Why not use it as it is?? It even has nice loops so it can be screwed at the top of the camera and will look really cool. I don’t have such small drill bit and tap though, so I just used a double-sided tape and glued some small pieces over the loops to make it look like it is rivetted.


The Mystery Disc

I guess this could have come from anywhere. But just looks too much like the discs on the old film cameras with a hole to mount to a tripod. After looking briefly for some other options, I’ve decided to focus just on camera discs and use the one that is most similar in terms of size and shape that I can find.

What I could make out from the picture:
1699118150942.png

I see chrome part with the thread in the middle, then black ring then some grayish area and then another black ring as the rim of the disc.
The grayish area is probably filled with tiny concentric circles (it is a very common pattern in these discs) and there’s desert dust stuck between them that makes it look gray (plus the lack of resolution in the pictures).

The disc does not look to be very thick, and I assume they had to drill a hole to install it, at least for the chrome part with the thread.

In fact, the disc on the Kalimar camera matches the description (imagine it painted black), except that it is too big:

1699118091868.png


I’ve quickly found out that the discs on the typical 35mm film cameras are generally too small, and the ones from TLR cameras are generally too big. They are also usually too thick or hard to remove from the camera. Very few are black, most are chrome (but can be painted, so I didn’t consider that to be a dealbreaker). Another problem is that apparently most sellers on ebay for example don’t bother to post pictures from that side of the cameras they sell.

I could not find any that looked like a good match and decided to use the one from the Kalimar for the time being. I was thinking to maybe look again for something better after I’m done with the rest of the build. While I was working on the transition box I remembered that I had a couple of TLR cameras that I just used for display at my old place, but I never took them out of the box after I moved. Took them out and immediately noticed that one is much smaller than a typical TLR camera (I had totally forgotten how they look). It was a Sawyer’s Mark IV and initially I dismissed it was chrome and it had “JAPAN” stamped on it and some other markings:

1699118171984.png


but then I realized the size is very close match and when painted the markings practically won’t be visible.

Here it is installed – painted black and weathered with some desert dust:

1699121414819.png



The side Mystery Box

It can be spotted in few different scenes, but the best few frames are when Luke and C3PO are waiting for the red droid and then for R2D2 after the red one malfunctions.

1699121813591.png


and here:

1699122160474.png




It should also be at least somewhat similar to the Mystery box on the hero is a EIAJ plug:

1699122804399.png


In fact, it practically looks the same in the movie:

1699144789787.png


even if that does not prove the box on the stunt is also made from the same plug, it must be something really similar.

What I could make out of it is:

1699122868761.png


Metal rectangular box with rounded corners painted flat black. Some paint wear around the edges. More on the front side (towards the lenses). Appears flat, without scratches or details (but there could be, just the pictures are too small and blurry to tell for sure). About the same size and shape of the EIAJ plug , but maybe just a little smaller.


The sides:
1699122911224.png


On each side of the box there is a single line from edge to edge at about 2/3 of the length of the box. The lines look straight, so this was one of the things that made me think it can't actually be EIAJ plug as it is not flat on the sides so the line should look like this from these angles: _----_ or -__- instead of straight -----.

Front side(towards the lenses):
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Gets smaller than the main box body, probably with a step, has more paint wear than the sides. Then on top of it there’s something that looks like roughly rectangular flat plate (first picture above), bigger than the front but slightly shorter smaller size than the main body. I assume it is somewhat similar to the front of the hero mystery box.


Back side:
1699123386063.png


On the back side of the box there’s another rectangular plate. This one is slightly larger than the back wall of the box. In the middle of the rectangle there’s something that could be a knob (for example like those small knobs on the hood or the other side of the camera), a thumbscrew or maybe just a simple screw:
1699123448274.png


Initially I thought it is like the part of the EIAJ plug where the cable goes in, but from what I can see - the proportions do not seem to match (for that part in particular).

