Green Goblin Pumpkin Bomb Build (2002, 2021)

[PhantomForge]

Sorry for the lack of updates, this has been slow going now that I have a full-time job rather than being purely self-employed, and all my free-time has been dedicated to raptor claws, BUT i've been working at this while waiting for claw castings and paint to draw, and during lunch break at work, and so now I have finally assembled all the pieces (sans the vacuum formed parts).
I designed and printed an inner chassis, and while it broke in two due to some print-errors, after some hot-glue action I was still able to assemble the petals onto it.

and here it is next to the original:

The petals aren't perfect, one of the sets broke in two and I don't think I did a great job glueing it back together, so some of the petals sort of stick out farther than they should as a combination of a bad glue-job, and because the water-washable resin sort of warped in the cleaning/curing process. The chassis helped straighten most of them out, but some resisted. It's good enough for a prototype and to test out some painting techniques.

I'll have to save up a bit more funds before I test out some electronic bits, it's not terribly expensive but until I work a few more weeks my wallets not terribly stable.

I'll post an update either once I test some more vacuum forming or after I install some electronics— the later might be a while, so until then!


PS: Does anyone have a for-sure measurement for the original prop? I feel like this might be a bit big, but the circumference is juuuuust over 10 inches, which seems about right??

 

[renaissance_man]

I just rewatched NWH on bluray and it made me wonder how your replica is coming along.

 

[PhantomForge]

I just rewatched NWH on bluray and it made me wonder how your replica is coming along.

Unfortunately it hasn't gotten much farther. I have all the inner components, but I still have to teach myself how to properly wire these electronics/the Arduino sound board and lights. Plus the programing. Its tricky trying to balance this stuff now that I no longer set my own hours

I DID put together a couple sound files based on the two scenes of the beeping countdown we get in 3, plus some extra from-scratch noises based on what we get from both 3 and 1. Still playing around with the foley-work of it all.
Maybe I'll have both versions on the soundboard?
Will be working on a NWH version of it too (it's more of a hum/buzz)

 

[Bob Rosland]

After a Pumpkin Bomb showed up on the Prop Store, I'm trying to tackle this myself. I started with trying to figure out the hardware sizes and going from there. It's a small detail, but I believe the hardware might be M1.6 instead of M2. The size and profile of the head seems to match a little better. A standard 5mm LED was used for size reference. This all jives with your 8cm measurement that you have for the diameter.

 

[PhantomForge]

After a Pumpkin Bomb showed up on the Prop Store, I'm trying to tackle this myself. I started with trying to figure out the hardware sizes and going from there. It's a small detail, but I believe the hardware might be M1.6 instead of M2. The size and profile of the head seems to match a little better. A standard 5mm LED was used for size reference. This all jives with your 8cm measurement that you have for the diameter.

View attachment 1588627

Where was this all when I modeling the first time around?!

Thanks a bunch for posting this here— they are fascinating! Before, the only actual look we got onto the 2002 prop (there was a mislabeled one from 2007) was the stunt casts, which I have and have been taking measurements from. Problem is, the stunt cast doesn't have the right size for the LEDs, and it has no screws, and it's missing details like what the bottom actually looked like!

Like what's great about this is that it looks like the bottom copper disk (where the button is on top) is SEPARATE from the bottom ring, and likely where one could access the batteries/inner electronics. I'm debating if I should leave the bottom smooth now or add those screws. You can also see that the screws were hand drilled, as they're not dead center of each petal. Fascinating stuff.

I was trying to make it so that the screws on the petals were actually functional and you could remove them to access the inside, but now I'm debating adding these screws on the bottom... Like I could, but also I know from the 3D model in certain scenes they aren't supposed to be there in the context of the movie, but adding those bolts would make it more accurate to the prop itself. I'm gonna do it!

Is the model of the screw on the right an M2? I will say, I've learned in recent months that the M measurement doesn't necessarily effect the head measurement (since its the bolt diameter.) For example, the M2s I use have a head diameter of 2.5mm, and there are some M2s in my kit that have 3mm diameters.

I do think the 3mm heads of the M1.6 screws you linked are even a biiiit too wide, but it's hard to say. As you measure a picture of a curved surface it can be tricky to get an accurate measurement of parts further along the curve compared to a measurement on a different part of the surface. Using the knurling width as a closer point of reference (and width of the top of the petal based on the 5mm LED and reaffirmed by the prop I have in hand) I'd say the diameter of the head is close to 2.5 mm (ranging between 2.5-2.75.) So the M size ultimately won't matter too much as long as you get the right head diameter (and make sure you get an allen head, not a torx.)

I look forward to seeing what you make! The more pumpkin bombs the merrier!

