Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 painted pieces

[zombienoms]

Hey Doc I just had some questions about the build, mostly the hands. So you use freehand foam based on zabana files which you coat using your PVA/modpudge, electrical tape paint method.

I saw someone mention that you might be using styrene foam? Is that different from EVA foam? what's the flexibility on it and in comparison if it is different.

What thickness is the foam you use and what kind of sizing/spacing are in your gloves. I had issues with my original gloves being flexible and also being able to close my hand as fully as i wanted. It seems like if the glove is thin enough to flex around it will be weak but if it gets thick then the glove will be a chunky mitten that I imagine would be hot, and hard to manipulate.

The sizing was also an issue for me, it seemed like the glove fit nicely before but then when I put it on the knuckles were too long and so my fingertip pieces would slip off. I would resize but they were already fairly tight around my fingers. The tightness and in general small size also meant that I didn't fiberglass the insides as it seemed impractical to do without making them impossible to get on after. So really gloves are a bit of a weak point for me that I would appreciate any advice in tackling.

Sidenote: what's the point of the foam and rondo method? It seems that for high detail pieces you use card stock bond, and if you want lightweight and some flexibility you for for foam. I feel like putting on layers of rondo takes away some of the main reasons to use foam at all so what exactly are the advantages?

 

[Iron Spidey88]

Any word from Doc yet?

 

[budashlock]

Nope...nothing.

 

[Artimis]

I am having a hard time with the Gardner & Bender LET spray recommended on this thread. It seems that no matter what I do, I am getting a very uneven finish on the surface.....irregular/bubbly texture. All the pics I've seen show a very smooth finish.

Any tips or techniques?

 

[DRG]

For Doc or anyone who has attempted some of these techniques... is there a huge difference in the results between the first flexible method (PlastiDip/Duplicolor adhesion promoter/primer/paint/Krylon glaze) and the newer method (LET/SEM primer/paint/SEM clearcoat)?

I ask because the materials in the original flex method are readily available locally and relatively inexpensive, while the materials in the newer method are more expensive and I can't even get SEM stuff around here. I understand the newer method must be better, but how much better? And in what way?

 

[darkside501st]

I am surprised we haven't heard from Doc in quite some time. Have you all that ordered things from him been getting your orders fulfilled?

 

[Atlas crafts]

I am surprised we haven't heard from Doc in quite some time. Have you all that ordered things from him been getting your orders fulfilled?

I was just wondering how everyone was doing with their orders. hope all is well with everyone... Dark, I know what you meant by life getting in the way, it never stops! and I agree a little patience and communication is best policy! :thumbsup

 

[laellee]

I was just wondering how everyone was doing with their orders. hope all is well with everyone... Dark, I know what you meant by life getting in the way, it never stops! and I agree a little patience and communication is best policy! :thumbsup

I am surprised we haven't heard from Doc in quite some time. Have you all that ordered things from him been getting your orders fulfilled?

Doc bailed with most everyone's money, and is ignoring the RPF now. If anyone here is owed anything (and hasn't posted to his old FS thread already), please post the amount paid and date of purchase in his thread linked below so you can be added to the list of outstanding orders.

http://www.therpf.com/f84/new-foam-ironman-gloves-temporary-closed-till-next-run-161762/index17.html

 

[batmanbeyond96]

Did you add me to the list laellee with my PM's awhile back?

Doc bailed with most everyone's money, and is ignoring the RPF now. If anyone here is owed anything (and hasn't posted to his old FS thread already), please post the amount paid and date of purchase in his thread linked below so you can be added to the list of outstanding orders.

http://www.therpf.com/f84/new-foam-ironman-gloves-temporary-closed-till-next-run-161762/index17.html

 

[laellee]

Did you add me to the list laellee with my PM's awhile back?

I just had it for a set of finished gloves with repulsors from February? I don't have an amount, though, thought they were $360.

 

[batmanbeyond96]

The amount was $190. This was before all the upgrades he did to the gloves and when he would offer the upgrades he gave some of them for free and I ordered the gloves in march of 2013

I just had it for a set of finished gloves with repulsors from February? I don't have an amount, though, thought they were $360.