So roughly looking first from the side, and then front of the box, this is what I see:

1699123565628.png

Not to far from EIAJ plug, but also the shape is pretty similar to these (especially if you drill a hole in the middle of a rectangular plate on put it on the rear side):
1699123652704.png



Maybe a similar plug/connector exists that is 1) little larger; 2) more rectangular; 3)made of aluminum or other metal (but not copper/brass), but I could not find anything that matches.

However, it does not make much sense to me that it is just a rectangular plate glued on the back side of the main box. My interpretation is that it is actually L-shaped bracket that is either glued or held with screws to the side of the body and then the mystery box is attached to it with this knob/screw thing in the center:

1699123698981.png


For the scratches on the sides I’ve ultimately decided that the main body is made of two connected parts and what looks like a scratch is paint wear around the edge of one of them. I’m not saying it is actually like this, because it looks just like scratch on the pictures, but this is how I decided to build it with the parts that I could find.

I found a small lot of some vintage connectors and used 2 pairs to make two mystery boxes. Used one for the build, and this is the other:

1699123811912.png



The little square is inspired by this screenshot:

1699123872834.png

where it kind of looks like there’s a black square. The thumbscrew is a dial from a film camera, probably from the Neoca that I used for the lens.

The connectors were Chinch Jones 8 pin similar to these:

1699123896399.png


The one that ended on the build is just a little different, as you can’t have 2 props be exactly the same in star wars.

1699123912908.png


On my “wrong and leftover parts” build that followed shortly after I used a right-angle EIAJ plug just so it does not go to waste. I cut the part where the cable goes in (as it was on the side) and this time used just a plain thumbscrew that I had lying around.

1699123925098.png

I like how it looks better than the other two, maybe if all the shiny parts and the tab are painted black it will be as close to what I see in the movie.

Here are some size comparison pictures (the piece in the middle in the first picture is the part I cut from the EIAJ plug):
1699124134433.png



The "transition box"

Here are the 3 main references that I used for the shape and later for the weathering:

1699127525650.png
1699127562043.png
1699127692067.png


As far as I can tell it is made of 3 parts. 2 sides and a cover that attaches to them with 2 screws on one side and 1 on the other (and the shapes of the side sections are not he same) . Of course there are the 2 knobs from the Yashica camera installed in the middle.

The two side pieces have a small part bent at straight angle at the top side where the Kalimar hood is attached with 2 small screws on each side piece. I was not sure how exactly it is attached, but after some experimenting I added additional small pieces to make something like a clamp on each side that is held together by the small screws.

The side piece that is towards the side knobs is attached with a single screw to the side of the camera part.
The other side piece after some thinking I decided goes inside the opening where the light meter bubbles used to be.
Here's a rough drawing of my design (not to scale):

1699128368561.png


There does not seem to be anything closing the box from below as can be seen in the picture below. I didn't like how it looks and wanted to add another piece there but so far I have not done (also wanted to add a little screen inside to look at when you open the Kalimar hood , but have not done that yet either).

Note that some of the parts of the Kalimar hood are missing. I'm not sure if it was broken by accident or they had to remove them so it can open and close when installed (however mine opens and closes and I didn't have to remove or cut any parts).

1699150295741.png





The Lens Plate

1699128590584.png


This is the single best reference for the lens plate that I could find. Looks like plexiglass or some acrylic plate (what's the difference??) painted black. 3 holes for the screws to attach it to the body. Only 2 screws are used though, one is missing. Of course, on this picture one of the lenses is also missing, so maybe is not very representative in regard to what was generally missing on the prop and what not. But where the missing screw should go there is a gap between the plate and the camera body (because of the weird camera body shape) that at least requires a longer screw then the others.

1699149633986.png


Because of this, I guess it is very possible that they drilled the plate, then realized they can’t actually use the screw (maybe was too short) and left it out.

I could not see it in any other reference, so in my build I drilled the hole only on the plate and left it without a screw.

The Miranda was an interchangeable lens camera so I could take the mount out of the camera body and screw it on the lens plate. It allows the lens to be attached and detached from the stunt macro just like on the original camera. However, the focusing ring can’t be turned all the way to infinity because the rear of the lens hits the lens plate (that’s unless you drill a large hole in the plate behind the lens, but I didn’t bother).

