1/350 TOS E is happening.

I finally received my deluxe accessory kit (less than 72 hours after I threatened to cancel) and while I shouldn't have had to wait, 2 months,it was worth it. I am just about done hooking up the lights and noticed I had just enough goods to do the optional nacelle lighting,even though I did all the saucer lighting. Anyone else? Also is that little clear piece above the bussard supposed to be a light? Wondering if its worth the hassle to run a couple fibers from those to the blinkers on the saucer? My refit has all the blinkies and I don't want any light envy going on on the shelf.

What a great kit. Just beautifully engineered. I love it:love. I wish they would put this effort into another run at the refit. I have been finally building mine,and compared to the TOS E, it's a Rubik's cube. But I should be greatful there are such beautiful models around nowadays. The kits from the 70s and 80s were always a box of disappoint. Well,back to dry dock.:rolleyes
 
You said what I was thinking... running fiber to those 'lights'.

I also considered, sine I may not light the impulse engines, splicing in those LEDs to that area.

Also, after you mentioned 'extra' LED tape, I counted out mine.

From what I could tell, the instructions call for 17 segments a 3 LEDs. My length of tape has 24 segments available.
 
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Rahn420 said:
You said what I was thinking... running fiber to those 'lights'.

I also considered, sine I may not light the impulse engines, splicing in those LEDs to that area.

Also, after you mentioned 'extra' LED tape, I counted out mine.

From what I could tell, the instructions call for 17 segments a 3 LEDs. My length of tape has 24 segments available.
Click to expand...

Yeah I saw you mention my post as I was looking over hobbytalk but there I am a lurker. As yours two of mine were soldered together. I cut them and used them by just shaving down the solder. I most likely not run a light up there as you'd need to drill a hole in the pcb and I am too scared of screwing up the board.
 
Fett_Ish said:
Yeah I saw you mention my post as I was looking over hobbytalk but there I am a lurker. As yours two of mine were soldered together. I cut them and used them by just shaving down the solder. I most likely not run a light up there as you'd need to drill a hole in the pcb and I am too scared of screwing up the board.
Click to expand...

Hmm... I hadn't saw it that far through. Drilling the PCB would make me nervous, as well.

Do any of the flashing bussard lights have the same timing? Maybe run a short fiber to one of those?
 
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moffeaton said:
That's a good point. If these fizzle out one day down the road, I'll be a sad little panda...
Click to expand...

The LEDs are supposed to be of differing height.
If you look at the stems/tabs of the static amber teardrop lights, they sit further down in the 'christmas tree' mounts than the smaller blinking LEDs.
The raised LEDs sit higher because the tabs on the red, green or blue blinking lights have shorter tabs.
 
That may be a possibility. But, on my boards, one has them all about the same height, the other board has more random heights... not alternating half short, half tall.
 
Something I would like to see...

A 3 piece bridge (a floor with two wall sections).

Painting this single piece bridge can be a pain.
 
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Furthermore, make it a three-piece bridge minus the molded-in railing for ease of installing the photoetch railings from Paragrafix. That'd be awesome.
 
I could deal with the molded railings (since it is viewed from straight above). It's just hard to paint the floor and not the consoles/chairs, or paint the consoles and not the floor.

At least at my level.

Step up, after market.
 
Rahn420 said:
I could deal with the molded railings (since it is viewed from straight above). It's just hard to paint the floor and not the consoles/chairs, or paint the consoles and not the floor.

At least at my level.

Step up, after market.
Click to expand...

One solution I thought of to combat that issue is Paragrafix's PE set.

You could shape the consoles to how they'll fit into the bridge, but paint them and the monitors separately then glue them in place.

That way, you'd be able to both paint the floor and consoles. Anyway, that's the way I was thinking of going about it for mine, when I get to it.
 
One thing I've found that helps with painting a small bridge like this is the use of washes. Where paint edges might be slightly sloppy, a fine black wash does a great job to clean up the edges and it works great when it comes to adding those black edges to the steps down into the central command area. Don't worry too much about getting too precise with the paintwork though as once the bridge is installed in the dome, at best you are only going to be seeing it from straight up anyway.
 
phase pistol said:
The inevitable comparison shots: Master Replicas vs Round 2.


P1140398.jpg






WoW! I didn't realize the MR was a bigger model! Clearly the scale is not the same. :eek
Click to expand...
 
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