Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle: FINISHED! See p.5
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aron42486
Well-Known Member
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
I'll second that, looks amazing. Next you need to build a full scale Normandy...
I'll second that, looks amazing. Next you need to build a full scale Normandy...
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
thumbsup
Also, if you don't mind, what brand/color of paint is ^THAT^? It looks amazing.
As with all your other builds here so far, my mind is blown.
thumbsupAlso, if you don't mind, what brand/color of paint is ^THAT^? It looks amazing.
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
A (not full scale) Normandy is... in the works. I'd rather not talk about it too much until its more than just a pile of blueprints and styrene, but I'm sure I'll be firing up a thread on it in the next few months.
THAT is a solid pain, actually. Its three different layers of paint, but its the best way I've been able to replicate gunmetal accurately without buying some specialty paint.
The first coat is actually an ACE hardware store brand silver that comes out like brushed chrome. I actually lucked out, and there were 4 cans of this stuff at my office that were being thrown out last week, so I snagged them. More free supplies! Normally I don't like to use anything but Krylon paints, since the humidity here in GA can play hell with some spraypaints and Krylon is the only stuff I've found that doesn't get borked when its really humid outside... Can't argue with free, though.
This is a crummy iPhone shot, but you get the idea:
After that, I mist the layer with Rustoleum hammered dark silver. to do this, you have to hold the can about 2 feet away from what you're spraying so the paint hits the surface in small clumps. This tones the chrome down. Getting this part even is a solid nightmare, but luckily the M8 is pretty decently weathered.
After this coat is on, but before it dries (within 15 minutes) clearcoat the entire piece in Satin. I like to use Krylon. I did this same process for the "metal" pieces on the AER9.
The final finish on the M8 won't be as dirty, but you get the idea.
I'm going to have to make another purchase... plasti-dip. In doing research, this seems like the best way to get the rubbery effect with the least chance of it chipping, scratching, or cracking. Hopefully I can try out some tests tonight.
This will bring my total up to around $16. I had to buy another can of primer and those little hex screws too. Damn!
A (not full scale) Normandy is... in the works. I'd rather not talk about it too much until its more than just a pile of blueprints and styrene, but I'm sure I'll be firing up a thread on it in the next few months.
THAT is a solid pain, actually. Its three different layers of paint, but its the best way I've been able to replicate gunmetal accurately without buying some specialty paint.
The first coat is actually an ACE hardware store brand silver that comes out like brushed chrome. I actually lucked out, and there were 4 cans of this stuff at my office that were being thrown out last week, so I snagged them. More free supplies! Normally I don't like to use anything but Krylon paints, since the humidity here in GA can play hell with some spraypaints and Krylon is the only stuff I've found that doesn't get borked when its really humid outside... Can't argue with free, though.
This is a crummy iPhone shot, but you get the idea:
After that, I mist the layer with Rustoleum hammered dark silver. to do this, you have to hold the can about 2 feet away from what you're spraying so the paint hits the surface in small clumps. This tones the chrome down. Getting this part even is a solid nightmare, but luckily the M8 is pretty decently weathered.
After this coat is on, but before it dries (within 15 minutes) clearcoat the entire piece in Satin. I like to use Krylon. I did this same process for the "metal" pieces on the AER9.
The final finish on the M8 won't be as dirty, but you get the idea.
I'm going to have to make another purchase... plasti-dip. In doing research, this seems like the best way to get the rubbery effect with the least chance of it chipping, scratching, or cracking. Hopefully I can try out some tests tonight.
This will bring my total up to around $16. I had to buy another can of primer and those little hex screws too. Damn!
Last edited:
Grey
Sr Member
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
You know, I actaully prefer the way it looked without the holes for the hex screws. That just seems like such an...archaic way of holding something together in THE FUTURE! The gun is too futuristic looking to try and mix in realistic design elements with IMO.
Although that may just be because, with the current paint scheme the holes make it look like a fisher price toy. :lol I'll save my opinion untill it's done, not that it matters.
You know, I actaully prefer the way it looked without the holes for the hex screws. That just seems like such an...archaic way of holding something together in THE FUTURE! The gun is too futuristic looking to try and mix in realistic design elements with IMO.
Although that may just be because, with the current paint scheme the holes make it look like a fisher price toy. :lol I'll save my opinion untill it's done, not that it matters.