 

[bobafettsslave1]

just under one year and still waiting,

 

[SupermanJP]

Doc owes me $3,600. I've given him plenty of chances to respond. The last time I received an email from him was early Feb. Today I'll be contacting a lawyer about this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SupermanJP]

Hey everyone. As of now I'm going with a collection agency that was recommended by my lawyer. If anyone that hasn't recorded their stuff from Doc and would like me to put you in contact with the agency just shoot me a PM and I'll give you the details.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Body Snatcher]

Before Doc took off did he ever devulge to anyone his secret technique for soldering lines into the foam. He's the only one I ever saw who could create clean lines like that. Every time I asked or inquired he dodged the question and never answered. So....is it a trade secret or does anyone else know. Or does anyone have any advice or resources for doing so. I tried heating up a piece of a wire coat hanger and pressed into the foam. It made a good line but I never perfected the technique and depending on the shape of the piece it was always a little off, even if I drew the lines first for reference.....any helped would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[laellee]

Line soldering is actually pretty easy, even in 2mm craft foam. Go buy a cheap soldering iron from Radio Shack for $10 (only for burning though, you'll dirty up the tip for soldering) and try freehanding on extra foam scraps. I just trace my detail lines out in ink, and then (with two hands for control) drag the tip at an even speed, burning in the details. You can also use a metal ruler as a guide for straight lines such as finger ribbing and such, the trick is to just have smooth even movements. If you drag it over a line and it comes out too thin, you can go right back over again to widen it, using the cone shape of the tip at an angle. I burn all my details in before PVA and Plastidip, otherwise it can cause an uneven burn.

I had to add some inserts for an elbow joint, the pic below is just 2mm Walmart craft foam that I traced evenly spaced lines on and burned in with the soldering iron. Depending on the angle of the iron and the speed you go, you can get grooves anywhere from 1mm wide up to nearly a 1/4 inch. Top is the insert installed, bottom is the craft foam flat after paint and velcro. Looks really sharp, and can be done VERY fast:

 

[DRG]

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

In the meantime, I've hit upon a combination of techniques that render a non-cracking finish and it's almost criminal in it's simplicity. Mind you, most of this is originally Doc's method.

I still found I got some cracking on the thicker foams when painting my suits, even with Doc's technique.

Then I had a conversation with a client of mine that owns a body shop. I told him about the suits and our painting woes. After I described the process, he advised me to eliminate one of the products and then use a scuffing pad.

I tried it. You wouldn't believe the difference it makes. I have a piece of 12mm foam that I painted yesterday and have spent the past day bending it, TRYING to get it to crack and it won't. Here is the method:

First off, don't use Mod Podge. It cracks to start with setting you up for failure later. Instead use good ole' Elmers Glue (white PVA). Four coats should do it. Stays very flexible when dry.

Second, use a scuff pad or very fine grit sandpaper, just scuff the surface of the glue to provide a "tooth" for the primer to grab onto.

Third, use the SEM flexible primer Doc suggested earlier in his thread. Two light coats should be plenty. Scuff this surface also with your scuff pad or sandpaper.

Fourth, apply your paint of choice. I use Duplicolor for the metal flake in the paint. Again, two or three very light coats should do it. DO NOT SCUFF THIS LAYER.

Finally, apply 2 medium coats of SEM flexible clear or "color coat" as it's called on the can.

Be sure to allow 24 hours for the primer to dry thoroughly before applying the paint. Follow the paint up immediately once it's dry to the touch with your clear. After everything completely dries (24 to 48 hours), you should have an extremely flexible surface that looks great and wears just as great with no cracking!

I've been trying this technique but having a few difficulties I was hoping you could help me out with.

First of all, every time I use the SEM High Gloss Clear Color Coat (13003), it doesn't turn out shiny. I'm getting a matte look that's even dulling my shinier red coats. The can doesn't really have much for instructions (unlike most spray cans that are very specific)... are you supposed to shake for a minute it like standard paints? Or does shaking the can make things worse? Is there some other usage thing I might be doing wrong? I know it's not the underlying paints as they turn out really shiny (as they're supposed to) using the Krylon glaze.

