What’s on Your Workbench? (Star Wars items only)

Real Parts DLT-19. I got a stunning deal on an MG34 (inert) while on vacation a month ago. I initially walked away from it, but then realized I had to have it. Been busy ordering a few authentic parts to get it in accurate shape. The receiver is solid steel so the whole thing weighs a ton and half. Good thing I'm not a trooper. Have an order for T track in, got a Michell disc from eethan (thank you sir), and am going to fashion the ejection port box out of scrap sheet metal. I also ordered a replacement wood stock to paint as I dont want to paint the original, it actually has the German Federal Eagle stamped on it. I may follow some of the examples I've seen here and get it laser engraved with an imperial symbol and Stormtrooper ID. Very excited to finish this and hang it in my space. Now I kind of want to follow up with a Death Trooper variant made from a Denix repro.

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Real Parts DLT-19. I got a stunning deal on an MG34 (inert) while on vacation a month ago. I initially walked away from it, but then realized I had to have it. Been busy ordering a few authentic parts to get it in accurate shape. The receiver is solid steel so the whole thing weighs a ton and half. Good thing I'm not a trooper. Have an order for T track in, got a Michell disc from eethan (thank you sir), and am going to fashion the ejection port box out of scrap sheet metal. I also ordered a replacement wood stock to paint as I dont want to paint the original, it actually has the German Federal Eagle stamped on it. I may follow some of the examples I've seen here and get it laser engraved with an imperial symbol and Stormtrooper ID. Very excited to finish this and hang it in my space. Now I kind of want to follow up with a Death Trooper variant made from a Denix repro.

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pretty awesome find and prop!
 
Real Parts DLT-19. I got a stunning deal on an MG34 (inert) while on vacation a month ago. I initially walked away from it, but then realized I had to have it. Been busy ordering a few authentic parts to get it in accurate shape. The receiver is solid steel so the whole thing weighs a ton and half. Good thing I'm not a trooper. Have an order for T track in, got a Michell disc from eethan (thank you sir), and am going to fashion the ejection port box out of scrap sheet metal. I also ordered a replacement wood stock to paint as I dont want to paint the original, it actually has the German Federal Eagle stamped on it. I may follow some of the examples I've seen here and get it laser engraved with an imperial symbol and Stormtrooper ID. Very excited to finish this and hang it in my space. Now I kind of want to follow up with a Death Trooper variant made from a Denix repro.

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Oh my lord!
 
Wasn't satisfied with any of the self-blinking LEDs I'd tried, so I'm making a self-contained Blinky board for Luke control boxes based around an ATTiny85 Arduino chip. It's a little better than a traditional 555 timer because it's programmable and requires a minimum of additional components. Awaiting some resistors so I can wire it up on a perfboard. The push button is pin-to-ground, so debating wiring it the reveal board itself like the original instead of a button.

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Edited: definitely not my best work, but at least the prototype is done.
 

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Finally finished my Rylo Luke refresh. The chamber I based on the old visual dictionary cutaway after spending a long time looking for a crystal that resembled the crystal from the new comics where Luke gets it. For the control box I created a final couple of blinking circuits, settling on the SMD variant, and added a 785 board. Used a B since it's not a cave reveal. I was lucky enough to add a little actual production-used DS2 brass to the board. The two magnets on the circuit chassis are enough to keep the board locked into place. The lights are a gimmick, but it was an excuse to learn how to design a circuit board and assemble SMD components.

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Finally finished my Rylo Luke refresh. The chamber I based on the old visual dictionary cutaway after spending a long time looking for a crystal that resembled the crystal from the new comics where Luke gets it. For the control box I created a final couple of blinking circuits, settling on the SMD variant, and added a 785 board. Used a B since it's not a cave reveal. I was lucky enough to add a little actual production-used DS2 brass to the board. The two magnets on the circuit chassis are enough to keep the board locked into place. The lights are a gimmick, but it was an excuse to learn how to design a circuit board and assemble SMD components.

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I F’n LOVE THIS!!!!!
 
Finally finished my Rylo Luke refresh. The chamber I based on the old visual dictionary cutaway after spending a long time looking for a crystal that resembled the crystal from the new comics where Luke gets it. For the control box I created a final couple of blinking circuits, settling on the SMD variant, and added a 785 board. Used a B since it's not a cave reveal. I was lucky enough to add a little actual production-used DS2 brass to the board. The two magnets on the circuit chassis are enough to keep the board locked into place. The lights are a gimmick, but it was an excuse to learn how to design a circuit board and assemble SMD components.

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You are a damn artist
 
Wasn't satisfied with any of the self-blinking LEDs I'd tried, so I'm making a self-contained Blinky board for Luke control boxes based around an ATTiny85 Arduino chip. It's a little better than a traditional 555 timer because it's programmable and requires a minimum of additional components. Awaiting some resistors so I can wire it up on a perfboard. The push button is pin-to-ground, so debating wiring it the reveal board itself like the original instead of a button.

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Edited: definitely not my best work, but at least the prototype is done.
Can you explain a little bit more on how it's programmable? This seems like it might be exactly what ive been looking for but my electronics skills are extremely basic
 
Sure - it's just an Arduino chip without all the extra board around it - you have to program it yourself, and it doesn't have a boot loader chip like a full ard board, so you have to use a USB plugin board that has one. Sparkfun makes one, the PGM-11801, that digi-key and others sell. The cheap ones off Amazon/ebay don't actually have a bootloader chip, they're just usb passthrough so you can't program with them. Put it in the usb board, program it as you would any other Arduino board in the Arduino IDE, and away you go. There are only a few GPIO pins, it only has 512 bytes of memory, and it's too slow to do a bunch of stuff at once - but it's useful for dedicated electronics builds like this or a midi interface. There are larger ATTiny boards too, if you want more than 8 pins.
 
Finally finished my Rylo Luke refresh. The chamber I based on the old visual dictionary cutaway after spending a long time looking for a crystal that resembled the crystal from the new comics where Luke gets it. For the control box I created a final couple of blinking circuits, settling on the SMD variant, and added a 785 board. Used a B since it's not a cave reveal. I was lucky enough to add a little actual production-used DS2 brass to the board. The two magnets on the circuit chassis are enough to keep the board locked into place. The lights are a gimmick, but it was an excuse to learn how to design a circuit board and assemble SMD components.

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I said it before and I’ll say it again.. this is my favorite Rylo..
 
I just recently picked up a 785 (a) board cheap enough to make it worth swapping out the 785 (b). Just need time to cut up the new board and add the brass.
 
I started on a pair of Obi Wan ANH Lightsaber Hilts (one Chronicles version and one Tunisia version) over this past weekend.

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This afternoon, I had some spare time to run down to my basement and complete additional weathering, chemical coloring, and adaptations to the Balance Pipe, windvane, and grenade (including adding the cube cuts to the top row near the windvane) the of the Tunisia hilt…

Before…

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After…

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