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
$16?! I'm not paying a cent over $15, but who am I to judge?
Man I just wish I can do something like that some day, or be rich enough to commission you to do something for me! :thumbsup :thumbsup
$16?! I'm not paying a cent over $15, but who am I to judge?
Man I just wish I can do something like that some day, or be rich enough to commission you to do something for me! :thumbsup :thumbsup
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
dammit Spike! Now that you've said that I can't help seeing it!
I think it will look better once the screws are in the gun. They'll be fairly flush with the surface though, so hopefully that will eliminate the "nerf" look. The actual in-game model does have screw holes in it as well.
Spoiler for GIANT image.
Usually just Gorilla Glue brand Super Glue, though sometimes I use lacquer thinner if I'm laminating two sheets together
dammit Spike! Now that you've said that I can't help seeing it!
I think it will look better once the screws are in the gun. They'll be fairly flush with the surface though, so hopefully that will eliminate the "nerf" look. The actual in-game model does have screw holes in it as well.
Spoiler for GIANT image.
Usually just Gorilla Glue brand Super Glue, though sometimes I use lacquer thinner if I'm laminating two sheets together
MML
Well-Known Member
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
Whoa, the M8 is looking amazing. Incredible work so far.
Is that the laser rifle from Fallout 3? Just started playing it recently, great game.
And a Normandy - I can't wait to hear more on that - please tell us it's going to be a kit!
A (not full scale) Normandy is... in the works. I'd rather not talk about it too much until its more than just a pile of blueprints and styrene, but I'm sure I'll be firing up a thread on it in the next few months.
THAT is a solid pain, actually. Its three different layers of paint, but its the best way I've been able to replicate gunmetal accurately without buying some specialty paint.
The first coat is actually an ACE hardware store brand silver that comes out like brushed chrome. I actually lucked out, and there were 4 cans of this stuff at my office that were being thrown out last week, so I snagged them. More free supplies! Normally I don't like to use anything but Krylon paints, since the humidity here in GA can play hell with some spraypaints and Krylon is the only stuff I've found that doesn't get borked when its really humid outside... Can't argue with free, though.
This is a crummy iPhone shot, but you get the idea:
After that, I mist the layer with Rustoleum hammered dark silver. to do this, you have to hold the can about 2 feet away from what you're spraying so the paint hits the surface in small clumps. This tones the chrome down. Getting this part even is a solid nightmare, but luckily the M8 is pretty decently weathered.
After this coat is on, but before it dries (within 15 minutes) clearcoat the entire piece in Satin. I like to use Krylon. I did this same process for the "metal" pieces on the AER9.
The final finish on the M8 won't be as dirty, but you get the idea.
I'm going to have to make another purchase... plasti-dip. In doing research, this seems like the best way to get the rubbery effect with the least chance of it chipping, scratching, or cracking. Hopefully I can try out some tests tonight.
This will bring my total up to around $16. I had to buy another can of primer and those little hex screws too. Damn!
Whoa, the M8 is looking amazing. Incredible work so far.
Is that the laser rifle from Fallout 3? Just started playing it recently, great game.
And a Normandy - I can't wait to hear more on that - please tell us it's going to be a kit!
smick6
Well-Known Member
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
Man the weathering on that AER9 is incredible. Its a fine line between not enough and just the right amount of weathering and you my friend are walking that line. nay secrets you want to share would be appreciated.
The M8 looks great to.
Man the weathering on that AER9 is incredible. Its a fine line between not enough and just the right amount of weathering and you my friend are walking that line. nay secrets you want to share would be appreciated.
The M8 looks great to.
trekkieb47
Well-Known Member
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
This is insane, as a huge Mass Effect fan I am blown away by this. If this was ever molded, I'd sell a kidney to get one.
This is insane, as a huge Mass Effect fan I am blown away by this. If this was ever molded, I'd sell a kidney to get one.
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
Thanks for the compliments! I'll actually be recording the entire weathering process and putting together a little recap video for people interested. I think it might help a lot for weathering questions. Really, i just hack away with a bunch of acrylic paints in my airbrush and some crappy wal-mart brushes, but it all works out in the end!
Molds, molds, molds - everybody wants kits! After this weekend, I sort of discovered how hard it will be to mold this piece... but more on that in a bit.
Ready for a crap ton of pics? I hope so.
