Interest 2-1b head kit.....version 3

[zorg]

I would be interested in one for a potential G2-1B7 build.

Did you see the 1 I sold a while back?

Update on the head, almost everything is being reworked. Eye shapes, chin, nose width and length, mic moved up face a touch. Bulking out the cheeks under the eyes. The whole back of the head is being reshaped.
I only had a dvd and 1 pic from the archives book when I sculpted it first, way back. Now there are a ton of ref out there to help.

Sorry for lack of pictures, I will upload some when I get the chance.

Cheers

 

[flthymcnsty]

Did you see the 1 I sold a while back?

Yeah, I saw it, it turned out great! Looking forward to seweing your imporovements.

 

[TatooineMachine]

I’m definitely in Chris

 

[zorg]

some progress pics, there are almost no areas that have been untouched.
changes include......the rear of the head has been completely changed, there has been approx 6 -7 mm added to the top of the head and the shape more in keeping with the screen droid. much more tuck around the bottom edge at the rear.


the top of the front half has had additional material added and angle changed, eye shapes changed or enlarged. nose bulked out and shape more bulbous. bridge of nose flattened. point of chin lengthened. i am going to get some grain of wheat bulbs for the eyes as i believe that is what was used, i will try 3mm and 4mm. i think 3mm might be too small.

i am adding flaws and misaligned parts as part of the sculpt, as per the reference i have. i also found an additional 2 silver disks on the rear of the head just like the ones on the side of the face. never noticed them before.

there has been additional work done to it not pictured yet, i have a list of other areas to address and will work through them, it should look quite different from version 1 and 2 in my opinion.
there will not be a version 4.
all these changes add up i hope you will agree. i will attempt to copy as best i can the pitted texture once i finalise the shape. there will be no positive texture this time only depressions. as per reference.

i am awaiting a couple of other mic housings to double check their shape (non HML) before this goes into silicone.
anyhoo here you go.....

z

 

[zorg]

Here are the rear details i mentioned

 

[russellsch]

Love this

 

[xwingercrash]

Count me in

 

[Gtrouse]

please put me down for one

 

[TatooineMachine]

I’m down for a few!

 

[Sherman Archibald]

I'm in for one, of course.

Looking forward to painting a lot of Zorg stuff this summer.

 

[zorg]

here are some mic reference pics for you to decide what mic is best for you., the HML are harder to get and generally more expensive.

the droid head is still a work in progress and is not finalised.. 3 mics tested.

shout out to TheLordFett for supplying the additional mics


HML #1

HML#2

SERIES 2...very slight difference in shape as i predicted but its within reasonable tolerances with a little fettling or filler. maybe i'm being too fussy.

series 2 is ever so slightly shorter on this one but again i can't see it being an issue.

also something i have seen before is a difference in the width of the central strip at the front, so check that out on what you are buying.
my undersized resin casting is still 1mm wider at the front area than this series 2....

z

 

[russellsch]

Time to rummage through the inter webs for Shure microphones.

 

[Jediseth]

Chris, I'm curious how you came up the clear neck part used on the 2-1B? I have been trying to figure that part out.

 

[Jediseth]

Oh ya I forgot to say and I’m in thanks!

 

[zorg]

guys, i had a chat with kurtyboy and he pointed out the series 2 doesn't have the hole at the bottom where the clear tube gets attached.

i've never noticed this before and don't ever recall having to drill out a hole when fitting to resin heads. i must have done 2 or 3.

if you have fitted a real mic before did you have to drill a hole?????

cheers

chris

 

[zorg]

Chris, I'm curious how you came up the clear neck part used on the 2-1B? I have been trying to figure that part out.

here is the buck made from car body filler (WIP)

here are the necks pre trimming

here is a petg and a white styrene version which i tried first to try out if the buck would work.

hope this helps

z

 

[Jediseth]

here is the buck made from car body filler (WIP)

View attachment 1469881
here are the necks pre trimming
View attachment 1469882
here is a petg and a white styrene version which i tried first to try out if the buck would work.
View attachment 1469883

hope this helps

z

I’ve been watching videos on how to heat up and vacuum that plastic. You got to build a box and get enough heat to melt it properly. It looks fun, but I don’t think it’s easy to get it right their first try. Looks really good, you got a nice buck.

 

[zorg]

here is the buck made from car body filler (WIP)

I’ve been watching videos on how to heat up and vacuum that plastic. You got to build a box and get enough heat to melt it properly. It looks fun, but I don’t think it’s easy to get it right their first try. Looks really good, you got a nice buck.

Although this wasn't my first vac forming job I did build a frame and got it to work first time. I've probably done more than 100 pulls all together and maybe had 5 rejects.
Consistency is the key I find. If you get a successful pull just replicate it, Find the temp that works. also have a timer running. Another thing I always say is the buck must be completely free from debris and dust. One little spec of dust will show as a blemish on the clear pieces. Once I get a rhythm going I can churn out the pulls.

 

[INFLUX]

if you have fitted a real mic before did you have to drill a hole?????

No the hole was already there.
Oh also I'm interested.

 

[zorg]

No the hole was already there.
Oh also I'm interested.

I'm also sure mine had holes #confused

maybe it's the mandela effect?