 

[PhantomForge]

A quick update where I'm at in my build:
This has been on a bit of a hiatus, as I knew a while ago I needed to scale up the holes from the LED (it's much too small for a 5mm!) I bought some 3mm for this prototype, but I might also just drill the holes to be larger.

"But why don't you just print another with the right hole size?"
Excellent question. Reason number 2 for my hiatus is that my 3D printer needs a new screen, and I haven't had the time to research and replace it. Honestly, if I decide to make more of these in greater quantities, I might just invest in a new/larger printer.

And thanks to the new photos, I also have some minor tweaks to make to the bottom and top plate.
Speaking of which, can anyone identify this odd looking screw/bolt/whatever this is? Looks like some kind of thumb screw??

Reason number 3 for the hiatus, is I had no idea how to wire/program this thing. After installing and re-installing components for a neopixel lightsaber, I'm feeling much more confident in my soldering skills, but I still need to learn the programming part, which I'm hoping to tackle this week.

Meanwhile, this past week I painted the base coat on the actual parts!

Appreciate the stealth paint on these as I wait for some new airbrush replacement parts to come in (everything's breaking!)

 

[signeddiamond]

To me that appears to be a threaded insert. I haven’t seen them with a knurling and flathead design together but it’s not outside the norm to far.

 

[Bob Rosland]

A quick update where I'm at in my build:
This has been on a bit of a hiatus, as I knew a while ago I needed to scale up the holes from the LED (it's much too small for a 5mm!) I bought some 3mm for this prototype, but I might also just drill the holes to be larger.
View attachment 1588670
"But why don't you just print another with the right hole size?"
Excellent question. Reason number 2 for my hiatus is that my 3D printer needs a new screen, and I haven't had the time to research and replace it. Honestly, if I decide to make more of these in greater quantities, I might just invest in a new/larger printer.

And thanks to the new photos, I also have some minor tweaks to make to the bottom and top plate.
Speaking of which, can anyone identify this odd looking screw/bolt/whatever this is? Looks like some kind of thumb screw??
View attachment 1588669

You've got the spacing of the holes from the outside of the ring right on, but they do cut into the black ring a tiny bit.

The auction description mentioned charging ports, so I've been trying to find some that match. I haven't been able to find any that have the slots that go across the entire port.

 

[PhantomForge]

You've got the spacing of the holes from the outside of the ring right on, but they do cut into the black ring a tiny bit.

The auction description mentioned charging ports, so I've been trying to find some that match. I haven't been able to find any that have the slots that go across the entire port.

I noticed! And I'd actually say the spacing for the holes are also a bit off on mine. Needs to be closer to the edge.

So in the description of the auction it describes a charging cord, it unfortunately doesn't mention anything about if one of those are a charging port (though I wish it did.) My best bet is that bottom disk comes off and has a charging port on the inside.

But great minds think alike, that was my first thought too! And I was thinking about juts modeling the parts to look like a threaded insert and then making it into a hidden charging port, but I think for now I'll just keep things simple and have it be under the disk.

 

[TheNickFox]

A quick update where I'm at in my build:
This has been on a bit of a hiatus, as I knew a while ago I needed to scale up the holes from the LED (it's much too small for a 5mm!) I bought some 3mm for this prototype, but I might also just drill the holes to be larger.
View attachment 1588670
"But why don't you just print another with the right hole size?"
Excellent question. Reason number 2 for my hiatus is that my 3D printer needs a new screen, and I haven't had the time to research and replace it. Honestly, if I decide to make more of these in greater quantities, I might just invest in a new/larger printer.

And thanks to the new photos, I also have some minor tweaks to make to the bottom and top plate.
Speaking of which, can anyone identify this odd looking screw/bolt/whatever this is? Looks like some kind of thumb screw??
View attachment 1588669

Reason number 3 for the hiatus, is I had no idea how to wire/program this thing. After installing and re-installing components for a neopixel lightsaber, I'm feeling much more confident in my soldering skills, but I still need to learn the programming part, which I'm hoping to tackle this week.

Meanwhile, this past week I painted the base coat on the actual parts!
View attachment 1588671
Appreciate the stealth paint on these as I wait for some new airbrush replacement parts to come in (everything's breaking!)

Honestly the bottom bolts look like some kind of socket cap bolt head.

 

[PhantomForge]

It's been quite some time, but my contract ended so I'm BACK and with new software.

I couldn't find all my notes on the measurements from last time, so I sort of started from scratch with my calipers and my stunt prop casting—and I've gotta say, Fusion 360 is SO much easier for these kinds of things compared to blender. Besides knurling.

I'm going to print a test that's the size of the stunt prop I have to see how I did (it's smaller than the final due to mold shrinkage.)

