Glueing and painting polypropylene and similar slippery plastics.

CosmicQuest

Active Member
Greetings friends! I have a few greeblies that I want to use on my alien satellite build but they're made from polypropylene or something similar. I am having issues with adhesion using superglue. I have attempted to scuff it before glueing but it still peels away from the other surface fairly easily. Do any of you have any tried and true tricks for glue and paint adhesion for surfaces like this, or should I just pick different greeblies? Thanks a bunch!!
 
I've used it before and it does work if you follow the instructions. I've also tried it on a large section of polypropylene to see if would work as a base for paints. It can take a sanding and not flake off. When I get back to my X-Wing, I'm going to cover the entire fuselage with that stuff and quickly brush on superglue.

TazMan2000
 
I second the Techbond, great stuff. You could also try JB Weld, plastic bonder. It works great on most plastics, just tskes a while to set up.

J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml Amazon.com
 
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I've used it before and it does work if you follow the instructions. I've also tried it on a large section of polypropylene to see if would work as a base for paints. It can take a sanding and not flake off. When I get back to my X-Wing, I'm going to cover the entire fuselage with that stuff and quickly brush on superglue.

TazMan2000
Thank you tazman.
 
For info, Loctite 770 primer is the same as the stuff in the "All plastics" felt pen primer, but as a bottle with ten grams of liquid rather than a bit absorbed in fibre.

You can get it from industrial suppliers - but be very careful using it, the stuff is highly toxic no matter what form it is in. It works on polypropylene, polyethylene and even PTFE. Plus various rubbers & synthetics that cyanoacrylate does not usually work with.
 
For info, Loctite 770 primer is the same as the stuff in the "All plastics" felt pen primer, but as a bottle with ten grams of liquid rather than a bit absorbed in fibre.

You can get it from industrial suppliers - but be very careful using it, the stuff is highly toxic no matter what form it is in. It works on polypropylene, polyethylene and even PTFE. Plus various rubbers & synthetics that cyanoacrylate does not usually work with.
Good info. Thank you!
 
You can also look at something called adhesion promoter in car body shops. You want one that works with polyolefin plastics. It basically works like a primer specifically for this purpose and the spray can stuff is perfect if you want to paint a large crap plastic toy. The other trick for PP and PE plastics that bike modders use is flame treating the plastic and then it's good for a couple of hours to take primer/paint and glue. I was looking into this years ago for the same X-Wing toy TazMan2000 mentions.

Here is an example https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065456/
flame treatment
 
I used Hycote Adhesion Aid spray (Car paint) to coat a Hasbro Hero Falcon, tested it with primer, paint & super-glue before & after using adhesion aid,....it worked 100%,....the non-stick issues became a thing of the past after using this product

Also perfect for prepping resin kits, it gets over any release agents still on the surface of the model

J
 
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I used Hycote Adhesion Aid spray (Car paint) to coat a Hasbro Hero Falcon, tested it with primer, paint & super-glue before & after using adhesion aid,....it worked 100%,....the non-stick issues became a thing of the past after using this product

Also perfect for prepping resin kits, it gets over any release agents still on the surface of the model

J

I'm not certain you can get the Hycote stuff in North America, but I've heard that Dupli-color Adhesion Promoter works, which is probably close to their recipe. I haven't tried it myself.

TazMan2000
 
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You can also look at something called adhesion promoter in car body shops. You want one that works with polyolefin plastics. It basically works like a primer specifically for this purpose and the spray can stuff is perfect if you want to paint a large crap plastic toy. The other trick for PP and PE plastics that bike modders use is flame treating the plastic and then it's good for a couple of hours to take primer/paint and glue. I was looking into this years ago for the same X-Wing toy TazMan2000 mentions.

Here is an example https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065456/
flame treatment
Great information! Thank you basementdweller!
 
I have used Bulldog adhesion promoter before repainting several plastic toys to great result. I don't know if I have used it on polypropylene specifically, but it is for polyolefin plastics so it should work. I got it from a Sherwin-Williams automotive paint shop many years ago. I used adhesion promoter, then primer, then paint.
Be sure to get an appropriate respirator. In my experience even full outdoors ventilation was not sufficient.
 
Polyethylene and polypropylene are so resistant to adhesion that they can be used as the containers for the adhesives.

If adhesion is a problem, try anchoring the joint using some type of fastener. If both sides of a joint are connected to a part that can join the two areas, the whole assembly will hold together.

You can add screws, pop rivets, tabs or anything that can be glued or fastened together.

At that point, you could use some type of epoxy or other adhesive to connect the parts.
 
There are two glues that work well for bonding polypropylene. Both are made by Loctite:

  • Loctite Super Glue 681925: This is a popular choice for bonding polypropylene plastics. It is a two-part cyanoacrylate adhesive that sets in seconds and develops tremendous strength with just one drop. The activator primes hard-to-bond surfaces such as polypropylene and polyethylene. It dries clear and sets without clamping.
  • Loctite Plastics Bonding System: This is a two-part cyanoacrylate adhesive that sets in seconds and develops tremendous strength with just one drop. The activator primes hard-to-bond surfaces such as polypropylene and polyethylene. It dries clear and sets without clamping.
It doesn't hurt to rough up the connecting surfaces somewhat with coarse sandpaper or a wire brush.


E
 

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