After the basecoat dried, I took some other parts and sprayed them with satin black. This included the scope, which was also treated to a tinted piece of PET plastic for the lens and the rubber mat material for the grip.
The front lower grip, upper receiver, rear stock and grip were all painted using Plasti-Dip spray. This stuff IS FINICKY about what surface you spray it onto, and can wrinkle badly if you prep incorrectly. I only had this happen to one small piece, but it can still be annoying.
Other pieces got some further detail. The lower barrel shroud was masked off so the raised pieces could be painted flat black to stand out against the satin underneath.
A mock up with all the painted parts (minus barrels and trigger)
After that, onto electronics! I pirated an on/off switch from a dead RC car and shaved the switch panel down.
This was put in the scope, alongside the LED lights at the top. I'm all out of shrink wrap, but budget being what it is, I used hot glue as electrical insulation. Works great!
Then, final assembly! Not many process pics of that because its mostly just screwing and gluing stuff together (I prefer JB Weld) but here's the final result:
Muzzle flash lights come on when you pull the trigger, independent of the switch. Switch on the scope powers the red LEDs in the scope and middle of the gun. Everything runs off of 2 AAA batteries and works flawlessly, especially for spare parts!
I should get my masks for the lettering in this week, then I can start on weathering after those are painted on.
As for molding... there are a LOT of open-ish seams on this gun. I would need to find a good way to plug all of these with a removable material that wouldn't damage the finish, and would be easy to clean up later. I'd imagine that the final piece would be a one-piece hollow cast. I didn't really design the gun to be molded, so trying to go back and do it after the fact might be more trouble than its worth...
Then again, I REALLY want a red one, too. My own greed might drive this. We'll see.
Thanks for the compliments! I'll actually be recording the entire weathering process and putting together a little recap video for people interested. I think it might help a lot for weathering questions. Really, i just hack away with a bunch of acrylic paints in my airbrush and some crappy wal-mart brushes, but it all works out in the end!
OOh gods, i hope the idea for being able to mold this comes to fruition as i know just the thing to get my partner for his birthday!
Molds, molds, molds - everybody wants kits! After this weekend, I sort of discovered how hard it will be to mold this piece... but more on that in a bit.
Ready for a crap ton of pics? I hope so.
After the basecoat dried, I took some other parts and sprayed them with satin black. This included the scope, which was also treated to a tinted piece of PET plastic for the lens and the rubber mat material for the grip.
The front lower grip, upper receiver, rear stock and grip were all painted using Plasti-Dip spray. This stuff IS FINICKY about what surface you spray it onto, and can wrinkle badly if you prep incorrectly. I only had this happen to one small piece, but it can still be annoying.
Other pieces got some further detail. The lower barrel shroud was masked off so the raised pieces could be painted flat black to stand out against the satin underneath.
A mock up with all the painted parts (minus barrels and trigger)
After that, onto electronics! I pirated an on/off switch from a dead RC car and shaved the switch panel down.
This was put in the scope, alongside the LED lights at the top. I'm all out of shrink wrap, but budget being what it is, I used hot glue as electrical insulation. Works great!
Then, final assembly! Not many process pics of that because its mostly just screwing and gluing stuff together (I prefer JB Weld) but here's the final result:
Muzzle flash lights come on when you pull the trigger, independent of the switch. Switch on the scope powers the red LEDs in the scope and middle of the gun. Everything runs off of 2 AAA batteries and works flawlessly, especially for spare parts!
I should get my masks for the lettering in this week, then I can start on weathering after those are painted on.
As for molding... there are a LOT of open-ish seams on this gun. I would need to find a good way to plug all of these with a removable material that wouldn't damage the finish, and would be easy to clean up later. I'd imagine that the final piece would be a one-piece hollow cast. I didn't really design the gun to be molded, so trying to go back and do it after the fact might be more trouble than its worth...
Then again, I REALLY want a red one, too. My own greed might drive this. We'll see.
Sakara
Well-Known Member
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
listen to that greed...it knows what its doing! ;Dlol
listen to that greed...it knows what its doing! ;D
lol
Re: Mass Effect 2 - M8 Assault Rifle
Wow! I'd have guessed you snuck up and pistol whipped Shepard to get that! :lol
Wow! I'd have guessed you snuck up and pistol whipped Shepard to get that! :lol
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