Razor Crest

[Madhatter]

Also, of note regarding the Photon S (or Upgraded Photon), depending on what firmware version, you may or may not be able to use files with the .Photon extension straight from Chitubox. The latest firmware update for them supports both .photon and .pws (the new Anycubic "proprietary" format), but some of the older one can only read .PWS format, and Chitubox can only slice as a .PHOTON.

However, if you prefer Chitubox over the Anycubic Photon Workshop software (which is essentially a skin of Chitbubox with a few streamlined options added) all you have to do is use Save As... to save your supported file in Chitbox as an .stl file, open that .stl file in Photon Workshop, and just hit the slice button to slice as a PWS file

Although the latest version of Photon Workshop is actually pretty good in it's own right, especially for beginners, and you may not even find the need to use Chitubox unless you want a bit more manual control. There are also some features of it that I think are better than Chitubox and sometimes I find myself doing things in both.

Yeah funny you should mention the Chitubox as I was watching a video of a guy saying he uses Chitubox to add the supports and then exports it back to Photon Workshop for the final print - his explanation being Chitubox is just better for that purpose than Photon.

 

[Analyzer]

ohhhh thats another thing if its coming off your bed.... Scuff up your bed, I used some 80 grit glass paper to give it a good scuffing, and its worked really well, even now my fep is getting a bit old, the bed usually wins... But i think 10 really is too low, i would never dare go bellow 12 but even 13 ive had failures on... 15 seemed like the best good round number, also 80 on base layers... I usually use elegoo abs like resin. Mostly because i cant get siraya in the uk...

That explains it. I have seen a spreadsheet that had common exposure times for different resins, and when using Elegoo or Siraya ABS you definitely need to up the exposure time

The Anycubic stuff from what I understand is less viscous so theoretically, lower exposure times. Still, I will try out increased times on my next print to see if it helps

I am reluctant to sand the build plate at this point. The one I have is the exposed aluminum instead of the anodized surface so it is kind of rough already. But as you said, if it helps extend the amount of times I get out of the FEP it might be useful

 

[MangyDog]

Ahhh I had the anodised.... So yeah you're exposed one should be better.

 

[Analyzer]

Ahhh I had the anodised.... So yeah you're exposed one should be better.

I upped the exposure to 10 seconds and without changing any support setting that seems to have fixed one of the problem areas where it was splitting. After doing so the other side turned out prefect. Thanks for the advice!

I have to reprint the one turbine section that split still, but for now this is where I am at...

 

[edge10]

Looks very nice. Good luck with those seams.

 

[Analyzer]

Looks very nice. Good luck with those seams.

Yeah, that is going to take some work

Although some of them are wider than they will be once glued since gravity pulls them apart a bit and they are loosely fitted

 

[kermet]

Me wants one!!!! You are doing some super model work, is your print clean of do you have some prep ahead, you thinking of casting I'm in line if this happens. Love this ship thanks for sharing.

 

[korben44]

Looking great so far!

 

[Analyzer]

Me wants one!!!! You are doing some super model work, is your print clean of do you have some prep ahead, you thinking of casting I'm in line if this happens. Love this ship thanks for sharing.

The print is great quality in that I do not have to sand smooth parts since the layer lines are virtually non-existent. Due to the limit of my build plate size I had to use the stl files that were split in smaller parts rather than the ones that could print the body in whole sections instead of divided in half lengthwise. That also limited how I could rotate parts for supporting which in affected how some parts print and ultimately fit together

I would love to see someone work out a deal with the creators and get this out as a kit

I wish I could indulge you, but I can't make casts of it since I did not create the 3D model

I bought the stl files for the model here...

Razor Crest 3D Printing Model | Assembly

Discover high-poly STL files of Razor Crest 3D printing model. 3D print your favourite characters with Gambody STL files.

www.gambody.com

There are print services that could print it out if anyone does not have a printer and they probably would do a much better/cleaner job than I have

Of course considering the prices of the Anycubic Photon now, you could probably divert that cost into a buying a printer

 

[jaffro13]

Well, I was a bit apprehensive about buying this at that price and settled for their Tie Interceptor instead, when it was on sale. Now that I've seen how this prints I think I'm going to have to buy it. Nice work indeed.

 

[Analyzer]

Well, I was a bit apprehensive about buying this at that price and settled for their Tie Interceptor instead, when it was on sale. Now that I've seen how this prints I think I'm going to have to buy it. Nice work indeed.