I might just make a mold of this to make a bunch to put on a shelf a-la Spider-Man 2+3 if this works out. Or just print a bunch of them if the printing process goes smoothly (I'm worried).

 

[TheNickFox]

It's been quite some time, but my contract ended so I'm BACK and with new software.

I couldn't find all my notes on the measurements from last time, so I sort of started from scratch with my calipers and my stunt prop casting—and I've gotta say, Fusion 360 is SO much easier for these kinds of things compared to blender. Besides knurling.

View attachment 1731648View attachment 1731651View attachment 1731650View attachment 1731652

I'm going to print a test that's the size of the stunt prop I have to see how I did (it's smaller than the final due to mold shrinkage.)

View attachment 1731647View attachment 1731653

I might just make a mold of this to make a bunch to put on a shelf a-la Spider-Man 2+3 if this works out. Or just print a bunch of them if the printing process goes smoothly (I'm worried).

That looks incredible! Great work!

 

[PhantomForge]

Got the print, got some matching prime to what I put on the stunt casting, and I think I finally got a good match.
Gosh I love micro-calipers.

EDIT: Actually, I forget the exact details of this casting... The origins are described by the defunct seller as "I actually bought a cast that was made for the production many years ago. This is a copy of that cast. I was told the prop I bought was made for the film but not painted nor used for it ultimately." "the film" being Spider-Man 3, as these were used to set dress the goblin lair in 2+3, which I thought was also the stunt props from 1, but I am ultimately not sure.
And in a follow up email
"They were technically copies of a pumpkin bomb that was made for production but never used in the filming."

 

[TheNickFox]

Got the print, got some matching prime to what I put on the stunt casting, and I think I finally got a good match.
Gosh I love micro-calipers.

EDIT: Actually, I forget the exact details of this casting... The origins are described by the defunt seller as "I actually bought a cast that was made for the production many years ago. This is a copy of that cast. I was told the prop I bought was made for the film but not painted nor used for it ultimately." "the film" being Spider-Man 3, as these were used to set dress the goblin lair in 2+3, which I thought was also the stunt props from 1, but I am ultimately not sure.
And in a follow up email
"They were technically copies of a pumpkin bomb that was made for production but never used in the filming."

View attachment 1732881View attachment 1732880View attachment 1732882View attachment 1732883View attachment 1732886

I’m so jealous. That’s seriously a dream item for me and you’ve got two amazing examples of it.

Great work.

 

[The Sweatshop]

I feel like the 8 nubs sticking out are a hair too proud, maybe a millimeter or two. Especially in this shot, I think a double check measurement from the base to where the dome starts would maybe alleviate it, or it's just my eyes.

 

[PhantomForge]

I feel like the 8 nubs sticking out are a hair too proud, maybe a millimeter or two. Especially in this shot, I think a double check measurement from the base to where the dome starts would maybe alleviate it, or it's just my eyes.
View attachment 1733240

The eight nubs are actually all different sizes on the cast prop. Some of them are taller than mine, some shorter, I went with an average.

(Excuse the lens flares)

 

[PhantomForge]

Using the scale in this photo from the ruler, it looks like the diameter is about 3.26 inches/82.8 mm (circumference of about 10.25 inches/260.35 mm) so I'll need to scale the model up by about 6.24% to get the right diameter for the original prop it was molded from.

 

[PhantomForge]

Paint update:

I spent all day running around looking for a good candy orange at local hobby shops (finally found one) but when I got home and dug up my airbrush kit, I realized I already bought one a year ago for this exact project.

Anyways, here's the result from what I bought, it's a bit sloppy but I learned some stuff and this is more of a color test than anything else:

And now I'm just trying to figure out the best way to paint the white in the gaps.
First I tried using a paint marker that was much too thick (I'm going back for a thinner one tomorrow or the next day) and then I tried taping and cutting the pattern, which was WAY too tedious and didn't really work well anyways.

The real answer is that the base color is white, and the props were hand painted with a metallic orange BUT that doesn't look good enough for me so I'm going to try and paint it a bit closer to the hero prop. It's one thing to paint something that's going to be in the background of the movie, it's another to paint something you want to look at on your shelf.

I'll test the other candy orange paint on my bigger 2nd print (which is feels a bit too big, but maybe I'm just used to the shrunken version of the prop.) I'll post updated/comparison photos when I can.

 

[PhantomForge]

Re-sized to what I believe is the original diameter of the prop (roughly 81.5 mm? The original diameter has always eluded me.) though the original just feels so much better in my hand (but again, I'm used to the other prop). I'll be testing the paint on this and then double checking some numbers before moving forward.

 

[renaissance_man]

I'd paint it all white first then mask the gaps and do the orange metallic colour last.