PhantomForge

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hello all!

My goal in this thread is to recreate the pumpkin bomb from 2002's Spider-Man, and with some tweaks the prop from No Way Home as well, that actually lights up, flashes, and makes sound.

Obtaining an accurate Green Goblin Pumpkin Bomb replica that actually lights up has been a like-long ambition, and while I got close to that when I purchased a casting that was supposedly recast from a stunt prop (used to set dressing in spider-man 2 and 3) it was still several steps away from what I was actually after. (Mine on left, screen used one on right)

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While the measurements are slightly shrunk from the original prop— 7.75 cm diameter vs 8 cm (I think, I could use some confirmation from anyone who knows) I'm using this as reference for a 3D model that I will then scale up to the proper size, and resin 3D print in six segments —
4 sets of 4 petals all attached to each other, the top, and the bottom.

Something I may need advice on is the best way to go about the electronics/lights/sound. I have pretty much zero experience in that beyond researching lightsaber tech. Part of me wants to use a similarly complicated setup as a proffie-lightsaber to add extra effects, maybe the goblin theme— I don't know, I'm tired and don't know what I'm doing with that part of it yet, and I can't really afford to experiment at the moment.

Here is my work on it so far (which I will have to redo for obvious reasons when you compare side by side) that I got out this evening/night
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I realized, as I was getting ready to put the LED holes in, that the petals were too short. I mis-measured something fairly early on, and I didn't notice until I was pretty much done with the model. I'm not sure if any of it is really salvageable, but I'll try again tomorrow since it is now 4 AM and I need to sleep. Modeling it this time should be a breeze now that some trial and error problems and techniques have been solved.

Time flies when you're 3D modeling.

Thanks for stopping by this thread!
 
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Here's today's work:

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Decided to find the radius by measuring the circumference rather than using calipers, and got a slight difference of 7.67, which I think was enough to throw a few things off. Remeasured everything, remodeled everything, and I think this looks MUCH better in ratio.

Thermal detonator builders probably have the knowledge needed for FX

You make be able to hack a plector lane thermo electrics kit to play the goblin sounds
I've been looking into those for inspiration/to see if I can mod one! I still wouldn't even know where to start with hacking the tech, so I'm at the same level of experience for modifying those as I am for starting from scratch lol.

I think I'll look into how people making the thermal detonators started out/what materials they use and go from there.


Something else that's throwing me a curve-ball is what the bottom of the original prop in 2003 looked like. I've been scouring behind the scenes stuff, because from the balcony scene, with the physical prop and the FX shot, it looks like the bottom doesn't even have that black ring!
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The bottom looks pretty smooth, but maybe they just didn't paint the bottom ring black? I'm gonna do some digging.
 
Alright, so I think I'm pretty much done modeling. I have some issues to fix with the meshes (the knurling really threw the mesh through a loop) and I'll be adding some holes for screws/bolts later, but I'm pretty happy with how it looks.

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This is the LED positioning of the original model and no way home, BUT I'll be printing the 2002 version with the following LED layout, as seen in every physical prop used in the film and the stunt props.
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I'm keeping the bottom ring on for now, and will just assume that it was painted copper unless I learn otherwise from new footage/models/information.

I bought a dental vacuum forming machine for the inner globe and top button/light, and I'm currently brainstorming some ideas to make the inside of the pumpkin easily accessible for electronic maintenance/battery changing. I'm thinking about making a chassis that will fit under the plastic globe, and that can be opened by unscrewing the actual screws/bolts on half the petals.
No idea if that will work well, and there may be easier ways, but just something I'm running through my head. Having to reach the batteries/electronics from either the top or bottom hole would be a bit of a pain.

Currently researching soundboards and lights to program my own for this this, might have to create my own beeping sound that matches closest to the one in 1 and NWH, as the noise in 3 is different (from what I could tell.)
Might make a Spider-Man 3 version as well, but that requires a bit more remodeling (rings on top and bottom are extruded more, different knurling) but I do love the green ribbing between the cracks of the petals.

Now for some rest, I need to stop working on this through the night. :sleep:
 
And I think I'm finally done modeling! Fixed all the mesh issues, added some screw holes (which are subject to change if the screws I bought either don't fit or don't match the movie), it's been scaled to 8 cm diameter, and I 3d modeled the blanks I'll be printing to be vacuum formed as the button and the inner globe (which will be cut in half and scaled down to be more vacuum-form-friendly.)

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I'll be coding my own soundboard/light system as soon as I scrape together enough extra cash, but besides printing, next comes the inner chassis.

EDIT: It looks like I put the screw holes too far down, although I might think otherwise once I actually have the screw in the hole... I'll do a test print with ONE set of petals and see how I feel. Should be getting the screws tomorrow.
 