The way I figure is that it is like buying a garage resin kit, the difference of course being you print it out yourself

With the price of the model, plus the resin used, that gives me a 1/72* scale "garage resin kit" for my display for less than $100

Also, since this was the first model I bought from them, I got a 10% discount

They have a deal where 1rst item is 10% off, 2nd is 30% and 3rd is 50%

*(close enough at 1/68 technically )

 

[kermet]

I really like what you are doing, very good work. I was Lucky to get on board for the vintage collection Has Lab Razor Crest can't wait to get it in my hands, it was pricey but a very cool ship, and very happy to score it. I will still however be haunting this page process, I always love building. Check out my girl robot thread you will like. Thanks

 

[Analyzer]

I really like what you are doing, very good work. I was Lucky to get on board for the vintage collection Has Lab Razor Crest can't wait to get it in my hands, it was pricey but a very cool ship, and very happy to score it. I will still however be haunting this page process, I always love building. Check out my girl robot thread you will like. Thanks

That Hasbro one does look amazing

 

[kermet]

Yes I agree 100%, it has so much detail, I had like 5 huge Star Wars collections and sold off, so I really like the Mandalorian and been watch if they was going to release it and stumbled across Taz's page and I went on a hunt and got lucky and got on board. Yep I like this ship as well as the Ghost, glad to get one. I think what you got going is amazing as well I like you skills and Talent this is what RPF is love it. Thanks

 

[jaffro13]

Just curious, do you think your used files would scale down to 144 ? Just my prefered scale for ships like Falcon, Slave 1...

Yes, it does scale down to 144 but there's some small parts I didn't bother trying to print, like hydraulic pistons for the doors, other than that it came out fine.

 

[Jimw100]

I upped the exposure to 10 seconds and without changing any support setting that seems to have fixed one of the problem areas where it was splitting. After doing so the other side turned out prefect. Thanks for the advice!

I have to reprint the one turbine section that split still, but for now this is where I am at...

Looking really good. Have you got a plan for how to paint it? I'm wondering whether to use something like graphite powder for mine, as I don't have an airbrush and it seems like all the good metallic paints need to be airbrushed.

 

[Analyzer]

Looking really good. Have you got a plan for how to paint it? I'm wondering whether to use something like graphite powder for mine, as I don't have an airbrush and it seems like all the good metallic paints need to be airbrushed.

Not at all, There are good metallics in rattle cans. In fact, most of my metallics come from rattle cans...

Tamiya makes some spray paints that are really good. I have used these two
Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum
Tamiya Gun Metal
Th darker areas here are the Gun Metal and the lighter ones are the Gloss Aluminum
I also added some oil paint washes and pastels which dulled it down a little

This one is the Gloss Aluminum

IMG_5796

Also Spaztix Chrome is an amazing spray paint for a very convincing metal finish

the engine bells on here are Spaztik Chrome
It works best over a black surface, and the more gloss the surface, the more mirror like your finish will be
Personally I love how it looks over a matte black. Just shiny enough to be reflective like metal, but not overdone mirror like chrome which can look out of place on smaller scale models
And surprisingly it is pretty durable. You can mask over it without issue (at least with Tamiya Masking tape)

Space 1999 Hawk Mk IX

And the front of the Naboo star fighter is with Spaztik Chrome

N1 Starfighter 02

I am thinking of using Tamiya Gloss Aluminum to start and maybe an overspray in parts of Spaztik Chrome

 

[skahtul]

Looking forward to what you come up with. I have had good luck with Rust-Oleum Metallic Finish Chrome, but I am not sure if I want to go that shinny... I have also had good results with Rust-Oleum Silver, but it's the "High-Performance Enamel" version and it really goes on thick so you have to be careful. I am also considering Alcald Polished Aluminum but I have never used Tamiya Gloss Aluminum. I may need to order some of that and test it out. The metal finish on that N1 is spot on.

I just updated the base last night for my Slave 1, here is the Rust-Oleum Silver along the front of the base:

 

[Analyzer]

Looking forward to what you come up with. I have had good luck with Rust-Oleum Metallic Finish Chrome, but I am not sure if I want to go that shinny... I have also had good results with Rust-Oleum Silver, but it's the "High-Performance Enamel" version and it really goes on thick so you have to be careful. I am also considering Alcald Polished Aluminum but I have never used Tamiya Gloss Aluminum. I may need to order some of that and test it out. The metal finish on that N1 is spot on.

The N1 is the Spaztik Chome. It is a little more reflective than the Tamiya Aluminum

 

[Jimw100]

Awesome, thanks for all this info. I don’t think I can get spazstix chrome so I’ll have a look at the Tamiya and rustoleum. The only Tamiya metallic I have tried before was dark grey metallic and it looked pretty bad, so I’m pleased to hear that their other ones are better.