Also, my Duplicolor paint cracked every time. Maybe my coats are too heavy? I think I'm not quite understanding what exactly a 'light coat' is (or a medium coat for that matter)... and this applies to all layers, not just the final coat. Like I did two coats I thought were light on one test, but that didn't even cover the piece. It seems like I have to spray the hell out of it just to get it completely covered with the color in two coats, but these sprays feel 'heavy' to me.

 

[AFDesigns]

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

I've been trying this technique but having a few difficulties I was hoping you could help me out with.

First of all, every time I use the SEM High Gloss Clear Color Coat (13003), it doesn't turn out shiny. I'm getting a matte look that's even dulling my shinier red coats. The can doesn't really have much for instructions (unlike most spray cans that are very specific)... are you supposed to shake for a minute it like standard paints? Or does shaking the can make things worse? Is there some other usage thing I might be doing wrong? I know it's not the underlying paints as they turn out really shiny (as they're supposed to) using the Krylon glaze.

Also, my Duplicolor paint cracked every time. Maybe my coats are too heavy? I think I'm not quite understanding what exactly a 'light coat' is (or a medium coat for that matter)... and this applies to all layers, not just the final coat. Like I did two coats I thought were light on one test, but that didn't even cover the piece. It seems like I have to spray the hell out of it just to get it completely covered with the color in two coats, but these sprays feel 'heavy' to me.

Hey DRG you almost had me worried because I have the same item (SEM Clear Color Coat (13003) but never got a chance to use it till today before going to work. I tried it on a scrap piece that was colored in BFM0344 toreador red met and I see what you mean by not looking shiny. I didn't experience the clear color coat dulling my red paint though. After the color coat I used regular clear coat that I got from advance auto or autozone on top of the color coat.

You get the shiny look and still flexible...also usually all spray cans say shake for 1 min and shake every now and then after spraying
hope this helps :thumbsup

 

[DRG]

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Hey DRG you almost had me worried because I have the same item (SEM Clear Color Coat (13003) but never got a chance to use it till today before going to work. I tried it on a scrap piece that was colored in BFM0344 toreador red met and I see what you mean by not looking shiny. I didn't experience the clear color coat dulling my red paint though. After the color coat I used regular clear coat that I got from advance auto or autozone on top of the color coat.

You get the shiny look and still flexible...also usually all spray cans say shake for 1 min and shake every now and then after spraying
hope this helps :thumbsup

Okay, I tried this last night (with Krylon Triple Glaze on top of the SEM clear) and it worked... although I was sure the others did NOT need this step with the product? Or maybe it was just unnecessary as part of the flex process.

Also, which flex technique did you do on the test piece? The version with the LET or BaseZero's no-LET version? The reason I ask is because the no-LET method failed with me. After picking at the cracked paint it seems I failed at the flexible primer stage, so either I didn't scuff the PVA enough or I made a mistake in spraying the flexible primer (too heavy, didn't shake the can long enough, etc.)

 

[AFDesigns]

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Okay, I tried this last night (with Krylon Triple Glaze on top of the SEM clear) and it worked... although I was sure the others did NOT need this step with the product? Or maybe it was just unnecessary as part of the flex process.

Also, which flex technique did you do on the test piece? The version with the LET or BaseZero's no-LET version? The reason I ask is because the no-LET method failed with me. After picking at the cracked paint it seems I failed at the flexible primer stage, so either I didn't scuff the PVA enough or I made a mistake in spraying the flexible primer (too heavy, didn't shake the can long enough, etc.)

I also did the grey flexible primer on my foam pieces and it didn't go well once I put the color on. When it comes to testing it for cracking apart, bending motion is inward/outward. Results I get outward just stretches no breaking and too much going inward gets wrinkles, but still no cracking.

so many trial and errors, but finally found what works for me.

steps
modpodge
white or black plasti dip (depending on the colors I'm using) spray can ver.
never really got to the last step with clear coat, but since I did the scrap piece.
I guess it will be the flexible color coat then use the regular coat to get the shiny look