1699128791063.png


I don’t know if they used the mount at all (probably not) or just drilled and tapped some holes in the lens and used screws like for the other one, but to me it is the better way to do it. Also allows me to switch between 2 lenses that are painted differently.

1699152944028.png


The Neoca was a fixed lens camera so there was no mount that I could use. The lens are mounted to a small plate, that is in turn mounted to the camera body:

1699128928930.png


I was tempted to install it with this plate as it looked nice, but was obviously not accurate, so I only used the plate as a template for where to drill the holes.

I had to glue together some of the lens parts that came loose when the lens were removed from the camera and also cut the lever that sticks out of the back of the lens. (I guess I could have drilled a hole for it but it was just easier to cut it). Found some longer screws that could go all the way through the plate I made and screw into the original holes on the lens.

The top "Mystery Box"

This one is not such a mystery, as just from the picture below one can figure the general shape and size of the box:
1699145203731.png

So it is another rectangular box, top corners are rounded, two cheesehead slotted screws hold it in place. Front side is painted black, back side light gray.
But was it entirely scratch made part or some found part was used? Is this highlight in the picture above a little finder window? To me it looks very much like it, like there's a glass rectangle and a hint of the screw behind it ...
Is the front (black) side of the box flat or is there a little step like what I think I'm seeing here?
1699145737267.png


I've decided to add a little window and also make a step. Used the viewfinder from the Neoca Camera:
1699149565292.png

So as I had to follow the shape of the viewfinder it ended being little different from what I actually wanted it to look like, but I think it's good enough ... I'm still not sure about the step, but if I find some picture where I can see clearly that there's no step I can easily fill it with some sculpting putty and paint it over

1699152336779.png



The Belt Clip

1699149926982.png


Pretty good references for the shape and size, held with 2 screws to the bottom plate of the camera. Worn black paint on the outside, black on the inside. Tip is almost exactly aligned with the tip of the shorter lens (last picture). Funny enough on the last picture the bigger lens is missing this time.
After I made my clip and installed it I found it little annoying sticking out that much, so I've shortened it a bit to somewhere at the middle of the lens:
1699152740197.png
 
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My journey with the Stunt Macro (part 3)​

Besides what I've described already I've tried various other ideas that didn't turn out that great. And other ideas that I didn't have the time or motivation to explore so far. The slide viewers I got with the intention to make some sort of screen inside the hood are one of these ideas.
However, as they were just sitting around I eventually figured out that they can be used as some sort of stands/docking stations for the Marco.
I've not finalized this idea yet, but you'll see how it is shaping in the pictures that I've taken while finalizing the Macro build.

So time for some pictures. You might guess that I really liked this build as I've taken tons of pictures.

This is the state of the build where I've said to myself "OK, that's it - I already like it as it is and don't want to change it". I didn't want to fully weather it or add the belt clip as I thought it will just sit on the stand for display and the clip will only get in the way.

1699240982163.png


Then I got another lens to paint it in the other scheme that's seen on some of the reference pictures:

1699241494056.png



I think it looks even better with it, gives it a little more character compared to when the whole thing is just this dull green/gray color

1699241523897.png


I had it on display like this for many months until I eventually decided to give it the full desert treatment:

1699239349857.png


Of course, I didn't want to keep it that dusty, it was just part of the weathering process (and to take some pictures for fun :) ). I knew that the paint will also wear and chip here and there as I'm working on it, so "after the dust settled" I hoped to have it look naturally weathered.

And just like I hoped happen - after I wiped the dust off a little (especially on the main body) the lenses started to look like painted with a different paint than the body, just like in the movie:

1699242934463.png
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The other thing I wanted is to have the disc look like it is kind of gray in the middle (from a distance) because of the dust - and I think that also was achieved:

1700361655230.png


For the thansition box I tried to match the weathering and scratches to make it more recognizable:

1700362023803.png

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Just one last picture for now - here's how the "docking station" idea is shaping up:

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