Filler for props?

[LoneWanderer]

What do you guys like to use usually for filling gaps in prop guns or any other kind of prop? I'm looking for something to use so I can smooth out an edge that will dry and harden allowing my to sand a bit and smooth it before painting.

 

[bookface]

Usually either car body filler for larger holes or polyfiller (as you would use on a plaster wall) for small holes.

 

[nomuse]

I use bondo...straight bondo on big holes, Bondo Spot Putty on the remaining little problems.

 

[EmmaInCandyland]

Milliput

 

[Gimpdiggity]

I've used the polyfill type stuff that bookface mentioned on my models and 3D prints. It ends up working really well.

I'm going to try some Kneadatite (Green Stuff) on a model that I'm working on right now, though, because it needs to be able to be a bit more controlled in the way that it's put in place.

 

[Duncanator]

Bondo! It's spaceship-in-a-can! A tad brittle for structural bits, though.
For pinholes I'll use glazing putty.
If it is larger and needs to be stronger, I'll use Magic-sculpt - a 2 part epoxy putty that cures gradually over about 2 hours. You can rough sculpt it when you start, and then refine it as it hardens. Cool stuff.

 

[cavx]

Today I was casting in cheap quick set (D65) resin and mixed in a heap of "filler" called "Cabisol". This is a super light powder made to thicken resin and or silicone. Normally the D65 resin is water thin, but this stuff made it into a paste that I found actually sticks to vertical surfaces. The cool thing is it set the same as normal resin, felt as hard as the normal resin and seemed to sand equally as well. This makes it really handy to repair casts or build up on a part to sculpt additional details onto a cast.

The last time I used this, I must not have mixed it right (I mixed it into silicone) and I found it seemed "powerdry".
Today I measured my Part A, and mixed this in until it was a smooth past, then added part B, which loosened it up a touch, but it worked really well.

Just be sure to be up wind or wear googles and a mask. This stuff flies up really easy and would NOT be good breathed in or in your eyes.

 

[jake88]

I use Elmer's Damaged Wood. Its a 2 part epoxy resin thats sets up in 2 hours and is light weight and can be sanded just like wood. It cures up very smooth with no bubbles or shrinkage plus its half the price of Aves and you can get it off the shelf at Lowe's, I used it to build this phaser.

 

[Darth Lars]

- Milliput for most things.
- Spot putty for plastic models for the finest fills.
- For larger fills, Instead of auto body filler, I mix together epoxy resin and West System's filler powders, such as 409 Microspherer Blend. Epoxy does not stink up the house like polyester does, it has better adhesion than polyester and the stuff I use has a long work-time, which I prefer.

 

[Gixxerfool]

I used to use Milliput but moved on to Aves. I've used Durhams wood filler too.

 

[Halliwax]

depends on what product im working with. resin and 3d printed parts i use glazy putty.

any autoparts store should carry this. i believe i got mine from lowes.

all my ghostbusters friends use milliput, but i cant find it on the shelves anywhere in my area. otherwise i would use that. i have never had a problem with this glazing putty. for LARGER things that need filler or wood that im working with to smooth i use RAGE GOLD body filler. it is expensive, but that body filler goes on like butter!!! nothing compares, and sands with ease...

 

[mtotin]

I keep trying to use Milliput with some great successes and some great failures. My primary issues are with it not being "liquid" enough. It's a great epoxy putty and comes in various colors.

I keep hearing about mixing talc with superglue, but it seems like it would set too fast and be impossible to work with once it dries. So Bondo is my go to for large jobs and loctite's marine epoxy for small jobs. It takes a while to set, but it is fluid enough to give an even fill, and is workable, sandable and paintable once set. I've run anchored lag bolts into it that haven't broken it up.

 

[cavx]

Today I had another go mixing that Cabosol into Silicone. This time I made sure to really mix it in and then add the kicker. It seems to be working perfectly with good adhesion to the previously poured silicone part, is not slumping and looks like it will do the job well.