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Test printed one of the petals, and the threading worked! But looks like I was right, the screw should be a millimeter or two up. Otherwise, I think the size of the M2 screw seems to be a pretty good match (I know it needs to be an allen screw) and it's looking pretty good compared to the screen shot (not the MOST accurate angle, but otherwise it lines up nicely).
Would love thoughts on the screw size though, I'm feeling good about it but might have to go smaller?

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Also, the mini vacuum forming machine arrived! Should fit the blanks for the inner globe perfectly.
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That looks great! Are you going to sell the kits or the 3D model? Sorry if that was addressed in the thread somewhere. I skimmed the thread but wanted to chime in so I can get updates on your progress.
 
That looks great! Are you going to sell the kits or the 3D model? Sorry if that was addressed in the thread somewhere. I skimmed the thread but wanted to chime in so I can get updates on your progress.
I won't be selling the 3D model— I thought about it, but after seeing someone sell dod3's goblin helmet in the rpf facebook group freely, I became fairly disheartened and realized that would probably happen with this too— BUT I am looking into how much work it would be to make kits/assembled bombs, but that's a discussion for another time and place (like an Interest thread.)
 
I won't be selling the 3D model— I thought about it, but after seeing someone sell dod3's goblin helmet in the rpf facebook group freely, I became fairly disheartened and realized that would probably happen with this too— BUT I am looking into how much work it would be to make kits/assembled bombs, but that's a discussion for another time and place (like an Interest thread.)
That's totally understandable. Honestly, I'm amazed that I don't stumble upon more pirated 3D models. I don't go looking for them, so maybe they are there and I just don't visit the sites that have them.

Will you be printing this yourself? Let me know if you do kits. I just ran a batch of Slimer statues from a sculpt that Steve Johnson did. I 3D scanned with an Einscan Pro HD scanner and then printed them on one of the EPAX X-156 printers I have. I have a couple of FDM printers, but you can't beat the quality of resin prints when it comes to fine detail!
 
That's totally understandable. Honestly, I'm amazed that I don't stumble upon more pirated 3D models. I don't go looking for them, so maybe they are there and I just don't visit the sites that have them.

Will you be printing this yourself? Let me know if you do kits. I just ran a batch of Slimer statues from a sculpt that Steve Johnson did. I 3D scanned with an Einscan Pro HD scanner and then printed them on one of the EPAX X-156 printers I have. I have a couple of FDM printers, but you can't beat the quality of resin prints when it comes to fine detail!
Yes, I have a resin 3D printer and an FDM (which I will be using to make vacuum blanks and inner chasis), but my Mars is acting a bit testy. Having difficulty printing the top and bottom at the moment (two failed prints so far) so if it continues to be a pain like that, I'll be ordering from an online printing service.
 
Yes, I have a resin 3D printer and an FDM (which I will be using to make vacuum blanks and inner chasis), but my Mars is acting a bit testy. Having difficulty printing the top and bottom at the moment (two failed prints so far) so if it continues to be a pain like that, I'll be ordering from an online printing service.
Elegoo are good printers. I started with Mars, then Saturn and finallly Epax. I just printed some replica Mars Perseverance Supercam parts for Los Alamos National Lab for a museum. I still use the Saturn for some things, but I'm looking to rehome the Mars printer. I love the Epax, as the build volume is massive.
 
Elegoo are good printers. I started with Mars, then Saturn and finallly Epax. I just printed some replica Mars Perseverance Supercam parts for Los Alamos National Lab for a museum. I still use the Saturn for some things, but I'm looking to rehome the Mars printer. I love the Epax, as the build volume is massive.
It's an ambition of mine to buy one of those large printers one day, it would allow me to print all the parts of this in one go.
But alas...
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I think I fixed the hole-placement— The original screws were slightly off center, so its not going to line up in the middle like this, but it looks pretty good in terms of length from the top. Looks great with the 2021 bomb.
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Little side-by-side— hard to get the angle right (and the focal length in blender is WEIRD) but I think it looks pretty good!
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Printed the top and bottom disks, 1/4 of the petals (each section takes about 7 hours to print) and the blank for the inner globe.

Since I wanted the parts to fit perfectly to the globe, I made it a negative blank, and while I was going to wait to see how well it worked before sanding the inside down to a smooth finish, I think the print was smooth enough already that any spots that'll actually show look pretty good.

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The holes/bumps you see were strategically placed so that it will be covered by the external pieces. I used REALLY thin styrene for this, I'll be using thicker styrene or PETG for the final product, but this was good for testing it.
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And the top/bottom look pretty good on it! Next time I check in, it will be with an assembled (but unpainted/no electronics) prototype.
 

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