Vader's TIE from old MPC kit

Toadmeister, you're really kicking this! I had a thought on making those U-shaped pieces, unfortunately too late to help you, though perhaps a useful 'process' for future projects. You *could have* made a small wooden form that had the cross section of the interior of the curved part. Then, using hot, but not boiling water, heat up a section of the strip plastic to make it more pliable, then wrap it aroun the wooden form and clamp it. Then heat the water to boiling, give the whole shebang a quick dip and then allow to cool. Using the form would allow for consistent pieces with less 'fiddling'.
Does this make sense?
Again, wonderful job (and I 'second' your thoughts on armor kits and greeblies... invaluable for projects like my mash up project, described here: Something New from Something Else – a Kit Mash-Up Adventure | Hampton Roads Scale Modelers
Regards, Robert
Oh yes, and I tried something very similar. At this extreme bend, The styrene seemed to have enough memory that after cooling back down and/or contacting the liquid cement wanted to bend back too much again.

Trial and error got me close enough.
 
One option could be to use brass or similar wire, put in a U-Shape using a jig to ensure uniform shapes for multiple pieces, then flatten it in a rolling mill

Could probably do something similar with plastic sprues and heating them before squashing flat between some weights
 
One option could be to use brass or similar wire, put in a U-Shape using a jig to ensure uniform shapes for multiple pieces, then flatten it in a rolling mill

Could probably do something similar with plastic sprues and heating them before squashing flat between some weights

I actually tried that too. The flattened brass didn’t look that good to me. Ultimately styrene was the easiest to work with and bond via liquid cement.
 
I was vexed on the best way to route the wires for the LEDs and mount a stand to display the finished model. I have the wires currently poking out a slot that the kit used for it’s flimsy clear display.

The studio scale model has a hex support centered on the lower ball. This was probably a very structural mount for filming. I don’t need anything that big or strong.View attachment 972615



So I’m using the kit slot as it’s better hidden. I cut it out more and stuck in a brass C-section that the wires can route and inside, and l’ll cover it up with another boxed support sectiom
IMG_0027.jpg
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.
 
Priming Day.

Using Tamiya grey fine surface primer on the main fusalage. This stuff is usually fool proof. My c-channel makes a nice handle for painting.

Decided to just spray paint the wings Tamiya black. This may have been a mistake as I did have a paint run on the outer solar panels...ARRRGH! I'll have to wait until it fully cures to evaluate.

IMG_20190106_101001674.jpeg
IMG_20190106_101006152.jpeg
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Things turned out OK with the solar panels, I'm relieved.

As it should, grey primer illustrated a lot of small imperfections on the surface. The panel lines I scribed are the worst offenders. It will take a little work to clean them up.

Did a quick dry fit if the main fusalage, starting to look the part.
1546808930639.jpeg
 
Panel lines are always one of the hardest things for me to do cleanly.

Sometimes I'll hide my mis-scribes with blast marks or paint scratches [emoji38]
Those panel lines are particular difficult over the ball cockpit.

I would have just done pencil lines but the other panel lines on the kit are so heavy I was just trying for consistency.
 
Are you gonna keep the boxed version of the wing panel inserts?
The ones on the original are much flatter.
http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=2355
Yes, using the kit ones unmodified. I decided to draw the line somewhere otherwise the kit can really become a black hole :)

IIRC the original studio model has more shallow angles? Hard to compare directly in photos.

With the exception above, I like the kit wings and just wanted this portion to be trouble free on my build.
 
Yes, using the kit ones unmodified. I decided to draw the line somewhere otherwise the kit can really become a black hole :)

IIRC the original studio model has more shallow angles? Hard to compare directly in photos.

With the exception above, I like the kit wings and just wanted this portion to be trouble free on my build.
Makes sense, tbf the kit box looks okay as it is. Not to mention that it’s used in the ILM Tie bomber. Not sure about the angles. Masking and painting the solar panels black is gonna be a pain anyway.
 
Makes sense, tbf the kit box looks okay as it is. Not to mention that it’s used in the ILM Tie bomber. Not sure about the angles. Masking and painting the solar panels black is gonna be a pain anyway.
Actually, I've base coated black, will mask these "inside areas" and paint the ILM Stormy Sea frames.

Not necessarily easier but works good for me.
 
Actually, I've base coated black, will mask these "inside areas" and paint the ILM Stormy Sea frames.

Not necessarily easier but works good for me.
Yea saw the primed pics. I did the other way around with the Bandai because then I had to mask only one black panel accurately at a time, but different strokes, I’m sure it’ll work out. Keep up the good work, really curious how the ILM Stormy Sea will work out.
 
Wow, you are doing a damn fine job here! :)

I'm sorry to chime in so late but I guess it is not too late. I too have this kit and wanted to improve the Vader figure. It is the weakest part of the kit. My first attempt was filling the strange ridges that go straight through the eyes and the helmet. Then I painted it. It looked better than before and really didn't bother with the rest much since I though it would not be seen prominently on the finished model.

i29735baswtb.jpg


i29736buiudr.jpg


Then I got distracted and put it into its box again - for almost a decade! THANK GOODNESS - my laziness paid off :D because in the meantime Revell released their version of the TIE-Advanced. The whole kit is very similar to the mpc one with three major exceptions: It is slightly smaller and the cockpit interior was completely different. And the best part: It came with a new, much better looking Vader figure.

i29734btjozi.jpg


i29733blthll.jpg


The Revell one is on the left, BTW. ;)

This is how it looks inside the mpc cockpit:

i29737bx4m78.jpg


A difference like night and day, if you ask me. :)

The smaller scale of the figure is not too bad. On the contrary, it makes the whole ship appear larger. Which is a good thing for a Sith-piloted craft. :)
 
Wow, you are doing a damn fine job here! :)

I'm sorry to chime in so late but I guess it is not too late. I too have this kit and wanted to improve the Vader figure. It is the weakest part of the kit. My first attempt was filling the strange ridges that go straight through the eyes and the helmet. Then I painted it. It looked better than before and really didn't bother with the rest much since I though it would not be seen prominently on the finished model.

View attachment 976140

View attachment 976141

Then I got distracted and put it into its box again - for almost a decade! THANK GOODNESS - my laziness paid off :D because in the meantime Revell released their version of the TIE-Advanced. The whole kit is very similar to the mpc one with three major exceptions: It is slightly smaller and the cockpit interior was completely different. And the best part: It came with a new, much better looking Vader figure.

View attachment 976142

View attachment 976143

The Revell one is on the left, BTW. ;)

This is how it looks inside the mpc cockpit:

View attachment 976144

A difference like night and day, if you ask me. :)

The smaller scale of the figure is not too bad. On the contrary, it makes the whole ship appear larger. Which is a good thing for a Sith-piloted craft. :)
Most excellent!

PM sent
 
Working on it slowly, it’s hard to fill and sand little areas efficiently or enthusiastically. Chipping away at it slowly.

I also started my Zvezda Star Destroyer build, I’ll start a separate thread on that one once this is done.
 
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