TOS phaser project

tobor

Active Member
I’ve had a John Long phaser kit for a while now, and have been looking for an accurate P2 to go with it.
Luckily, I’ve managed to get a Master Replicas P2 body. I think the combination of these should make a very nice phaser.
Ideally, I would love to get some original Master Replica parts for the P2, but I think this is unlikely.
The P1 is not a bad fit, but was a little long. I reduced its length by about 3mm.
I’ve decided not to modify the P2 body in any way, and I’m being very careful not to scratch the paint. Basically, there’s no way I can achieve a paint job as good as it already has. Also, If I use all the existing mounts, then I could replace any parts I use with original ones if they become available.
I got a set of metal parts from federationphaser.tk. These were made for the art asylum phaser, so they had to be modified.
So far I’ve modified the Nozzle, rear fins, side turn knob and trigger. The side turn knob was too small, so I replaced the outer ring with a thicker steel one. The rear fins were cut to fit, and I think they look better than the original MR ones.
I’m not sure what I’m going to use for the handle. I’ve cut off an AA handle, but it’s not that accurate. It may be easier to make one from scratch than to modify this.
I’ll keep this thread updated with my progress. The John Long kit looks like it will be a bit of a challenge.
I have a question. On the original phasers, what connector was used to hold the handle to the main body? I know it is some sort of electrical connector but I’ve never seen one here in the UK.
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Tobor very cool project! Can't wait to see how it comes out. I think they were Hubbell plugs. The male plug that I used on one of my phasers was part# HBL7465V and the female plug was part# HBL7468.
 
Interesting combination of parts, this will be cool to watch. Sporak may be able to set you up with a nice resin handle.

And search ebay for the Hubbel plugs, you can get them pretty cheap there.
 
Or use a Rylo Alumium handle. He doesnt make them anymore but I have an extra for sale if youre interested (PM me). Its hollow aluminum with a removeable base plate.
 
I’ve made some progress on the John Long phaser.
Because I reduced its length by sanding the joint on the bottom shells, they weren’t quite flush when I put them back together. This meant I had to sand the sides of the shells to get them flush again. I also re-shaped the bottom of the P1 to better fit the profile of the P2. The shells aren’t that thick to start with, and were getting very thin in some places. Using fibre glass tissue and resin, I built up another layer on the bottom shells.
The shells have been cleaned up and primed, and the side rails added.
I’ve also made the aspirator grill and test fitted it.

That’s it for now.
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The Rylo aluminium handle arrived, and it’s really nice (thanks Onigiri).
I’ve decided not to use a Hubbell connector. It would be quite difficult to make it fit the aluminium handle, and I would probably have to modify the main body as well.
Instead, I’ve gone for a very simple method. I will probably epoxy the retaining nut in position so the handle can be unscrewed without taking the body apart.
If I install electronics, I’ll use button cells in the main body. I’m thinking of using the hole where the speaker should be as an access hatch.
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Excellent project! With a more correctly shaped Phaser 1 the MR doesn't have quite the "Frankenstein forehead" it did with the P1 that it came with.
 
Coming along great, the handle seems to fit like it was made for it. That handle would require a lot of milling to accept the twist plug, but the P2 should be fine. The sides of the Hubbell socket have to be sanded flat, then epoxied into the phaser body.
 
Excellent project! With a more correctly shaped Phaser 1 the MR doesn't have quite the "Frankenstein forehead" it did with the P1 that it came with.

That, and the rear fins being shaped to match the recess for them.

Super work! I can't wait to see it finished up and painted! :)
 
The phaser is now basically finished. I managed to take a bit of a short cut with the P2.
I recently got a complete Master Replicas P2 body, handle and display case on ebay. The P2 body had some paint chips on one side. I replaced the chipped body half with one from body I already had. I also replaced the ten turn knob. The one on the MR phaser looked worn. Of course I replaced the rear fins with the ones I modified. The P1 is finished apart from painting the brass thumb wheel. I should have painted it before I put the phaser together. I actually quite like it as it is, but I will probably end up painting it.
I had to take out the soft plastic bit that held the front of the P1 in place, as the John Long P1 is wider at the front than the original MR one. To stop the P1 rattling around I used some soft foam. This held it in place really well. I put a bit of thin black plastic up against the acrylic window so you couldn’t see the foam.
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Here are some comparison pictures with a standard MR phaser.
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The other MR body and aluminium handle etc, will be made into a black and white phaser. I’ll post the progress in this thread. I’ve already replaced the ten turn knob with the simpler aluminium one I got from federationphaser.tk.
So now I’m on the lookout for another accurate P1, either a John long kit or something similar.
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Looks great! I haven't seen an MR modded to a b&w before, that will be cool :cool Will you be using another Jlong P1 for that one too?
 
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